dcicero

It's been almost nine months since I posted anything to this build log.  Frankly, I was so frustrated with this project that I put it aside.  I've since finished another model and decided to take another look at the half hull project.
 
It hasn't gotten better with age.  Just look at this thing...
 

 
This was my second attempt!
 
And it wasn't like it was just the wale that needed work.  The object here is to create a "pleasing run of planking."  I hadn't created that.  I'd created a chaotic mess.
 

 

 
Kinks that I doubted I could work out around the bow.  Uneven plank widths in the stern.  Wavy lines.  I was really discouraged and just didn't want to put more work into something that was clearly not going turn into something of which I might be proud.
 
So I trashed it.
 

 
Well, not completely.
 

 
I just removed all the planking.  I'd used white glue, so a little water softened up the joints.  Then I removed any excess glue with a damp cloth.  Then I started fairing the hull again, being even more meticulous about the bow and stern.
 
I found that I'd sanded a little too much off the aft frames.  The instructions say not to do this and I tried to follow them, but I couldn't figure it out.  Turns out, the stern is a lot more boxy than I thought it was.  Coming to that conclusion showed me where my errors were and I corrected them.  The forward-most frame was a little too short, so I extended it.  I removed the spacers so I could properly mark the wales without going through all kinds of gyrations with my square.  I copied a technique shown in one of the other build logs where the measurements are punched into the frames.  One of the problems I had was with smudged pencil marks, particularly in the bow.  This technique solves the problem.
 

 

 

 
I added a little more filler in the stern to give a better gluing surface for the stealer.
 
I'd run out of planking material building what I'd already built, so I went off to Hobby Lobby to get more 1/32" planking material.
 
I also re-read Planking the Built-Up Ship Model.
 
I think, for this re-build, I'm going to use some of the techniques described in that book, particularly with regard to laying out the planking.  I have a pair of proportional dividers, not the expensive ones used by draftsmen of old, but inexpensive ones uses by artists, with set proportions.  I think that's going to make laying out the runs of planks easier and more accurate.
 
So I'm back in the saddle again, as the old cowboy song says.  The frame is fair.  The wale is installed.  Off once again to the garboard strake.
 
 
Dan

It's been almost nine months since I posted anything to this build log.  Frankly, I was so frustrated with this project that I put it aside.  I've since finished another model and decided to take another look at the half hull project.
 
It hasn't gotten better with age.  Just look at this thing...
 

 
This was my second attempt!
 
And it wasn't like it was just the wale that needed work.  The object here is to create a "pleasing run of planking."  I hadn't created that.  I'd created a chaotic mess.
 

 

 
Kinks that I doubted I could work out around the bow.  Uneven plank widths in the stern.  Wavy lines.  I was really discouraged and just didn't want to put more work into something that was clearly not going turn into something of which I might be proud.
 
So I trashed it.
 

 
Well, not completely.
 

 
I just removed all the planking.  I'd used white glue, so a little water softened up the joints.  Then I removed any excess glue with a damp cloth.  Then I started fairing the hull again, being even more meticulous about the bow and stern.
 
I found that I'd sanded a little too much off the aft frames.  The instructions say not to do this and I tried to follow them, but I couldn't figure it out.  Turns out, the stern is a lot more boxy than I thought it was.  Coming to that conclusion showed me where my errors were and I corrected them.  The forward-most frame was a little too short, so I extended it.  I removed the spacers so I could properly mark the wales without going through all kinds of gyrations with my square.  I copied a technique shown in one of the other build logs where the measurements are punched into the frames.  One of the problems I had was with smudged pencil marks, particularly in the bow.  This technique solves the problem.
 

 

 

 
I added a little more filler in the stern to give a better gluing surface for the stealer.
 
I'd run out of planking material building what I'd already built, so I went off to Hobby Lobby to get more 1/32" planking material.
 
I also re-read Planking the Built-Up Ship Model.
 
