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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    STSCM, welcome to the club. I'm finding this model to be a fun build and a challenging one. Good luck.
  2. _SalD_
    Augie, Dirk thanks for the input. Augie your right I forgot to show the treenails at the intermediate bulkheads (lots of holes) and Dirk I didn’t show the cut outs but I should have. I’m still scratching my head over this but I did lay out Chuck’s planking pattern to compare it to the one I did. After I did this I realized (I think) why he did it that way. On the 4 butt shift the butt ends of the planks don’t always fall on the ‘supplied’ bulkheads but in between on the ‘imaginary’ ones. Where as in Chuck’s pattern the butt ends all land on the ‘supplied’ bulkheads. If I use the 4 butt shift I would need to provide supports at the end of the planks where they missed the bulkheads or use and unusually long plank to keep the ends on the bulkheads. So for now, seeing that this is my first deck planking attempt, I’m leaning towards Chuck’s layout but I'm still reading. I also understand Augie’s point that sometimes you can’t go with 100% accuracy at these scales.
  3. _SalD_
    I’m a bit confused, not the first time and I'm sure it won't be the last. I’ve been reading up on laying the deck planking from various sources and it appears that the two most common patterns used were the ‘4 butt shift’ or the ‘3 butt shift’ systems. Chuck recommends using the ‘4 butt shift’ in the instruction manual. Now maybe it’s me and I realize that reading a couple of books in no ways makes me and expert on decking, but… the planking layout shown in the manual doesn’t appear to match either the ‘3’ or ‘4’ butt shift pattern above. Depending on which pattern you use, you would have either three or four planks in between repeating butt joints, the manual shows only 2. Using the 4 butt shift pattern above and a plank length of approximately 20 feet I came up with the pattern shown below. I would appreciate any comments, pro or con, or just hit the 'likes' button. Please let me know if I’m totally off base and should keep reading. Thanks
  4. _SalD_
    Finished the inboard planking and gave it a couple coats of paint. I made the cap rail in one piece from a basswood sheet that was 3”x24”x1/16” thick. I used a heavy card stock to trace the top of the bulwarks instead of the wood sheet itself because it was a bit more flexible than the wood and less expensive if I messed it up. I cut the card stock pattern out, traced it on the wood sheet and then cut the rail out with an x-acto knife and sanded smooth. While the cap rail glue was drying I made the 1/16” square molding strips that go along the outboard edge of the cap rail. I pretty much made these strips similar to the smaller molding strips at the stern by using my drafting triangles to hold the strip steady, then scoring the wood with an x-acto knife and then forming the groove with the compass point held in a mechanical pencil. The only difference was that for these strips I borrowed an idea from Richard’s (rtropp) build log and used a small piece of sandpaper folded in half to clean up the groove. Before I start the decking I’m going to repaint everything (where's Earl Scheib when you need him) . The sheer plank, the stern cap rail and the upper wale got pretty beat up while installing the inboard planking and cap rail. Now I know why Dirk recommended not painting the black until everything was installed. Live and learn.
  5. _SalD_
    Thanks Augie. I need to give Dirk credit for the sheaves, if it wasn't for his build log I would have never thought of doing it.
  6. _SalD_
    Started chapter 7 (inboard planking) by thinning the bulwarks to the required thickness. Prior to sanding I placed the fillers strips at the stern per Chuck's instructions and also placed some filler at the bow, as Dirk recommended, to help with placing the planks in the bow. After placing the first 3/16” plank I cut pieces to fit around each sweep. While placing these strips I used a 1/8” spacer to keep all the sweep opening consistent. For the remaining planks I used the pieces left over from the hull planking. Being consistent, I planked over the gun ports and cut them out later. I also made up the two sheaves located at the stern and cut the opening in the planking.
  7. _SalD_
    Robert, I used 1/8" square stock on either side of the sweeps. Much simpler and saves a lot of sanding. I also used a temporary 1/8" square filler between the other two to get the openings consistent, just take it out before the glue sets up.
  8. _SalD_
    Nice job Brian, the grating looks a lot nicer with the edges finished off.
