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dcicero

NRG Member
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About dcicero

  • Birthday 10/21/1964

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    Male
  • Location
    Aurora, IL

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    dan_cicero@sbcglobal.net

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  1. Can't speak authoritatively on the reason for the bulwark height, but there's probably a good bit of psychological value in being able to get down behind something, regardless of its actual ability to provide protection. As you say, it was the chain armor that made the difference when Kearsarge battled Alabama. Dan
  2. Quick update on what has kind of turned into a project. (I was just interested in this before, but now things are moving along.) First, Interlibrary Loan was able to get me a copy of the Roland Bockius book. Wow. Just ... wow. Thanks for that recommendation! It is incredibly detailed (and in German, which means I can't read it) and it includes seven sheets of plans. I took those over to my local copy shop and made myself a set of plans. (By the way, I know the University of Chicago -- which is very close to me -- has a copy, but the copy I got was from Emory University, which is in Atlanta, GA, quite a long way from me. Hard to understand how these things work, but just glad it did.) And, second, I heard back from EGEA about the model. The price is 96.99 Euros (the kit plus shipping from Germany to the US) which is $104 today, not unreasonable at all. Since they don't seem to take any kind of electronic transfer like Zelle or PayPal or Venmo, I'll have to find some other way to do it, but that shouldn't be too hard to do.
  3. Thank you so much for that reference from the University of Chicago! The university is easy to get to from where I live. (It's near the Museum of Science and Industry too, where you can see the U-505. I never miss an opportunity to do that.) I'll see if I can get it through inter-library loan. My local library is great about getting books like that and, if there are plans for the boats, that might be all I need. And getting the kit to use the parts are templates is also a good idea. The kit is at 1:20 scale, which makes a model about 30 inches long. That's a big model. I think I would prefer one at something like 1:48, so plans are the way to go and templates would be useful too because they could be scaled and reproduced. Thanks to everyone for responding! I did a presentation at my local ship model club last week about these boats, their use and the Danubian Limes they protected. I've attached a copy for anyone interested. Dan Roman Boats on the Danube.pdf
  4. Thanks! I sent an email off to Herr Doktor Dreyer and he answered me. They only sell the kit, not the plans. He didn't give me any details. I suspect you're right and the kit is very basic. I might still order one to see what shows up. I'd really rather have a good set of plans because I would never build such a model from plywood. Dan
  5. This might be a long shot, but has anyone bought this model of the Fridericiana Alexandrina Navis, a reconstructed 1st century Roman boat used on the Danube River? The Friedrich-Alexander-Universität Erlangen-Nürnberg built and sailed this boat in 2016 and they now sell a kit of it: Kit - Roman boat of the FAU Erlangen-Nürnberg (fau-shop.de) I'd prefer to just get the plans and any other documentation that comes with the kit as the kit materials appear to be plywood and I wouldn't build a model from that. Just thought I would check here to see if anyone's got any experience with this. The subject is very interesting! Dan
  6. To quote Zulu... Hook - "A spot of medicinal brandy would set me up, sir." Reynolds - "Brandy! Brandy is for heroes, Mr. Hook!" Dan
  7. Interesting subject, I must say. I saw the James Caird in Sydney many years ago where it was on loan from England. It would make an interesting model. Too bad it's this company making the kit. Dan
  8. Re: " Anyone else have hairspray in their toolbox?" I use hairspray on rope coils to make them lay like I want them and stay that way. Works great. Could I ask what kind of putty you use for the sea? How do you keep it from off-gassing and fogging up the inside of the bottle? Dan
  9. Wonderful work. What a great model! Just a quick question. It doesn't seem like you did a lot of sanding on the inside of the canoe. Is that the case? It seems like it would be hard to sand with all those concave surfaces. Dan
  10. It would be hard to find another writer who contributed more to our understanding of naval architecture than Chappelle, particularly with regard to small, regional sailing craft, but I've read his books. "Dry" doesn't begin to describe them. I can't imagine reading them for pleasure. I've referenced them many, many times and used the drawings in them as references. There's a ton of information there, certainly, but I wouldn't even call his writing style academic. There are plenty of serious academics who write in an engaging style. Chappelle isn't one of them, even when compared to other writers of his time. I don't think -- to get back on topic -- he's particularly controversial. I think his essay on "models that should not be built" just puts forth an argument, well supported. I don't necessarily agree with it -- if you want a model of USS Constitution, knock yourself out -- but he wrote it from a position of great knowledge, skill and experience. Got to admire that. He's worth reading.
  11. Just curious what kind of surface prep you did on the companionway before applying the tung oil. I've always liked the look of that finish and yours looks great! Dan
  12. Very nicely done model, Reece. And on that whole "build it, tear it apart, do it again" thing? I've just learned to accept that that's part of ship modeling. I look at it this way. I build every model twice ... at the same time! Dan
  13. I’ve seen a lot of really fine masts on 1/700 steel navy warships, but I’ve not been able to find any guidance on how to actually make them Anyone got a suggestion? Dan
  14. Thanks, Toni, That explains a lot. I installed another strake yesterday, but it was looking a little weird too. I suspect it has more to do with the shape of the strake below it than anything else, so I removed it, along with the plank just above the broad strake that you pointed out. Only a little bit of splitting on those planks when I removed them, so I can probably use them for templates for new ones. And here's what it looks like now. How do you usually deal with the tops of the planks when you find a defect? Do you carve them in place? Or do you remove them and and just make another? Making each of these planks is a time-consuming process (at least the way I'm doing it) and it seems that, no matter how carefully it's done, defects appear when the plank is actually glued in place. Is there any way to adjust them in place? I know I can't add any wood to a plank that's been carved too aggressively, but it seems like I can remove wood from one that needs trimming. Dan
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