Blue Ensign

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Post 67
Carronade installation completed.

3946a
The port side installations went a little quicker than the starboard, but still took a full day.

3949a
An impressive set of teeth has Harpy.
Note the extra slackness of breeching line on the forward run-out carronades. It is a common error to show the lines too tight, which would not allow for recoil.

3954a
Then there are the Long guns….

3967a
The six pounders are quite small, here compared to the 12 pounder chasers on Indy.
I am a bit undecided how to display the long guns aboard Harpy.

3957a
With the guns run-out, those long barrels protruding rather destroys the otherwise symmetry of the broadside.
The effect would be reduced somewhat once the Channels are in place.

3958a
I could angle the bow chasers but that doesn’t hold a great appeal to me.

3959a
An alternative would be to secure alongside. This keeps the guns inboard and does have symmetry that appeals.

3963a
This arrangement, frees up space around the crowded area of the Foremast, Riding bitts, and Bowsprit step, as well as showing a different way to secure the guns.
I’ll ponder a while before deciding but I now have the pleasure of  installing all those deck fittings made earlier.
 
B.E.
21/04/2025

Post 66
Installing the guns.
I start at the stern on the Starboard side, I am  not then working over previously fitted guns. With the Port side guns  the opposite applies.
Given that I will be rigging the guns insitu rather than on an off-model jig I needed to work out the best approach.
I will have to use a slightly simplified method of seizing the breechings given the scale and the size of the line.
 
One of the main issues is folding the line once it has passed thro’ the bulwark ring, in order to seize it.

3927a
I used small sections of heat shrink tubing as sleeves to hold the return of the line whilst I seized it, initially close to the bulwark ring, and with a second seizing a little below it.
I use 0.1mm ø line for the purpose.

3938a
The seizings are painted with diluted pva to secure before trimming.

3932a
This is a tricky exercise to do not least because of the strain on  back and arms, I found sitting at my desk rather than working on my taller work bench worked best for me, but  I still needed a short break after each fitting.

3937a

3934a

3935a
I made the decision to add the breechings after I had fitted the bulwark fittings, but it would be better to rig them on a jig off- model.
This would allow a more authentic seizing of the lines, and would be far easier on the body.
I would certainly have used a jig were I intending to add the tackles, which on Harpy I am not.
 
Two days work to fit the starboard guns, onto the Port side.
That’s my Easter weekend sorted.
 
B.E.
19/04/2025
 

Post 65
Fitting out the deck cont’d.
I begin with the ‘tween deck ladders, best completed at this stage.

3905a
Pesky little constructions, nicely formed, but fiddly to handle.

3910a
The fore ladder in place, notches perfectly over the  Lower deck Fore hatch coaming.

3922a
The aft ladder sits above the deck level, the stiles butt against the lip of the Companionway cover.
 
There are two small steps to the Bow platform.
They are easily identifiable but note that the parts are numbered 74,75,76, and 77,not as given in the Manual. Those relate to the inboard bulwark ladders.

3918a

3915a
Fitting these at this point will not interfere with other work on the deck.
 
The individual centre-line deck fittings have mostly been completed and only require gluing into place on the deck.
I considered it would be better to first fit the guns given the fiddly nature of rigging the Breechings, and the less incumbrances the better.

3920a
0.88mm ø Syren rigging line is used for the breechings, with a length of 130mm to allow for securing at the bulwarks.
The actual line length given for a 32 pounder carronade is 20 ft or 95mm at scale.
 
The next stage will be seating the guns and  seizing the breechings to the bulwarks.

3909a

3908a
A tedious exercise I suspect, so I may be some time.
 
B.E.
17/04/2025

 

Cheers Ronald and Mark, and thanks to all following along, much appreciated.
Post 64
Headworks cont’d
Additional Timber heads

3848b
I decided to have a punt at creating the aftmost timberhead as shown on the Adm plan above.

3864a
I used the spare kit part as a template for the basic shape, traced onto some spare 1.5mm fret, and cut out on the jigsaw.

3869a

3875a

3878a
I suspect that some detail is missing from the head works, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be an Adm. plan of this area.

3880a
I don’t know whether it is a kit simplification, or based on  other sources, but I have doubts that the space between the Head timbers and rails would simply be a void.
At the very least I would expect there to be Head beams running between the Head timbers, linked by Carlings in the fore/aft direction.

3887a
I decided to add these and the saddle, but leave out any further enhancement.
I’ll fit the carlings later, once I’ve checked that they don’t foul the Gammoning.

