Chuck Seiler

The NRG is an educational organization, dedicated to providing our members with the knowledge to improve the quality of their model ship building.  One of the most common problems model builders have is rigging their model.  Kit instructions are poor.  Often, the materials provided in the kit are improperly sized or the cheapest that the manufacturer could obtain.  We all know that blocks are not square!  I wanted to develop a project whose purpose would be to teach ship modelers how to mast and rig a ship without having to build a complete hull.  This model is a 1:48 scale cross-section at the level of the main mast of a late 18th century British sloop of war, Swallow 1779.  To keep the size of the model manageable and eliminate the need for a building board, the hull is cut off just above the waterline.  For the same reason, only the center portion of the lower yard and the lower part of the topmast are constructed.  Also, because this is a cross-section, certain lines, such as the stays and backstays, are not included.  My emphasis will be on demonstrating techniques to improve your rigging skills.  Skills that can be used on your next project.
 
As this was developed as a teaching aid, certain shortcuts and compromises to historical accuracy were taken.  Wherever possible, I have used measurements provided by the plans and such authorities as Steel and Lees.  I apologize in advance to the master modelers who might criticize my shortcuts.  I have kept the use of power tools to a minimum.  The only thing that is outside the normal collection of hand tools is a serving machine.  The Guild hopes to begin selling this kit in the next few months.
 
The kit contains all the materials required to complete the model.  But I always keep my scrap box nearby for those times when a piece of a contrasting color wood is desirable.  I will mention those times as the build log progresses.  Also, the build log is made up from the best photographs taken from three builds of this model.  A sharp eye will notice some differences in the wood color because of that.
 
The hull is constructed in typical plank on bulkhead style.  There is a notched spine and notched bulkheads.  The laser cut sheet of one-eighth inch basswood ply also contains a template for the top and four types of spacers, A through D. 

The spine and the frames are assembled as seen below.  Frame 1 is installed with the printing facing aft.  This gave me the option of painting the exposed bulkhead after construction was completed.


 
The mast fits in the slanted slot between Frames 3 and 4.  To keep the mast vertical, support spacers are glued on both sides of the spine.  They will be sanded flush to the spine when the hull is faired. 


To prevent the hull from twisting and to strengthen it, spacers are placed between each frame.  The three aft spacers are “B”, the next one is “C” and the two foremost ones are “D”.  They are placed close to the edge of the frame for maximum stability.  The laser char only needs to be removed from the fore and aft sides so that their surfaces are flat.  If too much wood is sanded off, I glue strips of paper onto the edge as a filler to prevent distorting the hull.
 
The hull and deck were faired so there are smooth curves fore to aft.  I used a sanding block for this.  I did not fair the bulwark extensions (the thin strips of wood above the deck) to prevent them from breaking off.  This model has a significant camber to the deck.  Sanding sticks help getting into the corners.  You can see that the mast supports have been sanded down to match the height of the deck.

Next up is planking the hull.
 
 

One thing I am toying with is staining the inner bulkheads a Continental Green.  Not sure if I want to stay all natural wood or add a bit or flair.  But I am pretty sure I don't want paint, hence the stain idea.  Open to any thoughts out there.  It may not be possible to stain as I keep adding things to the inner bulkheads.
 
Overall state of the ship tonight.
 

 
Thanks for checking things out.

Well it looks like we got this all Tied up. Thanks

https://www.animatedknots.com/complete-knot-list 
 
I found this useful , I hope it helps..
 
Bob M.

That looks interesting, Bob!  I'm saving that one.  I have this one saved for reference and have used it several times... 
 
Rope Knots - All Rope Knots Animated and Illustrated | How to tie all knots for Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Survival, (netknots.com)

I wonder how many people take advice like this, versus they have to touch the hot stove before they listen.  (ouch, that IS hot!!!)  I have spoken on this topic often, so it is close to my heart.  I usually see "Yeah, I hear you, but that doesn't apply to me."  Far be it from me to judge.  An old friend of mine built a fully rigged, quite detailed miniature of HMS VICTORY as his second model.  For some it DOESN't apply to them.  Most it does.
 
    I hope that those who disregard this and get the complicated model, only to 'touch the stove' don't get discouraged.  Instead, I hope they have the wisdom to set that project aside and get a simple starter kit to learn on.
 
OTHER WORDS OF WISDOM FOR NEWBIES:
1.  You can never have too many clamps.
2.  Alcohol is your friend.  It helps you unglue previously screwed up glued up parts so you can try again.  (Including ALL the planking from one model...just saying.) 
3.  Magnification and light are also your friends.
4.  If you get frustrated or tired, set it aside and come back to it later.
5.  READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am a long time PRIME member already.  Price is above and beyond that.

A couple of updates for the shallop.

The rigging lines have been tidied up; the different number of loops reflect how much of the line is in use.


Off-topic, I gather that belaying pins are unlikely at this stage (early 1600's); it is far too late to do anything about that now.

And I've made progress with posing the crew; the guy at the back (stern) controls the tiller:

 
He has developed a paunch, and wants for some period clothing.

