Blue Ensign

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

Cheers Guys,
These are the completion photo's, before Pegasus  is enclosed in her case, which is still wip.
firstly the detail shots:













 
The Rigging shots

 





 
With the Longboat, which will be placed within the case, but not on the temporary stand as shown below.



 
Overall shots





 
B.E.
 

To quote one of the great polo players:  It just might be done.
 
Go for it!

Great work there BE.  That gap looks awfully narrow to squeeze two planks into but it's very hard to tell with all the curves and the 2D photos.  I'm sure you have it in hand, the planks really seem to distort the visual perception of the hull shape.

Looking very good B.E. It does seem that you will have an interesting time fitting those last two strakes. I have no doubt that you will do it perfectly.
 
Bob

Thanks Chuck, I have taken your advice, and thanks for the very useful 'Barge' pdf.
So the top sheer planks are replaced.

7846
Full size strips, dry heat curved after wetting to align with the bulkhead tops. This is quite a gentle curve from around the mid point with a slightly more upward sweep aft from the centre.

7851
This time I have shaped a balsa block to temporarily protect the plank extensions for the decorative transom.
That's the easy bit!
The second plank below the sheer plank I have also fitted untapered, but have used the water/dry heat method to create the 'S' shape as shown below.

7822
This time I started the curve much further back in a longer length of strip.

7826
The downward curve is quite severe at the bow.

7859
So Grommit what d'ye think of it so far. hmmn not too impressed eh.
 
Time for a break I think and a trip down to Dorsetshire.
 
B.E.

Hi Bob, I'm not a fan of those brass etched letters so beloved of kit  manufacturers sometimes because the lettering is too modern and always because  the names were painted on  and not blocked which is the appearance you get no matter how thin the etch is. I used Letraset on my Pegasus build
.
The rules governing the names on sterns were by order issued in 1771; that ships should have their names painted on the second counter, in letters a foot high, and be enclosed in a compartment.
 
The order was amended in 1772 and names were; to be painted without a compartment in letters as large as the counter would permit, this was the fashion at the time of Trafalgar.
 
Looking at your 5mm letters they don't strike me as being 'odd' but the 8mm ones are probably truer to scale, and better meet the 1772 rule.
 
The last two kits I have made had etched  letters which under the kit instructions were to be painted white, personally I found this too stark at scale, and gold/ochre has a more period feel. I also tried vinyl stick on letters which were available in larger sizes, but didn't like the effect.
 
I understand some modellers create their own transfers on their computers using special paper and fonts to suit, but I'm not sure of the procedure.
 
There are also companies out there who will produce dry rub lettering to suit, but I've no experience of them.
 
Vanguard is coming along very nicely.
 
B.E.

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

The Garboard planks are now fitted.

8515

8516
For these I used straight strip shaped by reference to how Chuck's  build appeared to look in his photo's with the end just extending beyond the scarf joint in the keel.
This has to be done in conjunction with the one above it, before it can be glued into place.

8513
Working the strake above the Garboard.
 
A fair bit of fiddling about here.

8518
There is a severe curve at the bow end to go around the Garboard and fit into the rabbet at the stem.
This was formed from around the centre of a much longer piece of strip, to get the necessary curve.

8526
Once I was happy the two planks would match, the Garboard was glued into place.

8533
Port side  bottom strakes fitted. The second strake is also full size without any tapering.
I think I've achieved the objective of keeping the second plank from creeping upwards at the stem.

8534

8529
Only wet and dry heat was used to  form the shapes.

8532
The stern section of the strakes also untapered was problem free in fitting.

8537
 I now need to work out the required tapers for the intervening planks. I will then work from both top and bottom.
 
B.E.

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Oh dear it seems like one step forward and three steps back with this build.
Having fitted four strakes each side along the bottom, something didn't look right, there was a creeping mismatch at the fore end between Port and Starboard so the strakes on the starboard side including the garboard plank were taken off and re-done.

8873
Balance restored.
Using pva allows this re-work without too much effort and importantly without damaging the frames. A slight wetting and easing with a scalpel blade and off they pop. Certainly would not have been so easy had I used c.a.
 
The first four strakes from the top sheerline are untapered.

8872
...but the fifth required a degree of taper both forward and aft to allow for the fit of the remaining  strakes. There was also edge bending required.

