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Solö Ruff

 

This is my build log of Solö Ruff, first an introduction of the boat itself.

This boat was built  by Storebro from a design
by Einar Runius
(1897-1967), a famous Swedish boat designer.

It´s a truly elegant, cabin-boat combining elegance with ruggedness,
roominess and comfort with the maximum in cockpit and deck utility.

In all the Solö series, a total of 2800 models were built beetween 1951 and 1964:

 

            Solö Ruff I (1951-53)
            •Length: 6,85 meters
            •Breadth: 2,00 meters
            •Displ: 1,1 ton
            •Engine: Penta BB41

            Solö Ruff II (1953-57)
            •Length: 7,00/7,15 meter
            •Breadth: 2,10 meter
            •Displ: 1,25 ton
            •Engine: Penta BB50

            Solö Ruff III (1957-1959)
            •Length: 7,35 meter
            •Breadth: 2,44 meter
            •Displ: 1,30 ton
            •Engine: 1 or 2x Penta BB70
          

  Solö Ruff IV (1959-64)                        
            •Length: 7,25 meter                                      
            •Breadth: 2,20 meter
            •Displ: 1,25 ton

 

Solö does not have any brass detailing but instead high polished steel.

This is something I will try to highlight.

She was built clinker style, either oak or mahogany. Mostly mahogany.

 

This model is based on the 1960 boat which became the most popular one.

​Solö was intended for the international market and likewise it had a huge success.

Still today many of the boats can be found at various Vintage Boat Shows. 

The most common engine was now Volvo Penta BB115. A very reliable and
strong engine. Still Solo was capable of speeds up to 24 knots, but cruised best around 15 knots

 

I hope you will enjoy this adventure with me.

 

So let’s start with intro of the model kit.

It’s a Nordic Class Boats by atlastmodels.se, manufactured by TurkModel.

Historic reference is Lennart Ivarsson, Storebro Trading

Credit should also go to Thomas Ahlander for the cover illustration.

post-967-0-57656900-1462860721.jpg

 

Upon opening the box I was greeted by a color paint schematic.

This to help with painting the boat.

post-967-0-86090300-1462860770.jpg

 

 

The build process is not provided by any means in words as we normally have an instruction booklet of some kind.

There is one sheet covering the parts and one sheet with a little recommendations, no instructions.

post-967-0-98360200-1462860805.jpg

 

The building process is very much like Billing Boats with sketches instead.
But everything is easy to understand and straight forward.

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The hull is built in two halves to be glued together.

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Totally there is 8 sheets A3 format as for instructions.
Solo can be built either as a static model or as a RC.
She will be built as a static.

 

All pieces except for the planking is laser cut to high quality.

​Edit: planking is laser cut as well due to profile and port/starboard separation.
Some of the parts almost falls out by gravity.

post-967-0-00956500-1462860944.jpg

 

 

 

I am extremely happy and surprised by the keel piece.

Even though the box itself is on the edge of being too small.

The keel is straight as an arrow.

So there is nothing to worry about in that matter.

The kit is a plank on frame.

I haven’t decided yet how to approach the engine as it would be great to have a 1:10 scale engine inside of her.

How and where I would find such I don’t know. I will probably leave it out or make a coarse dummy.

post-967-0-83288200-1462860985.jpg

 

All the metal pieces are made out of Britannia metal.

There is a flag that is accurate color wise.

post-967-0-14618500-1462861093.jpg

 

 

 

Included in the kit there is actually soft material for cushions.

post-967-0-69840800-1462861140.jpg

 

Now before starting anything:

Here is some stats about the kit.

Length: 72 cm, 2’ 4 11/32

Width: 22 cm, 8 21/32

Height: 20 cm, 7 7/8

Weight finished: ? Kg and ? Lbs

 

The first thing is now to get a build foundation for the two halves.

For that I am using shelf parts from the old office.

It will work for now.

 

I will also start working on varnish test as I like to get as close to the dark mahogany finish as possible for the hull.
The deck will have a light finish. For the varnish I will start with Min-Wax products.

 

Any questions and input is as usual very welcome.

Edited by Nirvana
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  • 4 weeks later...

Due to an accident, I am short of five parts for planking.

Because of this I don't feel to work forward.

I am currently in contact with the retailer for the kit, who in their turn are in contact with manufacturer for replacement part.

I hope this will have a positive outcome.

If not, I have taken pre-active measures to have other material available.

As for price of the extra material I am not that thrilled, but I think the final finish will truly justify the extra cost.

Considering the original boat had mahogany planking my solution should be fine.

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When I had problems with my "Bohuslän" I contacted the Swedish company NCB. What a bunch of @#*!s. The respons was something like "oh, how bad..."

 

I then contacted the Turkmodel, they who make the models for NCB and they sent parts at once with apologies and "if there are any more problems contact us at once..."

