Chuck Seiler

Hello,
the last two day I was pretty busy at the shipyard. UPs, and where is the ship?    😄

All the frames are installed.

The next days I think, I must concentrate my work more onto my house and garden. During that time, the ship could settle before I install the bitis (deck beams)

Hello
and many thanks for all the likes
Today only a small update, I started with the 3. plank on both sides. The visible part of the 2. Plank is here ca 2 mm.

Sorry, forgot the pics.

Exactly, that's why I'd ideally want something I don't need to shape and doesn't need to be treated. I'd give up the will to live if I needed to paint 1000+ rivets 😆

One thing I'd like to do with this model is to add the nails to the outside. 
 
This will need a LOT of nails. The best thing to use would be domed resin rivets, preferably in black resin. These would be perfect for something like this. A ship like Oseberg would have nails spaced about 200mm apart, equating to only 8mm apart on the model. So you can see I need lots of these.
 
Question...does anyone know where I could get something like this? I don't want to use blackened brass nails.

Since all of Chris' designs are in 1/64 scale, you will run into the same issue -- and more often. You may need to look into doing kits in 1/32, 1/24, or even larger. You should take a look at Chesapeake Light Craft's model kits -- they are small craft, but done in large scales, e.g., 1/8 scale.

It's a safe bet to keep this *running* rigging black...to represent the tarring.  It had to be preserved or it would rot. Lanyards were extremely susceptible to rot...being soaked in sea water and generally tightly fit...preventing good air circulation.  When the USS Constitution was recently rerigged...her naval architects chose black rigging for the lanyards , foot ropes and ratlines.  If they concluded it was appropriate...you can too.
All my clipper builds are rigged with black rigging for these standing fixtures.

 
 
 
Rob

That's while setting up the rigging. The 19th-Century manuals of seamanship provide more detail on how that was to be done. What they don't seem to give us is any clarity on how heavily tarred was the rope that the  lanyards were made from. (Some of them go on about left vs. right lay and the reeving of the deadeyes, such that the twist imparted in the shroud by stretching it was countered by the twist imposed by asymmetry in the deadeye/lanyard system.)
 
Fishhooks' original question was focused on Victory, as she was in 1805. The ship's present refit is attempting to restore her to that point in her evolution, with research going all the way to examining surviving fragments of old paint layers, for guidance on the colours. McGowan's book presents the previous (1980s) major refit, including the decision to use black polypropylene rope for the standing rigging and a non-black version for the running gear (but without comment on the lanyards). I expect that somebody has thought about the best colours of rope to use in the current work. But I don't know how best to access information on what decisions have been made, nor why.

Every ratline I have climbed was tarred to a black shade (remembering that even brown-looking hemp and manila rope typically contain some tar) – aside, that is, from those that were black plastic, masquerading as tarred hemp. I think that rigging lanyards have typically been made of tarred rope also, though I'd not swear to it.
 
Oddly, none of the contemporary texts that I can immediately place my hands on seem to say what was tarred and what not.
 
Trevor

The really messy job is tarring the shrouds and I've never done that. (The nearest I came to it was tramping around one of Kruzenshtern's capstans to hoist a Russian cadet who had been lowered too far down the rigging he was tarring. Happier times.)
 
But the mess on your hands when going aloft also comes from the shrouds because you should never, ever hold the ratlines. They have a very nasty habit of breaking at just the wrong moment, when a firm grip on the shroud will save you from embarrassment. One did fail on me, the very first time I went aloft (on a dubiously authorized climb, at age 13) and I have not needed to be told again.
 
Trevor

Falconer's Universal Dictionary of the Marine (1769) says the lanyards in deadeyes were smeared with hog's lard or tallow so it slips more easily through the holes. Consequently I would suspect that they aren't tarred heavily, But the fat probably oxidized to a brown color, so the lanyards wouldn't look like new rope - unless they were new.
 
He doesn't say anything about rat lines (rattlings) being tarred or not. But they are part of the standing rigging. Since the shrouds were tarred it is safe to assume the ratlines would be tarred also.

This kit is single planked.  I strongly believe that it should have been double planked.

I have run into a problem with the planking on my AL Sanson tug.  The video instructions on this kit have you planking from the deck down, and the from the keel up.  As can be seen from the photos there is a problem where they meet.  All planks are flat on the frames and I thought my faring was good.  If I were to sand where these planks meet there will be no plank left.  Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

You are correct.  That was a poor representation of what I was trying to get at.  The updated drawing is probably better.  The key is dry fitting a plank or cardboard template so that it snugs into the curve of the stem.  As you say, the upper edge should be straight.  It will be a natural fit.

I had that problem as well.  I read alot about it and followed many build logs.  The light finally came on when I took what I had learned and started experimenting.  By taking a test plank and sanding the bow end as I go, I test fit the plank.  At one point, the plank fit snug with little or no problem  This was normally right at the curve of the keel up to the stem.  Working it out just from plans never worked.  Test plank or cardboard template in conjunction with the model ended up working for me.
 

