steamschooner

I've opted to do some of the interior detail, at least just for kicks, even if in the final build it will be minimally seen. Those bunks were challenging. The wet well awkward at best. I'm going to give my best at attempting ladders next...

I started a new build The Emma C. Berry. I have been regulated to a couple hours on the weekends lately and the garage is too cold to work in, I have to put it away every night. I am very excited about building out my new shipyard in the new house we are building. We are 4-6 weeks out from completion and will be moving yet again. The admiral and I are more settled in our jobs now so hopefully this move will be less stressful.
 
I've been following a couple of other build logs to get to this point.

Nevermind I see it is stud link chain

What? Nils no stud link chain.

Druxey ,Pete, Thanks, also to those who added likes.
 
Not really wanting to make another cutter because the way I made the first one would be a little tricky replicate another exactly the same. I managed a salvage operation and made a small handle for the broken piece I glued it into a small piece of Costello and have now decided that this will be a good way to make these little tools in the future.
 

 

 

 
Back to the scraping.
 
Michael

Just to show you all that I have been working on my project. Not alot done but I have made and installed the main cabin roof, cut out for the stack and the engine room skylight. Turned a steam whistle and working on the stack.  Did some dry transfer lettering and made a ships bell.

Nevermind I see it is stud link chain

What? Nils no stud link chain.

Some cabin work is done as well as some pilot house work.

Just to show you all that I have been working on my project. Not alot done but I have made and installed the main cabin roof, cut out for the stack and the engine room skylight. Turned a steam whistle and working on the stack.  Did some dry transfer lettering and made a ships bell.

Well after several tries and some errors I managed to get a good cast with the steam engine block. Still needs to be cleaned up some more. I than like to sand blast the parts to get that cast iron look . Parts will then be coated with black india ink.

Well I have been getting a few minutes here and there to work on my model. This is what I have gotten done on the boiler at this time.

Well I have managed to get a little more done on my engine room gear.

Here's a couple of shots of my water feed pump. It will get painted and have small wire running to it to act as steam supply piping.   Wire will also be used to show water inlet and water outlets.

Here are a couple of shots of my generator motor. I know it's some what simplified but it was fun to build. All the machinery will get painted and after installing I will run small wire to them as supply piping.

Thank you very much Pete,
 
for your nice comment
 
here is one of the two anchorchain slide channels, (inclusive the chain stopper), between capstan gypsy and anchor hawse tube..... I know that the actual stoppers looked different, but I had to make something more easy and workable on the model
 
Nils
 

 
stopper closed
 
 

 
stopper free, chain can run out
 
 

 
channel with blocked chain (closed stopper)
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 143 – Monkey Rail 1
 
The two surviving pictures of Young America again provided the basis for the brass rail design used on the model.  The rail is just discernable in the picture taken from the starboard quarter.  From this it is clear that it was not of heavy or ornamental wood construction and equally clear – at least to me and I am happy to say, Bill Crothers – that it was a single, slim rail.  By the way, it is also very clear from this picture that the poop deck is at the height of the main rail and not a few feet below as shown on some models – including the builder’s half model in the Smithsonian.  Either that, or the people standing on the deck were on well-hidden stilts.  I suspect that the need to have good height in the aft cabin area led to this feature being incorporated before actual construction, perhaps by the owners.  Anyway, based on the picture and Bill Crothers’ interpretation, I elected to incorporate a single brass rail about 3 feet above the deck supported by cylindrical brass stanchions.  These have a ball-shaped top to pass the rail, and flanges at the base that rest on the main rail.
 
The first picture shows the method used to cut both the top fittings and the lower flanges.
 

 
The cutting guide used on the skid beam stanchion flanges was used for this.  The picture actually shows one of the 2” thick flanges being cut off.  The tops were cut in 3” sections using the hole covered by the saw.  The next picture shows top pieces and stanchions almost ready to be soldered together.
 

 
The next picture shows the first step of the assembly with the tops silver soldered to the posts.
 

 
The soldering unfortunately softens the wire somewhat so straightening is required – initially and whenever I lean on the finished rail – a habit I am diligently trying to correct. The tops were then rounded off and polished in the lathe with files as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the addition of the lower flanges.
 

 
The wood guide was used to ensure uniform height to the posts – and of course the rail.  After setting the flanges at the correct height, these were soldered on.  The next picture shows the final finishing and polishing of one of the stanchions.
 

 
Chucking the complete stanchion assembly in this step was the reason for the excess length in the initial pieces.  After filing a fillet on the top of the flange and removing all traces of solder and scale, fine abrasive polishing sticks were used to bring up the luster of the brass.
 
Some special stanchion pieces were required and two types are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchion at the top has two top fittings set at right angles.  These will be set at the head of the steps to the main deck to support both the athwartship rail sections on the breast beam and also the stair rails.  The lower piece was shown earlier in position at the stern.  I do not know the purpose of this higher section, but it serves as a convenient start point for installing the rails, as will be seen in the next post.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 142 – Mooring Chocks
 
The next planned item of work was to install the brass “monkey rail” that surrounds the poop deck.  I do not know the origin of the term.  However, since the four large chocks that control the route of the mooring lines through the rail from the dock to the mooring bitts are below that rail, they needed to be slipped into the queue and installed first so that holes for their bolts could be drilled.  There are four of these at the stern and four at the bow.  The first picture shows these being installed on the starboard side of the stern quarter.
 

 
A small dab of epoxy is being applied in the picture.  The chocks – sometimes called “comb cleats” – and their bolts were made as integral assemblies as described below.
 
The chocks and the bolts were made from copper.  I prefer this material to brass because I find it easier to blacken using liver of sulfur solution.  The first picture shows a length of copper bar with shapes for several chocks partially cut.
 

 
The first step in making these cuts was to drill two spaced holes for each chock.  The tops were then cut through with a jeweler’s saw.  In the next picture a round, spiral-toothed blade is being used to shape the inner lines.
 

 
The outer contours of the chock cleats were then filed out.  In the next picture the rounded shapes of the chock cleats have been filed and polished, holes have been drilled for the bolts, wire bolts inserted, and the strip of chocks readied for soldering.
 

 
Copper-phosphorus solder was used for this because it blackens well with LOS.  The finished stern chocks are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The bolt heads have been cut back and one of the chocks has been blackened.  In the next picture the locations of the chocks are being laid out with dividers.
 

 
Bolt hole spacing was also set with dividers and the holes drilled through the main rail.  In the last picture the four chocks have been installed.
 

 
The last picture also shows the aft, central section of the monkey rail temporarily positioned and in need of a bit of straightening.  I also not in this picture that the helm enclosure – temporarily fitted at this stage was a bit askew on its pins when the shutter snapped.
 
Work on the brass monkey rail was now able to proceed and will be described in the next part.
 
Ed

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys

Update
 
am now making the breakwaters. These have to be cut from two / four brass  halves due to placing the railings on to early. Trust this is a good solution
There where the parts penetrate the railings I put on some small metal reinforcements to the railing. The shapes of the breakwater halves are made from card templates.  I hope to get the metal work on the forecastle deck done by end of this week. The stud-link chain parts are allready blackened and look good
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys