Blue Ensign

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Simply beautiful Håkan,
 
Glad to read that you are feeling better.
 
B.E.
 

Post One Hundred and thirteen
 
Headworks (Part Three)
One of the trickiest parts to get right is the Cathead supporter and I did struggle to get the necessary curve to fay into the Ekeing rail even with Chris’s unique, as far as I know, jig which goes a long way towards resolving the problem of the complex curves involved.  
 
Ideally the top of the supporter should be square and centred beneath the Cathead, and curve down to follow exactly the curve of the Ekeing rail.
My initial attempts resulted in a mismatch between the two. The problem could be addressed to some extent by bevelling the top of the supporter but there was still an obvious  misalignment.
 
I scrapped my first attempts and I re-made the supports using a lamination of three pieces of 1mm stuff.
Even so it took a couple of re- shapings in the jig to get a result that just about passed muster.
 

2890
The Cathead supporter/ekeing rail arrangement on the kit is a simplification.
The Supporter in reality, was a separate piece to the ekeing rail and should be fastened close to the hull, with the ekeing fayed into its lower end.

2897
Once fitted, even tho’ superficially it may look ok, blind man on a galloping horse comes to mind, I was not happy with the result.
 
The main issue is that the supporter knee is glued to the Ekeing rather than the hull, resulting in a gap between hull and rail where the Ekeing passes over the upper wale and waist rails, which throw it away from the hull.
 
The manual only indicates removing a small section of rail directly beneath the cathead, and the result is that the supporter is then obviously attached to the rail rather than the hull and not attached to the hull at all at the lower extreme.
 
This made little sense and irritated my eye each time I looked at it.

2900
I needed a re-think, so all my work of the past few days was undone.

2902
Fortunately, the supporter and rail came away without breakage.
 
A contributing factor is that the Ekeing runs atop and almost parallel with the Waist rail rather than cutting it at a more acute angle to run below it as indicated on the plans (both kit and official)
 
My aim is to get the supporter to look as if it is fastened directly to the hull, and to achieve this it is necessary to fine down the waist rail to allow the supporter to sit flush with the hull. The aft side of the supporter is also built up to compensate for the gap between Upper rails and Waist rails.

1584a
This modification is still a bit of a fudge but I can now live with it.

2914

1588b

2918
There’s a lot of work left to do on the finish, and getting clean lines on the mouldings is also proving a challenge.
 
I need to wait for better light for detail painting, the light levels in the UK are very poor at present.
 
The Bow saga goes on…..
 
B.E.
07/12/2023
 
 

Post One Hundred and Ten
 
Headworks (Part One)
Along with the stern this is a critical area of a build, that can make or mar a model.
Chris has designed some of the best head work set-ups but great care is needed in assembly.
Assembly is covered over several separate sections in the blurb but I prefer to have all the parts to hand so I can check and dry fit before I commit to glue.
 
The business starts with attaching the Head timbers to the Gammoning knee which will ultimately fit atop the knee proper.

2808
The Head timbers are made of mdf and look as if they will snap in half should you give them so much as a harsh look; perhaps that is why two sets are provided in the kit.
An excellent idea; on my build the spaniel assistant had one part before it hit the ground, and another went floppy so I had to discard it.
 
To allow the Gammoning knee to sit down on the knee proper I found careful sanding and filing was necessary to the knee and base of the head timbers.
 

2807
I tested each of the four head timbers individually, and then as a set to confirm the fit is good.
The largest of the Head timbers (aft) gave me the most trouble as it was initially too close to the hull and decorative mouldings that round the bow. I had to indulge in a little light tweaking to resolve the issue.
 
The Hair bracket comes next, a delicate shaped rail that runs from the Upper cheek to the head.

2813
Below this is the Trail board that contains the Gammoning slot.

2812
To assist location, it is useful to insert a piece of board thro’ the slot when fitting the hair bracket.
 
Finally in this section the Upper and lower cheeks are applied to the bow.

