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popeye2sea

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Everything posted by popeye2sea

  1. popeye2sea
    Navigating along a particular latitude was not that hard. All you needed was to keep the sun at the same declination. You could measure the angle with a quadrant, octant, or sextant. That is one of the reasons we have trade routes. In the North Atlantic, for example, you would sail south from Europe until you picked up the right latitude to catch the westerly trade winds then turn west and cross the Atlantic till you made landfall in South America or the Caribbean. To head back East, the return route was to sail North till you pick up the proper latitude to catch the easterly trade winds, turn East and sail till landfall in Europe. Figuring out how far East or West you were along that latitude, in other words calculating longitude, was a more difficult beastie. For that you needed accurate time keeping. Regards, Henry
  2. popeye2sea
    Welcome, Jakub. Regards, Henry
  3. popeye2sea
    Kuba, What I gave you was a general rule of thumb for ship rigged vessels of that era. Personally, I think that a 1.4 or 1.5mm rope will probably look just fine. But if you wish to go a bit larger, have at it. Whatever you feel looks good to your eye is what is important. BTW, I'm guessing that Kuba is not your real name. We are a fairly friendly bunch here on MSW. We like real names (no pressure). Regards, Henry
  4. popeye2sea
    The Main Stay circumference should be half of the greatest diameter of the Main mast. In order to get the diameter of the main: Thickest part of main mast is at deck level. Diameter equals one inch for every 3 feet of mast length. Main mast length is approx. 2.5 times the beam of the vessel So, for example, vessel has 30 foot beam Main mast length 30 x 2.5= 75 feet Main mast diameter 75 / 3 = 25 inches Main stay circumference 25 / 2 = 12.5 inches Main stay diameter 12.5 / 3.14 = 3.98 inches At 1:36 scale a 4 inch diameter rope will be 0.11 inches or 2.8 mm Hope that helps. Regards,
  5. popeye2sea
    I actually have not painted the inside of mine yet beyond the bit of gold detail that is on the reverse of the medallion. I will be painting them blue to match the outside. The medallion does not actually attach to the bowsprit. In fact these head rails do not sit very well into position at all and there is very little to attach them to. I may even have to pare away some of the round house for the seats of ease in order to make them fit. And I am pretty sure that I have to remake my forward most headrail support timber; it is not long enough to reach the inside of the head rails. All of this adjusting and fiddling is the reason for not painting the inboard side yet. I am thinking that I may also make some small pockets on the inside surface to take the ends of the support timbers in order to make a stronger joint with more glue surface area. Or, I may make small pins to join them. There seems to be a lot of bending stress to get the head rails into place. Regards, Henry
  6. popeye2sea
    Ah, but Constitution is only 30 years younger than Victory. Her original wood will be there for many years to come. Regards, Henry
  7. popeye2sea
    I think red was the cheapest color available. Also the reason most barns in New England are painted red. Regards, Henry
  8. popeye2sea
    USS Constitution still has about 12% of her original wood. Doesn't fit the conundrum. Regards, Henry
  9. popeye2sea
    You are correct. The main halliard knight has the same interference problems. But for the same reasons that Bill mentioned in his post above, I did not move my main halliard knight. Making the collar of the mizzen stay longer around the mast to pass on either side of the halliard will alleviate this problem. The reason I chose to make the change for the fore knight is because the main stay is much more complicated and of much heavier construction than the mizzen stay. Regards. Henry
  10. popeye2sea
    A Tipple of moonshiners. There, I just made one up.😉 Regards, Henry
  11. popeye2sea
    Good job with the re-positioned halliard knight. Regards, Henry
  12. popeye2sea
    Were they talking about the water line or the sheer? Regards, Henry
  13. popeye2sea
    That is the piece. There is also another 2 parts that will come in handy here. One is shaped like a cylinder, the other is a ring. You use them to push the "petals" up evenly so that the tops of the crown can be fixed properly around the base of the lantern. Mine were labelled "x" and "y" and molded in clear plastic. Regards, Henry
  14. popeye2sea
    After having sailed for 24 years in the Navy, one thing I can definitely tell you is that anything that can break loose WILL break loose. I seriously doubt that cannon shot was not secured in some way. Side note: I was always under the impression that like the modern Navy, the ammo stored near the guns is only ready service ammo. Would the cannon balls not be struck below into the shot lockers when not readied for immediate use? Regards, Henry
  15. popeye2sea
    Offer up the quarter gallery to the hull. Lightly run your x-acto blade along the edge to be scraped to make a mark. Scrape along the inside of the line to expose the bare plastic. Regards, Henry
  16. popeye2sea
    Yes, I created floors. It was a bit tricky fitting them. There was a lot of test fitting and trimming required to keep the floors from pushing the quarter galleries out away from the hull. Regards,
  17. popeye2sea
    My starboard side ports are all closed. For the port side gun ports I intend to add hinges to attach the lids that I purchased from Syren. I have not tried them yet. Debating whether to add fleurs-de-lys. My corbels were numbered 150 (8 shorter) and 151 (4 longer). The four longer corbels were positioned 2 under the center of the 2nd battery balcony and 2 under the center of the 3rd battery balcony. The eight shorter ones went to either side of both balconies. Regards, Henry
  18. popeye2sea
    Bill, If you ever need spare parts, I have almost an entire second kit worth. Regards, Henry
  19. popeye2sea
    Just a minor point to add to what Peter said above. When an anchor cable is said to be belayed to the riding bitts, it is not at all similar to belaying a normal line to, say, a cleat. Anchor cables are far too thick for a normal belay. The cable would at most have taken a single turn around the bitts before being led below. The riding bitt, therefore, serves to provide some much needed friction in order to hold the cable. In fact, the cable would almost certainly be constantly monitored and veered or slacked as necessary. The actual securing of the cable was by means of stoppers. Regards, Henry
  20. popeye2sea
    Yes, that is correct. In between the capstan and the hawse hole the cable would be passed around the cable bitts. Sometimes there were stoppers on ring bolts attached to the bitts also. Regards, Henry
  21. popeye2sea
    Does it need to be a Presidential Eagle? Can you use a different representation like a Federal Eagle? Regards, Henry
  22. popeye2sea
    I doubt that the anchor cable was tied off anywhere in board. The bulk of the cable would be below deck coiled on the cable tier. Stoppers would be employed on the deck to check the movement of the cable. The stoppers are what would be eye spliced to ring bolts in the deck with their ends hitched around the anchor cable to hold it fast. Perhaps the bitter end of the cable was made fast to a ring somewhere in the cable tier but, this is just a last ditch measure to try to prevent the complete loss of a cable overboard. It was never used to hold fast the cable in regular use. Regards, Henry
  23. popeye2sea
    These would make a convenient attachment point to hook mast tackles into. Regards, Henry
  24. popeye2sea
    Well, they would properly be towed astern during battle or be used to communicate between other ships in the battle line. So, since I am not making a diorama, then I will just eliminate them completely. Truthfully, I am not pleased with the way they look and I do not want to spend the additional effort to correct them as I am with the rest of the ship. This build has already taken 40 years to get to it's current state. Regards, Henry
  25. popeye2sea
    Bill, I am omitting the spare wood stock from my kit. I am also debating whether to use the boats as they do not fit in with my chosen display of being rigged for battle. Regards, Henry

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