I think, for this re-build, I'm going to use some of the techniques described in that book, particularly with regard to laying out the planking.  I have a pair of proportional dividers, not the expensive ones used by draftsmen of old, but inexpensive ones uses by artists, with set proportions.  I think that's going to make laying out the runs of planks easier and more accurate.
 
So I'm back in the saddle again, as the old cowboy song says.  The frame is fair.  The wale is installed.  Off once again to the garboard strake.
 
 
Dan

It's been almost nine months since I posted anything to this build log.  Frankly, I was so frustrated with this project that I put it aside.  I've since finished another model and decided to take another look at the half hull project.
 
It hasn't gotten better with age.  Just look at this thing...
 

 
This was my second attempt!
 
And it wasn't like it was just the wale that needed work.  The object here is to create a "pleasing run of planking."  I hadn't created that.  I'd created a chaotic mess.
 

 

 
Kinks that I doubted I could work out around the bow.  Uneven plank widths in the stern.  Wavy lines.  I was really discouraged and just didn't want to put more work into something that was clearly not going turn into something of which I might be proud.
 
So I trashed it.
 

 
Well, not completely.
 

 
I just removed all the planking.  I'd used white glue, so a little water softened up the joints.  Then I removed any excess glue with a damp cloth.  Then I started fairing the hull again, being even more meticulous about the bow and stern.
 
I found that I'd sanded a little too much off the aft frames.  The instructions say not to do this and I tried to follow them, but I couldn't figure it out.  Turns out, the stern is a lot more boxy than I thought it was.  Coming to that conclusion showed me where my errors were and I corrected them.  The forward-most frame was a little too short, so I extended it.  I removed the spacers so I could properly mark the wales without going through all kinds of gyrations with my square.  I copied a technique shown in one of the other build logs where the measurements are punched into the frames.  One of the problems I had was with smudged pencil marks, particularly in the bow.  This technique solves the problem.
 

 

 

 
I added a little more filler in the stern to give a better gluing surface for the stealer.
 
I'd run out of planking material building what I'd already built, so I went off to Hobby Lobby to get more 1/32" planking material.
 
I also re-read Planking the Built-Up Ship Model.
 
I think, for this re-build, I'm going to use some of the techniques described in that book, particularly with regard to laying out the planking.  I have a pair of proportional dividers, not the expensive ones used by draftsmen of old, but inexpensive ones uses by artists, with set proportions.  I think that's going to make laying out the runs of planks easier and more accurate.
 
So I'm back in the saddle again, as the old cowboy song says.  The frame is fair.  The wale is installed.  Off once again to the garboard strake.
 
 
Dan

It's been almost nine months since I posted anything to this build log.  Frankly, I was so frustrated with this project that I put it aside.  I've since finished another model and decided to take another look at the half hull project.
 
It hasn't gotten better with age.  Just look at this thing...
 

 
This was my second attempt!
 
And it wasn't like it was just the wale that needed work.  The object here is to create a "pleasing run of planking."  I hadn't created that.  I'd created a chaotic mess.
 

 

 
Kinks that I doubted I could work out around the bow.  Uneven plank widths in the stern.  Wavy lines.  I was really discouraged and just didn't want to put more work into something that was clearly not going turn into something of which I might be proud.
 
So I trashed it.
 

 
Well, not completely.
 

 
I just removed all the planking.  I'd used white glue, so a little water softened up the joints.  Then I removed any excess glue with a damp cloth.  Then I started fairing the hull again, being even more meticulous about the bow and stern.
 
I found that I'd sanded a little too much off the aft frames.  The instructions say not to do this and I tried to follow them, but I couldn't figure it out.  Turns out, the stern is a lot more boxy than I thought it was.  Coming to that conclusion showed me where my errors were and I corrected them.  The forward-most frame was a little too short, so I extended it.  I removed the spacers so I could properly mark the wales without going through all kinds of gyrations with my square.  I copied a technique shown in one of the other build logs where the measurements are punched into the frames.  One of the problems I had was with smudged pencil marks, particularly in the bow.  This technique solves the problem.
 