So try contacting them directly...

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  • 6 months later...

An old shelf from the previous office will work as a build table.

It's wide enough to hold both sides.

I added on with waxed paper to avoid any glue to get stuck to the build area.

post-967-0-74683500-1482185036.jpg

In order to keep everything straight, I drilled two holes in the false keel and tighten it down with two regular wooden screws.

post-967-0-23849900-1482185114.jpg

 

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I am so glad I bought some Lego some years ago.

Perfectly square unless there has been a production problem or "you might have had" them little to close to a heat source.

That's not the case today.

The bulk heads for the port side are all in place.

I am using Titebond II.

I have also decided not to make her a RC model. She will be a static model for the office.

The first picture shows how bad the laser setting has been while cutting, the chard is hard and tough to sand down without removing to much material.

post-967-0-58426700-1482190491.jpg

Picture 2-4 is showing the Lego support but also the stringers to align the bulkheads.

They are spot on! They are not glued down just inserted, to much char to get any good glue connection.

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post-967-0-85862400-1482190828.jpg

post-967-0-65609900-1482190853.jpg

Now it's time to turn the build table and repeat for the starboard side.

 

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Progress during the day and evening.

Even the Admiral was impress once back home from events.

The sanding of the laser chard was a progress itself as this hull is clinker shaped.

If each frame/bulkhead would have circular shape it would had been a faster process.

Now the two sides are done.

Resting time until planking.

Strange how the smell of laser chard dust clings to your body while sanding.

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The tabs for the propeller and rudder shaft is to removed once the hull is assembled and planked.

post-967-0-32854200-1482301599_thumb.jpgpost-967-0-89367000-1482301611_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

So, I am back to my Solö, and got started working on her.

I am so embarrassed, not thinking it through in the beginning I made two port sides!

And I used CA gluing it all.

To my relief I was able to dissolve the glue and got everything apart without anything broken.

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Now I can build the starboard side.

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This thing is huge! I'm curious as to what detail items are included in the kit? Doing that gun deck section was cool at 1:25 - lots of items you wouldn't even consider at 1:48 or 1:64. This could be even better.

 

If you want to bash a little, you might try looking at some model car sites. A bud builds these and he adds things like miniature Car & Driver magazines, cigarettes, traffic tickets. There's a ton of little odds & ends you could add to this. Just a thought.

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I decided to deviate from the "picture instruction".

Sheet three shows how to plank the two halves, and then on sheet four it's time to join the two.

But here is where I started thinking, and went for joining before planking, this way I able to use clamps to the fullest for maximum glue contact.

Am going to bed and let this sit over the night. I never counted the clamps but I am certain there is some 25-30 clamps holding this together.P1030411.thumb.JPG.c633d1908ad6c46898857d9895dfc5be.JPGP1030412.thumb.JPG.efbac9093254a6e28ab91aa5caf28b02.JPG

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The planks provided are not labeled according to order of installation.

Only the starboard side has the numbers correctly in order, while the port side is labeled weirdly.

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Having one side correct is good enough for me but could be confusing for some who is strictly going by the numbers. Because then it will be wrong.

P1030414.thumb.JPG.e99d4ab679eca51ef6a363ac4ec9c5fe.JPG

 

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Ohoh, dry-fitting items are a good thing.

Found a production error.

On frame 5 and 6 the distance for the plank is off.

Frame 5, plank two the gluing surface for the plank is 12.75,  plank three the gluing surface for the plank is 17mm.

Frame 6, plank two the gluing surface for the plank is 17mm, plank three the gluing surface for the plank is 15mm.

With plank four the error is almost as good gone. But I need to create "frames" on the inside for support.

This seems to apply to both sides of the hull.

If you look closely on port side it is visually obvious as well.

P1030416.thumb.JPG.9bf362f334df0bb399db92fa8701d758.JPG

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There is a lot of missing instruction for someone who is building this kit for the first time, specially if you don't have any experience.

Such as to bevel the strips where they are meeting the bow on the false keel.

The first two frames and stern piece has to be beveled to in order to get maximum surface contact.

P1030418.thumb.JPG.213c99b83792ef5ace53feafe985990a.JPG

 

I used the technic of bending the planks only using heat.

I didn't use a hairdryer as Chuck does in his instruction video, but a hobby heat gun.

Worked like a charm.

 

Adding on with more pictures, some of them really makes this kit look like a monster.

 

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With the two halves joined the false keel is 8mm thick, there will be a lot of sanding/trimming and sweating to get a sleek bow.

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At this stage I stopped, it was getting late in the evening, but I diluted titebond glue with some water and applied all over inside of the planks where they were meeting.

This created a stronger bond and the planks stopped flexing between the frames.

For a 72 cm (28.5 inches) long boat, it uses only 5 frames.

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