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LFrankCPA

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Everything posted by LFrankCPA

  1. Of course....sorry, I had not thought that far ahead. Making the first one usually presents no problem....it's making the next 74 to match it that's a bear...... Larry
  2. Nils, I'm surprised you are looking for portholes. Couldn't you just chose a brass rod of appropriate size, heat the end and turn it over? With your metal working skills, that seems like an easy route to take. Larry
  3. I just ordered Bismarch by Revell at 1/350. I will follow your build with interest. What wooden deck product are you using??? Larry
  4. What a coincidence; I just ordered Bismarck at 1/350 scale. As you said, there are a tremendous number of after market add on's at this scale. I look forward to your progress. Larry
  5. Just to let you guys know that I have not forgotten about your offers to help. But things have changed. By chance I ran into an offer on eBay for Alabama by Revell at 1/96. I got her and she arrived today. Not quite sure what I will do with her construction, but that will work out.... Thanks again for your offers of help and, if I may, another great example of the type of people on this site. Larry
  6. Hi Nils, Yes the spoke shave is similar to a plane. However, IMO, it's much more efficient. With cross grain you can just turn the s/s around and push it the other way; or you can skew the blade angle, say 45 degrees; take a little or a lot of wood off. The s/s actually 'shaves' off the wood, smooth cut. Once you get the hang of it you do not need to sand. I must have a dozen of them, different sizes and bottom shapes. Come to think of it, it's more like scraping...maybe... What ever you decide to do, please don't stop. Larry
  7. Nils, May I offer a suggestion; instead of sanding the hull, why not try a spoke shave. It would save a lot of time and dust.... That is the way I fair all my planking. Beautiful ship, thanks for sharing with us. Larry
  8. I cut all wood pieces by hand and hardly ever use a knife or sandpaper. I would rather use a scraper. Now scraping can also mean planing or using a spoke shave; as well as a single edge razor blade. It's much easier to level a surface with a scraper than with sandpaper.... Hope this helps, Larry
  9. Actually it's not an ironclad. She's a three mast fully rigged ship, with steam power and a pull away prop system. She also had one of the first breach loading rifle guns on deck with a rail system for movement. That is what I like about her. She put an explosive round into Kersearge's stern area that failed to explode. If it had, history might have been different. Larry
  10. Thanks guys for the offers to help. I have downloaded the program and the PDF of the manual. Give me a little time to play around with it. Before I retired, I used to install computerized accounting systems, so we will see how much of the tech stuff I can remember. Thanks again, Larry
  11. What I want to do is to scan in a set of plans I have for the CSS Alabama. Use 'some' program to adjust the image to my scale; slice it up for 'room an space'; and print out the individual frame patterns. I am sure this is nothing new and probably what most people would want to do. Can you tell me if DelftShip can get me somewhat close to that????? Thanks, Larry
  12. I think Buck nailed it....sorry for the pun; but just had to do it. Larry
  13. Nils, I know this is way off topic; but please indulge me for a moment. One of my other interests is "physical science" and I noticed in your ship title something familiar 'der Grosse'. Do you know if there is any relationship to the name of the Director of the Hayden Planetarium in NYC, Dr. Neil De Grass Tyson???? Again, I apologize for being way off target; but I just had to ask.. Thanks, Larry
  14. This is were I work. You will notice that it is the starboard, bow side of my bed. I can pull my chair up to the corner, put one stub on either side and lock myself down. It's relative comfortable and stable.
  15. I think I have over come the 'too large' issue with the pics. I took the pics with my camera, then emailed them to myself at a smaller size. It works, kinda clumsy, still needs work. But for now, at least, we can get some pics.... More to follow.... Larry
  16. About Me; I have been modeling for over 30 years. My other hobby is HO model railroading. At time when I had the space, I was into railroading, when I did not have the space, I built ships. This is my second non-kit built ship; actually the second iteration of this ship. The first attempt was not good; so I started over. This time is much better. I am disabled; I have no legs. The first was amputated several years ago and the second, a couple of weeks after the first. I tell you this, not for any other reason, other than to let you know I do things differently. Mostly as a result of my disability. For instance, I do not use power tools, except the occasional Dremel. I live alone and am housebound; I have been told that my social skills have been slipping lately. I guess I would rather model than talk; please don't take this personally. About my Ship; She is a work of art; and as such, I will construct her in the most pleasing way possible. Of secondary importance is the historical accuracy; firstly the Hahn plans and timbering set and secondly other reference materials at my disposal. I have a substantial personal library and, of course, access to this site and other internet locations. She is and will be all natural; no paints or stains. She is built by hand, every piece cut, shaped, and glued by me by hand. I purchase slab wood to the thickness needed, cut it slightly proud, and plane it to final size. The only exception to date are some gratings from left over kit parts. Her framing and superstructure are of Alder, with the darker pieces of Walnut. The red furniture is built from Redheart and the yellow wood is Yellowheart, Boxwood, or Longhi. And of course the black is Ebony. As is typical, her port side will be fully planked, but her starboard side has windows to her soul. She will be fully rigged, but with only some of the sails shipped. Officially I laid her keel on October 1, 2014; she is aging gracefully. Apparently my pic files are too large to attach. I'll have to work on that
  17. For me several thing come into play here; consistency; as said before, if you are going to include items at 6", include them all. be consistent, right or wrong...Consider the scale and set the tolerances; within 1 inch of actual???....Reduce the detail on items that will not been seen, don't reduce the quality of work.... It is a work of art and you are the artist, if in doubt, sleep on it, go watch TV, then come back with a clear head..... I'll also add, that what was acceptable, may be 10 years ago, is not acceptable today. As your skills improve and grow, step out and try new things...work them into your regular build process. Larry
  18. And here I always thought Ramin was Italian for 'white wood'....
  19. I just received the item pictured above. I ordered it on line on the 14th of April and received it today; less than 10 days from Poland. The site referenced above could not help me and refered me directly to the manufacture's site. I was able to select English language and USD. Here is the link. http://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/contact-us/ I tried to find something wrong with the item so as to have something to report to the group; I could find nothing..... even the English transulation of the instructions were great. Great products, fast service; give it a try. Hope this is of help to someone. Larry
  20. I wanted to get your opinion on the holding power of PVA glue after varnishing....If I varnish the inside of my ship, scrape off the varnish, and glue over it...PVA glue should hold; right????? Thanks in advance, Larry
  21. I have one; two actually. Quite by accident, I discovered I could cut 1/16" Ebony by scoring one side several times, then the other. After both sides are scored, just snap apart. I also use mine to score lines to mark for cuts. The store bought one works okay, but yours looks as good as it probably cuts. Thanks for sharing. Larry
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