Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

_SalD_

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    757

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    Very nice Patrick
  2. _SalD_
    Thanks Augie. He's a good guy and he's learning a lot so I think we'll keep him around.
  3. _SalD_
    I decided not to use the laser cut margin plank that was provided with the kit because it would have required quite a bit of sanding to make it fit. I used the remaining 1/16” thick sheet of basswood I use for the cap rail to make the margin plank in one piece. I used a paper template to get the shape of the bulwarks and then traced it onto the wood sheet. It was then cut out, sanded to fit and glued in place. We had one minor glitch with the margin plank when the apprentice carpenter, who was responsible for measuring it's length, appears to have used a tape measure with the first few inches broken off. Subsequently, the margin plank was a little short. Now this shipyard’s owner is very frugal and not wanting to spend the money for new planks decided to install a deck plank at the stern, athwart of the main deck planking to fill the gap. Similar to an edging plank in your hardwood floor. Moving on.... After reviewing some of the build logs here on MSW I decided to place the deck planking similar to what Thomas (Gahm) did on his Syren, that is to follow the bulwarks with the planking toward the stern of the ship. I like how this looks so I thought I would give it a try. I would also like to thank Thomas for giving me a few pointers. I don’t know if this is newbie over design but to help me keep the planks in alignment I pasted little tick strips along each bulkhead marking the location of each plank. Since most of the first four planks on either side of the centerline will be covered by deck furnishings I decided to install each of them in two pieces. The ends of each plank meet at bulkhead ‘D’ where they will be covered by a grating hatch. The planks towards the stern were sanded down to fit the curve of the bulwarks with the aid of a template. All other planks will be installed cut to length per my layout drawing. My planking ‘shop drawing’ to help me keep track of which plank I’m working on and where the butt ends are located.
  4. _SalD_
    Thanks Tom, I appreciate it. and thanks for all the likes.
  5. _SalD_
    Ship is all repainted and ready for the deck.
  6. _SalD_
    Timbers, nice to have another Syren build to follow. I like the foam board idea but I'll have to stay away from the microwave unless I want to risk bodily injury. I also hope the lighting works out for you it will be interesting to see.
  7. _SalD_
    I don't wish to bore you with this but after doing a little more reading on deck planking and downloading and reading through Chuck’s original build log I think I have a path forward on my deck layout. Below are three layouts of different deck patterns. The first is Chuck's layout, the second is a 4 butt shift and the third a 3 butt shift. Treenails between the joints are not shown for clarity. In Chuck’s original build log he uses a three butt shift but uses the bulkheads instead of the ‘actual’ deck beams to space the joints. I believe that’s the same conclusion I came up with after drawing his plank pattern but just didn’t know how to explain it as well. Chuck’s log (star date 2007): I also read a few articles from Practical Shipbuilding, by A. Campbell Holms, on deck joints and in Article 336 it states: Being a structural engineer myself it’s hard for me to ignore rules and specifications (much too anal) so in a round-a-about way, what I’m trying to say is that I’ve decided to use the four butt shift pattern, shown above, for the deck on my model. With the four butt pattern there are not as many joints that will fall off the bulkheads as with the three butt pattern. And in reality with the balsa fillers I have between the bulkheads there will only be four or five joints that won’t have any support beneath them. All that being said, now I have to go and actually do it.
  8. _SalD_
    popeye, just catching up with your build, gorgeous! I also appreciate that you show how you build the pieces, great work.
  9. _SalD_
    STSCM, welcome to the club. I'm finding this model to be a fun build and a challenging one. Good luck.
  10. _SalD_
    Augie, Dirk thanks for the input. Augie your right I forgot to show the treenails at the intermediate bulkheads (lots of holes) and Dirk I didn’t show the cut outs but I should have. I’m still scratching my head over this but I did lay out Chuck’s planking pattern to compare it to the one I did. After I did this I realized (I think) why he did it that way. On the 4 butt shift the butt ends of the planks don’t always fall on the ‘supplied’ bulkheads but in between on the ‘imaginary’ ones. Where as in Chuck’s pattern the butt ends all land on the ‘supplied’ bulkheads. If I use the 4 butt shift I would need to provide supports at the end of the planks where they missed the bulkheads or use and unusually long plank to keep the ends on the bulkheads. So for now, seeing that this is my first deck planking attempt, I’m leaning towards Chuck’s layout but I'm still reading. I also understand Augie’s point that sometimes you can’t go with 100% accuracy at these scales.
  11. _SalD_
    I’m a bit confused, not the first time and I'm sure it won't be the last. I’ve been reading up on laying the deck planking from various sources and it appears that the two most common patterns used were the ‘4 butt shift’ or the ‘3 butt shift’ systems. Chuck recommends using the ‘4 butt shift’ in the instruction manual. Now maybe it’s me and I realize that reading a couple of books in no ways makes me and expert on decking, but… the planking layout shown in the manual doesn’t appear to match either the ‘3’ or ‘4’ butt shift pattern above. Depending on which pattern you use, you would have either three or four planks in between repeating butt joints, the manual shows only 2. Using the 4 butt shift pattern above and a plank length of approximately 20 feet I came up with the pattern shown below. I would appreciate any comments, pro or con, or just hit the 'likes' button. Please let me know if I’m totally off base and should keep reading. Thanks