  9. _SalD_
    Just in case you missed this in the 'New to Hobby' forum I decided to change my screen name. Normally when I sign up on a new website I never know if I’ll like it, or if it will have any useful information, or if I’ll ever return to it, so usually I’ll just pick a name out of the book that I am currently reading. When I registered on this site, about a year ago, I was reading ‘The Complete Sherlock Holmes and the Complete Tales of Terror and Mystery, by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and being that I wasn't crazy about using Sherlock Holmes I went with Dr. Watson. Now that I use this site quite frequently I felt that with my old screen name of ‘DrWatson’ people might mistakenly think that I am in some way connected to the medical profession or have an advanced college degree. Either of which are true, or close to it. So, in order to not to misrepresent myself I will, or have, changed my screen name to _SalD_.
  10. _SalD_
    Thanks Jim. I didn't put two and two together when we met at the meeting but then at home I remember you had mentioned you were from Winsted and then it clicked. It take a while for the old gears to mesh sometimes. Welcome to CMMS.
  11. _SalD_
    Tom, Augie, RR, Thomas & Joe, Thank you all for the kind words and thanks to all for the 'likes'
  12. _SalD_
    Thanks Dirk, it took me a few tries but patience and persistence pays off.
  13. _SalD_
    After chapter 5, chapter 6 seemed like a breeze. I carved the groove in the molding strips using the method Chuck describes in chapter 10. I don’t have a picture of it but to secure the strip while I carved it I sandwiched it in between to drafting triangles taped to the table top. After carving them I made up a little jig to pre-form the strps to the correct curve. Once they were dry I glued them in place. On the second layer transom I needed to sand down the inside edge somewhat. This is because when it was held in place it overlapped the upper outboard corners of both gun ports. When sanding it down I took the liberty to shape it a little differently by increasing the width between the ports. I thought it might help when placing the carving on it. Next I attempted to bend the stern cap rail. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. First attempt. Thought I could do better. Second attempt. Thought I knew what I was doing. Like they say, third times a charm. Satisfied with the cap rail I made the fashion piece(s). Again like the first layer fashion piece I made it in one piece. Glued it all together, filled the gaps with wood filler, sanded it, couple coats of paint and finished with chapter 6.
  14. _SalD_
    Doing a little researching I did find some interesting information on 'cold-bendable hardwood' (see links below). It seems that you can bend this wood into any shape you'd like as long as it doesn't dry out (+20% moisture content). Once it dries it will stay formed. They only sell large sizes and it is expensive. http://www.puretimber.com/
  15. _SalD_
    You and Jack Benny...Happy Birthday Patrick .
  16. _SalD_
    This is the only place on earth I could find bendable beechwood. I think it might be a bit to far to go. Modulor Material Total, Prinzenstr. 85, 10969 Berlin, U Moritzplatz. But I'll keep on looking. Thanks Dirk.
  17. _SalD_
    Thanks Tom I appreciate you looking in. Augie, I've had the strip for the cap soaking for a week now , do you think it's soft enough? I will heed your words of advice and be patient. Thanks
  18. _SalD_
    Ahoy Robert, I just came across your build and welcome to the Syren club. It appears you're off to a great start. I'm a bit ahead of you so if you have any questions feel free to ask, although you're probably better off asking the masters like Augie and Thomas. I like how you're setting the gun port lintels, wish I thought of that. Best of luck.
  19. _SalD_
    Three coats of paint and I’m done with chapter 5. Chapter 6 – The Stern After sanding the stern to the required thickness I started to install the planking. I decided to place all the planks to the full width of the stern and not in small pieces around the gun ports, similar to how I installed the upper outboard hull planking. After installing the planks over the gun ports I cut a rough opening with an x-acto knife (Note to self: Don’t be so cheap! Change the blade once in a while.) and then sanded the edges to the proper width with an emery board. After finishing the planking I cut the sheer plank and upper wale for the transom filler and fashion pieces. For the transom filler I used the 1/16 x 5/32 wood strip as called for in the instructions. For the fashion pieces, after trying to get the correct shape with the 5/32 wide strip and not succeeding, I opted to use a 3/16 wide x 1/16 thick piece instead. This worked out better because with the extra width I was able to get the piece under the transom and to shape it into the correct form. I also make the fashion piece(s) out of one piece of wood instead of two. After all the pieces were glued and dried I sanded everything to the shape of the transom. Finally (I know it a little late now) I check my gun port position with the gun cutout just to make sure everything was in line.