 

 

 
I added a little more filler in the stern to give a better gluing surface for the stealer.
 
I'd run out of planking material building what I'd already built, so I went off to Hobby Lobby to get more 1/32" planking material.
 
I also re-read Planking the Built-Up Ship Model.
 
I think, for this re-build, I'm going to use some of the techniques described in that book, particularly with regard to laying out the planking.  I have a pair of proportional dividers, not the expensive ones used by draftsmen of old, but inexpensive ones uses by artists, with set proportions.  I think that's going to make laying out the runs of planks easier and more accurate.
 
So I'm back in the saddle again, as the old cowboy song says.  The frame is fair.  The wale is installed.  Off once again to the garboard strake.
 
 
Dan

The next steps are to glue in the transom seat, sand the outer edges of the transom and the transom seat to match each other and then line up the aft edge of the hull sides with the aft edge of the assembled transom and glue everything together.
 
This is probably a good place to note that I sanded every piece before I install it, just to make sure I don’t get into a position where I can’t reach something later in the construction.  I used 120, 180 and 600 grits.
 
Next, the stem piece is installed (a triangular piece that provides a gluing surface for the sides).  The midships and forward seats are glued to one side and then the two sides of the hull are brought together and glued.  Then the chines are fitted inside the hull.
 
This is the first slightly challenging operation.  The chines are made from relatively thick stock and do not bend easily.  I recommend wetting the chines, fitting them inside the hull and clamping them as shown in the photo.  Wetting the chines makes them more flexible and will put less stress on the hull structure when installed.
 
Installing the hull bottom is simple enough, but a little time needs to be spent ensuring proper alignment.  The bottom is large enough to have overhang all the way around the hull, but the chines can distort the hull shape, so spend some time ensuring the hull is straight and true.  Use the centerboard trunk as a reference and make sure the distance from the centerboard trunk to the chines are equal on both sides.  One other thing:  once the bottom is installed, painting the bottom of the seats or the area aft under the aft seat will be impossible.  I painted those areas before installing the bottom.
 
The model, of course, doesn’t fit together like a jigsaw puzzle.  There will be gaps between the parts, in the slots where the tabs are fitted and around the edges of the after seat and transom.  I used Elmer’s Wood Filler, thinned with a little water, to fill all those gaps.

I finally got it mounted! Couple of screws in the plate and it's ready for display!
 

How do you remove underbleed like that?  I've messed this up so many times, I find ways to avoid situation where it might happen.
 
 
Dan
 

The best way to remove it is not to get it...  I don't get it very often because I double or triple mask, first with pin striping tape (1/16' or 1/8"), then an overlap of 1/4" tape, then another overlap with low tack painter's tape (and paper if it's a large surface.  Still, stuff happens sometimes.  The underbleed I normally get is between the hull and a bright finished deck.  In most cases, I use a very sharp #11 blade and cut alongside any objects against which the underbleed rests.  This gives a nice sharp edge to end against when scraping.  Then, depending on the size of the area around the paint, I scrape with the grain towards the sharp edge using a variety of chisel blades and a razor blade.  You need a gentle touch and to keep the blade vertical.  If it's paint on paint, now you have a definite problem.  If it's gloss paint and the base coat is well cured, you can use a Q tip dipped in a mild thinner and lightly swab aqay the underbled color.  Sometimes you can use automotive polishing compound and a soft cloth on some paints, as well.  In all probability, with a paint on paint problem, you're probably going to have to remask and repaint.  FAIR WARNING:  I seldom brush paint any large surface.  Generally, I use an airbrush and sometimes a rattle can.  Consequently, I'm not sure how well this would work with a brushed surface.  
 
    

How do you remove underbleed like that?  I've messed this up so many times, I find ways to avoid situation where it might happen.
 
 
Dan
 

How do you remove underbleed like that?  I've messed this up so many times, I find ways to avoid situation where it might happen.
 
