popeye2sea

The sheets pass through the side to come inboard for handling. On some ships the "block" that they pass through is no more than a closed chock or hole through the side. In this case they are specifying a rotating sheave let into the hole. Regards,

google parbuckle for a quick how to. Regards, Henry

BTW, thought you might want to know that the shaded striping effect on the shield is not a thing either. They would have been solid stripes with distinct edges. The proper blazon would be " Bendy of eight, Gules ands Or". That translates to eight diagonal stripes, alternating red and gold. The two lions rampant (describes how the lions are standing), Or (gold) in chief (the uppermost part of the shield) are actually covering the upper stripes. Think of it as a field of stripes painted on a shield with decorations (they are called charges) placed or painted on top. Regards, Henry

On the box art the inner lining of the cape is showing the traditional heraldic depiction of "vair", which is squirrel or weasel fur. The alternating dark and light bell figures represent the darker upper fur and the lighter underbelly fur of the animal that were stitched together alternately to form the garment. That could give you some idea as to the color of the cloak lining. Vair was frequently used for the inner linings of the cloaks of the nobility. The other heraldic fur was ermine, considered to be a regal fur used in the crowns and robes of royals. Regards, Henry

To properly belay a line to a pin the first turn is around the lower part of the pin and then straight up around the top part. In other words, no cross over. The next turn is to cross the line over itself around the lower part of the pin and then the last turn is to throw a half hitch over the top. You end up with 2 thicknesses of line over both the top and bottom parts of the pin. That will provide enough friction to hold any load. As a practical matter, there would not be that large of a variation between the diameters of lines coming down to pins. Anything much bigger than an inch in diameter would probably be belayed to a kevel, knight head, or large cleat. One size of pin throughout the whole vessel would be entirely plausible and practical. Regards, Henry

I think the problem is that your rigging and belaying plan has led you astray. There were, more than likely, belaying pins or a fife rail for all of those lines. Those bitts are primarily for the anchor cable. There may have been belaying pins set in between the uprights of the bitts. Regards, Henry

Building on what Pat just said, I would start with the rearmost shroud on each side. With the greatest angle to the mast it has the most influence on the position of the mast. Then do the foremost, followed by the middle. You just have to make sure that all the shroud pairs are laying fair at the masthead. It will be hard to readjust after the rear shrouds are set up since they are on top of all the others. Regards, Henry

These are called mast tackle pendants. They are fitted first over the masthead because they are initially used to heave taut the shrouds when setting up the deadeye laniards. Thereafter, they are employed using heavy tackles to hoist gear and cargo aboard the ship. Regards, Henry

Honestly, I don't think they would for several reasons. For example: Just one more thing to get blown out in a storm. The helmsman needs to be able to look up at the sails to make sure they are still drawing properly and not luffing. They were not concerned at all with creature comforts. No ship I ever served in, ever rigged a tarpaulin rain cover when underway. That is only rigged in port to give cover and shade to visiting landlubbers or dignitaries. Or when holding special events on board. Regards, Henry

Hello Pak75, I can not speak to question one, but for the second, the tackles were left hooked on to the gun carriage. They acted as sort of a recoil brake as the cannon was fired. When the gun was run out to the in-battery position for firing, the tackle falls were flaked down on the deck, not coiled, so that they would run clear when the gun fired. Regards, Henry BTW, Do you have a name for us to use? We are a friendly bunch here.

Mostly by tradition, the mizzen mast tackles are referred to as burton tackles. Generally, a burton tackle is a lighter tackle. Maybe that is why the mast tackle on the mizzen is referred to that way. Regards,

Only the largest of vessels were fitted with four capstans.

