clearway

I think Keith S drilled out the scupper holes on his Terror and Daniel D- i suspect the 5 extra holes might be to facilitate water egress from the massey pumps- i didn't add them on my Terror but will most likely add them to Erebus.

Keith

Thanks for looking in- i now have the keel pieces and altered forepeak glued in place- as already mentioned i trimmed it back below the gammoning hole to look more like the admiralty plans while altering the angle slightly to align with the altered bowsprit (also had to take a little off the scarph joints).

Sorry about the grainy finish but artificial light and my phone don't mix- OMG this means the long bright summer evenings are getting darker!

take care all.

Keith

15 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

doing so, I also noted the confirmation, finally, of circular pin rails on the masts

yep- i think that shot is showing the foremast and front bulkhead of the ritz- on other pics the mainmast has a steel spider band incorporated into the swan neck fitting for the boom. On mine i have wooden pin racks fore and mizzen but will add the steel spider band to the main (might actually replace the mizzen one with a steel band next.

As regards eyebolts on the deck- yes heavy hauling lines (yard lifts, halliards etc) would have led to a block hooked onto the deck at the base of the mast to take the strain then to the belaying pins.

Keith

16 minutes ago, theoracle09 said:

Do you mind providing some measurements on your stovepipe? It looks to scale, so what's the height from the deck and the diameter of the tube you used? Also, did you make the top bit? I've been puzzling over how to create that as I don't have any brass sheet (other than PE sprue, if you call it that).

Its an old billings stovepipe fitting altered to look more accurate- so the rain hat is turned brass from the fitting with 3 pieces of brass wire added. The pipe is 35mm from the deck with the rainhat 5mm above that- pipe diameter is 4mm.

Keith

the stovepipe is for the galley stove and is fitted towards the front of the ritz. The galley occupied the port forward side and an entry way/ staircase leading below decks to starboard with the "ritz" taking up the rest of the room leading astern- well i aint tearing my ritz off and adding the square window now😁- On the pre conversion plans i have for Polaris the plans show 3 square windows  each side on the ritz- and even the  the ones on the quarterdeck are square.

Keith

I agree Craig- on the original plans all the windows on the ritz are straight sided with slightly curved top and bottom frames and the walls are panelled - it looks like they tongue and groove planked over it and added round portholes with the one pictured left square. Regards the hatch near the ships wheel, if you look at the top picture on this page (with the gut in the hat in the doorway) you can make out the sliding hatch.

Keith

On 8/17/2023 at 7:33 PM, Andrewj said:

I woder if you could tell me where you got the safety netting support brackets. 

Hi Andrew- i bought  Victory etchings set from Cornwall Model Boats (Panart i think at 1:78 scale)

Thanks for looking in and the likes -ever had that feeling you have been here before! I stated in my Terror log that sanding the ice bumpers was like prison punishment and i am sticking with that statement😁- will be sneezing sawdust for a month!!! have trail fitted the replacement bowsprit and tried the forepeak in place - this will need the raised "humps" removed and fettled further down the stem. One thing i have noticed is that there is no slot for gammoning under the bowsprit on the admiralty plans of her so might actually remove material till the bottom of the gammoning hole on the forepeak.

starting to look a bit Erebus shaped😁

Take care all

Keith

5 hours ago, jparenti said:

I’m glad I’m doing Erebus next. I can refine my technique and correct some of the stuff I learned about while assembling this one. 

I hear ya my man😉

Keith

11 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Wow, your Admiral sounds lovely, compared to what I get called when I mention the next model project! 🤣

Oh believe me it gets worse than that😁

Keith

2 hours ago, ccoyle said:

You really just need the tiniest of divots

 my admiral keeps calling me a right divot😁

8 hours ago, jparenti said:

How do you guys usually make the sheaves in a piece of wood like the stanchions and the davit arm?

i drill two holes and remove a sliver of wood from between them to make a groove- i think daniel d actually added pulley blocks into slots but it depends on how thick the posts are.

Keith

The ice bumpers continue- only one plank a side to add now! For a change of scene i marked out and drilled the holes for the sunlights. When i compared occres 1-1 deck layout drawing compared to the admiralty plans they weren't far out- i only had to move the ones near the bulwarks a bit further inboard.

Thanks for looking in and take care all.

