mrcc

Good progress Jan-Willem, I think the stanchions look great. I was lucky enough to have the planks staggered when I assumed the build from my neighbour. Any thoughts on the darkness of the mahogany? Do you think it is too dark? I personally love the richness of the wood, which will look even better once clear coated. Are you aware that the original ship was likely not this dark? I just recently found this out. I have a local mentor who has built 3 Bluenoses, and has advised me that it may be more accurate to lighten with a paint or even bleach the wood. It would be such a shame to paint over the mahogany decking. Cheers, Julian

Thanks Keith for your advise... It is such a small (2.3 x 2.3mm) piece of wood that along the length of the hull, I might just take my chance and apply directly over the primed surface with wood glue. Worse case scenario, I will then try CA glue. Julian

As I only work on my model on the weekends, I do not have much to report but I did manage to do the rudder and do a second coat of primer on the hull . The only concern is that I did some extra filling after the first coat of primer and found that I perhaps did not sand it back enough even though I triple checked for smoothness against the rest of the hull. Or perhaps I have to do a second coat of primer on the newly filled and single primed surfaces and then reassess. The other issue is that I have to attach the narrow strips of 2.3 x 2.3 mm strip of spruce that I bought at the local hobby store to create the narrow upper wale along both sides. I bought the spruce thinking it is a bit sturdier and of a harder wood that the basawood strips in the kit and can weather the "storm" this next year of modelling and handling the hull. The only worry on this is attaching to a primed surface - can I presume that PVA or wood glue will work or should I just use CA glue? I do not want to sand just a narrow strip on this newly primed and pristine surface just so I can use wood glue if CA will do the job, even though working with PVA is safer and easier. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Hi Jan-Willem, I have a very good quality brush and with multiple coats, I am sure my brush will do just fine.

Thanks Alan, Jan-Willem, and Keith... All excellent advice! All information and particulars that I was not aware of ie: two coats of primer and sandpaper grits between finishes. Julian

I then added some wood filler and with some sanding, got my first coat of primer on. This is my outdoor sanding station FYI. Very relaxing with or without Tecate. I will reassess the finish on the hull and with some minor wood fill and then another coat of primer should be ready for paint. Between coats of primer, I was planning on using 220 grit sand paper. Too much or should I go higher in grit?

Last weekend... I worked at my correction on the scuppers. I filled the top or bottom of the scupper with a small 1mm width of plank and inserted it to where I thought the proper line would be as some of my original cut outs wandered a bit and with the fill and then sand was able to correct that issue as well. I think it turned out well.

Wonderful job you are doing! I am just curious why you primed and sanded back so much? I am about to prime my Bluenose hull and wondering if it provides a better surface to paint?

Thanks Alan, Jan-Willem for your advice... I will try the small piece of plank/wood and sand from the outside back and then wood fill and sand again. With regards to the instructions, I just found them on the internet at the Billing Boat website just last month. They are just a generic set of instructions with not much direction, scale unknown. Luckily I still have the plan drawings. I will provide an update with photos early next week as I typically only work on the model on the weekends...

Oh yes Alan, thanks for your input... interesting! Have you tried it and does the plug come out easily after the wood filler has set a bit (given the Vaseline coating)? I could make a standard plug and just run through all the openings with it. Julian

Hi Jan-Willem, Thanks for the notice on the grate placement. I noticed your recent log post with the stanchions... looks good! The issue for me was that the railing was already on and it was difficult enough to cut and place a single stanchion between each bulwark stanchion. I took the liberty to just place the single one and yes its not true to the original plan of the Bluenose but it looks good enough for me. With regards to the build manual... I snooped around and found the most recent manual to the Billings 1:65 scale on the internet. PM me if you wish the copy to be emailed to you. Cheers, Julian

Hi Jan-Willem... funny that you noticed that as well. This kit seems out of scale to me - not the 1:75 as stated on the box and limited documentation that we got. It is hard to believe that Billing Boats would get it wrong???

So I have now come to a hiccup... I decided to create scuppers. I did some research, whether correct or not and made 11 in the fore deck and 8 in the aft deck. I drilled a 0.5 mm hole in the inside going outside tight against the stanchions as a reference and with a small file created the rest of the cut-out from the outside in. When you are in the middle of the work, you don't realize how much material you are taking out and perhaps I got over zealous and only upon resting after the work that I noticed that the cut-outs are out of scale and are now perhaps too big. I have tried a fix as evident in the last picture and hope to get opinions on whether to fill with a small length of 1mm planking and then sand back to create perhaps a more realistic look for the rest of the scuppers or leave as is. Not sure...?

I got to work planking the deck fixtures as well. All easy work with some fill and sand and final finishing to achieve yet the final pieces... all progress to report.

I addressed the issues at the stern by soaking a couple pieces of wood (short planks) and affixing them above and below the original work and then planking the full stern face below. All easy work... creating a more real representation I believe. Of course lots of filler and sanding is yet needed.

I was missing the rudder so I fabricated one from some scrap wood. I also laminated another scrap to it to get the proper width. It will of course get painted.

