SawdustDave

Catching up here Piet. Read the story about your father twice....tears both times. God bless you my friend. As usual, coming to your log is like a breath of fresh air to my old bones.
Cheers
 
Dave

Catching up here Piet. Read the story about your father twice....tears both times. God bless you my friend. As usual, coming to your log is like a breath of fresh air to my old bones.
Cheers
 
Dave

Catching up here Piet. Read the story about your father twice....tears both times. God bless you my friend. As usual, coming to your log is like a breath of fresh air to my old bones.
Cheers
 
Dave

Hi all,
 
For anymore discussion of the upcoming event.. please use this topic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8275-spring-msw-member-show-and-tell-meeting-discussion/    This way Dave can have his build log back.

This build remains at the top of my list of the finest, most comprehensive models I have ever had the pleasure of watching come together. You are a very special artist sir. Thank you again for this amazing log.
 
PS: Anyone who has not visited your Vic log is really missing something very special.
 
Dave

Hull planking completed....
Decision time....Painting her white below the water line.
As much as I dread painting over that beautiful bamboo grain....gonna do it.
The Question in my mind is whether to use the true water line as shown in the last two pics....or.... Should I follow the up-sweep of her wale at the stern in order to include the gun port lids in the painted area?
Seems like I've seen it done both ways.
Any thoughts for the old man?

Not much to show for two weeks work....huh?  Not gonna say how many times I removed the wales and repositioned them.
Port and starboard are now planked and tree nailed down to below her water line. 
Golden oak stain and a single coat of wipe on poly applied.
 
Gun port lid hinge straps have been tree nailed to simulate bolts.
 
After much study of other Mayflower models, I have decided to paint her below the waterline.  That decision led me to have to go back to the stern and move the two gun port lids down about an inch in order for them to align below the transome wale and be painted white.  No photo because I must, now, return to the stern and tree nail all.
 
 

Good day in the shop.  Here are a few sequence shots of how I am building the tops with planked sides.
 
1st Pic....Split shot showing the block of pine wood as it is marked on both sides before being shaping into the form used to build the sides.  Note, the thickness of the block is exactly the height of the finished top.

 
2nd Pic.....After shaping the block and fitting the 16 vertical planks equally spaced around the form and beginning to fit the first row of planking.  Note the glue used to fit these vertical planks is diluted to facilitate removal later.  Also note, I have begun with the form placed upside down on a metal surface in order to keep the outer edges of the starting planks perfectly aligned.  Also note the alternating pattern of end cuts.

 
3rd Pic....The pattern of the planks is more evident showing the third row being fitted.  The joint gaps are desired as glue cavities for the outer vertical planks. 

 
4th Pic.... Split shot showing the removal of the block form with very course rasp bits.  
Note in the left shot, the outer "seam" at each of the 16 joints has been sanded flat to provide a good glue surface for the vertical planks.
Note in the right shot, the outer vertical planks have been fitted before final removal of the remaining pine form material.

 
5th pic.... There you are.  Ready for floor piece, knees, and top rail, to be fitted....not included herein.

Shaping the bottom fitting requires a bit of fiddling in order to get a snug fit.  Note the indexing mark and piece of tape (obvious reason).  Cutting the shape staying about 1mm outside the marks, then beveling the bottom edge inward to match up to the beveled sides. 

 
Not a bad fit here (both sides)

 
Finally, using the crosstree assembly, marked the opening and cut the hole. 
Final note, you can see that I have greatly reduced the size of the knees compared to the foremast top. 
Yea....Gonna have loads of fun trying to rip those puppies out and re-doing without tearing anything up. 
My original thought was to make them fat enough to treenail them.... another foolish thought on my part. 

Here's a posting I just placed on the "Discussion" thread for a spring get-together in NC.....
 
UPDATE....
The event is now officially registered and approved as a Wounded Warrior Project fund raising event. Tentative date is set for April 4th.
Also, I have agreed to offer my Mayflower (1:76th scale) for public auction at the event.
Raises the next question.... Do any of you have any models you would like to offer for auction?
All receipts going to WWP of course.
 
Here is the approval notification I just received....
"We are pleased to inform you that your event application has been approved by Wounded Warrior Project® (WWP). As an approved Proud Supporter, you will have access to a myriad of tools through the WWP Proud Supporter Community. Please click here to access our secure online network for you and other Proud Supporters! "
 
Comments....suggestions....

Here's a posting I just placed on the "Discussion" thread for a spring get-together in NC.....
 
UPDATE....
The event is now officially registered and approved as a Wounded Warrior Project fund raising event. Tentative date is set for April 4th.
Also, I have agreed to offer my Mayflower (1:76th scale) for public auction at the event.
Raises the next question.... Do any of you have any models you would like to offer for auction?
All receipts going to WWP of course.
 
