Blue Ensign

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty
Quarterdeck Breast rail
This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit.
The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness.
No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding.
In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section.
6868(2)
Even char removal has risks of  changing the profile so a very light touch is required
 
I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the  bulwark rails.

6855
The middle rail  I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set.

6860
I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail.
I wasn’t  too  keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well.
The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.)

6871
Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright,  but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place.
 
The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock.

6883
The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot.

6882
Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted.

6892
The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail.

6890
Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur.
 

I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step.

6894
I decided to add these to Sphinx.
 
 
I’ll leave this area for now and  and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel.
 
 
B.E.
18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Nineteen
 
Fun with volutes.
With the  rails completed between the  Foc’sle and Qtr Deck I turn my attention to the volutes either end.
Not too impressed with my own  fixing of these decorative features, they look like a lot of fettlin’ is required, all down to me no doubt despite Chris’s best efforts.
Made up of four laminations fitted at differing times I clearly failed to get the alignment spot on.
Fortunately these are to be painted which at least allows rectification to be made with some extra work.

6826
The Foc’sle  volutes are easier to fettle than those of the Q’deck.

6827
Filling along this Quarterdeck section was also required to produce a smooth surface matching the Gunwale strips, the aim is to mask the lamination lines.

6819
I used  Winsor and Newton modelling paste to fill any gaps and beef up the volutes.

6848

6843

6842
With that done I can fix the Q’deck gunwales in place. As with those of the Foc’sle  I kept the inner edge flush with the bulwark and  applied a slight round to the outer edge.

6836
There is a lot of re-touching of the paintwork not only of the Gunwales but the inner bulwarks and Topsides.
 

6850
The transom knees are now fitted having applied a coat of red to the Transom, and the gluing surface then scraped away.

6837
I found these knees the very devil to fit; even with chamfering the fit was poor and I found it necessary to fill the join along the Transom edge.

6851(2)
The Breast rails beckon.
 
 
B.E.
15/05/22
 

Foremast Shrouds - Complete
I have finally completed adding the foremast shrouds at the third attempt. The shroud deadeyes are still a bit uneven but overall I am happy with how they are looking. My technique has improved immeasurably compared with my previous builds but there is still room for improvement. Hopefully the main mast shrouds will look even better.
 
The seizing will look much better when they have been dyed black with Indian ink.

They look a bit better when view from afar!

Well uh yupp!!!  I decided to make an entirely new lantern.  I tweaked it yet again.  There were two things bugging me.  Not that I wasnt happy with the old one but I know I would see those two issues for eternity.
 
SO first I reduced the overall diameter.  The heght was fine.  But it was a bit to fat for my tastes.  I reduced it to 95% of what it was.  Just a wee bit.  In addition I reworked the design to move the vent on the roof aft slightly.  Previously it was in the center of the hex.  That is incorrect and kept bugging me.  The vent should be on the same diagonal as the aft edge or main axis of the lantern.
 
That was challenging to design but building it is no different.
 
Here are some photos of the revises lantern which to my eye looks more to scale and better.  I hope you agree although it may difficult to see such small changes.   I am my own worst enemy with this stuff.  Its also higher on the transom as we spoke about.  I used the contemporary models of Amazon and the princess Royal to get a good sense of the height.  The door can easily swing open to service the lantern and its easily accessible. It takes a good full day to make this lantern and mount it.  Although much quicker this last time around.  I have made six in all.  There are a lot of failures you guys dont see.
 



 
 

Post One Hundred and Six
 Foc’sle deck cont’d.

6396

6403
The sub- deck is glued into position.
 
The first consideration is the Margin plank, Sphinx has a tight turn at the bow which makes  fitting more difficult.
 There are two options, cut it out of suitable sheet stock or edge bend it using heat.
Edge bending 6mm wide x 0.6mm strip is an almost impossible option, even with repeat soakings, bendings, and the application of a hot iron, the result is not pretty.
 
Where is a piece of 0.6mm Boxwood sheet when you need one to cut the margins, not in my workshop.
An order is submitted and the item delivered in 24hrs, great service from Original Marquetry.

6399
When I ordered this ‘sheet’ I hadn’t quite realised how long it was, I was primarily concerned with width and depth.