I have had a couple of weekends to complete some work... but only now able to show progress. I added the fake stanchions which the kit never asked for, I added one between each of the bulwark stanchions already in place. Perhaps should have done two between each which likely reflects the real number on the original ship. Certainly looks better in my eyes.

Thanks Alan, Jan-Willem, I think my neighbour (the original builder) may have taken some liberties with the plans, slight as it may be. The problem now for me, especially with the cap railing on is to fit the fake stanchions in. I think I will just stick one in the middle as see how it looks. Jan-Willem, maybe try two between each fixed stanchion (bulwark) and see how it looks. I certainly feel that this Billings kit may not be true in any sense but I am sure it will look great in the end. I will post some progress / pictures later this weekend. Cheers, Julian

I am presently starting a second log. I am not even 2 years into this hobby, plugging away at a Caldercraft kit, the HM Granado, and have now started a new (old) build. My neighbour purchased this kit 25 years ago in 1989 and completed it to the stage shown in the pictures below. Unfortunately, that is where it has sat for 24.5 years and fortunate for me though is that he has passed the kit on to me. I was very surprised at the quality of his work, certainly better that what I would have done on my first effort and maybe even on a second effort for me, specifically with respect to the planking. The kit though has some definite misgivings. 1) There is no instructions at all - not sure if they were present originally and subsequently lost but for me I have had to do a lot of research both on MSW and with a co-worker of my wife's who to my surprise has built 3 Bluenose and Bluenose II kits and lucky for me, was able to provide me with his instruction manuals and plans to refer to. 2) The quality of the kit components is certainly not up to par with the Caldercraft kit - for example plastic deadeyes and blocks which I will surely replace with wooden items. 3) Some missing parts but certainly easy to scratch build - for example the rudder and the cradle. 4) There are some minor mistakes and deviations from the plans made by my neighbour, but easy to fix. There are some positive items to the present build and kit though. 1) The hull is single planked but my neighbour has done a very good job (in my estimation). The nail holes are nicely countersunk and with a fine layer of wood filler, the hull is ready for primer and paint. 2) The deck planking needs a simple fine sand and is basically ready for a protective varnish. 3) The fixes that are required are easy to do - for example at the transom. Also I feel that I should first put some fake stanchions to make it more to the proper and original form. I should also cut some scuppers into the hull which I find more appealing to the model. And I will also have to create a waterway which I presume will have to be masked off and simply spray painted, first with primer and then a paint, given the current state of the model and difficulty getting a brush into the bulwarks and stanchions. There is a current build on MSW of this same original kit, presently not on the market, at this scale anyways, done by 7Provinces. Hopefully we will be able to collaborate a bit and I think the model will turn out quite well. Not sure on how fast my progress will be as I currently have another build on the go.

Oops... You are right Timmo. Not sure if I will be able to fix this given the housing is soundly glued in place.

Last progress to note is the painting of the figurehead, lower finishing figures, and quarter badges. The problem now that I note is that with my 50 year old eyes, I sometimes miss the finer details as noted with the finishing figures, and not cleaning up the cast halves before painting them. Hmm, maybe these eyes are a blessing given this is my first build. On another note is the frustration in who ever put my kit together at Caldercraft prior to its shipping. I was missing an entire sheet on first opening the kit and then later in the build noticed I was missing numerous stock wood strips. The retailer was excellent last year in providing the missing parts after a direct email to Jotika was unanswered. I again have noticed that I am missing some casting parts, specifically the figurehead sceptre and the 2 cathead decorations.

I then tackled the tiller, tiller mortice, and canopy. All easy work... Some obvious challenge in drilling the 1mm hole centered in a 2mm by 2mm mortice.

Time once again to post some progress... completing the rudder, first painting the waterline, attaching the rudder pintle straps, and then drilling the holes in the straps to accommodate the pintles made from brass nails. I had to just slightly enlarge the rudder cutouts to align with the hull gudgeon straps the I affixed earlier in the build which I believe now was a mistake. I should have down both together at this stage. Nonetheless, everything looks good and I was very lucky to have the rudder slip into place without any problems. I will apply a second coat of paint to polish everything up.

Thanks Jan-Willem for the note. I as well am extremely slow at this hobby and given I have a current build going on with my HM Granado (my first), I am certainly not sure how much time I can devote to the Bluenose. I will though start a Bluenose log in the next week or two and show some pictures of where I am at. To be honest with you, your first few posting and pictures are "identical" to the model I inherited. I have seen the Bluenose II docked in Lunenburg 3 years ago while it was undergoing some restoration in Nova Scotia, Canada, and it is such a beautiful ship. The lines obviously so similar to the original. Who knows, I may just shift my focus on this ship, and complete it first. Julian

Hi there, I also have this same and identical kit. My neighbor began this kit 25 years ago and gave it to me this past weekend to complete as he was not interested in this hobby. I am also at this same exact stage as you and have this inherited the same concerns. I am optimistic that it will turn out OK with a bit of detail work and simple scratch buildup. My problem is I have another build log on the go and not sure when I will have time to do this kit justice. I may create a log for this model and then let it sit for a while. Nonetheless I look forward to any work you get done as I am right behind you.