Here is the approval notification I just received....
"We are pleased to inform you that your event application has been approved by Wounded Warrior Project® (WWP). As an approved Proud Supporter, you will have access to a myriad of tools through the WWP Proud Supporter Community. Please click here to access our secure online network for you and other Proud Supporters! "
 
Comments....suggestions....

Hi Piet. Never have tried an airplane because I figured I would get carried away and put a lot of sweat into something only to make a hole in the ground with it. My brother did exactly that.
As for the angle cuts on the planks, I refer you to the answer given to Ed, who had the same question. The interlocking pattern is much stronger than straight joints would be.
PS....It's beginning to look a little more like you might need to plan that trip to NC next spring.
Thanks for the visit as always.

Here's a posting I just placed on the "Discussion" thread for a spring get-together in NC.....
 
UPDATE....
The event is now officially registered and approved as a Wounded Warrior Project fund raising event. Tentative date is set for April 4th.
Also, I have agreed to offer my Mayflower (1:76th scale) for public auction at the event.
Raises the next question.... Do any of you have any models you would like to offer for auction?
All receipts going to WWP of course.
 
Here is the approval notification I just received....
"We are pleased to inform you that your event application has been approved by Wounded Warrior Project® (WWP). As an approved Proud Supporter, you will have access to a myriad of tools through the WWP Proud Supporter Community. Please click here to access our secure online network for you and other Proud Supporters! "
 
Comments....suggestions....

Very interesting idea with the switch Vivian. Nice work.
 
Dave

nice!!! 

Good thinking on your part Dave in making the top.  Are you an airplane guy perhaps?  They are cleaver people you know    Seriously though, your top looks very nice.  Just wondering why the angled planks.
Very clear tutorial, thanks for sharing it.
 
Cheers,

Here's a posting I just placed on the "Discussion" thread for a spring get-together in NC.....
 
UPDATE....
The event is now officially registered and approved as a Wounded Warrior Project fund raising event. Tentative date is set for April 4th.
Also, I have agreed to offer my Mayflower (1:76th scale) for public auction at the event.
Raises the next question.... Do any of you have any models you would like to offer for auction?
All receipts going to WWP of course.
 
Here is the approval notification I just received....
"We are pleased to inform you that your event application has been approved by Wounded Warrior Project® (WWP). As an approved Proud Supporter, you will have access to a myriad of tools through the WWP Proud Supporter Community. Please click here to access our secure online network for you and other Proud Supporters! "
 
Comments....suggestions....

Good day in the shop.  Here are a few sequence shots of how I am building the tops with planked sides.
 
1st Pic....Split shot showing the block of pine wood as it is marked on both sides before being shaping into the form used to build the sides.  Note, the thickness of the block is exactly the height of the finished top.

 
2nd Pic.....After shaping the block and fitting the 16 vertical planks equally spaced around the form and beginning to fit the first row of planking.  Note the glue used to fit these vertical planks is diluted to facilitate removal later.  Also note, I have begun with the form placed upside down on a metal surface in order to keep the outer edges of the starting planks perfectly aligned.  Also note the alternating pattern of end cuts.

 
3rd Pic....The pattern of the planks is more evident showing the third row being fitted.  The joint gaps are desired as glue cavities for the outer vertical planks. 

 
4th Pic.... Split shot showing the removal of the block form with very course rasp bits.  
Note in the left shot, the outer "seam" at each of the 16 joints has been sanded flat to provide a good glue surface for the vertical planks.
Note in the right shot, the outer vertical planks have been fitted before final removal of the remaining pine form material.

 
5th pic.... There you are.  Ready for floor piece, knees, and top rail, to be fitted....not included herein.

Shaping the bottom fitting requires a bit of fiddling in order to get a snug fit.  Note the indexing mark and piece of tape (obvious reason).  Cutting the shape staying about 1mm outside the marks, then beveling the bottom edge inward to match up to the beveled sides. 

 
Not a bad fit here (both sides)

 
Finally, using the crosstree assembly, marked the opening and cut the hole. 
Final note, you can see that I have greatly reduced the size of the knees compared to the foremast top. 
Yea....Gonna have loads of fun trying to rip those puppies out and re-doing without tearing anything up. 
My original thought was to make them fat enough to treenail them.... another foolish thought on my part. 

Shaping the bottom fitting requires a bit of fiddling in order to get a snug fit.  Note the indexing mark and piece of tape (obvious reason).  Cutting the shape staying about 1mm outside the marks, then beveling the bottom edge inward to match up to the beveled sides. 

 
Not a bad fit here (both sides)

 
Finally, using the crosstree assembly, marked the opening and cut the hole. 
Final note, you can see that I have greatly reduced the size of the knees compared to the foremast top. 
Yea....Gonna have loads of fun trying to rip those puppies out and re-doing without tearing anything up. 
My original thought was to make them fat enough to treenail them.... another foolish thought on my part. 

