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Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Bob, Superb!!! And you didn't break off the stem piece. :-) I wouldn't worry about being slow. You are going great and the result is fantastic. -
I found that the drill and fill method works quite well... or in my case, pinhole and fill.
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Silver Soldering Tools
Chuck Seiler replied to bundybear1981's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Ensure the work surface is thoroughly clean. Also, ensure the two surfaces to be soldered MUST be touching. Unlike low temp soldering, silver solder does not bridge the gap. -
Toni, Looking good! Mine is languishing in the paint shoppe getting the bottom painted. Hopefully I can crank that out this weekend and on to the interior. I like the fly ty.
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We could use it for signal flags. "England expects.....". We could utilize the whole SDSMG fleet for that one.
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- 18th century longboat
- model shipways
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Silver Soldering Tools
Chuck Seiler replied to bundybear1981's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Dave B./dgbot, I dunno. That looks like the stuff I use. I will have to check the actual tube when I get home. It is silver solder paste with the flux mixed in. You can get it in three different temp settings, but 1250 is about right. I have 2 temperatures if I need to make two solders close together. The first can be the higher of the two temps so the second one does not melt the first. Jason, Another source for a soldering working surface is to get a ceramic tile from the local home improvement store.. -
Chuck, Thanks. I will take a look at the paintings to see what I can find. If I can make signal flags for a 1:1200 scale HMS VICTORY, I can make an ensign or pennant for a 1:48 longboat. :-)
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Chuck, At our community build meeting last Saturday, we were discussing the flag halyard. What sort of flag or pennant would a longboat fly? The only thing we came up with is the possibility of the personal flag or pennant of an embarked CO or flag officer while going to and fro.
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Mike, Will you be making your own sheeves or buying them?
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Mike, Looks great. Looked even better in real life. You did not say, but based on your past work, I am assuming you blackened the brasswork rather than paint it. Correct?
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Bob, Are you tapering the plank before you edge bend it or after? I would think you should taper before, but the photos in post #36 seem to show that you did not.
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My plan is to have a 5 foot x 5 foot x 5 foot display case. ...although I do like the water cask idea. It saves on space.
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A view of the interior highlights the problems I had with the planking. Interior does not sand down as smoothly as exterior.
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Planking is done. If I want to pull the planks off and fix the planking, now is the time. Otherwise, it's time to remove the bulkhead centers. I decided to use a Dremel with cutoff wheel for this. Caution is important to avoid any damage to exterior planking. As indicated by others, even though the model is very delicate at this point, it is surprisingly sturdy. Extra care must be taken here. As I sand down the insides of the frames, the structure becomes weaker. Once you start adding things to the interior, it becomes stronger again.
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what powertools to buy
Chuck Seiler replied to Adrieke's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
For many years my only power tool was a dremel. I did get the Dremel drill press. As somebody mentioned, it is not that great, but it does most of what Iwant it to do. If I had to do over... A couple years ago I got the Byrnes Saw (Jim hates when you call it that). It is great, I LOVE it. It allows me to do some things more precisely than if done by hand...and other things I could never do before. I am mor einto kit bashing and scratch building now, but I think that was due to the addition of the tool. Note: Any mini table saw with the same properties would be equally helpful, but I really like the precision the B-Saw gives with the micrometer function. -
BobF, You answered my question perfectly. Patience is the watchword, I suppose. I am too far along to pull the old planks and try again, but I may decide to build a second one (or try the pinnace).
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Bob, Did you bend that downward curve in your broadstrake or did you cut it from a double wide piece of wood?
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Bob, I am watching your progress with great anticipation. As indicated in my log, I have problems with planking between the garboard strake and wale....specifically at the bow. I understand what you are doing with the tick strips and 'diminishing grid'. I have fond, however, to allow for the proper lay of the plank in the bow while it is curving in, up and twisting, the plank has to have more of a curved taper rather than straight. I sit riveted.
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I went to see the HUNLEY several years ago. It was still in a tank of water and they were still excavating the interior. At the time, they had a "Confederate honor guard" posted at a location in the exhibit that talked about the crew. I thought it was a touristy thing that they were doing...a novelty sort of thing. I found out that it was an actual honor guard (I'm not sure of how official it was) to 'guard' the remains of the crew that were being kept at that location until they could be formally interred later that year. Very interesting site. Highly recommended if you are going. Patriot's Point is also a good location.
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Completed planking and a low tech waterline marker. Another view of the exterior planking and waterline marker. The trunnels are easier to see in this pic. I originally planned to use bamboo trunnels, but later decided just to fill the holes using wood filler (based on other peoples experiences). Rather than the prescribed 2 trunnels per frame, I went with alternating 1-2-1-2 pattern.
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I’m back. I have been out of service due to an eye malady. Interestingly, it is easier to drive with one eye than it is to build ship (or boat) models. Planking is complete but the results are not as good as I would like. Despite rework, the few strakes above the garboard on either side gave me problems. I used wood filler to make it look adequate. Once painted, you should not be able to tell the difference. Rather than just cover it up, I wanted to show what can be done when your work is less than great. ...or I could have just made it an admiralty model. :-)
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I was going to use a brass pedestal, but after looking at your arrangement I may have to rethink. A pedestal may be overly big.
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Hi Bob. You say this s your first post to MSW but I suspect this is not your first model. I might even know you. (I think I sat next to you at the last SMA conference in Newport Beach a few years ago.) I look forward to your progress and processes.
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Hopeful David, Great work. I get to see all the things I SHOULD have done when I started my build. I got the kit a few years ago and began by bashing it heavily. So far the only thing I have used from the kit are the plans and quarterbadges. <No offense Model Expo>. I did not do a build log and it would be too hard to re-create at this point. There was certainly a lot of soul searching on how to do this, that or the other thing. I am not sure if it is worthwhile at this point to start a log just to show construction to date (stepping masts and rigging). I see you found pictures of the replica. I was able to find a bunch of 'during construction' and 'underway detail' shots to help with deck details. Since the plans for the model were derived from the NMM plans, which were also used to develop the plans for the replica, he model is REAL close to the replica (except no propeller....unless you want to add one). One thing I found, for instance, is that all the deck planks are single planks....no butt joints...because they are all short enough not to need them. Anywho, I look forward to watching your progress. At the rate I am going you may pass me.
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Thanks Doug.
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