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Paul0367

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Everything posted by Paul0367

  1. Paul0367
    Hi Dave. Your comment, I might have another go, sounds very familiar. Ive purchased a ton of wood for all my turn backs, although its never the quality of the wood provided in the kit. As for not using/ forgetting advice, that old saying comes to mind, you can lead a horse to water. Ha ha. Andy mentions the thread and lack off it, I hope his is the correct colour to start with and not like mine, GREEN.
  2. Paul0367
    Artistic licence but looks fine to me and let's face it whom going to know otherwise. The painting makes me think, should I have done, does look good painted.
  3. Paul0367
    Oh the flag storage cabinet was a much needed upgrade
  4. Paul0367
    I have had to go back and tackle the canons and the ropes that are used to prevent them running around the decks. I have only fitted the main ropes so far. I have also decided on the 11th hour to add the bolts on top of the canons just to get rid of the flat look of the brass plates. Also i've made some brackets which carry the spare sail spars on the main channel.. Quickly eating up all the kit supplied brass strips with all the additions. One last picture of the hull, emblazoned with canons, yep still doors to fabricate.
  5. Paul0367
    I did a canon count and lost 3, looked everywhere to no avail, even started to look at out sourcing some more, just couldn't understand how and where. look at the pictures above, yes they were in the hull at the top to see if the links got in the way.... Age i'm thinking
  6. Paul0367
    I still haven't finished my side windows, its a nightmare job which if you remember I torn mine apart as I got a miss match with the side. cutting the strips so thin and even takes a long time and cursing.
  7. Paul0367
    Hi Dave The chain links are not difficult just a bit taxing, made worse due to how many I will be hoovering up when I access behind the desks. They are small and blend into the carpet when they fall in full view but fall behind something and its start a new one time. Please note ! I copied my plans for positioning my forward rails, they were drilled, cut, then the deadeyes were all fitted before I realised the chain links were going to cross the path of two canons. Look carefully and remember some do not come straight down and are angled, this angle can cause them to cross the canons. I'm not sure if this becomes more of an issue following the book rather than the plans where the kit places the plates, well there aint no plates but places the links. Just keep an eye out you don't do the same
  8. Paul0367
    Wow. Looking nice, takes me back seeing her like that. There is loads of small stuff to do with very little visual impact on the model, people look and say its not changed since I last saw it, after spending months on canon carriers and railings and deadeyes and linkages and grates and belay pins and the racks they reside on, never ends, that said you Keep it u, this is the fun part. Finding somewhere to put it afterwards is where the problem really start.
  9. Paul0367
    Its been a while since ive been posting my wears, I have had quite a few nights off from the link and preventer factory, I needed to, these need patience as always so the break helped. I have used the book, the anatomy of a ship, as a reference to position the chain links and preventers as close as possible to the real vessel
  10. Paul0367
    Well I have made another back track, I was just never happy with the sky light I made to the kit spec, to big and bulky. The old one is sat behind, this new one was modelled from the book, the Anatomy of a ship.
  11. Paul0367
    Ta Dar, just playing with software, get the images in the same place and bingo, effective
  12. Paul0367
    Portside deadeyes ready for the chains and preventer links.
  13. Paul0367
    Yes, I'm still going at the chain links and preventer plates. This is a job that needs many, many measurements prior to cutting and drilling. Only another 30 to install and I'm ready to move on, many whom are building this kit may notice that the kit doesn't have the links on the smallest two sets of boards at the aft of the ship , as always this is an error. These small boards have chain links as there larger neighbours do. Please note. Looking back It looks like I blanked the questions above made by Andy but I emailed the reply.
  14. Paul0367
    I have now moved to the port side and the same centre section of dead eyes rather than do all one side first. I made a paper template to tranfer the position accurately to the opposite side, I also have done the same with the preventer links to ensure the angles match. These chains are not as the kit intended but as the real vessel has been done. If your to do the same, order some brass wire, this method uses more and also for the inevitable waste as you make your links and are not happy with them. OH! Buy brass, unlike me who was ensuring I got 0.5mm but didn't pay attention to what I actually ordered, yes I got copper.
  15. Paul0367
    Rich (Fxitgood) emailed you pictures and tips, hope they help
  16. Paul0367