Keith

Nice model and great to see the 1:1 version survived the "modernisation" insanity of the 60s and 70s.

Keith

3 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

I am currently thinking that the area in green was fully decked (maybe):

That is what i have been thinking- especially after seeing the pic of the model Hakezou found with the altered deck abaft the ritz. 

Keith

8 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

After searching for a couple of hours on the skylight above the ritz I came across this link of a Tehnoart kit built by Ken Greenwood. In the pics at the link it shows the quarterdeck enclosed aft of the ritz, and has the main mast and hatch as depicted in the images in my last post. With this confirmation I'm changing the hatch on top of the ritz to be a skylight. I'm not going to be decking over like the model in the link, rather I'll stay with the gangways as represented by OcCre.

I must admit i am thinking the same way which is why i havn't actually glued anything in place regards the roof of the ritz- what threw me off is the base of the hatch does look like a covered over skylight that has been re-purposed. Also note the companionways sit on top of the decks and are not an integral part of the structure that occre have them.

I will most likely replace the hatch with a skylight as i am modelling her before the kennels and antarctic mods were made- if modelling in the ice configuration don't forget the homemade pointer to assist the helmsman on the ritz roof.

Keith

more poor weather = shipyard time😁- because i altered the stern from occres instructions  had to cut a slot in the transom planking to accept the sternpost. Also started on the shroud protector/ ice bumper- in my Terror instructions they had the distance from capping rail to bumper to narrow- they must have listened to Keith S as they have amended the distance (i had to add another 4mm due to heightened bulwark). On the sternpost i cut the ply former above the slot for the prop and added some walnut stock from my bits box- seeing as they had used laser cut walnut as opposed to ply used on my Terror kit i didn't want to ruin the finish the varnished walnut will give.

On the plans for Terror/ Erebus you can see the entry ways etc are way above deck level compared to how occre have them.

I was trying to figure a way of doing the ice bumpers better, but went with kits method in the end- however this time i am under no illusions as to how much sanding is in store for me this time!

Thanks for the likes and take care all.

Keith

Thanks for the likes and looking in- i have finished planking the deck and have the bulwarks in place, also sanded the formers at the bow though not fully to shape yet. The king plank is 5mm while the fore-aft planks are 3.5mm, the diagonals are 3mm (this is another thing i wish i had altered on Terror).

anyone building occres Terror or Erebus will notice the heightened bulwark evidenced by the two slots that should have been located in the two tabs (removed on mine) on the deck ply former- i also used an offcut of ply to heighten the transom.

Take care all 

Keith

Nice to see the MDF bulkhead survived (i was lucky with mine too)- regards the prop, could you not file the blades down as my billings prop was too wide and had to trim that down? Regards the planks ,after sanding you could use a scriber to clear the gunk from between the planks before painting (i get a similar problem when painting model railway goods wagons (freight cars to our brethren across the pond).

Keith

welcome to the ice bridge conundrum 😁

Keith

13 hours ago, AJohnson said:

Hi Keith, that does look a big improvement and your profile does look much more like the plan lines. 👍

Thanks- the one thing that never sat right when doing my Terror was the incorrect shape of the hull. 

Today sanded the hull, fitted the ply formers for the bow (still need sanded down) and having learnt from my Terror build started planking the deck using some finer planking from some of my billings builds.

Take care all

Keith

Certainly looks the part- i hear you on the flattening the aluminium tubing with the flare- why mine is still circular😁.

Keith

Thanks for the likes and looking in, the first planking is on and looks better without the weird bulge midships😁- did feel strange not running the planking from the stem and threw me out of synch a bit!

Next job is pull the pins and give her a good sanding (already done a little sanding on the forward frame and transom.

take care all

Keith

Can't beat those punishing tasks we make for ourselves Daniel- they look better flattened though. i have the joy of scratchbuilding deadeye strops for my HMS Erebus to look forward to!

Keith

Thanks to some summer weather last Thursday managed to get my messy job garden room felted😁 - which meant i could start on the planking this weekend (still around 4-5 planks to go but nearly there- after removing pins and sanding down will have to fettle the sternpost in. The railway vans in the background are 0 gauge.

Anyone who has built Terror will have noticed i have planked further up than occre state- this is because i want the bulwarks higher as just didn't feel right on my Terror.

Take care all and thanks for likes and looking in.

Keith