Manpower only. No capstan. Those are five part tackles and there are two on each boat. So the force needed for each hauling part is something like 200 pounds. Not difficult for a few sailors on each tackle. Regards, Henry

In order to set up a yard and stay hoisting rig (which is what that lifting rig is called) you need two separate hauling parts. One tackle is rigged over the main hatch with the tackle attached to the main stay. The other tackle is a yard tackle suspended from the lower yard arm. The lower blocks for both tackles come together and are hooked into the sling holding the load. In order to launch a boat. Step 1. Hoist away on the stay tackle, which is directly over the load, so that the load is high enough to clear the side bulwarks. The yard tackle holds fast or takes up slack. The stay tackle bears the load. Step 2. Haul the load outboard by heaving on the yard tackle. The stay tackle is eased as needed. Both tackles bear the load. Step 3. Once the load is directly beneath the yard tackle outboard of the ship, lower away on the yard tackle. Ease the stay tackle as needed. The stay tackle bears the load until the boat is in the water. The process is reversed for getting cargo into the ship. Regards, Henry P.S. The actual rig is slightly more complicated because you need relieving lifts and rolling tackles on the yard to help it bear the weight of the load. P.P.S I took a ship loading operations course for the US Navy Military Sealift Command. I found the yard and stay rig to be the most fun to rig and operate. The gantry crane with a container spreader being a close second. Regards, Henry

The 10/0 beads should be good to use. I used them for my main and fore yards, They may even be a bit too large. I think they may end up being too large for the upper yards. I will be looking for some 13/0 or so for those later. I would not use anything larger than 10/0. Regards, Henry

I believe rope was sold by the fathom. Cables were made in lengths of 100 fathoms and different rope sizes were made to a certain weight standard. For instance 100 fathoms of 14 inch cable was to weigh 41 cwt. Cablets were made in 120 fathom lengths, and Hawsers were made in 130 fathom lengths. 130 fathoms of 4 inch hawser weighed 5 cwt. Information is from Steels elements of rope making. Regards, Henry

The standing part of the runner could either have an eye spliced in the end and the eye seized to ringbolt B, or there could be an eye spliced with a hook and hooked to the ringbolt. I am fairly certain that the runner would not be spliced directly through the ringbolt. The same can be said about the lower tackle block at ringbolt A. Except that is more likely to have a hook spliced into a becket on the block. Most rigging is set up so that removing the line does not entail cutting the rope itself so to facilitate using the tackle in a new location without the hassle of re-splicing the line or having to re-rig an entire line because it is now too short. It is far more efficient to just cut a seizing to remove or shift the tackle. Regards, Henry

Perhaps you could ask the moderators to move your build log to the correct sub-forum: Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750. Regards, Henry

On Constitution, the messenger runs from the capstan forward to a viol block mounted horizontally at the inside of the stem between the hawse holes on the gun deck. There are vertical rollers placed outboard of the various stanchions that the messenger may foul on in passing. The messenger is nipped to the anchor cable. As the cable comes aboard the water drips into and is captured in the manger. The cable passes below by means of a cutout in the fore corner of the main hatch grating where it is coiled two decks below on the cable tier in the orlop/hold. To answer your specific question, the main capstan, viol, hawse holes, messenger, and anchor cables are all on the gun deck. The cable tier is two decks below, accessible from the main hatch Regards, Henry

It is, indeed sir, a pleasure to make your acquaintance. You are most welcome here. Best of luck in finding someone to take on your estimable commission. I remain, sir, your most obedient and humble servant. Henry

A lot of modelers go the extra effort to approximate the correct size and style of blocks. Although there are far too many, in reality, to ever model correctly. Many modelers I see on MSW toss out the kit blocks in favor of making or purchasing more convincingly real versions. Regards, Henry

I think I read somewhere that the diameter of the lanyard for deadeyes and hearts is 1/2 (or slightly less) than the diameter of the stay or shroud. Regards, Henry

The rational for a fully served shroud is to reduce chafe from the sails and associated rigging when the yards are braced around. So, if the mast that you are rigging only has a fore and aft sail, then I do not believe a fully served forward shroud is warranted. Regards, Henry

That was really nicely done. Thanks for posting. Henry

Oh, I agree with you there. Mine is just too comfortable someti........zzzzzzz.