2814
On my build they took a bit of shaping on the aft side to conform to the hull.

2818
Fitting these is a tedious business, I fit the lower pair before the upper.

2819
Once glue is applied there is a frantic check before the glue dries to ensure that they look right from every angle.
There’s always that nagging doubt. 🤔

2822

2823
At this point I have modified the building board to allow better access to the Bow area.

2829
I will review my efforts in the cold light of tomorrow morning to see if my eye is still satisfied.
 
 As with Sphinx I will not be fitting the wash cants.
Aesthetically these baulks of timber spoil the line of the cheeks and wale and they don’t seem to feature on Navy Board style models which is good enough for me.
They are in any case quite tricky things to shape without them looking lumpy, and I’m happy to have a ‘get out of Jail free’ card to play.
 
B.E.
22/11/2023
 
 

Post One  hundred and nine
 
And more fettlin’
This seemed an opportune time to assemble the Catheads and open up the apertures.
Only the basic assembly at this stage, finishing will be done later.

2766

2769
The completed Catheads are 6mm square so a fair bit of filing is required to open up the bulwark location.
Flat and triangular needle files were used for the purpose.
The  triple  sheaves  are patterned  on the  catheads and require drilling thro’ if they are to be rigged.

2788
The line of the sheave is offset to counter the stive of the Cathead, so that the tackle hangs vertically.
A slight round to the faux sheaves improves the look.
 
Back to the stern
The decorative mouldings are now fitted around the stern and Qtr galleries.
The trick here is to ensure that the upper counter mouldings match up with those of the Qtr galleries and have a neat finish at the corners.
Failure to achieve this will certainly catch the eye and detract from the overall look of the model.
In working this area position of the model is everything to get the right viewing angle to secure the mouldings.

2772
For me raising the hull at the stern gives me the best approach.

2780
I start with the upper counter rail, followed by the corresponding Qtr gallery rail.

2774

2778
I thought about applying a mitre joint to the corners but opted for a straight butt joint which worked out ok once carefully sanded.
Atop the rails  a strip is added to create  a simple  profile.

2791

2793

2802
Fairly satisfied with the run of the rails, but for the present I’m moving onto the Headworks.
 
B.E.
19/11/2023
 

Post One Hundred and five.
 
Bulwark Spirketting
This is now added to the Quarterdeck and Poop decks, pre-painted before gluing into place.

2661
Painting on the model is made more difficult due to the tumblehome of the Topsides along the Qtr deck.

2668

2669
Quite a change to the look of the model once this is done, but with gunport fettlin’ and other work, some restoration will be inevitable as the build progresses.

2673
The decorative facia panels at the break of the decks are also added at this time.
These remain unpainted and are treated with w-o-p.
 
Toprope scuttles
Back in Post 99 I said that I have some reservations about the Top rope scuttles being represented by gratings.

0050
They are generally shown as closed boards, without framing, and with lifting rings attached, as on Victory (Above)

2664

2667
This seemed a good point to knock up a couple of closed scuttles to see how they look.

2670
Altho’ more historically correct, I’m not sure I prefer them to the supplied gratings from a purely aesthetical viewpoint.

2675
 
B.E.
08/11/2023
 
 

Post One Hundred and two
 
Foc’sle stuff cont’d.
 A day spent fitting small sections of planking to suit the cut-away plan. Each one requires tapering to suit. Not difficult but time consuming.

2627
The tricky part is the eight or so strakes that will require  joggling into the margin planks
 
As an update from my previous post I have found a contemporary model of a large Frigate (Diana) 1794 which indeed does show a hook at the Foc’sle.

 
As the razeed Indy plan also details this feature albeit at a slightly higher level, I grasped the nettle and removed those two uprights either side of the bowsprit.
Necessary  to fit a hook.
 
The bulwark spirketting was clamped into place and given the heat treatment.
I didn’t find it necessary to wet the wood.