    First attempt at chain links and preventer links, time consuming but hey what isn't on these models. An image of one of my several chain link rigs I use consisting of pins ( several scratches down my arms as I catch them as I reach over. I'm no professional by any means but I'll post my methods 1/ Small pliers to make a tiny loop at the very end, loop it around the first pin and wrap it around the second pin and Back to the first loop. 2/ Remove from the pins, tape to a metal surface to prevent loosing the piece. (metal as you need to hammer it). 3/ Don't use snips, however small, mine are, they still cause a flair effect as the crush the wire. We need it flat. Use a blade where the loop meets the returning wire ( see Pic) and tap it with a pin hammer, hence metal surface and taping it down. It would be gone into carpet land otherwise. 4/ Tiny dot of solder, I didn't braze, it's so small and on the bend you really don't see it. You painters have no such issues. (I STOPPED BRAZING THEM VERY EARLY ON AS I GOT THE JOINT AT THE REAR AND SMALLER AS I GOT USED TO DOING THEM. ALSO THE VERY SMALL HEAT DOES CAUSE THE BRASS TO TARNISH ) 5/ Bend the hull touching edge to angle the piece to the dead eyes. 6/ Use a hand pin drill, feed the tiny drill bit through your link, check all is the correct length where the chain plate will fit. Twist away. 7/ Fit your preventer link to your required angle for that particular dead eye and pin drill your lower hole. Ok, many will say, we know, but every little helps ****** Please note the three nails on the chain links nearest the centre of the ship need cutting down so they don't show on the inside as they will be seen from the deck, trust me, mine did and I only noticed days later. This is not a problem for those fitting the links as per kit instructions as there fitted lower.****** Hope this does
  17. Paul0367
    That's the very site, I purchased the Artesania ones, ( they look the same ) there quite wide but short @ 6mm lengths which renders them useless for me, (ref AL8834). I saw the page you are referring too, It explains to me now why some finished models have just one main solid link marrying two smaller loops at either end ( these must be purchased ones rather than scratch built ) these would work out quite expensive and would still require tweaks for your particular model on some links. The Victory though actually has one loop at the top on the dead eye and two main links, one at the top looping the dead eye and the other directly onto the hull with a preventer link or bolt only on some under less stressed. Regards the preventer links being wider than mine, look at the image above post 364, the top image shows the purchased link on the far left hand side ( like a bicycle link ) and the difference to mine. Making your own plates maybe the best route.
  18. Paul0367
    Thank you Rich, Are you coppering the hull, If so any problems or questions I'd be happy to help, I've many pictures and as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.
  19. Paul0367
    Well, I ordrered some preventer links, bingo easy life with a stock part, Sobeit from another kit manufacturer, well erm no, there too short and far too wide and a waste of money really. But since,,, Josh has given me the news I didn't really want to hear when asking him where he sourced his, hoping he found the perfect ones. NO and yes he fabricated them from the brass strips in the kit. Only one thing for it, follow Josh's lead. The first image shows the small preventer link I purchased on the left, how small (6 mm) and thick it is, it actually looks like the link of a push cycle chain, I've seen beautifully built models, really stunning looking models, only for it to be fitted with these, sorry if you read this and you did fit these, seriously, you can still pull them off. PLEASE.
  20. Paul0367
    Yes the mast do tilt back slightly, imagine the mast under load as the sails drag her along, they allowed for this by having a rear ward tilt. Look at the image in yellow behind the messages it too shows this.
  21. Paul0367
    I've changed my direction to avoid the tedious canon rigging saga that's to come.. So what next, dead eye Installation to start. Again I've deviated from the kit as it's just not accurate at all, there is no effort to put chain links or chain plates on. ( instead just a twisted brass wire) This is to be addressed, starting work the deadeyes, these smiley face looking guys should just have a loop below for the chains to attach to. I have shown pictures of how I ensured the guys sat there without jumping up. Made the loop with an arm extending and drilled the board and slid it in followed by the capping. Look I would like to take the reward for this idea but I pinched it from another site.
  22. Paul0367
    I am intending on fixing mine to the hull internal walls also, I fabricate my own rings to keep the scale. It will be tricky but I will try, worse case cenario I can do as you said and just glue a ring.. Will be fun trying to rope them up under there.
  23. Paul0367
    I believe all of them are red inside,
  24. Paul0367
    Had to sort the ropes
  25. Paul0367
    Both sides done with the smaller blocks. ( I also preferred) Just all the canons on the deck below and main deck to do 16 total. Trouble with this particular kit there was no way these could have been done before the deck went on as it goes on before any planks are fitted, leaving us with no reference point or anything to fit them to. Just a very difficult access area. Looking back I,m going to tidy the coils of rope and have them evenly matched on both sides.

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