I am sure your suggestion of waxing the form would work Omega.
I am much more interested in not having the vertical planks move around during the fitting of the side planks. A lot of handling and measuring and pressing goes with the process. Moderate "sticking" is a good thing.
Aside from all that, there's not really much value in salvaging the form if one isn't planning to build another model having same tops....just another "boneyard thing" gathering dust. I've got "boneyard things" I have no clue what they were ever used for.
Why do we keep all that crap?

Good day in the shop.  Here are a few sequence shots of how I am building the tops with planked sides.
 
1st Pic....Split shot showing the block of pine wood as it is marked on both sides before being shaping into the form used to build the sides.  Note, the thickness of the block is exactly the height of the finished top.

 
2nd Pic.....After shaping the block and fitting the 16 vertical planks equally spaced around the form and beginning to fit the first row of planking.  Note the glue used to fit these vertical planks is diluted to facilitate removal later.  Also note, I have begun with the form placed upside down on a metal surface in order to keep the outer edges of the starting planks perfectly aligned.  Also note the alternating pattern of end cuts.

 
3rd Pic....The pattern of the planks is more evident showing the third row being fitted.  The joint gaps are desired as glue cavities for the outer vertical planks. 

 
4th Pic.... Split shot showing the removal of the block form with very course rasp bits.  
Note in the left shot, the outer "seam" at each of the 16 joints has been sanded flat to provide a good glue surface for the vertical planks.
Note in the right shot, the outer vertical planks have been fitted before final removal of the remaining pine form material.

 
5th pic.... There you are.  Ready for floor piece, knees, and top rail, to be fitted....not included herein.

Hi Stu....Glad to see you decided to finish this model for your daughter. It will become a family treasure one day.
As for the planking errors, don't concern yourself too much with the first layer (assuming you are going to double plank her). That first layer only serves as a shaping base for the outer skin. Use wood filler to get everything nice and smoothe and even. Again, don't concern yourself with how any of first planking looks.
Cheers

Thank you sir for sharing that unique method of creating perfect treenails. Very impressive indeed.

Update – 03/28/14

Well, Murphy’s Law bit me on the *** big-time Wednesday night. Somehow I managed to topple the superstructure & foremast from the model to the floor and the damage to the foremast is almost non-repairable (see photos from earlier post). The superstructure only had a minor injury overall and that’s been repaired. It will require some touchup painting, but that was going to take place anyway a couple nights from now.

Bottom line, I’ve started to build a NEW Foremast. Rather than repair the existing one, I’ve decided to go from scratch once again. Only, this time the platforms will be made from brass bar, rod, and PE, and rather than solid styrene, will incorporate PE grating which is closer to the actual masts than my solid styrene plastic ones were.

So, I’ve already soldered together the framework of the lowest platform and have sized and cut the upper and lower masts from brass tube. These will be drilled for the various support legs rather than depend on cryo to hold everything together.

I do not have PE grating that is large enough for the entire platform, but will have to make the platforms out of various pieces and cut to size. Since there is grating available for the WWII inflatable raft baskets which won’t be used on the model (both kit PE and Pontos Detail Up Set), I have enough to complete the 3 platforms I need. I hope to be able to salvage the various radars on the damaged mast rather than making all of those again. I've got an order in for 1/32" sq. brass bar that should be here next weekend.

Tonight’s photos show the 1st platform frame w/the lower and upper masts in place. It looks nasty now, but when painted I think will be better the 2nd time around. I’ve also taken time to ensure that the support legs are as close as possible to the actual mast – something many photos I have for reference are still hard to decipher since very few photos are close ups from different angles of the mast. One most helpful is actually one I took in 1969 looking up at the mast from the port 03 level. This photo shows the various platfoms on the mast and their grating, as well as positions of the yardarm and it’s components.
 
One other note regarding the hull of the 1:200 Trumpeter kit - another modeler has done a 3D solid model comparison (using Solidworks) of the kit hull superimposed at the same frame locations as recorded in drawings of the IOWA class offered by Floating Drydock (can't recall the draftsman of these plans). The differences in the two patterns are noticeable, but in my opinion not to the extent that I would be willing to chop off the lower stern of the kit hull up to Turret #3 in order to correct these distortions. I plan to go ahead and build the model with the kit hull intact. I have some other ideas about how to display the model so that any "smarty pants" viewing it will realize what's going on and keep their opinions to themselves. I have too much $$ tied up in this project to try and mess something up further rather than just moving ahead with caution.
 
Further - I have determined that the Light Gull Gray (Testors) that I was planning on using for the Haze Gray is not correct. I have tested and will incorporate Testors Light Ghost Gray as the Haze Gray paint for this model. It will also give me an opportunity to learn how to use my 12 year old "new" Badger airbrush outfit for the first time. Ghost Gray is not available in spray can.
 
Hank