  20. _SalD_
    Thanks Augie, when the Admiral is happy life is good. I didn't use any pre-stain. You can't see it in the pictures but the finish is a little blotchy in places. Not bad though. I glad you and the others have posted your builds so I can learn from the best. Thanks again. Thanks to all for all the likes also.
  21. _SalD_
    Thanks Patrick, the treenails are finished, that's a lot of holes! You are right the they do add a nice touch to the appearance of the ship. Thanks Thomas, I do have a few low spots in the planking you can't see in the pictures where the plating is going. I'm not sure if I should fill them in since they will be covered by the plates. I do reference your build of the Syren quite often. I used your drilling technique for the treenails.
  22. _SalD_
    Almost finished with chapter five!! The hull is sanded down and stained. Reading through a number of Syren build logs here on MSW regarding staining the hull I decided to go with a 40-60 mixture of golden oak and natural stain. I tried this mixture on some test strips and liked the shade however when I used it on the hull itself the color came out a little darker than what I was looking for. It’s not bad in fact the admiral really likes it so I guess it’s a done deal. For the treenail layout instead of drawing lines on the hull I used something similar to what Dirk did in his build. I used a transparent sheet to print out the reference lines denoting the location of the bulwark’s. Holding this sheet on the side of the hull with clothes pins I was able to make small indentations into the planking by poking holes through the plastic sheet with a compass point held in a mechanical pencil. To make the holes I used a pin vise with a 0.02 inch (0.5mm) drill bit and then rounded them out by inserting the tip of the compass point. To fill the holes I first tried a dark shade (#8 minwax) blend stick but thought the holes stood out too much. I wanted a more subtle look so I went with a lighter shade (#3) blend stick. The holes can be seen when you look at the hull at different angles so you can tell they are there, but they don’t over power the ship. Treenails on left of the gun port are the lighter shade,darker to the right. After marking the waterline (not one of my favorite tasks) I taped the hull ready for painting. Almost forgetting, I finally glued the lower deck in place.
  23. _SalD_
    Thanks Patrick and everyone for the likes.
  24. _SalD_
    I thought I would update my log while waiting for the blizzard to hit southern New England. They are predicting 20 to 30 inches by tomorrow night. Well I finally found the piece of planking I was looking for the past several weeks (the last piece). With the hull finished I moved onto the stern and completed the counter and transom. Next I added the second layer of planking to the wales. In hind sight I should have formed these planks at the same time I was doing the first set of wales and kept them for later so I could have glued them right in place. Since I didn't do that I used a set of pins that I modified to hold the plank in place after soaking. I inserted the pins along the seam between the second and third wale to give me a support for the new wale and to hold it in place while it dried. I have to apologize to the person who's log here on MSW I learned how to make the pins but I just can't find it now. Once this wale was dry and glued into place I used it to form against for the upper and lower wale. When dried they were glued in place. The sheer strake was then soaked and clamped in position until dry and then glued in place. Prior to gluing the sheer strake on I cutout the four opening for the sheaves directly below it. The sheaves were made from pear wood with a small piece of 1/8” diameter brass tube for the pulley held in place with a toothpick for the axle. They are not glued in yet, I will do that after all the sanding and finishing is done. All in all I am pleased how the hull came out for my first attempt at a POB ship. I still need to sand the hull down and do some treenailing. Something to do while waiting to get plowed out from the blizzard.
  25. _SalD_
    Thanks Patrick. Planking is a lot of work, and I thought solid hulls were tough. There were times I thought I should have started with a smaller ship but I'm almost finished. The mini sander helps a lot. Two things I always have a problem with are hand sanders and circular saws. I could never sand evenly or cut a straight line to save my life. Thanks everyone for all the likes also.

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