6400
Still, I now have more than enough to satisfy any future needs.

6405(2)
A template for the margins is taken from the sub deck and glued to the Boxwood sheet.

6407
This is thin enough to cut with a scalpel; needs tidying up  and adjusting for the inner bulwarks yet to be fitted.
 
The plan is to fit the inner bulwark patterns directly on the  engraved deck pattern, now my sub -deck, fit the margins to them. and add the thinner inner patterns atop the margins.
 
B.E.
07/04/22
 
 
 

Post One Hundred and Five.
 
Foc’sle deck cont’d
A representation of the Cat Tail (beam) is attended to next.
Part of this will be visible  thro’ the unplanked deck so needs to be in place.
Because of the design of the kit I can only display  the aft end of the tail as it fixes beneath the deck beam forward of the Bowsprit stop.

6374
The forward end is abruptly terminated against the kit bulkhead beneath the extra beam I fitted at the very forward end.
 
The Cathead position is marked on the bulwark and it is suggested that this be enlarged by filing out to suit once all the decking and inner bulwark patterns are fitted, and the Cathead inserted thro’ from the outside.
 
This seems to be an awkward approach to the job, I cut a slot in the outer bulwark to facilitate a trial fit.

6392
I need to ensure that the Cathead aligns with the Cat Tail.

6388
The ‘false’ deck is temporarily pinned into place with a deck piece to facilitate alignment and fitting.

6387
Not fully adjusted at this stage but the stive looks pretty steep.
 
A small adjustment to the cross beams of the Bitts; I filled in the belay pin holes.

6380
There is evidence that such items were not in use at least in the early years of ships of this era, and many contemporary models do not show them.

6373
The Foc’sle steam grating/ Flue assembly is modified to reflect its fixture to the deck beam/carlings, and is given a slight round-up to the head ledges/gratings.
 
The provided veneer deck pattern deck piece is modified to suit my arrangement, and will be planked over using Boxwood strip.

6371
I have already fitted the breast beam decking strip with slots to take the rails and Belfry which will sit directly on the carlings.
Before I glue this in place I will check out how the planking strips actually relate to the pattern.
 
B.E.
04/04/22

Post One Hundred and Four.
Fore deck considerations.
Before I can do anything further with the Foc’sle  the four guns have to be put into place.

6292
 A production line approach is taken for painting and assembly, a repetitive job, but I do like those resin guns.

6342(2)
The last thing to fit are the Quoins, the handles are represented by a pva blob.

6349(2)
Once cleaned, coated with spray matt varnish, and weathering powder applied, they do look the part and I doubt I would return to  brass versions.

6350
I will have to go with the kit set-up in relation to beams, but I added an additional beam against the existing bulkhead at the bow.
This will provide a ledge to  fix the Cat beam against its underside, and further mask the solid bulkhead.
With the guns glued into place the deck beams are added.

6353

6354
I’m not sure why the two  half beams either side of the mast extend beyond the carlings, perhaps it is just to provide additional support for the deck around the Foremast.
 
I adjusted beams 460T to be flush with the inner edges of the carlings and prepared mast partners to fit in the space.

6362
A card template is used to form the partners.
 
Once again Chuck’s ‘Winnie’ build has given me a lead, this time for planking the Fore deck.

6365
Tweaked to suit Sphinx I think I can make it work.

6367

6368
Additional planking will be required at the bow, but otherwise I will leave the deck un-planked.

The next tricky little job is to work out the Cat beam position but for that I need to assemble the Catheads.
 
B.E.
02/04/22

 
 
 

Post One Hundred and three.
 
Fettlin’ the Foc’sle Beams.

6271
With a fresh set of sanding sticks prepared I am ready to get stuck into the char removal from the deck beams. Fortunately the last major exercise of this type.

6273
The beams are quite delicate and it’s worth repeating that it’s best to support them in a vice for sanding to eliminate the risk of snapping at the mortises.
 
In trying to more authentically represent the deck beams of the Foc’sle I am faced with a trickier situation than with the Quarterdeck.

6274
The two carling parts (459) are not an authentic fitting.
Together with the foremost and aftermost deck beams ’S’ and ‘Z’ they form a box structure to support the deck beams, with the consequence that the fitting of deck ledges is inhibited.
This is not a criticism  of the kit which was not designed  for this level of detailing, but it means that the deck planking will need to extend beyond this point.
 