2615
One potential issue is that the spirketting sits some 3mm above the outer bulwarks towards the fore end, including the top hole for the ring bolts.
I can’t imagine how this has come about, all the other reference points seem to be correct.
I resolved the issue by carefully shaving the bottom edge of the spirketting to bring things into line.

2623
With the spirketting glued into place, small additional pieces were required to be added, cut from matching fret.

2617
There is an untidy area where the topside planking meets the stem at the bow that could use a little fettlin’.
It is mostly hidden once the Bowsprit is in place, but that’s no reason not to sort it.
 

2618
A simple job to tidy up the plank ends and slot in a filler piece.

2621
A bridging piece is now fitted over the top of the Bowsprit opening. The capping rails will eventually cover this.
Still a lot of cleaning up to do but getting there.

I can now work the hook and finish off around the bowsprit area.

2625
 
This is the second hook I am working on, tricky little beggar to get a good fit, and I may well end up with a third.
 
B.E.
02/11/2023
 
 
 
 
 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred
 
QD planking cont’d
I next fit the Margin planks using 6mm x 1mm Box. This covers the rough edges where the bulkhead tops still show.
Fortunately, the curve is soft enough to allow an edge bend even with timber this broad.
For the remaining planks I followed the etched design on the sub-deck as far as possible. This involves a degree of taper as the strakes run aft.
Three days works sees the completion, and I’m  fairly content with the result.

2575

2551

2554

2569

2580

2584

2585
Still work to do, deck scraping and tidying up before the inner bulwarks are fitted.
 
At this stage clearing dust and debris from the Upper deck is a constant issue.
At least with this amount of open space, I can get to remove it.
 
B.E.
28/10/2023

Post One Hundred and forty-seven
 
A case for Indy – or the trials and tribulations of a shipaholic
 
My previous supplier of acrylic cases, Paul, of Just bases, in Devon, retired in 2021 so I have to look for another source to provide the housing for the latest cuckoo in my nest.
 
The required internal dimensions are width 40”, depth 12” and height 17”. (To allow for stump masts.)
Still a sizeable space taker, but nothing compared to that required for a fully masted and rigged Indy. It’s a good job that I have no aspirations in that direction.

8808
By comparison my Sphinx (above) is housed in a case 30” x 10” x 12” a much more manageable option.
 
I found a home for Sphinx, but as I write I am struggling to find a space for Indy.
 
I have had a look around acrylic case suppliers, and they are expensive.
 
A random selection on the web.
 (acrylicdisplaycases.co.uk)  - £369 excl VAT
 
Display Cases | Striking Displays  - £442.80 excl VAT
 
Model Display Cases & Cabinets | Luminati  - £372.97 excl VAT
These figures also exclude any delivery charges.
 
A search on MSW brought up a reference by Dan (DB789) on his Grecian build to a company called DSC Cases. 
DSC Showcases UK manufacturer of display cases, picture box wall cabinets for modellers and collectors
 
These are wooden trimmed glass cases and one sized for my Indy would cost £220.80. plus £30 delivery.
 
I now only have one glass- cased model in the house, I made it myself many years ago, but these days I simply can’t be arsed.

2801
A favourite of mine, she sits high up between the wall cupboards.
 
Mrs W has mentioned more than once that she must be the only woman ‘blessed’ with having a Flower Class Corvette in her Scullery! 🙄
 
I digress, but it illustrates the shrinking availability of space after some five decades of model making. Most rooms have their allocation of ship models around the house, and I am now being pressed on ‘where you goin’ to put that.
 
Oh, I’ll find somewhere, sez I confidently, wandering around the house 40” rule in hand. 🫤

3730
The ideal place would be atop the chest of drawers in my office, but that is taken by Norske Love, a dusty but much-loved model, I really must get around to cleaning her.
I don’t think I could bear to move her out after all these years.
 
 
I have placed my order with DCS Show cases and I now have around a month to find a suitable place to display her.
 
Tick tock.
 
