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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. great looking deck Jesse, good work on the nibbing too.
  2. Gun port framing looks terrific Gondorph. And like Augie said don't worry about how long it takes just enjoy the time you spend working on her.
  3. Thanks Joe, I'll try and finish by the next meeting.
  4. After making a number of blocks with hooks for the carronade tackles I decided to make up a couple tackles to ensure they were going to work. I am using the kit supplied 3/32” blocks with Chuck’s 3mm hooks from Syren. I’m glad I did this because I discovered a slight problem. I found that I positioned the upper sled too far forward on the lower sled which made the outhaul tackle very tight. The upper sled was originally positioned that far forward so the barrel of the carronade was slightly beyond the outboard planking of the gun port. Not being able to make the tackles any smaller I decided to reposition all the upper sleds farther back on the lower sled. Using an x-acto chisel blade I carefully pushed it between the two sled parts wiggling it side to side as I pushed. I’m glad I used white glue to fasten these to pieces together. I repositioned the upper sleds with the barrel of the cannon just flush with the exterior of the gun port thus giving me a little more room for the outhaul tackle. In retrospect I should have positioned the eye bolts for the outhaul tackles on the sled as far back as possible and spread the eye bolts on the bulwarks a little wider to provide as much length as possible for the tackles.
  5. Dan, great work so far. I was wondering how do you keep the planking from sticking to the wooden plug while gluing it in place?
  6. Nice work Max the windlass looks great. I'm not sure about the anchor questions off hand, I think I had found something about it but I need to look through all my old notes. If I find anything I'll let you know.
  7. Max, I'm glad you like the ship, it's quite a step up from the Phantom. One of the main reasons I purchased the Syren was because of the detailed instructions that came with it and Chuck does an excellent job of explaining each step. You can go to the Model Expo site and download the instructions if your interested prior to purchasing the kit. I think too that just as long as you have some basic knowledge of ship building and model making (and a lot of patience) you shouldn't have any problem building this kit. There is also this forum that is most helpful for looking at previous builds and for answering any questions you may have. Best of luck
  8. John, just went through your build log, very nice. You have some great details, the tryworks, the whale boats and one of my favorites, the hp 11C. I've used mine since the '80's and can't understand why everyone doesn't use RPN.
  9. Thanks Thomas. I thought it was an interesting way to seize the lines so I thought I'd try it. And thanks to all for the 'likes' it's most appreciated.
  10. Hi John, Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad you're enjoying my log. The carronades, as I understand it and by no means am I and expert on the subject, have a two piece 'sled'. The lower sled is pinned to the swivel bracket located inboard of the gun port and has the wheels at the back end. This sled travels in an arc for aiming pivoting at the swivel bracket. The upper sled with the cannon mounted to it slides back and forth along the slot in the lower sled guided by a pin. So when the cannon is fired only the upper sled moves backward and then is 'run out' again for firing. I hope this makes sense and I'm sure there are others on this forum that can give you a much better explanation. added a picture
  11. Thanks Augie, sounds like me, got most of my teeth too.
  12. Carronade breech rigging. To rig the breech lines I decided to glue all the cannons in place and not do them off the ship, pretty much how it’s described in the manual. After doing three cannons I came up with a procedure that worked pretty well for me. First I made up all the breech lines I needed for the remaining five starboard cannons with a breech ring and eye bolt seized to one end. At the other end of the line I applied some ca glue to stiffen it up to make it easier to thread through the other rings. Next I glued the breech ring’s eye bolt to the bulwark and threaded the line through the left and center breech rings. Prior to doing the right side of the cannon I glued the line to the deck on the left hand side of the cannon as Chuck did in his instructions. On the right side of the cannon I glued the breech ring to the bulwark prior to threading the line through it. I also slipped a ‘zip-seizing’ onto the line before threading it through the bulwark breech ring. 'Zip-seizing'?, you may ask. While reading Brian’s (GuntherMT) AVS log I was intrigued with his use of ‘zip-seizing’ and thought I would give it a try and it worked out rather well. Here’s a link for anyone interested in learning more about it http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8936-zip-ties-yes-or-no-for-seizings/?p=263833. Before threading the line through the ‘zip-seizing’ I glued the breech line to the deck. Once the glue was dry I tightened up the line on the breech ring and applied some ca to the seizing. Threading the line through the ‘zip-seizing’ was a challenge but with a little patience it can be done. I'm also glad I added the breech rings to the upper sled, it made positioning the breech line much easier. Starboard side finished. Port side done.
  13. welcome back to the shipyard Max things are looking good and good luck in school. you're right, green is starboard and red is port side
  14. Thomas, I thought about doing that but not for very long, nice work, keep it up.
  15. Sails look real nice Jesse, I like the flag too.
  16. Thanks for the information Brian and George. A lot to read and study.
  17. Thanks Thomas and Dirk. Need to add her back teeth now.
  18. Thanks Augie, I went back and forth on using the supplied ones or buying new ones. I guess you know how that ended.
  19. Thanks George, appreciate the compliment, as always
  20. Carronades (sorry for the long post) After much reflection I decided to upgrade the carronades from the kit supplied ones to the carronades from Bluejacket Shipcrafters. The kit carronades just appeared a bit small and wimpy. Bluejacket carronades compared to kit supplied ones. The one thing that the Bluejacket carronades do not have is the part of the cannon that the elevating screw passes through. For this part I raided my daughter’s jewelry beads and used a brass crimp bead. To help secure them to the cannons I drilled a small hole in it and glued in a pin. The other modification I made, and I’d like to thank Rod (rvchima) for posting his mishap with these same cannons on his Syren, was to remove most of the lug at the bottom of the cannon. This was done so the cannon would sit lower on the sled to be better positioned in the gun port. I also added a small pin on the bottom of the cannon to help secure it to the sled. Then painted them all The screws used to adjust the elevation of the cannon were made from toothpicks. I chucked them in my drill press a used sandpaper to thin them down. I used a bead to make sure I had the right diameter. The toothpick was cut to length and a small hole for the handle was drilled into it. For the handles I used the scrap shank pieces from shortened eye bolts. All the pieces were then assembled. Carronades are only temporarily placed. I want to drill the hole for the masts before I glue them down. If anyone is still reading I was wondering what peoples opinions were about rigging the cannons. Is it easier to do it with the cannons on or off the ship?
  21. Best of luck with the Phantom Edward. It's a lot of fun building this model.
  22. Thanks George. If I take my glasses off and take a step back I don't notice it either (lucky if I can still see the ship).
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