I have decided to fit the Galley doors; the decision had to be made before the aft deck beam was fitted.
 
Having painted the remaining beams they are trialled for fit to make sure that no nasty surprises are lurking.

6280

6284

6285

6286
It all slots together very cleanly.
 
I have a lot of things to think about in relation to the Foc’sle.
Fitting of hanging knees in conjunction with the beams, there are sufficient kit provided parts to do this.
I like the look of the exposed beams and fancy leaving it more open than the Qtr deck. It will need planking along the bulwarks inboard to the outer carlings and on the solid bulkhead section at the bow.
Other than that I am inclined to leave it completely un-planked but I will fit the coamings and gratings above the galley stove.
There is the tricky question of the Cat beam running beneath the deck beams and the connection to the Cathead, it is not clear in my mind how to approach this yet.
 
Still for the next week I will be enjoying the magnificent  scenery of the Menai Straits.

5032
There has barely been a day over the past few months that I haven’t worked on Sphinx and I’m not sure I won’t get withdrawal symptoms, but  Anglesey has its compensations, not least the wonderful photo opportunities.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
25/03/22

 

Thank you Christian and Thomas, and for all the 'likes'.
 
Post One hundred and One
 
A few more thoughts on the Galley stove.
Sphinx would certainly have had an iron stove, but one that pre-dated the introduction of the Brodie Stove.
Up to the time of standardisation following the introduction of the Brodie stove I understand there were  several manufacturers of iron stoves, all broadly similar.
What we have in the kit is a sort of Hybrid, having some features common to the Brodie, the chain drive being the most noticeable.
 I was puzzled by the two holes in the back panel of the Sphinx stove, so I scoured thro’ all my reference books on the subject.
The closest I could find is the stove used on the Dorsetshire of 1757.

The Arming & fitting of English Ships of War - Brian Lavery.
The position of the ‘Crocks’ (I think it should read Cocks) is close to the position indicated on the Sphinx stove.
 
I decided to add the  cocks to give a little more interest to the aft end rather than just two holes.

6238

6239

6240
I think that’s enough for a stove of this scale given the views that will be available even for the more open aspect of my build.
Time to move on.
 
B.E.
21/03/22

 
 

Post One Hundred
 
The ships stove
I have been relishing making up this little beauty and decided to do it at this point as I will soon be moving onto the Foc’sle.

6186(2)
The basic carcase is of Pearwood and it slots together perfectly, taking barely any time at all to assemble.
Most of the carcase is encased with brass etched panels which I have chemically blackened, but I can see potential problems in avoiding marring the finish during the fitting process using ca.
There are also separate Brass fittings which may prove an easier option for chemical blackening.
 Either way if it fails, the blackening will provide a key for painting.
As always the treatment of brass etch starts with a thoro’ cleaning, washing, a rub with fine wire wool, acid bath, neutralising fluid, an acetone dip and onto the blackening agent.

6182
Initially the recesses that form the rivets stubbornly refused to blacken,  but a clearing with a micro drill eventually cured the issue.
The top of the stove is  unplated apart from the lids and the Flue.

6193(3)
These areas were painted black before applying the plate, and were treated with a weathering powder.
The blackened plate is then glued into place using a smear of ca.

6197(2)
The brass etch Flue is a fold and meet assembly and I took the precaution to silver solder the join before blackening.
 
The Chain Pulley
The blurb indicates that 1mm rod be used to connect the pulley wheels and chain pulley but I think this is incorrect.
The holes in the spit support crane would need drilling out to take a 1mm rod, as would the small pulley and chain wheels, a far more tricky task.

6199
The provided 0.8mm rod fits perfectly, and you won’t risk distorting the delicate drive chain.
The 0.8mm rod also looks better for scale.
 
The completed stove.

6206
I don’t know what the two holes are for in the back plate. I did wonder if the plate is the wrong way up and they were intended to be the drain cocks for the boiler, but even that wouldn’t look right.
 
One omission that I think could be provided with the kit are the fire grating bars that sit across the open front of the stove behind the spit support cranes. The supports for these are  perfect for the brass etch treatment.
However, the Stove is already finely detailed much of which won’t ultimately be seen in the standard build of the kit.