 
Dan
 

One of the initial challenges I came across in the early stages was the prominent anchor bills.  They are angular and have some difficult angles where the wedge shape meets the vertical walls.  I tried carving them into the hull, but wasn't satisfied with the outcome, as they weren't exactly the same.  So, I decided to cut a channel across the hull and laser-cut inserts that ensure consistency - worked much better.  There are two pairs of lifts that allow the builder some adjustment capability incase he/she didn't shape the hull quite to specs...🙄  The inserts are separate, as well, so the angle can be shaped before they are inserted.  Once the basic assembly is complete, the hull is filled and finish-sanded to shape.  A laser-cut deck of glued-up decking will be fitted, so the lamination does not affect the appearance.
 
These are the inserts, before (left) and after (right) shaping.

 
Lasered lifts for the anchor bills.

 
This is what it looks like much later in the process.

Thanks, everyone!
 
Nic, I will definitely be taking you up on your offer.  I just have to figure out what kit I want to build.  That's a tough choice.
 
Like Kurt said, the model did win a Gold Award in the Wisconsin Maritime Museum Annual Model Ships and Boats Contest, which was really a thrill.  I thoroughly enjoyed building this model and did it to 1) relieve my COVID fatigue and 2) learn how to make proper sails.  Mission Accomplished, I think, on those two points.
 
I appreciate the comments about the sawhorses.  Necessity is the mother of invention and I thought a good long time about how to best display the model.  Glad you liked the result.
 
 
 
Dan
 

Thanks, everyone!
 
Nic, I will definitely be taking you up on your offer.  I just have to figure out what kit I want to build.  That's a tough choice.
 
Like Kurt said, the model did win a Gold Award in the Wisconsin Maritime Museum Annual Model Ships and Boats Contest, which was really a thrill.  I thoroughly enjoyed building this model and did it to 1) relieve my COVID fatigue and 2) learn how to make proper sails.  Mission Accomplished, I think, on those two points.
 
I appreciate the comments about the sawhorses.  Necessity is the mother of invention and I thought a good long time about how to best display the model.  Glad you liked the result.
 
 
 
Dan
 

To finish the model off, I decided I needed I needed a boat license.  The current Wisconsin boat license stickers are dark blue, so they would have blended in too much with the color of the boat.  (I live in Illinois but grew up in Wisconsin.  I just can’t get it out of my system.)  For no particular reason, I looked on eBay for a Wisconsin boat license and, sure enough, someone was selling a 1996 sticker.  I snagged the image, scaled it to the proper size (3”) and, along with some random numbers and my initials, I applied them to the hull.  This license complies with the Wisconsin DNR’s rules!
 

 
The final details are the drain plugs.  Everyone knows, after a long day on the lake, you’ve got the drain the water out of the boat.  I used my small punch and die set to punch out some small diameter (1” in scale) disks that I glued together with CA and then tapped a little depression in to simulate the socket for the wrench to pull out the drain plug.
 
I’ve very happy with how this model turned out.  The kit itself went together wonderfully and it offers lots of opportunities to improve, scratchbuild and make unique.  Just yesterday, we learned that we can take our masks off (with some caveats) which is a much better way to cure COVID fatigue, but, in a pinch, I’d recommend this kit.
 
I’ve entered the model in the 2021 Wisconsin Maritime Museum Model Boat Show and Contest.  The contest is virtual this year.  Judging is, as I understand it, completed, but I won’t know until tomorrow night how I did.  Here are some pictures of the finished model.

That's as far as I have gotten so far.  I'm trying to figure out where to install the stealer and how big it should be.  I used a compass to mark the top 4 plank course and the middle 4 plank course to see the where they deviate. 
 
 

To make the oars, I used a technique I learned from my friend Bob Filipowski.  He turns oars and other cylindrical parts like masts and yards in a drill press.  I started out turning these parts in a lathe, but I found that, because of the small diameter of these parts and their tendency to flex in the lathe when worked, they became oval in cross section.  That doesn’t happen in a drill press.  I used Bob’s technique exclusively now.
 
