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cobra1951
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cobra1951 reacted to foxy in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
Maybe use a plank bender, tis the best way,
Great build.
Frank
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Hennie in HMS Agamemnon 1781 by Hennie - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Hi Hennie
Very nice job on the mast alignment
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cobra1951 got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Agamemnon 1781 by Hennie - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Hi Hennie
Very nice job on the mast alignment
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Agamemnon 1781 by Hennie - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Looking good time to extra care when handling her now
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Elijah in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
You can still soak them but only for a short while because they are so thin. Too long and the water dissolves the glue. Or you could use a plank bender on them as they will only require a small bend
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cobra1951 got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
If those planks are plywood be careful when you soak them because the layers will come apart. Bending should not be too bad as it looks like the planks are already shaped to allow for the curvature of the hull
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cobra1951 got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
Nice Work on the aft castle
I see some very fiddly work coming up
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Elijah in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
Nice job, looks like a fun little build
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Elijah in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
If those planks are plywood be careful when you soak them because the layers will come apart. Bending should not be too bad as it looks like the planks are already shaped to allow for the curvature of the hull
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Elijah in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
Nice Work on the aft castle
I see some very fiddly work coming up
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cobra1951 reacted to Torbogdan in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
On each plank I have written down its number and which end points forward.
The planks are only one millimetre thick but when they are this short it is "thick" and makes it difficult to bend properly. Especially the ones that need to bend in two dimensions. Also, since everything is so small it might be difficult to use ordinary clamps.
What I will do, I think, is to sand the planks a bit to make them thinner. And then soak them of course. Then fix them in place and let dry and then glue them in place.
We´ll see how it goes because tomorrow I will start!
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cobra1951 reacted to Torbogdan in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
Yes they are plywood, hmm, did not think of them coming apart. Thanks for the heads up! I started to sand the first plank a bit. I trimmed it from 1mm to about .8mm. The ends i trimmed a bit more. I think that will be sufficient without soaking them actually. You are correct that they are shaped but they still need a bit of "bending" to fit properly.
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cobra1951 got a reaction from foxy in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
If those planks are plywood be careful when you soak them because the layers will come apart. Bending should not be too bad as it looks like the planks are already shaped to allow for the curvature of the hull
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cobra1951 reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
After installing the upper wales I planked the upper hull with yellow heart and added the lower wales. They are rosewood and measure 1.5mm X 5mm. Given the bluff bow, there was no way to easily bend the lower wales so I built them up using 2 layers of stock 0.75mm in thickness. The wales actually curve under at the counter. I'm still trying to figure our how to install fashion pieces! Hull planking below the lower wale will be holly. The photo is of Fair American planked in holly below the wale.
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cobra1951 got a reaction from marktiedens in Vasa by puckotred - DeAgostini - Scale 1:65
Colour blindness must be a great problem for you with parts of this hobby. However you seem to overcome it and do a really good job with your painting. Remember it's your build and as long as you are happy with it then that's the main thing. Keep up your good work
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cobra1951 reacted to robert22564 in HMS Victory by robert22564 - Caldercraft - scale 1:72
Hi Guys, OK...............So this is where we ended up, just to work out now where to continue Hmmm.
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cobra1951 got a reaction from foxy in Hanse Kogge by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Models
Nice Work on the aft castle
I see some very fiddly work coming up
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cobra1951 reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Knowing nothing about turning, but I was thinking something like this. I have a brass rod that is the diameter of the base of the cone. Cut off a piece and mount in a lathe chuck. Mount a cutting edge above and about 1/8" in from the right. Begin to cut at that point, moving the tool to the right and into the rod. So, a tweak to the right, a tweak downwards, repeat. It might take a few cycles but it seems like you would end up with something conical. Maybe some filing to smooth it out.
Since the cone would be mounted with the point facing upwards, you probably would not need to bore out the underside.
For full disclosure - I have no idea what I'm doing with a lathe. Do not try this at home
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cobra1951 reacted to Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Thanks everyone for your nice comment and the likes !
I have to hurry with the decorations......I wish!
We went for gold paint and normally you buy just gold.....clean and that's it !
Not with Anja at your side.....
She was coming with a typical gold.
It looks if it is on the decoration for ages !!!!!!!
But I have to say.....it looks wonderful !
I know, you want to see some pictures but you have to wait for that.
I finished the clock chair and the roof of that is also gold painted.
When the paint is dry tomorrow and I don't forget it, I wil post a picture
Sjors
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Sjors in Vasa by puckotred - DeAgostini - Scale 1:65
Colour blindness must be a great problem for you with parts of this hobby. However you seem to overcome it and do a really good job with your painting. Remember it's your build and as long as you are happy with it then that's the main thing. Keep up your good work
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cobra1951 got a reaction from Robin Lous in Vasa by puckotred - DeAgostini - Scale 1:65
Colour blindness must be a great problem for you with parts of this hobby. However you seem to overcome it and do a really good job with your painting. Remember it's your build and as long as you are happy with it then that's the main thing. Keep up your good work
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cobra1951 reacted to mikiek in HMB Endeavour by cobra1951 - OcCre - 1:54
I agree with you Bob. I've found with CA for the 'nails' and PVA down the edges there's virtually no waiting.
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cobra1951 reacted to ca.shipwright in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
Amen Yancovitch!
E.J.- I also use your #2 method. I had trouble keeping the eyes the same using the rounded pliers so I switched to wrapping the wire around a drill bit of the diameter I wanted; grabbed the 2 ends of the wire in my right hand and rotated the drill bit with my left hand. Works like a charm. Either way, these are probable the strongest eyebolts you will ever need.
I make 20 of these a day to warm up my fingers for the days work.
Regards
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cobra1951 reacted to DaveRow in HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit
What is going on ?
So have been working through on a few lashings for the stays to the masts.
I came across a dilemma with Main topmast preventer stay and the Mizzen top mast stay.
The clips(below) from the Endeavour AOTS show different methods of attaching the above stays. Page 101 in the Standing Rigging section and Pages 117 & 188 are from the Running Rigging section.
Also had a look at some of the great Endeavour builds on the site to see what others have done.
I decided to go 50/50, hope I got it somewhere near correct.
Fore Mast methods:
5mm pulley for the Main topmast preventer stay
5mm Heart for the Main Stay
Main Mast methods:
2 Thimbles and a Heart block for the Mizzen stays
Mizzen strops:
Cleats on Mizzen and Fore Masts:
Small steps.
Dave R
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