Chuck Seiler

I have read similar info about the Mayflower shallop.  It seems to me that the only way they could do this is have a pointy end and a flat end for each half.  When bolted together there would be a double bulkhead athwartship (athwartboat?)
 
At any rate, Richard's model looks top notch.

And happy holidays to you too Allan!
 
I've used Casey Brass Black in the past with mixed success. I've cleaned the brass etc etc, used the solution diluted, but it doesn't always seem to work. I suspect the composition of the brass has something to do with it. Perhaps too much zinc relative to copper.
 
Cheers

I've decided that my primary goal is to enjoy the process/enjoy the hobby.  My skills improve and I work towards having a masterpiece that will be on somebody's mantle 100 years from now,  Meanwhile I have met all sorts of interesting people and can swear in multiple languages.

Funniest thing I have heard in a while😀  Members sometimes disagree with each other over points here and there, but we all love this hobby and I for one am very happy to learn from every single member and/or be corrected if I got something wrong.   Going back 50+ years ago I was taught by one of my first bosses that even the newest member of our team can often do something better than anyone else and as a supervisor it was my job to find out what that was and utilize that skill for the betterment of all of us.   Same goes for this hobby.   Many of us have decades of experience but we often learn a new trick or idea from even the novices thanks to our membership's willingness to help each other.  But I digress.....   

I've decided that my primary goal is to enjoy the process/enjoy the hobby.  My skills improve and I work towards having a masterpiece that will be on somebody's mantle 100 years from now,  Meanwhile I have met all sorts of interesting people and can swear in multiple languages.

I've decided that my primary goal is to enjoy the process/enjoy the hobby.  My skills improve and I work towards having a masterpiece that will be on somebody's mantle 100 years from now,  Meanwhile I have met all sorts of interesting people and can swear in multiple languages.

Chuck,
 
Here's the close-up. You can see the chain, and if you look carefully, you can see the retaining pins at each end. The leeboard doesn't flap around as much as you might think as the lifting tackle restricts it somewhat. Still, it's definitely not fixed and moves easily if touched.

I used paint on the iron work - I've never had much luck with using chemical blackeners.
 
Cheers

They aren’t separate goals, but I believe by choosing a ship like the Beagle for my first build may have slowed my skill development compared to building simpler builds like some of the Modelshipways kits.  I just prioritized a kit I found more interesting.  Skills still developed, just at a different pace and different order perhaps.   

Thanks guys,  for the discussion about the leeboards. I'm going to go with what the kit suggests, and hang them from chains.
 
The leeboards themselves were easy enough to assemble,  all the parts were pre-cut. The iron reinforcing bands needed a little care to position them, but no dramas.
 
The chains though. These are supposed to be made up using the supplied PE. And these bits are tiny!

I didn’t like my chances. Sure enough, "ping" and one piece headed into the clutter on the table - found it though. But, a few minutes later "PING" and this time the piece flew off probably with enough speed to embed itself in the wall - never did find it. I had some chain that was close to the size required, except the links were round not flat, but this was what was going to be used. I had managed not to lose the tiny end plates that go through the leeboard and the inboard support, so got those onto short lengths of chain. Before fitting the assemblage onto the boat, I thought that putting the tackle for raising the leeboards in place would be useful to do now. The photo shows the tackle loosely in place and the leeboards with the chains lying on them.

The leeboards were fitted in place with the chains passing through them and the inner ends passing through the inboard supports. Tiny retaining pins (supplied PE) were pushed through the end plates to keep everything in place. Now, as the leeboards are basically just hanging off the chains, they are very vulnerable to damage - don't ask 😖 - and the chains are the weakest link 🥴. Sometime later, when repairs had been made and calm restored, I completed rigging the tackle. It looked good. Then I thought I should put the boat onto the display base and promptly found that I hadn't tightened the tackle enough, as a result of which the leeboards hung too low and fouled the base 😬. The tackle would have to be redone. Not a big deal, but a nuisance anyway, and after a few deep breaths, I tackled the tackle to get it right.


Cheers
 

I would heartily second (3rd and 4th) the above recommendations to NOT do a frigate as your second model unless you DO have the skill set.  I have seen way too many CONSTITUTION models started, then donated because the modeler was in way over their head.  Most people make mistakes in their early models and learn from those.  Frigate models require a much larger investment in money AND time...I would think you would want to be proficient before starting one of these.  A half @$$ed SULTANA is one thing.  A crappy model you intend as a showpiece is a cow of a different color.
 
Don't dismiss the drudgery of repetitive processes.  It is one of the primary reasons models are set aside and never finished.
 
I look forward to what you come up with and will be looking for your build log. 

Another valuable lesson learned...if things don't look right, don't be afraid to rip it out and fix the problem.  If you try and work around the problem the errors tend to compound.
 
"Ripping" is not the correct verb either.  I actually prefer "deconstruct" by soaking the joint with isopropyl alcohol and (when the PVA glue is soft) gently removing it.

