Blue Ensign

Post 3 
Internal fittings
All the wooden internal fittings are laser cut on 0.8mm Pear sheet.

4788
The thwarts fit perfectly in their allotted positions, and at a correct rowing height.

4797

4799
Always good when the feet of a scale figure are a perfect fit for thwart and footwaling.
 
The stern benches are notched to fit over the frames, and again are a perfect fit.

4796
One feature that caught my eye was to see that the benches fitted over the aftermost thwarts.

The drawing would support that view, at least on this design of Launch.
 
The Rudder
This is fairly fragile at 0.8mm, and the head of the rudder split a little in the area of the tiller insert.

The kit set-up has the addition of side cheeks, for want of a better word, either side of the head, between which the tiller is inserted.
I don’t recall ever seeing such an arrangement on boat rudders. I wonder if it is supposed to represent a sort of tiller cowl that slots over the rudder head?

4804
I don’t know if such an arrangement ever existed in the 18thc, but either way I thought it looked a little odd, and rather ugly, so I re-made a new rudder using 1mm Pear. (left hand version)
 
Oars are supplied in 0.8mm Pear and I note that Chris has designed in the broader elements of the loom. The blades are also finer than on other editions.👍

4807
I think the oars more than fulfil their purpose at this scale.
 
The next post will see the completion of this long weekend project.
 
B.E.
25/05/2024

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Snipping tool Gregory, that’s something I use to trim the ends of rigging line, is there any other sort.

Ah, I see, screen shots are beyond my old Windows 11 desk top tech, should have used the iPad.
 

Thanks Chris, I did see that but I couldn't get it to enlarge.
 
B.E.

Building the new Vanguard Resin 26’ Launch.
 
Partly out of curiosity I decided to get one of Chris’s new hot off the press resin launches. It will provide an interesting exercise in woodifying the resin hull and allow me to compare with the wooden kit versions.
It may also help to lay the ghost of my failure with the Indy kit version, and if nothing else I will avoid the frustration of breakages.
 
A look in the package

4748
This is what you get.

4743
Internally the Keelson is represented together with mast and davit steps.
The solid floor footwaling is represented by broader planking sections for which there is historical evidence.
 
My current Medway Longboat also has much broader floor  planking.

4741
The moulding is very nicely done and looks to need very little clean -up beyond washing the resin.

4742
I note that there is no indication of external planking strakes, possibly thought unnecessary because the hull must be painted and they would be pretty fine and not show thro’ the paint.
 
The oar arrangement is for double banking, which is appropriate given the Admiralty order of 1783 regarding Launches.

4745
The significant feature of a Launch, the windlass, is also supplied in resin. I am pleased that this feature has been included, these are tricky to make at 1:64 scale, I know, I made one to go with the Launch for Sphinx.

4746
The remaining Resin fitting is the davit.
 
I don’t think there are any instructions with these kits but then there is not much in the way of construction required to complete the model. All the hard work has been done, internal framing and the all-important thwart supports are moulded in.
The thwarts and stern sheets are of 0.8mm Pearwood and look to simply slot into place with minimal effort.
 
The key factor in producing a fine model is all in the painting with this medium, we’ll see how I get on.🤔
 
Both the Resin and the alternative wooden kit versions are the same price at £29.00. The difference is that with the wooden version brass etch grapnels and boathooks are included, along with a good serving of tricky building time, but it doesn’t have the windlass.
 
I wonder if the Resin fitting would be appropriate to supply with the Pearwood Launch version as an optional extra?
 
 On with the assembly.
 
B.E.
21/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

For 3-d printed resin, there is no release agent to clean off, like resin from moulds, as the parts are thoroughly cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any resin once printed – so the only contaminants on these would be from handling only.

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
-----
iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Building the new Vanguard Resin 26’ Launch.
 
Partly out of curiosity I decided to get one of Chris’s new hot off the press resin launches. It will provide an interesting exercise in woodifying the resin hull and allow me to compare with the wooden kit versions.
It may also help to lay the ghost of my failure with the Indy kit version, and if nothing else I will avoid the frustration of breakages.
 
A look in the package

4748
This is what you get.

4743
Internally the Keelson is represented together with mast and davit steps.
The solid floor footwaling is represented by broader planking sections for which there is historical evidence.
 
