Blue Ensign

good evening everyone
 
thank you for comments and like, and the ongoing conversation about loss of life and survivors
 
having built up the 2nd set of racks i then had to work out how they are fitted, they appear to sit on top of two small cabins, of which i presently dont know their purpose, but they have doors, so yet again when i find out, i will let you know
 

good evening everyone
 
taken a couple of days to sort myself out and get back into the build, finding everything is the issue
i have started to fill the portholes in with PVA glue, a process that is going to take a while, but the ones that worked about 9/10 are ok and give me the result i wanted, just 1000's to go
i am now going to work from front to back and the forecastle has some attention now, it looks ok, but the railings are so fine, they will have to wait
the foremast is made up, but will be secured later
the steam winches and other bits are still to be painted
the forward well deck is next

 

Good evening everyone
thank you so much for comments and likes
 
as @realworkingsailor suggested i went and ordered some more suitable I frame (3 different sizes) and today made another attempt at the after Boat rack (Evergreen 272 and 1mm brass wire, i am real pleasd with the result
whilst waiting for the strips i also did other bits like detailing the after stack


 

Cheers Guys,
 
As it happens in the past week, I have received my printed pictorial build album.
 I have done one of these for all my builds, it is a shame not to use all those build photos and record those internal details lost from view.
 
A few pages to give a flavour.

9094

9095

9096

9097

9098

8926(3)
Once again, thanks for your support, much appreciated.
 
 
B.E.
05/11/2022
 
 
 

Cheers Guys,
 
As it happens in the past week, I have received my printed pictorial build album.
 I have done one of these for all my builds, it is a shame not to use all those build photos and record those internal details lost from view.
 
A few pages to give a flavour.

9094

9095

9096

9097

9098

8926(3)
Once again, thanks for your support, much appreciated.
 
 
B.E.
05/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Two
Not the most exciting part of a build, but I don’t think James has covered the Barge in his build logs, so I’ll run thro’ the initial stage.
 
The bulkheads fit snugly into the building board to the underside of which a grip is glued to secure in a vice.

9165
In short order the next stage is to fit the delicate Pearwood keel.
This is a soft hands procedure and care must be taken not to force the keel slots into the bulkhead slots which are very fine particularly those at the bow and stern.
I tested each keel slot against its bulkhead partner before attempting the keel fit.
9170

9167
The keel is eased into position, and I ensure it sits fully down on the bulkheads.

9173
The keel is also checked for true. Once satisfied diluted pva was run into the joints.

9186
Unlike other boats in the range the barge has a sub-deck. To fit this four of the bulkhead bridges have to be removed to allow access.

9177

9189

9192
One of the advantages of the sub-deck is that it should help to counter twist in the bulkheads once the fairing begins.

9193
The arms of the Flying Transom are glued into place.

9199
Fitting the Flying Transom is a tricky business, I opted to glue the arms to the fixed transom first, and then slotted the Flying transom between before the pva hardened off.
 
The hull is now set aside for the glue to set.
 
B.E.
04/11/2022
 
 
 

Cheers Guys,
 
As it happens in the past week, I have received my printed pictorial build album.
 I have done one of these for all my builds, it is a shame not to use all those build photos and record those internal details lost from view.
 
A few pages to give a flavour.

9094

9095

9096

9097

9098

8926(3)
Once again, thanks for your support, much appreciated.
 
 
B.E.
05/11/2022
 
 
 

Fun of course is a relative term; I'm missing a pathfinder build log from you James, where I can sit and stare at the process, does not Indy have a barge?
I think my Flying Transom has shifted somewhat since I fitted it, but as long as the arms don't break the panel can be re-jigged.
 
The more I look at your Indy build, the more my resolve not to succumb to it weakens - repeat I cannot do another large-scale build, I have not the room for another large-scale build......
 
B.E.

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Fun of course is a relative term; I'm missing a pathfinder build log from you James, where I can sit and stare at the process, does not Indy have a barge?
I think my Flying Transom has shifted somewhat since I fitted it, but as long as the arms don't break the panel can be re-jigged.
 
The more I look at your Indy build, the more my resolve not to succumb to it weakens - repeat I cannot do another large-scale build, I have not the room for another large-scale build......
 
B.E.

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Cheers Guys,
 
As it happens in the past week, I have received my printed pictorial build album.
 I have done one of these for all my builds, it is a shame not to use all those build photos and record those internal details lost from view.
 
A few pages to give a flavour.

9094

9095

9096

9097

9098

8926(3)
Once again, thanks for your support, much appreciated.
 
 
B.E.
05/11/2022
 
 
 

Fun of course is a relative term; I'm missing a pathfinder build log from you James, where I can sit and stare at the process, does not Indy have a barge?
I think my Flying Transom has shifted somewhat since I fitted it, but as long as the arms don't break the panel can be re-jigged.
 
The more I look at your Indy build, the more my resolve not to succumb to it weakens - repeat I cannot do another large-scale build, I have not the room for another large-scale build......
 
B.E.

Post Two
Not the most exciting part of a build, but I don’t think James has covered the Barge in his build logs, so I’ll run thro’ the initial stage.
 
The bulkheads fit snugly into the building board to the underside of which a grip is glued to secure in a vice.

