bluenose2
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Canute in Sanding and drilling pens
So further to this topic. The pen starts at it's lowest setting 5000 rpm. Then 10,000 and 18,000 rpm. The optional micro drill bit set has 10 bits ranging from 0.3 to 1.2 mm's. I find it also works well on resin figures. No it does not have collets but I can use the 2.34 mm Dremel and others in this unit. So far So good.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Sanding and drilling pens
So further to this topic. The pen starts at it's lowest setting 5000 rpm. Then 10,000 and 18,000 rpm. The optional micro drill bit set has 10 bits ranging from 0.3 to 1.2 mm's. I find it also works well on resin figures. No it does not have collets but I can use the 2.34 mm Dremel and others in this unit. So far So good.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Sanding and drilling pens
Hello Les here. I have a new tool to me in my must have tool box. It is the DSPIAE Electric sanding pen. It is a rechargeable mini Dremel like tool. I have used it to drill very small holes and do close grinding. For close in work it kills the Dremel or other similar tools I have. It isn't as powerful as a rotary tool but it fits very well in the hand. You can purchase a tungsten drill bit set separate. The drill was $39.97 Can and the drill bit set was $10.97 here in Edmonton. Please check it out. And no this is not a commercial. Check out their web site to find a distributor near you.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from RichardG in Sanding and drilling pens
Hello Les here. I have a new tool to me in my must have tool box. It is the DSPIAE Electric sanding pen. It is a rechargeable mini Dremel like tool. I have used it to drill very small holes and do close grinding. For close in work it kills the Dremel or other similar tools I have. It isn't as powerful as a rotary tool but it fits very well in the hand. You can purchase a tungsten drill bit set separate. The drill was $39.97 Can and the drill bit set was $10.97 here in Edmonton. Please check it out. And no this is not a commercial. Check out their web site to find a distributor near you.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Ian_Grant in Caulk for RC hull?? RADIO
Hello Les here. As a painter I get what your talking about. Dap. This product is not rated for this application. If you must, use a solvent based product that is used for exterior siding. Mulco is one. Just be aware that you can't cut the tip fine enough to apply to a very small bead. I would Google " marine caulking" and see what comes up.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Keith Black in Rigging colours
After some thought I'm going to rig all the same colours. While a ship at sea or under retrofit would replace lines as required I think it would be a bit much and look like a hodgepodge due to it's small size. Thnx for the input.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Caulk for RC hull?? RADIO
Hello Les here. As a painter I get what your talking about. Dap. This product is not rated for this application. If you must, use a solvent based product that is used for exterior siding. Mulco is one. Just be aware that you can't cut the tip fine enough to apply to a very small bead. I would Google " marine caulking" and see what comes up.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Rigging colours
After some thought I'm going to rig all the same colours. While a ship at sea or under retrofit would replace lines as required I think it would be a bit much and look like a hodgepodge due to it's small size. Thnx for the input.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from BenD in Rigging colours
After some thought I'm going to rig all the same colours. While a ship at sea or under retrofit would replace lines as required I think it would be a bit much and look like a hodgepodge due to it's small size. Thnx for the input.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Occre Endeavour Rigging
Hello Les here. I am currently building the Corel version of this ship. I have purchased the book Endeavour, by Karl Heinz Marquardt. I believe this to be the best reference book out there. I have made many revisions based on the material. I have built the masts and yards based on this book. Now my dilemma is that the mast and rigging plans don't necessarily agree with each other. So what next? The build plan shows the places where you belay or rig the ship but the book does not. I feel your pain.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Keith Black in Rigging colours
thx for the info. I'm still on the fence on this one. I like to show my models with a slightly lived in stance.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Keith Black in Rigging colours
Hello Les here. Is it acceptable to use two different colours of rigging line for the running rigging. Both would be tan but not the same.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Rigging colours
thx for the info. I'm still on the fence on this one. I like to show my models with a slightly lived in stance.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Zocane in Flexament cement
Hello Les calling back. This is a case of six of one or half a dozen of the other. CA vs other 24 hr adhesives. Rigging is always a stressful time in any project. So much work in such a confined space. Whats not to like! When I screw up my courage and go for it I want to carry through to the end as quickly as possible. It's not that I don't like rigging as it I get satisfaction from this part of the build, as it's just as important to get this right as the hull and all the other goodies that make your ship, boat or whatever. If you can wait overnight good, if you need to power through great. Sorry for the vent. Do what works for you.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Canute in Epoxy glue
Hi Les back. Whenever I use epoxy I wear gloves to limit the contact to my skin. I make sure that I have my vent fan on to evacuate the fumes.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Epoxy glue
Hi Les back. Whenever I use epoxy I wear gloves to limit the contact to my skin. I make sure that I have my vent fan on to evacuate the fumes.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Canute in Epoxy glue
Hi Les here. I use Lepage 5 minute epoxy. It's available here in Canada. So far so good. I would be interested in a side by side review.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Epoxy glue
Hi Les here. I use Lepage 5 minute epoxy. It's available here in Canada. So far so good. I would be interested in a side by side review.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from Keith Black in 1770 lightning conductor
Fascinating. I am building the Endeavour and the Beagle. Would these ships have been fitted with these devices?
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Planking
Thank you for your responses. I can only imagine a ship rolling out of a yard fresh as a daisy. What would it have looked and smelled like? My new build on the Beagle has made me think if I should make it pristine or like a ship that has done a few years at sea. I don't build any of my models overly weathered as this, only in my opinion shows disrespect for the craft. As this will be my final build, I agree whole heartedly that the final planking of especially walnut may add some limited interest for those who don't know anything about how ships were built in this era but thats not the point. I would like to get this one right so I can look at it and say it's as close as I could get it. Luckily a have a wood supply store in my city so I can get what you have recommended.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Hull repairs
So I think this is what I'm going to try. Take a small sharp blade and very carefully scrape the joint so I don't feel any sharp edge on the joint. Then flood in some Varathane to seal the crack. Then I will see if I can polish and buff the repair. I will use some Novis polishing compound used for Plexiglass scratch repairs and see if this works. If that isn't satisfactory I will mask out and spray new clear coat just like an auto body shop would do for a repair.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from thibaultron in Hull repairs
So I think this is what I'm going to try. Take a small sharp blade and very carefully scrape the joint so I don't feel any sharp edge on the joint. Then flood in some Varathane to seal the crack. Then I will see if I can polish and buff the repair. I will use some Novis polishing compound used for Plexiglass scratch repairs and see if this works. If that isn't satisfactory I will mask out and spray new clear coat just like an auto body shop would do for a repair.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from thibaultron in Hull repairs
The model stays in my basement, were humidity is around 32% and around 18 Celcius.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from mtaylor in Hull repairs
The model stays in my basement, were humidity is around 32% and around 18 Celcius.
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bluenose2 got a reaction from thibaultron in Hull repairs
As this is a static kit I can't get into the back side. I checked for movement between bulkheads but there isn't any. I suspect it is a shrinkage issue as all planks were soaked to get them to conform to the contour of the barrel back hull.
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