My current Medway Longboat also has much broader floor  planking.

4741
The moulding is very nicely done and looks to need very little clean -up beyond washing the resin.

4742
I note that there is no indication of external planking strakes, possibly thought unnecessary because the hull must be painted and they would be pretty fine and not show thro’ the paint.
 
The oar arrangement is for double banking, which is appropriate given the Admiralty order of 1783 regarding Launches.

4745
The significant feature of a Launch, the windlass, is also supplied in resin. I am pleased that this feature has been included, these are tricky to make at 1:64 scale, I know, I made one to go with the Launch for Sphinx.

4746
The remaining Resin fitting is the davit.
 
I don’t think there are any instructions with these kits but then there is not much in the way of construction required to complete the model. All the hard work has been done, internal framing and the all-important thwart supports are moulded in.
The thwarts and stern sheets are of 0.8mm Pearwood and look to simply slot into place with minimal effort.
 
The key factor in producing a fine model is all in the painting with this medium, we’ll see how I get on.🤔
 
Both the Resin and the alternative wooden kit versions are the same price at £29.00. The difference is that with the wooden version brass etch grapnels and boathooks are included, along with a good serving of tricky building time, but it doesn’t have the windlass.
 
I wonder if the Resin fitting would be appropriate to supply with the Pearwood Launch version as an optional extra?
 
 On with the assembly.
 
B.E.
21/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Building the new Vanguard Resin 26’ Launch.
 
Partly out of curiosity I decided to get one of Chris’s new hot off the press resin launches. It will provide an interesting exercise in woodifying the resin hull and allow me to compare with the wooden kit versions.
It may also help to lay the ghost of my failure with the Indy kit version, and if nothing else I will avoid the frustration of breakages.
 
A look in the package

4748
This is what you get.

4743
Internally the Keelson is represented together with mast and davit steps.
The solid floor footwaling is represented by broader planking sections for which there is historical evidence.
 
My current Medway Longboat also has much broader floor  planking.

4741
The moulding is very nicely done and looks to need very little clean -up beyond washing the resin.

4742
I note that there is no indication of external planking strakes, possibly thought unnecessary because the hull must be painted and they would be pretty fine and not show thro’ the paint.
 
The oar arrangement is for double banking, which is appropriate given the Admiralty order of 1783 regarding Launches.

4745
The significant feature of a Launch, the windlass, is also supplied in resin. I am pleased that this feature has been included, these are tricky to make at 1:64 scale, I know, I made one to go with the Launch for Sphinx.

4746
The remaining Resin fitting is the davit.
 
I don’t think there are any instructions with these kits but then there is not much in the way of construction required to complete the model. All the hard work has been done, internal framing and the all-important thwart supports are moulded in.
The thwarts and stern sheets are of 0.8mm Pearwood and look to simply slot into place with minimal effort.
 
The key factor in producing a fine model is all in the painting with this medium, we’ll see how I get on.🤔
 
Both the Resin and the alternative wooden kit versions are the same price at £29.00. The difference is that with the wooden version brass etch grapnels and boathooks are included, along with a good serving of tricky building time, but it doesn’t have the windlass.
 
I wonder if the Resin fitting would be appropriate to supply with the Pearwood Launch version as an optional extra?
 
 On with the assembly.
 
B.E.
21/05/2024
 

Snipping tool Gregory, that’s something I use to trim the ends of rigging line, is there any other sort.

The chimney has been re-painted black. I am now working (between many other things...) on the bow and more specifically trying to improve on the CAF kit. The pictures below are showing the short dowel provided by CAF Models for the Bowsprit:


 
Of course, the original kit wants to present the model as an Admiralty proposal.
 

 
I will be presenting soon the improved bowsprit that I intend to use on my model.
 
Yves

A quick update, as I have not had much time to work on this model, due to multiple side activities.
 
I completed the chimney for the oven. All parts are made of copper tubes and aluminum tubes, soldered and glued together. The shape is inspired from the Anatomy of the Ship book.
 

 

 
On the deck:
 

 

 

 
Hmmm... after seeing these pictures, I think I need to paint it darker....
Yves

Snipping tool Gregory, that’s something I use to trim the ends of rigging line, is there any other sort.