3897a
Would there have been gratings, and seats of ease for the crew? Harpy did carry quite a large crew (121), and I presume the  ‘Necessary’ at the stern was for the use of Officers.🤔
 
The final part is to add the decorative scroll work.

3901a
This is primed with Metal Prep 4k before painting with ochre brown.

3883a

3891a

3893a

3886a
The hull is complete now, but I think Harpy has raised more questions in my mind than Sphinx and Indy taken together, all great fun, and I’m enjoying this build far more than I imagined I would.
 
……..Back to the deck fittings.
 
B.E.
15/04/2025
 
 
 

Post 63
The Head works.
This is a critical area in the modelling of ships of this type, so, the first thing that happens is the part that represents the gammoning knee/ extension piece breaks into three pieces.
... and I thought I had soft hands🫤

3840a
These were reconstructed on the model before moving on.
There are two head timbers and the smaller forward one also  broke into two parts. Fortunately there are spares for the head timbers.

3848b
I noted during working this area that the Adm. Plan shows a third head timber close by the stem?
I’ll have a look once the Main rails are fitted how feasible it would be to install a third set.

3842a
Great care is necessary handling the Hair brackets and I didn’t attempt to remove the char from the edges. They were pre-painted using Vallejo Ochre Brown before fitting.

3846a
The upper and lower cheeks are nicely formed and required very little adjustment to fit. I fitted the upper one first which sits atop the wale, to act as a guide  for fitting the lower.
The Hawse Bolsters require reducing in depth by around 2mm, and are improved by rounding the edges and chamfering the  grooves over which the cables  would run to reduce wear.
I also induced a slight round to match the curve of the bow area.
 
The Main Rails

3847a
I usually find holding the rails in place for dry fitting a bit tricky, but not so bad with Harpy. Pleased to note that the rails sit against the head timbers without manipulation, so I think  using pva on the hull and cyano on the head timbers will work.
 
I was a little confused about the positioning of the Main rail where it meets the cathead.
The manual and the prototype photos show it ending beneath the Sheer rail; Plan 5 suggests it runs over the rail against the underside of the Cathead.
There are examples of both approaches on builds ahead of me at this point.

3860a
I opted for the lower position which makes it flush with the Sheer rail, but importantly it still met the head timbers correctly.
 
Cathead support Bracket.
This fits over the Main Rail beneath the Cathead.

3856a
The brackets do require some tweaking for best fit and it improves the aesthetics to simply shape a slight curve on the outer sides of the bracket.

3852a

3861a
Not quite done with the headworks yet…..
 
B.E.
14/04/2025

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Post 69
Deck fittings cont’d
Brake Pumps
A pair of these are the only means of clearing the bilge on Harpy.

3999a
They are nicely designed with hexagonal pump bodies and fine brass etch attachments.
With the open unplanked decks of Harpy the ‘elm tree tubes that run down thro’ the decks to bilge are on view.

4004a
Trickiest part of assembly is blackening and gluing the brass etch parts together without destroying the surface finish.
I added ‘lead’ discharge pipes to the pumps.

4009a

4011a

4012a
Getting to look quite busy on the deck.
 
Internal Bulwark ladders.
These don’t receive a mention until very late in the manual (Section 491) but they are made up as per the other ladders using parts 70 -73 from the 0.6mm  laser sheet.

4007a

4008a

4017a
Now, about those tiller lines….
 
B.E.
24/04/2025
 

Good call. It would be a crying shame to have to redo fine work already completed. Having to force anything just shows that the tolerances are off and need some fine tuning, particularly important in the fiddly business of model ship building. That deck is looking so very good!

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Post 65
Fitting out the deck cont’d.
I begin with the ‘tween deck ladders, best completed at this stage.

3905a
Pesky little constructions, nicely formed, but fiddly to handle.

3910a
The fore ladder in place, notches perfectly over the  Lower deck Fore hatch coaming.

3922a
The aft ladder sits above the deck level, the stiles butt against the lip of the Companionway cover.
 
There are two small steps to the Bow platform.
They are easily identifiable but note that the parts are numbered 74,75,76, and 77,not as given in the Manual. Those relate to the inboard bulwark ladders.

3918a

3915a
Fitting these at this point will not interfere with other work on the deck.
 
The individual centre-line deck fittings have mostly been completed and only require gluing into place on the deck.
I considered it would be better to first fit the guns given the fiddly nature of rigging the Breechings, and the less incumbrances the better.