 
B.E.
19/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-seven
 
A case for Indy – or the trials and tribulations of a shipaholic
 
My previous supplier of acrylic cases, Paul, of Just bases, in Devon, retired in 2021 so I have to look for another source to provide the housing for the latest cuckoo in my nest.
 
The required internal dimensions are width 40”, depth 12” and height 17”. (To allow for stump masts.)
Still a sizeable space taker, but nothing compared to that required for a fully masted and rigged Indy. It’s a good job that I have no aspirations in that direction.

8808
By comparison my Sphinx (above) is housed in a case 30” x 10” x 12” a much more manageable option.
 
I found a home for Sphinx, but as I write I am struggling to find a space for Indy.
 
I have had a look around acrylic case suppliers, and they are expensive.
 
A random selection on the web.
 (acrylicdisplaycases.co.uk)  - £369 excl VAT
 
Display Cases | Striking Displays  - £442.80 excl VAT
 
Model Display Cases & Cabinets | Luminati  - £372.97 excl VAT
These figures also exclude any delivery charges.
 
A search on MSW brought up a reference by Dan (DB789) on his Grecian build to a company called DSC Cases. 
DSC Showcases UK manufacturer of display cases, picture box wall cabinets for modellers and collectors
 
These are wooden trimmed glass cases and one sized for my Indy would cost £220.80. plus £30 delivery.
 
I now only have one glass- cased model in the house, I made it myself many years ago, but these days I simply can’t be arsed.

2801
A favourite of mine, she sits high up between the wall cupboards.
 
Mrs W has mentioned more than once that she must be the only woman ‘blessed’ with having a Flower Class Corvette in her Scullery! 🙄
 
I digress, but it illustrates the shrinking availability of space after some five decades of model making. Most rooms have their allocation of ship models around the house, and I am now being pressed on ‘where you goin’ to put that.
 
Oh, I’ll find somewhere, sez I confidently, wandering around the house 40” rule in hand. 🫤

3730
The ideal place would be atop the chest of drawers in my office, but that is taken by Norske Love, a dusty but much-loved model, I really must get around to cleaning her.
I don’t think I could bear to move her out after all these years.
 
 
I have placed my order with DCS Show cases and I now have around a month to find a suitable place to display her.
 
Tick tock.
 
 
B.E.
19/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Post Ninety
 
Back in the furniture shop
I have re-visited the finish of the furniture.

2302
I was looking for a tone that better matched the varnished Pear of the sideboard and the stern bench.

2305
This time I played around with enamel paints. To get the effect I used Revell Wood brown satin (382) with added drops of Humbrol Matt Scarlet (60) to both darken and redden the tone a tad.
I think this more has the look of Mahogany about it, more typical of the 18th century.
 
Musings about cabin space.
I toyed with the idea of including a Captain’s cot in the bedspace but couldn’t quite figure out how it would be arranged. The cabin has a mere 9’9” depth and that 42 pounder carronade sits in the middle.
I have seen arrangements where the cot/hammocks are hung above guns, but there is only 1’6” space between gun and deck beam above.
The most obvious arrangement would be slung from the beams inboard of the gun and taken down each morning. It would otherwise inhibit access thro’ the double doors.
 
The Coach is less of a problem, where a table and chairs can be accommodated. Referred to as the Captain’s Dining room, I don’t see why anyone would want to dine in the confined space of the coach when the light and airy great cabin is available.
It would be more practically used as the secretary office / Captain’s larder/ storage.
Nelson’s expansive dining room as shown on Victory, this ain’t.
 
I have enjoyed myself today playing around with the furniture on my sea going dolls house.

2315

2316

2321

2322

2327

2323

2325

2326
Fairly happy with the outcome, moving onto deck beams.
 
B.E.
12/10/2023
 
 

Simply beautiful Håkan,
 
Glad to read that you are feeling better.
 
B.E.
 

Nice progress Jason, very pleasing to my eye. 
 
B.E.