clearway

4 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

Thank you! Is this from the book you recommended? Rigging the clipper and ocean liner?

this is from a book about model shipbuilding called 'building and detailing model sailing ships by george e campbell in the u.k. and 'the neophyte shipmodellers jackstay' in the U.S.A.- not sure if it is still in print though. Also check cutty sark logs and charles w morgan logs on here as they had them too along with most mid 19th century ships onwards.

Keith

Thanks for looking in- yesterday we got a brief period of high pressure between the aftermath of the hurricanes coming across the Atlantic and mananged to get the top or capping felt on my mother in laws shed - 3 hours later the winds and rain arrived so certainly got field tested!

Today with heavy rain and high winds it was back in my den of iniquity 😁have reached the top of the sternpost with the starboard 2nd planking and am currently working on the port side till i reach the same stage. After that i will have to work out best way to run them onto the sternpost extension above the propellor cut out.

one thing ithat is better with altering the shape of occres hull is that by this stage on my HMS Terror i had to start using drop planks to get round the 'bulge'!

Looking far ahead concerning the rigging i have heard her referenced as 'merchant rigged' and Matthew Betts makes reference to the lower for yard on the Terror wreck still having its heavy iron truss so will most likely rig her like that as opposed to the Royal Navy rope trusses i rigged on Terror.

any builders of Terror who are reaching this stage should consider this as well.

Take care all 

Keith

You are certainly more organised with your shipyard than me Josh! Reference to the yard crane- also called a truss here you go:-

Hope this helps

Keith

Coming along Josh- I suspect the lower yard would have been fitted with a yard crane as opposed to how occre have it.

Keith

Thank you Hake and pull up a chair- still plodding away with the walnut 2nd planking at the moment, and due to using white wood glue whilst getting a good join it means only one or two planks an evening due to setting times!

Keith

2 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

Does anyone have any suggestions on rigging books that will benefit this model?

harold underhill's rigging the clipper ship and deep ocean carrier covers our time period and nice work on the blocks josh

Keith

Hey Keith nice to hear from you and nice to see you are still going to carry on with your little Terror. I agree and i think we discussed it back at the beginning of our logs about the weird bulge in the hull, but as you say there is an lot going on to draw the eye (however my lil Terror is on a shelf in the workshop and the bilge is right in line of sight!

The Keiths are back

Keith

Nice bit of work there Josh-  i have fitted 11 belaying pins on each pin rail but i think they should be split though not as far apart as occre have them- there will also be 8 belaying pins on the collar near the base of the mast.

Keith

1 hour ago, theoracle09 said:

I'd have 1 mm between the bottom spoke (if oriented north/south) and the deck. Is that enough space?

equates to about 3 inches give or take so won't look too weird- upto you really. The Caldercraft wheel is 24 mm across the spokes so made my brackets to fit it- look at the pics on my log of the wheel assembly to see the gap between spoke and deck which is only about 1mm or so..

Keith

6 hours ago, HakeZou said:

Storms last night and today meant that I couldn't do yardwork

Nice work on modifying the mizzen top Hake- if everything stays together without glue the gluing will only make it stronger.

Regards the weather we are catching the back end of the two hurricanes in the Atlantic now with rain followed by rain and wind followed by rain ..........

sods law last weekend when we had nice weather the builders merchant didn't have the mineral felt capping sheet in stock for my mother in laws shed (base layer is already nailed on though) - i said to her it will be in stock this weekend because the weather is rubbish and sure enough!

Keith

Well done- think it took me versions 1.1, 1.2 then 1.3 till i was happy and might even alter mine again! I used the caldercraft 10 spoke wheel but not sure how readily available they are outside U.K.- Keith S and Daniel D used 10 spoke wheels from Syren on their Terror builds.

Keith

3 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

what do you plan on using for the bow stanchion railings

i was thinking of using thread dyed with heavily diluted humbrol matt 53 gun metal paint (the enamel type diluted with white spirit).

Keith

i have yet to go on a boat or ship that didn't have handrails both sides of a laddrway so you were right to add it.

Keith

coming along nicely craig- you could add a couple of forward facing bulkheads and just plank to the bows like on my Terror- i have to agree on the instructions with these early kits , i bought Panart's Lynx in the 90s and they had modified and laser cut the parts but had included the earlier instructions!

Keith

18 minutes ago, HakeZou said:

Any idea why the mizzen mast wouldn't have had a top

looking at the model of her as built in the topsham museum she didn't have one from the start- but very common on ships (especially merchant sail)- HMS Beagle had the same set up- i suppose with no other masts up there and only the one sail (i think Matthews plans are wrong to have a mizzen topgallant mast) you didn't need a platform for the yard crews to pass?

Keith

Don't forget Hake - no top on the mizzen mast just the cross trees and trestle trees but nice work on the tops.

Keith

Good ole Cumbrian weather- from rain and cold to heatwave then back to cold and rain all in the space of a week!

The 2nd walnut planking slowly making progress down the starboard side- will start on port side now to keep the hull even.

Thanks for the likes and looking in everyone.

Keith

looking great Daniel- i bet occre hate it when we start build logs on here

Keith

20 hours ago, Greg Davis said:

I wish I had seen this picture much earlier in this build as the upper guard rail location is much higher than where I placed it (based on the kit instructions).

Yeah i have been caught out like that as well Greg- unfortunately when fresh evidence comes to light it is way too late without resorting to completely scrapping all the work to date- will have to check on My Billings Pourquois Pas where they have them- on the heller plastic kit they just have a raised plank running under the capping rail.

Keith

I have had this when using CA on my rolling stock and armour kits- i now leave any areas glued with CA facing upwards if possible to allow the vapour to evaporate off (doesn't always work though but leaves less mess)!

Keith

clear matt acrylic varnish here

well done Daniel- i remember the fun i had when applying the yellow/ black stripes to my billings HMS Victory.

Keith

welcome back Richard- i am amazed Occre havn't updated their kits with the deckhouses by now- certainly makes it look more Terror like (just reakised when i logged in my Erebus was in a Terror sandwich build log wise😁

Keith

Hi everyone- wow this heatwave hitting the U.K. at the moment is making up for a dismal July/ August! Not much happening with Erebus as either too hot, sweaty and exhausted or doing out door jobs.

Started on the 2nd planking below the shroud protector using a slightly darker less oxidised walnut but lack of energy with the heat at the moment.

Take care all and thanks for the likes and comments.

Keith

8 hours ago, jparenti said:

I really need to figure out if the tops need to be painted black or not

If painting i would paint the top white except for the upper surface of the floorboards - also the mast doubling will be white on the lower masthead and the topmast head along with the crosstrees on the topmast. I scratched new tops and cross/ trestle trees because occre had the fore and aft ends tight against the mast- you will find out when rigging the shrouds why they left a gap on the real ships- hope this makes sense.

Keith