I would heartily second (3rd and 4th) the above recommendations to NOT do a frigate as your second model unless you DO have the skill set.  I have seen way too many CONSTITUTION models started, then donated because the modeler was in way over their head.  Most people make mistakes in their early models and learn from those.  Frigate models require a much larger investment in money AND time...I would think you would want to be proficient before starting one of these.  A half @$$ed SULTANA is one thing.  A crappy model you intend as a showpiece is a cow of a different color.
 
Don't dismiss the drudgery of repetitive processes.  It is one of the primary reasons models are set aside and never finished.
 
I look forward to what you come up with and will be looking for your build log. 

I would heartily second (3rd and 4th) the above recommendations to NOT do a frigate as your second model unless you DO have the skill set.  I have seen way too many CONSTITUTION models started, then donated because the modeler was in way over their head.  Most people make mistakes in their early models and learn from those.  Frigate models require a much larger investment in money AND time...I would think you would want to be proficient before starting one of these.  A half @$$ed SULTANA is one thing.  A crappy model you intend as a showpiece is a cow of a different color.
 
Don't dismiss the drudgery of repetitive processes.  It is one of the primary reasons models are set aside and never finished.
 
I look forward to what you come up with and will be looking for your build log. 

Another valuable lesson learned...if things don't look right, don't be afraid to rip it out and fix the problem.  If you try and work around the problem the errors tend to compound.
 
"Ripping" is not the correct verb either.  I actually prefer "deconstruct" by soaking the joint with isopropyl alcohol and (when the PVA glue is soft) gently removing it.

Going from Polaris to a frigate is a huge step up, not just in terms of complexity of the subject but also in terms of the sheer number of repetitive tasks to be done, e.g., ratlines, guns, etc. I suggest aiming for something a little smaller, such as an armed sloop or gun brig. While not frigates, those subjects will still be sufficiently challenging and produce striking finished models.

I am building the caldercraft Diana at the moment but i would not advise it as a second kit. If I had not already of had it in my stash I would of gone with the Sphinx from Vanguard models. It is still rated as an experienced builder but the build methods and instructions have improved dramatically since the Diana kit was designed.

Back to where I was
 
Eric, I applied your advice to my redo with better results. Thank you!
 
Since I wasn’t happy with how the planks above the garboard looked near the bow, I removed them and redid them.
 
Part of the problem I was having was that the planks weren’t quite lying correctly. In particular, the rabbet was too deep so that the bottom edge of the broad strake was partially underneath the garboard. This picture shows the shim I added before shaping it to match the rabbet and allow the broad strake to fit correctly.

Besides adding a shim, I made a guess that frames 4 and 5 weren't quite right. This turned out be true. (But I was prepared to add more shims.) Although not perfect, I think the planking looks better. Sanding should clean them up enough - I hope.

 
 

I don't know in what order you're working, but sometimes I've found it helpful to shape the bow end of planks like that first, then work backward to get the rest to fit. That way I know I've got the angle I want at the stem before I put a lot of work into the rest of the plank. It helps avoid the red arrow problem you're showing, where the angle of the front plank seems not quite right.
 
As for marking, something I've also done at times is to mark using a sharp knife, which makes a smaller and more precise line than any marker. You can then gently trace the nick with a sharp pencil to make it more visible, but the pencil tip follows the nick so it doesn't wobble astray. It's an old woodworker technique. It's slightly more fussy but especially good if you're trying to be very exact on measurements, and it doesn't rub off or bleed.
 
Don't know if any of that is helpful. I found this kit challenging as well and it definitely pushed me to improve.

I felt I needed to take a break from a whaleship build and started this Half Hull project last week. Thought it would be a slam dunk, its more challenging than I expected. Looks like you are making good progress.

Interesting discussion about using different styles of leeboard
 
Somewhere around 3:38 he discusses, on the other side, a leeboard "that can swing out in the normal fashion".

Hi Robert,
 
Interesting video. Thanks for that.
 
Not sure of the difference between his two types of leeboards - "normal" and "other". Though it seems from what he was saying his "other" only swings fore-and-aft, whereas his "normal" is free to swing fore-and-aft and also pivot so that it rises near horizontal.
 
The method of rigging the leeboards on the model (and presumably the replica), using a chain that is only fastened to the hull in-board, suggests that this would allow the leeboards to swing in the guy’s "normal" fashion. The chain would be flexible enough to allow this.
 
Cheers

Understood, but I would think the water pressure from the boat moving through the water would press it up and back.

So far as I can tell, the leeboards are held down by gravity, and can ride up.
The advantage in shallow waters is that this reduces the risk of getting stuck if the boat runs aground.

Have a look at some Thames barges.  While carrying more sail, they have some similarities to this shallop, notably the main sail is a spirit sail, and they use leeboards.

I am curious to see how you manage the lee-boards.  It seems to me that there is nothing holding them in place except for that chain running over the gunn'l to the support. 
 
    I am also perplexed by how it is rigged.  The lines, blocks and sheaves appear to be used to retract the lee-boards, but there is nothing to deploy them or keep them from being forced up by the water flow.  Perhaps I am missing something(s).

Hi Chuck,
 
You've just managed to comment on exactly the same concerns I have about the leeboards. I don’t think you've missed  anything that's shown on the plans. I've been puzzling over them for the last day or two (Olha's video doesn't help at all). I may have them rigged today or tomorrow.
 
Cheers