I chucked the blanks in the drill press and held the other end in a block of scrap wood with a hole of the proper diameter drilled in it.  This keeps the “loose” end of the oar from flying away and breaking.
 

 

 

The pieces are removed from the basswood sheet with a hobby knife.  I used white glue for everything in this project.  It’s inexpensive, easy to obtain, cleans up with water and dries quickly.  I usually use a little piece of plate glass to mix paints, adhesives and as a stable, flat surface on which to align things.  I always apply glue with a small paint brush to control how much I apply.
 
I use small plastic clamps from Harbor Freight Tools for a lot of tasks like this.  They’re very inexpensive, come in packs of six and don’t create a lot of pressure that can distort delicate parts.
 
The transom seat knee is the first part that requires a little modification.  The slot is wider than the knee, so it needs to be shimmed.  I used a business card for this, but any piece of paper will work, just enough so the part fits in the slot and can be oriented perpendicular to the transom.
 
Without an inspection mirror, it’s impossible to see that transom seat knee on the finished model, so some people might wonder why anyone would even bother shimming it and making it exactly perpendicular.  It’s just me.  I build for myself.  If I didn’t do the job properly, every time I looked at the model, I’d see those defects.

In 2018, I bought three Bluejacket Skiff kits.  The kids’ art teacher had suggested I might teach a model boat building class for her students.  Nothing ever came of that and the kits went into my stash.
 
I was feeling some COVID fatigue a few months ago and, wanting to work on something that wasn’t going to take a great deal of mental energy the skiff came out of the stash and onto the workbench.
 
Here’s the finished model.

To finish the model off, I decided I needed I needed a boat license.  The current Wisconsin boat license stickers are dark blue, so they would have blended in too much with the color of the boat.  (I live in Illinois but grew up in Wisconsin.  I just can’t get it out of my system.)  For no particular reason, I looked on eBay for a Wisconsin boat license and, sure enough, someone was selling a 1996 sticker.  I snagged the image, scaled it to the proper size (3”) and, along with some random numbers and my initials, I applied them to the hull.  This license complies with the Wisconsin DNR’s rules!
 

 
The final details are the drain plugs.  Everyone knows, after a long day on the lake, you’ve got the drain the water out of the boat.  I used my small punch and die set to punch out some small diameter (1” in scale) disks that I glued together with CA and then tapped a little depression in to simulate the socket for the wrench to pull out the drain plug.
 
I’ve very happy with how this model turned out.  The kit itself went together wonderfully and it offers lots of opportunities to improve, scratchbuild and make unique.  Just yesterday, we learned that we can take our masks off (with some caveats) which is a much better way to cure COVID fatigue, but, in a pinch, I’d recommend this kit.
 
I’ve entered the model in the 2021 Wisconsin Maritime Museum Model Boat Show and Contest.  The contest is virtual this year.  Judging is, as I understand it, completed, but I won’t know until tomorrow night how I did.  Here are some pictures of the finished model.

I really deviated from the kit with the rig.  The kit-supplied rig is pure simplicity.  It’s just a mast, a sprit and a plastic sail.  I wanted to do a little more with that.  One of the prettiest rigs I’ve seen is the one on a melonseed skiff.  It’s got several names, but it’s got a sprit — like the kit-supplied rig — and a boom.  The sheet line runs through a block attached to the tiller head.  As far as sailboat rigs go, it’s very simple, but I thought it would look great on this model.
 
I haven’t put sails on a model since I was a kid.  I’ve found they obscure detail and often look out of scale.  But a modeler I respect a great deal, Steve Wheeler, built boat models in this scale and routinely put great-looking sails on them.  I decided to give it a try with the skiff and used Steve’s April 2004 article “Making Sails” in Ships in Scale magazine as a guide.
 
I obtained almost everything I needed from Hobby Lobby.  I started with some 270 thread count white bedsheet material.  Steve recommended washing, drying and starching it before working with it.  Then I made a paper pattern to ensure the final product would fit on the model.