8874

8870

8879
Something amiss Gromit?
 

8880
What's that you say Gromit, is there enough room for two remaining strakes?
We'll see Gromit, we'll see.
One thing I wish I had done with this build at the outset was to replace the Lime/Basswood keel and stem with Boxwood. It really is a poor wood for this purpose where clean and sharp edges  are desirable.
It will take careful sanding to remove the scuffs and marks, followed by application of sanding sealer to preserve the surface.
Am I happy with progress thus far, the jury is still out on that one, finding this a very tricky build; I'll see how I feel once the planking and a sanding finish has been applied.
 
B.E.
 
 

Model Shipways must be making a good return on this package; many Pinnace models being done. I too just started one. I have the shear strake and plank below as well as the garboard and one above installed. (both port and starboard). I've had some of the same issues as Blue Ensign describes. i suppose we are all having them. I've been lucky so far; brute strength and awkwardness seems to have worked for me for these first eight planks. I haven't had to do any fancy trimming; but did do some extreme bending and twisting. But I can see that i will have to get  a bit more creative for the remaining planks. Makes one wonder if it might be the better part of valor to leave the hull planking open ala Chuck's admiral's barge; nah, that would be cheating on the pinnace.  :-)
 
I'm trying to decide whether or not to start a build  log here; there are so many already on MSW, another may be redundant. At any rate i'm off for ten day cruise of the Alaskan inner passage. So will decide when i get back.
Walt

Lots of great tips and info being shared here, thanks all....

Tom, this is a link to the online version of Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, 1794,
 
http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/
 
Hope you find it useful.
 
B.E.

Nice sharp work on the Gangboards and brackets Martin, not too sure about a support post for the Gangway,  - aesthetics over practicality, hmmn, I'll await developments.
I believe I got around the problem by having one bracket that supported both the Gangway end and the gangplanks end that finished beneath it.
I wouldn't sweat it tho' once everything else is in place, you'll be hard placed to see anything of the fine detail.
B.E.
 
 
 

I promised that I would post a picture of the guns when I got them rigged.  I had thought I would have them all done by Sunday, but they took a bit longer.  I tried finishing off the rigging of the first two while leaving the carriages un-cemented, as Peter suggested.  What I found is that the gun would move as I tried setting the eye & ring bolts in the bulwark, and pull the bolts out (blame my unsteady hands).  That served as more evidence that I saved many lives when I decided not to be a surgeon. 
 
So, here they are: 
 

 
I've started on the gangboards, simply planking the kit-supplied thin plywood:
 

 
These will need some kind of molding along the edges to finish them off (and to conceal the plywood base).  You can also see that the wider end is lacking the tab that would fit under the quartedeck beam.  I'm following BE's lead here in cutting the tabs off in order to abutt the gang boards a bit higher.  The purpose is to keep the forward ends a bit above the covering board in the waist, to allow the gangway to sit under the gang board.
 
One question I've asked myself involves the support of the gangboards.  FFM shows a knee -- either metal or wood.  These knees would be right up against the first knees of the gangways.  I am thinking of departing from that structural arrangement and supporting the forward inboard corner with a post.  Logically it would be an interference for the gun crew;  but in my mind's eye a post seems more elegant.  And it would follow the line created by the newel post above.
 
The knees for the gang ways will go in, however.  I've cut and shaped all eight of those.  Here is a sample of three:
 

 
The tops are angled in order to accommodate the shape of the bulwark.
 
I do wonder if I should perhaps hold off on the gangboards until I've taken care of the pumps and other details.  Hmm, I'm not sure.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Hi Michael, I'm not referring to Footropes or horses as slung below the yards, but the complicated crowsfeet arrangements fitted to many  stays on ships of the 17th century. The crowsfeet that are fitted to the tops of 18th century ships were the last remaining vestige of the use of crowsfeet which died out towards the start of the 19th century.
 
The sort of attachments shown in your last photo above would I believe be classed as crowsfeet, but a prime example of their use in 17c ships would be the Spritsail Topmast backstays, certainly on English and Dutch ships, where very fancy set ups were the order of the day.
 
The Martnets (or Leechlines) were also of a similar form, and may benefit from some stiffening assistance to get them to look right.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.