I am a long time PRIME member already.  Price is above and beyond that.

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

Oh, yes . . .

The clue is in the caption - a "naval odometer" according to Vitruvius (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitruvius )
 
Steven

I wasn't aware that there were paddle wheelers in the middle ages.  😁

Upon checking Prime, I see it is available, but I would either have to rent at $.99 for 4 episodes or buy at $.99 per episode.  If you buy full 'season' it is about $20.

I have the entire series on DVD. I've had it at least 10 years and it cost less than $20.
 
I have no idea how many times I watched this as a kid - every time it came up on TV. And then while in US Navy Officer Candidate's School we were shown episodes just about every day as part of our "training" (indoctrination).
 
I still love to watch it!
 
Gung Ho!

Upon checking Prime, I see it is available, but I would either have to rent at $.99 for 4 episodes or buy at $.99 per episode.  If you buy full 'season' it is about $20.

I wasn't aware that there were paddle wheelers in the middle ages.  😁

I'm starting on a model of the Golden City, a paddlewheeler which operates on Ballarat's Lake Wendouree, run by volunteers  and taking passengers for trips around the lake every summer Sunday (weather permitting). It is a replica of one of the paddlesteamers which did the same thing back around the turn of the 20th century (unfortunately destroyed by fire some years ago).
 
It will be a Solid model, and I'm first making one at 1:50 to iron out the bugs. After that I'll be making another at 1:25 to present to the people who run her, who also run a museum dedicated to the vessel itself and its history. 
 
I've spoken to one of the organisers who's very keen on the idea - apart from anything else, visitors to the museum get disappointed when they can't see the vessel if she's out on the lake, so a decent sized model (68 cm or 27 inches long) would be a great help.
 
I've actually started on both models already, and if it all works out I'll simplify the design and make multiple 1:50 models to sell to visitors, as a fund-raiser for both the museum and for the Men's Shed where I make stuff (and which has so many wonderful boys' toys, like bandsaws, lathes, bench saws etc etc).
 
Here are some photos of her


And some I took close up while she was in her boatshed.




Plus photos of the plans which the museum kindly got out for me, and which I then redrew to make the model.


And here are the smaller and larger models so far. As you can see in the first and second photos the deck overlaps the hull considerably.

Upside down, showing the overlap.

And with 'paddleboxes' - just cut from a bit of 20mm wood with a hole saw and cut in half.

Comparative sizes - 1:50 in front and 1:25 behind.


The two together with paddleboxes. The bit in front is the roof awning, which fortunately is flat. And another shot of the two together. (The phone camera reduces the size contrast in the first photo and exaggerates it in the second.)

I think the most difficult bit for me will be the posts that hold up the awning and the railings. I can't see any way to make them except out of wire, and I'm currently rubbish at soldering. Well, another skill I'll need to learn . . .
 
Steven

Based on y’all’s feedback, I ended up modifying my block sander with 320 grit and replaced the paddles with sandpaper. I just stapled a double ply to the center mandrel. Worked like a charm! Chuck’s blocks came out looking incredible. 
 

That’s looking very nice indeed.

All, bar one, of the rigging lines are now in place, and the foresail has been lowered.

I wanted the foresail lowered, so I gave it a brief soaking under the bathroom tap.
This made the paper flexible and workable, but loosened the glue (generic white PVA) I'd used for the sail's seams and ropes.

The one thread that wasn't affected was the string wound around the forestay.  This made life difficult by not wanting to adapt to the folds I was adding to the sail.
That was replaced with wire rings (bronze in this case, brass or copper would work as well), followed by another trip to the bathroom.

This time I attached the edge ropes after folding the sail into place; a slow process.

 
Most of the rigging lines are in place, the loose ends need tidying:

 

Chuck,
    What did you use as a container?

'Tis a common tale.  Sometime very small details take alot of time and effort.  You wonder if it is worth the time/effort, but later realize it is.  A poor detail distracts from a good model.

I bought a case of metal cans with a screw top.  It cost me $15.  They are the size of a can of peanuts give or take. 
 
Folks use them to make candles or to store candy and other stuff.  Got them on Etsy.  I thought I would need many and I would wreck them after a while but this is still the first one after about 6 years.
 
Chuck

Probably too coarse(I use 320 grit)....but more than anything you are not gluing up those layers securely with enough glue...and or not waiting long enough for the layers to completely dry.  Dont be afraid to use enough glue.   In my case usually CA.   A drop on each area needed to be secured.  And I tumble at the highest speed in my tumbler...3000 RPM.  Note how my tumbler is home made and very simple.  No wood flapper and instead just a few sheets of 320 grit which are very flexible yet stiff enough to do the job.
 
the center shaft is also simple…a wooden stick (cherry) with a slit in it to accept the sandpaper.  Like a tuning fork of sorts with some cross strips in the center to prevent splitting.  
 
This thing gets a ton of use and does the trick beautifully without any broken bits afterwards.
 

 

Us lurkers like this kind of thread, too.  Thanks for posting.