Planking is done!.....almost. 
 
You need to be real careful when planking. It's not a hard model to plank, and it's inevitable that you'll likely need to adjust the bevels a little. The planks are also supplied in a number of pieces each. What matters is first of all accurately fitting the temporary prow side facings. These will be key to making sure that each plank sits accurately on top of the other at the prow, and stack up to the correct height when it comes to the 10th row. That is, the last plank will sit neatly into the remaining gaps at the top of the temporary prow facings. Does that make sense? Ok, here we go.
 
You can see here that the variation in the colour of those alder keel parts now doesn't matter. They are all covered up.

 
You get an idea of how the sections are fitted, here. When it comes to working my way around the prow, I do multiple test fits and trims before I commit to glue. At that point, I only glue the prow too, then clamp. When set, I work my way around the bulkhead and use lots of clamps until fully set. This process isn't at all difficult, but it takes time to do methodically so that you get the best outcome. I'm not saying I did things perfect, but despite me being supercritical of my own work I'd give a generous 9/10. That is generally due to Pavel's excellent design being closely followed, especially on the tutorial videos on YouTube.

 

 
 
Here is the hull, planked up to the 10th plank. At this point, I ran all the way around the exposed deck beams/ears and softened the edges. I should've done that before building the hull frame, but it wasn't difficult to do. You will notice one mistake I made.....the furthest bulkhead with ears....the infill part has the part number facing inwards, meaning it'd be seen when the model is complete. I'll come up with something to hide that. I put them in that way to neutralise the kerf between the bulkhead and infill, so my mistake!

 
Here's the obligatory underside shot. You can clearly see where planks have been kerf-jointed so the grain runs true to the plank flow. I did have one joint 'pop' when planking, but that was only because I snagged it and strained the joint.

 

 
There are just two more planking runs to fit, but these won't be fitted until I start to add stain to the interior. The reason is that it won't be easy to add the various stages to the stain if those planks are running between the bulkhead ears. In the meantime, I might make up the floor sections and do some test fitting before planking is finalised. 
 
Until next time...
 
 

You are correct.  That was a poor representation of what I was trying to get at.  The updated drawing is probably better.  The key is dry fitting a plank or cardboard template so that it snugs into the curve of the stem.  As you say, the upper edge should be straight.  It will be a natural fit.

You are correct.  That was a poor representation of what I was trying to get at.  The updated drawing is probably better.  The key is dry fitting a plank or cardboard template so that it snugs into the curve of the stem.  As you say, the upper edge should be straight.  It will be a natural fit.

I had that problem as well.  I read alot about it and followed many build logs.  The light finally came on when I took what I had learned and started experimenting.  By taking a test plank and sanding the bow end as I go, I test fit the plank.  At one point, the plank fit snug with little or no problem  This was normally right at the curve of the keel up to the stem.  Working it out just from plans never worked.  Test plank or cardboard template in conjunction with the model ended up working for me.
 

When I made the Pavel Nikitin "JOHN SMITH SHALLOP", I replaced the line with after market line.  Two GREAT sources are SYREN SHIPMODEL COMPANY and ROPES OF SCALE.  Both are MSW sponsors.
 
ROS offers synthetic and cotton line while SYREN only has synthetic.  Both are good.
 
 
 

I had that problem as well.  I read alot about it and followed many build logs.  The light finally came on when I took what I had learned and started experimenting.  By taking a test plank and sanding the bow end as I go, I test fit the plank.  At one point, the plank fit snug with little or no problem  This was normally right at the curve of the keel up to the stem.  Working it out just from plans never worked.  Test plank or cardboard template in conjunction with the model ended up working for me.
 

Still having difficulty in figuring out how to cut the garboard strake curve at the bow. If I can get this down I'll be home free. I THINK the best way is to lay the straight plank on the plans and trace the curve of the garboard strake onto the straight plank and cut it out. Am I correct?

The most durable scale ropes are likely those made with polyester thread - with Gutermann exhibiting the least amount of 'fuzz' at magnification.  BUT, after stretching (setting - a needed part of any rope making process) poly line needs to be "set" in a warm oven (320 degrees F) for 5 - 7 minutes.  Otherwise there can be unraveling when cut.  (If teased, any line can de-twist.)  Syren poly rope comes heat-set.  I'm presuming that Ropes of Scale is also set, but any batch of poly can be cut-tested and re-set if needed.
  Cotton line (properly laid and set) has less raveling, but is not ravel proof.  I don't know the composition of Nitkin rope, nor the lot-to-lot consistency (process control).

I'm a little late to the discussion, but I am just starting to rig the Pavel Nikitin Santa Maria, and in my first few cuts of his 0.45mm beige rope, the strands are unraveling on me as they are cut.  Not happy about that.  I previously used his thicker 1.3mm black rope and it was ok.
 
So, looks like I might be relying on my supply of Syren and Ropes of Scale inventories, as I have used them in the past with great success.

Nef kit?  When will that be on the market?