3920a
0.88mm ø Syren rigging line is used for the breechings, with a length of 130mm to allow for securing at the bulwarks.
The actual line length given for a 32 pounder carronade is 20 ft or 95mm at scale.
 
The next stage will be seating the guns and  seizing the breechings to the bulwarks.

3909a

3908a
A tedious exercise I suspect, so I may be some time.
 
B.E.
17/04/2025

 

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Cheers Ronald and Mark, and thanks to all following along, much appreciated.
Post 64
Headworks cont’d
Additional Timber heads

3848b
I decided to have a punt at creating the aftmost timberhead as shown on the Adm plan above.

3864a
I used the spare kit part as a template for the basic shape, traced onto some spare 1.5mm fret, and cut out on the jigsaw.

3869a

3875a

3878a
I suspect that some detail is missing from the head works, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be an Adm. plan of this area.

3880a
I don’t know whether it is a kit simplification, or based on  other sources, but I have doubts that the space between the Head timbers and rails would simply be a void.
At the very least I would expect there to be Head beams running between the Head timbers, linked by Carlings in the fore/aft direction.

3887a
I decided to add these and the saddle, but leave out any further enhancement.
I’ll fit the carlings later, once I’ve checked that they don’t foul the Gammoning.

3897a
Would there have been gratings, and seats of ease for the crew? Harpy did carry quite a large crew (121), and I presume the  ‘Necessary’ at the stern was for the use of Officers.🤔
 
The final part is to add the decorative scroll work.

3901a
This is primed with Metal Prep 4k before painting with ochre brown.

3883a

3891a

3893a

3886a
The hull is complete now, but I think Harpy has raised more questions in my mind than Sphinx and Indy taken together, all great fun, and I’m enjoying this build far more than I imagined I would.
 
……..Back to the deck fittings.
 
B.E.
15/04/2025
 
 
 

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Post 66
Installing the guns.
I start at the stern on the Starboard side, I am  not then working over previously fitted guns. With the Port side guns  the opposite applies.
Given that I will be rigging the guns insitu rather than on an off-model jig I needed to work out the best approach.
I will have to use a slightly simplified method of seizing the breechings given the scale and the size of the line.
 
One of the main issues is folding the line once it has passed thro’ the bulwark ring, in order to seize it.

3927a
I used small sections of heat shrink tubing as sleeves to hold the return of the line whilst I seized it, initially close to the bulwark ring, and with a second seizing a little below it.
I use 0.1mm ø line for the purpose.

3938a
The seizings are painted with diluted pva to secure before trimming.

3932a
This is a tricky exercise to do not least because of the strain on  back and arms, I found sitting at my desk rather than working on my taller work bench worked best for me, but  I still needed a short break after each fitting.

3937a

3934a

3935a
I made the decision to add the breechings after I had fitted the bulwark fittings, but it would be better to rig them on a jig off- model.
This would allow a more authentic seizing of the lines, and would be far easier on the body.
I would certainly have used a jig were I intending to add the tackles, which on Harpy I am not.
 
Two days work to fit the starboard guns, onto the Port side.
That’s my Easter weekend sorted.
 
B.E.
19/04/2025
 

Post 65
Fitting out the deck cont’d.
I begin with the ‘tween deck ladders, best completed at this stage.

3905a
Pesky little constructions, nicely formed, but fiddly to handle.

3910a
The fore ladder in place, notches perfectly over the  Lower deck Fore hatch coaming.

3922a
The aft ladder sits above the deck level, the stiles butt against the lip of the Companionway cover.
 
There are two small steps to the Bow platform.
They are easily identifiable but note that the parts are numbered 74,75,76, and 77,not as given in the Manual. Those relate to the inboard bulwark ladders.

3918a

3915a
Fitting these at this point will not interfere with other work on the deck.
 
The individual centre-line deck fittings have mostly been completed and only require gluing into place on the deck.
I considered it would be better to first fit the guns given the fiddly nature of rigging the Breechings, and the less incumbrances the better.

3920a
0.88mm ø Syren rigging line is used for the breechings, with a length of 130mm to allow for securing at the bulwarks.
The actual line length given for a 32 pounder carronade is 20 ft or 95mm at scale.
 
The next stage will be seating the guns and  seizing the breechings to the bulwarks.

3909a

3908a
A tedious exercise I suspect, so I may be some time.
 
B.E.
17/04/2025