cobra1951

Geez, I forgot to say your new "preventer plates" look great , nice method. Now do something about those cob webs  

Sometimes I amaze myself with my own stupidity!  One track, no options. The chain plates were a perfect example. I had originally made the preventer plates by trying to hammer (flatten) a piece of wire. Perhaps in real life that's how a smith would have done it. But there is quite a difference between beating on a 1' piece of metal and beating on a 3/16" piece. Looking back at my earlier post, those things were UGLY.
 
Lightening did strike. How about taking an already flattened piece of metal and just shape it as you need it? Duh! Break out the Dremel. Break out the Foredom. Turn on the brain.
 
So we start with a brass strip and punch some guide holes.
 

 
Next, drill out the holes and grind to shape.
 

 
Took a third of the time as the previous attempt.
 
Next, getting deadeyes mounted on channels and mast tops. Due to shortages I used a combination of kit supplied and ones from Syren. Not overly thrilled with either. Wire is wrapped around and squeezed tight.
 

 
The both ends are inserted into a hole in the channel or mast top.
 

 
Trim the short end, bend the other end. This end will also be shortened to where it ends level with the top. The deadeye is turned into position. A piece of rope or chainplate can be inserted and then the end is pushed up into the underside of the top or chainplate. NO SOLDERING!  I'll show you that when I get there.
 

 
I really need to do something with these masts.
 

 

 

Hey Mike, looking at your pictures all of your deadeyes are not aligned properly. I'm not sure if you are finished with them in the pictures but you should always have one hole perpendicular to the seizing, just a heads up.

The rudder is now shaped and so is the tiller.
I predrilled the whole for the tiller and then used a flat pointed file to open up for the insert.

 

Thank you Steve for the nice word.
Yes, the oars turned out much better after another sanding and another two layers of white.
The inboard is all freehand painted, I found it trickier to mask than paint directly.
 
I looked at other long boats online of various styles and decided to go with a "three pair setup" six rowers.
Going with eight made it look cramped. I also decided to exclude the windlass and I have a surprise up in my sleeve for the long boat.
So, the oarlocks are in place and painted.


 

The oars are coming along. I think you are right- more fine sanding should do the trick. Glad to see you back at this build. I'm currently doing some tests before I paint the cap rail on mine. Did you do any masking inboard before you painted or freehand?
Steve

I like the white tips
You can always trust a coat of paint to show up any imperfections.

Sanding the burn marks is a delicate and unenviable job, trying to get rid of the burns and at the same time keeping the size and shape of the part the same as the original laser cut

I like the white tips
You can always trust a coat of paint to show up any imperfections.

Thanks Robin

Well...sometimes. On most plastic models, because decals can look bad on matt varnish ("silvering" and water and decal glue stains) and they're a pain to apply on matt. So, gloss varnish....then the decals and matt varnish to finish with.
 
Since I have to work with ropes now, I was afraid the paint can chip or wear off. Acrylic isn't that tough. 
Gloss varnish is an extra insurance, not sure it's needed, but better safe than sorry.

Question, Robin: Do you always spray a gloss layer for protection,  even if you finish it of with a matt varnish ?

Some fiddly bits well made, love it

My Caldercraft Victory build has been in the dry dock for 18 months and I'm not sure if and when I will return to it as I'm waiting for the release of Chris Watton's HMS Victory build which I'm really looking forward to building.
 
I'm currently working on HMS Pegasus but thought it would be fun to also build the Model Space 1/84 scale model of HMS Victory using the 24 month subscription. I choose this kit because there are some really useful youtube videos and it looks an really interesting build.
 
I have now taken delivery of my first month subscription and I'm now look forward to making a start on this build.
 
Pictures of the instruction manual

 
 
Pictures of the parts received with first delivery


 
 

I have never used P.B.   saw too many folks burned by their reliability.   I keep all mine on memory sticks.   we all have our days where nothing goes right.  chin up.......your doing a great job     there are lots of sites and places to buy thread and different size cordage......I hear Chuck has a good selection.  he has an add on the forum page.........check out the other adds *** well  

Some fiddly bits well made, love it

I like the white tips
You can always trust a coat of paint to show up any imperfections.

Thanks Sirius
The filler is just some cheap stuff from my local store

Thanks  Messis! I love to see more of it. I'll message you my e-mail adress.
 
Next year I'll visit the Olympias trieres and I'll make loads and loads of detail photos of her. I'll share them with anyone who like to see them.
 
Thanks again,
 
Robin

Hurray!
Well, no saw dust but painting instead.
And I am back in the right enviroment and in front of the longboat.

I dediced to go with white blades on the oars.

The oars look so smooth prior painting but obvious not.
I think a light touch of 600 grit and another two coats and the fuzziness will be gone.
 

Happy birthday Ian! I really like how these MarisStella kits have interior detail as well as exterior. She is looking very nice!

There is a way you can make good rings with brass wire.
First take something round which is the same diameter as the ring you want to make, a screwdriver for instance. Then wrap the wire around it in a spiral keeping it as tight as possible. Once done, slide the spiral off the object you chose to wrap the wire round and cut it in the place i have highlighted in the second picture, you can cut off as many as you need all the same size and perfectly round. Note in the pictures the spiral was not tight as it was only to be used for reference purposes.
 

Great job on the masts
Nice save on the broken one

Tried to sneak this one past me eh!
This looks like another good little kit, i like the way Marisstella design the way their stuff fits together
Good luck with your build

Tried to sneak this one past me eh!
This looks like another good little kit, i like the way Marisstella design the way their stuff fits together
Good luck with your build