6215(2)
Even so I decided to add the  fire grate bars knocked up from some 0.6mm wire and bits of etch left over from earlier builds.

6220
The grate bars in place with the spit drip tray that I also decided to add.

6221
The connector for the still was added to the aft top plate.

6227
The assembly in place onboard.

6226
The stove certainly looks the part sitting on the deck.

6232
There are a couple of other minor enhancements that I could make to the stove, lifting ring bolts, and a rail along the top, but for the present my enthusiasm is expended.
 
B.E.
20/03/22

Post Ninety-nine
 
Quarterdeck planking completed
From the outset of this build my intention was to show as much of the Upper deck detail as is practical and with the completion of the minimal Quarterdeck planking, bar the fettlin' I think I have achieved this.

6176(2)

6173
I have followed the line of the False deck  that I had cut away which means that the two inner strakes of necessity have to be fayed into the inner plank.

6180
Altho’ not entirely authentic, this is a cut-away and I like the impression of curvature that the effect gives. This would also have applied with full planks but with a much reduced opening over the Great Cabin.

6172
The alternatives would be to step the two inner planks, more authentic, but perhaps not so pleasing on the eye, or remove them altogether.
I will ponder on that awhile, I suppose it goes against the grain in terms of deck planking to bring anything to a point.
 
In the meantime I have to make up a few more guns, and take a look at the Foc’sle.
 
B.E.
18/03/22
 

Post Ninety-eight
 
Quarter-deck planking continued.
The completed ladderway/coaming set is glued to the false deck prior to planking.

6158
I start to planking down the centre line and for the shaped planks around the  ladderway/gratings a pattern is made using 18mm Tamiya tape.

6160(2)
The shaped deck plank.

6163
It took a couple of goes to get a pattern to correctly fit on the model.

6165
The completed centre line planking, but without any fettlin’.
It will need scraping and a coat of flat varnish.
 

6170

6171
The coamings require re- painting, got a little marred during planking, but I think the ‘round-up’ modification gives a more authentic look.

6168
 
I now need to figure out the planking along the margins.
 
B.E.
17/03/22
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Post Ninety-seven
 
Laying down the Quarter deck

6134

6133
The Lodging knees are completed but the forward ones will not be seen below the deck.
 
It is time to cover up a lot of the work I have done and add the the ‘false’ Quarter deck ready for planking.

6138
I brushed slightly diluted pva on the underside of the deck; it took all of my available weights to clamp it down.
Even so with such a large area to glue the deck failed to grab in one or two edge spots and  additional glue had to  be applied beneath the deck using a scalpel blade.
I was a concerned not to get glue on the exposed beams.
 
Tiller lines

6135
I had earlier in the build  rigged the tiller lines below the upper deck and these are fed thro’ the QD at time of fitting.
Not even sure at this point whether I will rig the lines, but I have given myself the option. If I do, I will probably splice the forward port line to the aft s/b line, and pull it taut  with the splice below decks.
 
Using the False deck option.
There are implications beyond using your own planking with this option.
Both the false deck and the printed deck are of the same 0.8mm thickness, so with the addition of, in my case 0.6mm thick planking, the bulwark patterns  which are shown as fitting on top of the planking will be raised.
I fitted the inner bulwark patterns, including the facing skins in advance of planking.

6142
These inner bulwarks stand some 4mm above the outer bulwarks at the transom which surprised me a little, as it is a fair bit to sand off level with the outer hull.
 
Ladderway and Gratings
I think these warrant a little fettlin’ to  provide a  slight round up both to the ladderway head ledges and the  head ledges to the grating set.

6145(2)
This was done by the addition of  small section Pear and Box wood sanded to shape.
The three gratings were soaked and given a matching round up.
The Capstan partners were also planked.
 
With the False deck secured I can  begin to add the decking.
As with the Upper deck I am using  Boxwood strip of varying widths  but all of 0.6mm thickness.
For the Waterway/margin planks I use 4.5mm planking with scarph joints scribed in. It is also used to cover what would be the QD Transom beam, and QD breast beam.

6151
At this point the  inner bulwarks have been painted red, prior to planking, and the perimeter planking  glued into place.

