Landlubber Mike
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Nirvana in Keeping my head in the game.....
Not sure how I missed this one - sweet project and subject! Looking fantastic!
Hope everything is going better for you my friend!
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from mtaylor in Micro-Mark Desktop Dust Collection System
I bought this (or something similar) years ago when I was going to get into carving:
https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-DC725-Portable-Collector/dp/B000REX1UU?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AP845MBBUYCQH
I haven't used it yet to be honest as I haven't been doing any carving, so not sure how effective it is. It wasn't exceedingly loud if I remember correctly. When I do things like sand or drill or work with resin, I found putting my shop vac nozzle in a vise near where I'm working is an easier and very effective method for removing dust.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Canute in Lathe Question
I really like my Sherline lathe. The DRO is a fantastic add-on.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Canute in Micro-Mark Desktop Dust Collection System
I bought this (or something similar) years ago when I was going to get into carving:
https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-DC725-Portable-Collector/dp/B000REX1UU?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AP845MBBUYCQH
I haven't used it yet to be honest as I haven't been doing any carving, so not sure how effective it is. It wasn't exceedingly loud if I remember correctly. When I do things like sand or drill or work with resin, I found putting my shop vac nozzle in a vise near where I'm working is an easier and very effective method for removing dust.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Imperialist in IJN Asashio and Akashi by Landlubber Mike - Pit Road with Five Star and Flyhawk AM - 1/700 - PLASTIC - DIORAMA
In between other projects, I put in some more time on the Asashio. There are times when the PE work is frustrating (like when a piece pings off the tweezers and you spend a ton of time on the ground looking for it), but otherwise, once you have a routine, I find it pretty relaxing.
I added some of the piping details to the fore funnel. I replaced the kit part that runs from the funnel to the bridge with brass - I find the kit parts tend to be a little overscale, at least to my eye. I also added two more vertical pipes - one on backside, one on starboard front side - again using brass topped with funnel openings that are aftermarket.
I also finished the three main guns. Lots of PE (15-16 separate pieces per gun, not including the brass barrels). I find detailing the guns to be some of the hardest PE work in that the rails are a bit tricky to bend and get to adhere to the gun, so I'm glad this step is over though the torpedo launchers are up next. But, these came out ok I think.
Thanks for looking in!
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from mtaylor in Lathe Question
I really like my Sherline lathe. The DRO is a fantastic add-on.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Scottish Guy in Lathe Question
I really like my Sherline lathe. The DRO is a fantastic add-on.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to mugje in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
pff...such beautiful work man, you are a true artist!👍
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from hollowneck in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Wow, this is an epic build Jason! Really amazing work. 👏
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Landlubber Mike reacted to hof00 in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Thanks Mike,
The knowledge is invaluable, thank you. (I've only been doing this for 20 years or so.... 🙂)
With this "Mamoli" kit I am really forced to look at things very closely, translation of components listed also made me look extra closely.
I had another "Session" this morning sorting more Strip and Stick Wood and also came to the realization there was not going to be enough material to plank Deckhouses/Etc.
I found my own stock that should "Foot the bill".
I have been spoilt in the past with the likes of A/L, (Even Mantua), kits in the more clearly defined colors/sizes, not to mention quantity and uses of material provided,
Anyway, enough of me today,
Thank you to yourself, Jaager and Gergory for the advice and assistance.
Cheers and Regards,
Harry.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from hof00 in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Thanks for the kind words Harry. The maple I used on my Pegasus came from the former Hobbymill supplier. I believe he referred to it as "hard maple" but I could be wrong. I wanted a light colored deck, but didn't want something too stark white like holly and maple fit the bill.
The "tanganyika" (whatever it might be) is actually a really nice wood, at least the wood that was in my Caldercraft Badger kit. It works well, and really comes to life when you finish it with wipe-on poly or oil it with tung oil or the like. You won't go wrong with it.
I think Jaager is right about "walnut" - here is a picture from my Pegasus kit of the various "walnut" pieces. It's possible they are all walnut (or at least the same species), but my guess is that with the huge variation in color, they might have been different species. Unfortunately, that forced me to look to replace the kit wood so that the unpainted wood sections looked more consistent.
Looking forward to your build!
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Thanks for the kind words Harry. The maple I used on my Pegasus came from the former Hobbymill supplier. I believe he referred to it as "hard maple" but I could be wrong. I wanted a light colored deck, but didn't want something too stark white like holly and maple fit the bill.
The "tanganyika" (whatever it might be) is actually a really nice wood, at least the wood that was in my Caldercraft Badger kit. It works well, and really comes to life when you finish it with wipe-on poly or oil it with tung oil or the like. You won't go wrong with it.
I think Jaager is right about "walnut" - here is a picture from my Pegasus kit of the various "walnut" pieces. It's possible they are all walnut (or at least the same species), but my guess is that with the huge variation in color, they might have been different species. Unfortunately, that forced me to look to replace the kit wood so that the unpainted wood sections looked more consistent.
Looking forward to your build!