9165
In short order the next stage is to fit the delicate Pearwood keel.
This is a soft hands procedure and care must be taken not to force the keel slots into the bulkhead slots which are very fine particularly those at the bow and stern.
I tested each keel slot against its bulkhead partner before attempting the keel fit.
9170

9167
The keel is eased into position, and I ensure it sits fully down on the bulkheads.

9173
The keel is also checked for true. Once satisfied diluted pva was run into the joints.

9186
Unlike other boats in the range the barge has a sub-deck. To fit this four of the bulkhead bridges have to be removed to allow access.

9177

9189

9192
One of the advantages of the sub-deck is that it should help to counter twist in the bulkheads once the fairing begins.

9193
The arms of the Flying Transom are glued into place.

9199
Fitting the Flying Transom is a tricky business, I opted to glue the arms to the fixed transom first, and then slotted the Flying transom between before the pva hardened off.
 
The hull is now set aside for the glue to set.
 
B.E.
04/11/2022
 
 
 

I am still not ready to move onto a larger project, but I have had for a while an example of Vanguard Models 36’ Admirals Barge circa 1750.
I have included this build in the 1751-1800 section as it generally reflects the style from the middle to late 18th century.

09158
At £48 this is the most expensive of the current boat range, an added incentive not to cock it up.
The model has a length of 165mm - 6½” in old money – still pretty small to fit in the extra detail applicable to an Admiral’s Barge.

09160
The kit follows the build method common to this Vanguard range, plank over inverted bulkheads using Pearwood planks.

09162
Brass etch is provided for the footwaling and decoration, but the provided brass etch panelling has been replaced with Pearwood detailing also included in the kit.
 
I do have a fondness for this type of boat, having built three Pinnaces and Queen Anne’s Barge, and this bijou version presents some interesting challenges.
It is fortunate that there are several contemporary models of Barges in the NMM at 1:24 scale from which to draw detail.
One thing that catches my eye is that the kit is set up for double banked rowing - thole pins both sides for each thwart, and two rowers per thwart.
The contemporary models of this period invariably show Barges set up for single banking - one rower to each thwart seated alternatively port and starboard, with a longer oar shipped over the opposite side of the boat to the rower.

0929
A mock-up on my Pinnace build shows the arrangement for single banked rowing.
 
This is all a fair way ahead in the build and need not concern me yet.
Basics first.
 
 
B.E.
03/11/2022
 
 
 

Cheers Guys,
 
As it happens in the past week, I have received my printed pictorial build album.
 I have done one of these for all my builds, it is a shame not to use all those build photos and record those internal details lost from view.
 
A few pages to give a flavour.

9094

9095

9096

9097

9098

8926(3)
Once again, thanks for your support, much appreciated.
 
 
B.E.
05/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

I am still not ready to move onto a larger project, but I have had for a while an example of Vanguard Models 36’ Admirals Barge circa 1750.
I have included this build in the 1751-1800 section as it generally reflects the style from the middle to late 18th century.

09158
At £48 this is the most expensive of the current boat range, an added incentive not to cock it up.
The model has a length of 165mm - 6½” in old money – still pretty small to fit in the extra detail applicable to an Admiral’s Barge.

09160
The kit follows the build method common to this Vanguard range, plank over inverted bulkheads using Pearwood planks.

09162
Brass etch is provided for the footwaling and decoration, but the provided brass etch panelling has been replaced with Pearwood detailing also included in the kit.
 
I do have a fondness for this type of boat, having built three Pinnaces and Queen Anne’s Barge, and this bijou version presents some interesting challenges.
It is fortunate that there are several contemporary models of Barges in the NMM at 1:24 scale from which to draw detail.
One thing that catches my eye is that the kit is set up for double banked rowing - thole pins both sides for each thwart, and two rowers per thwart.
The contemporary models of this period invariably show Barges set up for single banking - one rower to each thwart seated alternatively port and starboard, with a longer oar shipped over the opposite side of the boat to the rower.

0929
A mock-up on my Pinnace build shows the arrangement for single banked rowing.
 
This is all a fair way ahead in the build and need not concern me yet.
Basics first.
 
 
B.E.
03/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Two
Not the most exciting part of a build, but I don’t think James has covered the Barge in his build logs, so I’ll run thro’ the initial stage.
 
The bulkheads fit snugly into the building board to the underside of which a grip is glued to secure in a vice.

9165
In short order the next stage is to fit the delicate Pearwood keel.
This is a soft hands procedure and care must be taken not to force the keel slots into the bulkhead slots which are very fine particularly those at the bow and stern.
I tested each keel slot against its bulkhead partner before attempting the keel fit.
9170

9167
The keel is eased into position, and I ensure it sits fully down on the bulkheads.

9173
The keel is also checked for true. Once satisfied diluted pva was run into the joints.

9186
Unlike other boats in the range the barge has a sub-deck. To fit this four of the bulkhead bridges have to be removed to allow access.

9177

9189

9192
One of the advantages of the sub-deck is that it should help to counter twist in the bulkheads once the fairing begins.

9193
The arms of the Flying Transom are glued into place.

9199
Fitting the Flying Transom is a tricky business, I opted to glue the arms to the fixed transom first, and then slotted the Flying transom between before the pva hardened off.
 
The hull is now set aside for the glue to set.
 
B.E.
04/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022