  12. _SalD_
    Finished the inboard planking and gave it a couple coats of paint. I made the cap rail in one piece from a basswood sheet that was 3”x24”x1/16” thick. I used a heavy card stock to trace the top of the bulwarks instead of the wood sheet itself because it was a bit more flexible than the wood and less expensive if I messed it up. I cut the card stock pattern out, traced it on the wood sheet and then cut the rail out with an x-acto knife and sanded smooth. While the cap rail glue was drying I made the 1/16” square molding strips that go along the outboard edge of the cap rail. I pretty much made these strips similar to the smaller molding strips at the stern by using my drafting triangles to hold the strip steady, then scoring the wood with an x-acto knife and then forming the groove with the compass point held in a mechanical pencil. The only difference was that for these strips I borrowed an idea from Richard’s (rtropp) build log and used a small piece of sandpaper folded in half to clean up the groove. Before I start the decking I’m going to repaint everything (where's Earl Scheib when you need him) . The sheer plank, the stern cap rail and the upper wale got pretty beat up while installing the inboard planking and cap rail. Now I know why Dirk recommended not painting the black until everything was installed. Live and learn.
  13. _SalD_
    Thanks Augie. I need to give Dirk credit for the sheaves, if it wasn't for his build log I would have never thought of doing it.
  14. _SalD_
    Started chapter 7 (inboard planking) by thinning the bulwarks to the required thickness. Prior to sanding I placed the fillers strips at the stern per Chuck's instructions and also placed some filler at the bow, as Dirk recommended, to help with placing the planks in the bow. After placing the first 3/16” plank I cut pieces to fit around each sweep. While placing these strips I used a 1/8” spacer to keep all the sweep opening consistent. For the remaining planks I used the pieces left over from the hull planking. Being consistent, I planked over the gun ports and cut them out later. I also made up the two sheaves located at the stern and cut the opening in the planking.
  15. _SalD_
    Robert, I used 1/8" square stock on either side of the sweeps. Much simpler and saves a lot of sanding. I also used a temporary 1/8" square filler between the other two to get the openings consistent, just take it out before the glue sets up.
  16. _SalD_
    Nice job Brian, the grating looks a lot nicer with the edges finished off.
  17. _SalD_
    Just in case you missed this in the 'New to Hobby' forum I decided to change my screen name. Normally when I sign up on a new website I never know if I’ll like it, or if it will have any useful information, or if I’ll ever return to it, so usually I’ll just pick a name out of the book that I am currently reading. When I registered on this site, about a year ago, I was reading ‘The Complete Sherlock Holmes and the Complete Tales of Terror and Mystery, by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and being that I wasn't crazy about using Sherlock Holmes I went with Dr. Watson. Now that I use this site quite frequently I felt that with my old screen name of ‘DrWatson’ people might mistakenly think that I am in some way connected to the medical profession or have an advanced college degree. Either of which are true, or close to it. So, in order to not to misrepresent myself I will, or have, changed my screen name to _SalD_.
  18. _SalD_
    Thanks Jim. I didn't put two and two together when we met at the meeting but then at home I remember you had mentioned you were from Winsted and then it clicked. It take a while for the old gears to mesh sometimes. Welcome to CMMS.
  19. _SalD_
    Tom, Augie, RR, Thomas & Joe, Thank you all for the kind words and thanks to all for the 'likes'
  20. _SalD_
    Thanks Dirk, it took me a few tries but patience and persistence pays off.
  21. _SalD_
    After chapter 5, chapter 6 seemed like a breeze. I carved the groove in the molding strips using the method Chuck describes in chapter 10. I don’t have a picture of it but to secure the strip while I carved it I sandwiched it in between to drafting triangles taped to the table top. After carving them I made up a little jig to pre-form the strps to the correct curve. Once they were dry I glued them in place. On the second layer transom I needed to sand down the inside edge somewhat. This is because when it was held in place it overlapped the upper outboard corners of both gun ports. When sanding it down I took the liberty to shape it a little differently by increasing the width between the ports. I thought it might help when placing the carving on it. Next I attempted to bend the stern cap rail. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. First attempt. Thought I could do better. Second attempt. Thought I knew what I was doing. Like they say, third times a charm. Satisfied with the cap rail I made the fashion piece(s). Again like the first layer fashion piece I made it in one piece. Glued it all together, filled the gaps with wood filler, sanded it, couple coats of paint and finished with chapter 6.
  22. _SalD_
    Doing a little researching I did find some interesting information on 'cold-bendable hardwood' (see links below). It seems that you can bend this wood into any shape you'd like as long as it doesn't dry out (+20% moisture content). Once it dries it will stay formed. They only sell large sizes and it is expensive. http://www.puretimber.com/
  23. _SalD_
    You and Jack Benny...Happy Birthday Patrick .
  24. _SalD_
    This is the only place on earth I could find bendable beechwood. I think it might be a bit to far to go. Modulor Material Total, Prinzenstr. 85, 10969 Berlin, U Moritzplatz. But I'll keep on looking. Thanks Dirk.
  25. _SalD_
    Thanks Tom I appreciate you looking in. Augie, I've had the strip for the cap soaking for a week now , do you think it's soft enough? I will heed your words of advice and be patient. Thanks

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...