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Landlubber Mike reacted to Johngr in HMS Hood 1941 by Johngr - FlyHawk - 1:700 - PLASTIC
Too many very small items to be placed on the deck. The process will take some time but I have to say that the wooden deck is very nice even though in many places I had loosened it and had to re-glue it with super glue. It seems that the first gluing I did with the PVA glue did not have the result I expected. Maybe they needed more.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to Johngr in HMS Hood 1941 by Johngr - FlyHawk - 1:700 - PLASTIC
No significant progress these days. Masking the hull took a considerable amount of time and the paint had to dry completely for the next layers.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to Johngr in HMS Hood 1941 by Johngr - FlyHawk - 1:700 - PLASTIC
Too many sprues to prime!! It took almost the entire bottle of Mr. surfacer 1500. I must note that the detail in this kit is excellent.!
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Landlubber Mike reacted to Johngr in HMS Hood 1941 by Johngr - FlyHawk - 1:700 - PLASTIC
For now I installed the wooden decks by first applying a thin layer of PVA glue. I have to say they really add quite a bit to the whole look.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to Johngr in HMS Hood 1941 by Johngr - FlyHawk - 1:700 - PLASTIC
The journey has begun and I have the impression that this will be quite a long one.
Initially the two parts of the hull were glued but especially on one side the application is not perfect, leaving a very small step. I used Mr.color dissolved putty and after letting it dry for a day I sanded it down.
I have to admit that it was quite a difficult task as the surface along its entire length is not flat and in fact in a place where there is a small protrusion the surface is very small and does not allow easy access.
Nevertheless, after enough rubbing with different grits, it seems that the result will probably be better than before. Surely this will be seen when the first layer of primer falls.
The next step is to remove some surface details and open the corresponding holes once and later the supplied turned metal ones will be installed which are really excellent.
That's all for now. Good night to all.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to hof00 in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Thanks Mike,
Lovely builds!!
Yup, Maple is the very light wood, like the AL kit "Ramin"
As my above reply to Jaager, I'll go with the kit supplied Tanginika for the Deck Planking and the Maple for the Inner Bulwark Planking.
I have time on my side as I am at the early stages of the build, but it is important to have things lined up so to speak. 🙂
Cheers and Regards,
Harry.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to hof00 in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Thank you Jaager,
I did a bit more digging; the wood "Tanganika" seems to now be known as "Aningré Blanc" according to Wikipedia.
I guess I'll be using it for Deck Planking regardless....
Thank you also for your mention regarding "Maple" Obeche would appear to be what I have, which would explain the color. (Looks similar to A/L kit wood "Ramin," Inner Bulwark Planking.
I found a representative picture....
Aningre blanc alias Abam, Akatio, Aningueri blanc oder Osam
In the interim, I'll continue with my learnings.
Cheers and Regards,
Harry.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to Jaager in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Tanganika does not bring up any result on the Wood Database.
It appears to be a advertising catchall name for whichever wood the African wood supplier could provide that day.
Walnut is a wood with a similarly misleading name. It is about the color, definitely not actual tree. one of many African Mahogany-like species.
If the pattern holds, the Maple may be Obeche - especially if it is soft.
All are probably coarse grain, brittle/friable, open pore,
I predict that none of it will be rewarding to work. That it will fight you all of the way.
Ideal is a variety of low cost readily available domestic species that are hard to very hard, straight grain, fine texture, no pores.
For POB, the lower volume of wood needed allows some leeway on affordable prices for substitutes. For POF, volume for framing stock is significant.
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Landlubber Mike reacted to hof00 in Wood Color Comparison Chart
Thanks Mike,
I have not had a look at your ships yet, I have been preoccupied with resolving the Second Planking/Deck planking.
I had a "Deep Dive" into the second planking....
(The kit provides "Just enough" material in my calculations.)
In the first couple of photos the top three bundles are Walnut for the majority of the Hull. (Short the Rubbing Strakes which I am assuming is in the Strip Wood bundle, not shown.)
The second to bottom bundle, is, the only thing I can think of, is planking for the Inner Bulwarks, definitely not Maple....
The third bundle is what I am assuming is Deck Planking, (The third photo is a closer view of this material.)
Tanganika? (It doesn't even come close to the "Key" on the kit box.... 🙂)
Cheers and Regards,
Harry.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from davec in AMC DH9 by davec - FINISHED - Wingnut Wings - 1/32
That's looking really really good with the decals on. I agree with Rob - glad the white was opaque enough to not have issues with the red bleeding through. Good to know the Wingnut decals hold up well in that regard.
That's going to be quite the eye-catching model in your display case!
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Haliburton in US Light Tank M41 Walker Bulldog by Jack12477- Tamiya - 1:35 scale
That will be sweet! Definitely go for the diorama if you can.
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Canute in Fokker Dr1 by PvGAussie - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1/16 Scale
Wow, that came out great Peter! I saw your other thread and thought you had placed this one on the shelf of doom, but then saw this one and was very impressed! Fantastic job!
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Landlubber Mike got a reaction from Canute in "Sailing Memory" by thibaultron - Book Size Diorama
Very cool Ron! You're getting very good at these!
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