6153
The grating set/Ladderway will be painted before gluing into place before planking.
 
Toprope scuttles
At the forward end of the deck either side of the Ladderway can be seen the carlings that form the Toprope scuttles.

6152
On my build they will be left as is, but for those wishing to add a degree of authenticity to their build, the raised coamings and gratings as shown in the kit are rather fanciful.
The scuttle lids were more likely solid with small lifting rings, and were flush with the decking. The scuttles were used primarily as access for the tackle used in raising and lowering the Topmasts.
I performed the same modification on my Pegasus build.

6149
I will now work to complete the minimal planking of the Quarter deck.
 
B.E.
15/03/22
 
 

Post Ninety-six
 
Completing the Quarterdeck beams
 
Seven beams remain to be fitted to support the Quarter deck, plus their associated Hanging and Lodging knees .
I start where I left off moving aft to fore.
Before I fit the beam I add the hanging knees where required. In this area the knees are painted red.
 
With the knees in place the beam is temporarily fitted to check the position, after which it is glued into place.
As each knee is fitted any glue excess on the bulwarks is removed using a small brush dipped in water.

06112
The Hanging knees in place.

06117
With the beams in place the Carlings are trial fitted, these are heavy with char which will all need cleaning off.

06119
False tops will be added to the knees to run flush with the beam tops and meet the lodging knees.
The Carlings all slot perfectly into place, a testimony to Chris’s design and production skills.

06128
The Carlings  are cleaned up and painted red on their facings to match the beams.

06127
I really like the look it’s almost a shame to add planks.

06121
The false deck is tweaked a little to correlate with the beams and Carlings.

06122
Always a good idea to check the Mizen and Capstan slot properly into place.

06124
There are still the lodging knees to fit but less of these will be seen as the planked area broadens towards the break of the Quarter deck.
 
B.E.
12/03/22
 
 

Post One Hundred and Nineteen
 
Fun with volutes.
With the  rails completed between the  Foc’sle and Qtr Deck I turn my attention to the volutes either end.
Not too impressed with my own  fixing of these decorative features, they look like a lot of fettlin’ is required, all down to me no doubt despite Chris’s best efforts.
Made up of four laminations fitted at differing times I clearly failed to get the alignment spot on.
Fortunately these are to be painted which at least allows rectification to be made with some extra work.

6826
The Foc’sle  volutes are easier to fettle than those of the Q’deck.

6827
Filling along this Quarterdeck section was also required to produce a smooth surface matching the Gunwale strips, the aim is to mask the lamination lines.

6819
I used  Winsor and Newton modelling paste to fill any gaps and beef up the volutes.

6848

6843

6842
With that done I can fix the Q’deck gunwales in place. As with those of the Foc’sle  I kept the inner edge flush with the bulwark and  applied a slight round to the outer edge.

6836
There is a lot of re-touching of the paintwork not only of the Gunwales but the inner bulwarks and Topsides.
 

6850
The transom knees are now fitted having applied a coat of red to the Transom, and the gluing surface then scraped away.

6837
I found these knees the very devil to fit; even with chamfering the fit was poor and I found it necessary to fill the join along the Transom edge.

6851(2)
The Breast rails beckon.
 
 
B.E.
15/05/22
 

Following on from my last post where I decided my foremast shrouds (take 2) were still not up to the required standard I had a light bulb moment when having the tea break. I recalled that @DelF used a similar jig to mine but his had two sets of pins set in a piece of wood. The top pair were used to hold the shroud deadeye and the lower pair was located in the channel deadeye.
 
It was a simple task for me to add a second set of pins to my jig. I used the same method as detailed in my post for adding deadeyes to shrouds. I added an extra step after adding the deadeye to the shroud loop where I simply inverted the jig and then adjusted the position in the shroud line so the deadeye would located on the two pins.
 
In the first two photos below the deadeye has been adjusted and is now located on the top jig two pins.


With reference to the next photo the first two shroud lines have been set, the next shroud pair are currently work in progress, the lanyards have been adjusted and I'm much happy with how the shroud deadeyes look. They are still far from perfect but they are so much better than my previous two attempts. I might dye the top two shroud seizing's with some black Indian ink
 

looking good B.E.