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mrcc
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Everything posted by mrcc
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Hi Jan-Willem, I agree with David in that it may detract from the beautiful deck you already have and I am not sure what the tree nailing would look like on such a dark wood. Certainly the choice is always yours. Julian -
Thanks Keith for your reply... The challenge of inheriting a kit, as old as it is, is parts of a sheet missing, very poor documentation to begin with, and in my case no instructions at all, and plans on a double sided sheet that only show some parts in profile.The only reference I have is instructions of newer kits of a Billing Bluenose model that is not even of the same scale as the one I have and is poor to begin with. Julian
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I have since noticed that I am missing some key parts / components from the 4 mm sheet, about 6 in total ( 4 of them have paired parts). Not sure what to do as the kit is long out of production now and whether Billing Boats would have the press yet available. I may email Billing or the other option is to get a photocopy or scan of the missing parts at 1:1 scale and just scratch build them. (*Hint, hint* to 7Provinces if not a huge bother).
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Some cleanup work involved adding the additional stanchions, now at three between every bulkhead, as evident in the post prior. I also cleaned up the bow as well, making some parts from scratch, as I have since found out that I am missing some parts from the kit that I inherited.
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I also sanded and primed everything once again.
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I have an update to report... I sanded back the primer and I used a bit of CA on both ends and middle of this long strake on its addition to the hull with wood glue along the majority of its length. I guess I should have added it prior to the first couple coats of primer.
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I agree Jan-Willem... I love the wood and it will look great once varnished. At the end of the day, it is always what you like best or what you think looks best. PS I will have an update in the next day or two as well for you. PSS I certainly would not worry about treenails.
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Good progress Jan-Willem, I think the stanchions look great. I was lucky enough to have the planks staggered when I assumed the build from my neighbour. Any thoughts on the darkness of the mahogany? Do you think it is too dark? I personally love the richness of the wood, which will look even better once clear coated. Are you aware that the original ship was likely not this dark? I just recently found this out. I have a local mentor who has built 3 Bluenoses, and has advised me that it may be more accurate to lighten with a paint or even bleach the wood. It would be such a shame to paint over the mahogany decking. Cheers, Julian
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Thanks Keith for your advise... It is such a small (2.3 x 2.3mm) piece of wood that along the length of the hull, I might just take my chance and apply directly over the primed surface with wood glue. Worse case scenario, I will then try CA glue. Julian
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As I only work on my model on the weekends, I do not have much to report but I did manage to do the rudder and do a second coat of primer on the hull . The only concern is that I did some extra filling after the first coat of primer and found that I perhaps did not sand it back enough even though I triple checked for smoothness against the rest of the hull. Or perhaps I have to do a second coat of primer on the newly filled and single primed surfaces and then reassess. The other issue is that I have to attach the narrow strips of 2.3 x 2.3 mm strip of spruce that I bought at the local hobby store to create the narrow upper wale along both sides. I bought the spruce thinking it is a bit sturdier and of a harder wood that the basawood strips in the kit and can weather the "storm" this next year of modelling and handling the hull. The only worry on this is attaching to a primed surface - can I presume that PVA or wood glue will work or should I just use CA glue? I do not want to sand just a narrow strip on this newly primed and pristine surface just so I can use wood glue if CA will do the job, even though working with PVA is safer and easier. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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Hi Jan-Willem, I have a very good quality brush and with multiple coats, I am sure my brush will do just fine.
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Thanks Alan, Jan-Willem, and Keith... All excellent advice! All information and particulars that I was not aware of ie: two coats of primer and sandpaper grits between finishes. Julian
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I then added some wood filler and with some sanding, got my first coat of primer on. This is my outdoor sanding station FYI. Very relaxing with or without Tecate. I will reassess the finish on the hull and with some minor wood fill and then another coat of primer should be ready for paint. Between coats of primer, I was planning on using 220 grit sand paper. Too much or should I go higher in grit?
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Last weekend... I worked at my correction on the scuppers. I filled the top or bottom of the scupper with a small 1mm width of plank and inserted it to where I thought the proper line would be as some of my original cut outs wandered a bit and with the fill and then sand was able to correct that issue as well. I think it turned out well.
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Wonderful job you are doing! I am just curious why you primed and sanded back so much? I am about to prime my Bluenose hull and wondering if it provides a better surface to paint?
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Thanks Alan, Jan-Willem for your advice... I will try the small piece of plank/wood and sand from the outside back and then wood fill and sand again. With regards to the instructions, I just found them on the internet at the Billing Boat website just last month. They are just a generic set of instructions with not much direction, scale unknown. Luckily I still have the plan drawings. I will provide an update with photos early next week as I typically only work on the model on the weekends...
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Oh yes Alan, thanks for your input... interesting! Have you tried it and does the plug come out easily after the wood filler has set a bit (given the Vaseline coating)? I could make a standard plug and just run through all the openings with it. Julian
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Hi Jan-Willem, Thanks for the notice on the grate placement. I noticed your recent log post with the stanchions... looks good! The issue for me was that the railing was already on and it was difficult enough to cut and place a single stanchion between each bulwark stanchion. I took the liberty to just place the single one and yes its not true to the original plan of the Bluenose but it looks good enough for me. With regards to the build manual... I snooped around and found the most recent manual to the Billings 1:65 scale on the internet. PM me if you wish the copy to be emailed to you. Cheers, Julian
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Hi Jan-Willem... funny that you noticed that as well. This kit seems out of scale to me - not the 1:75 as stated on the box and limited documentation that we got. It is hard to believe that Billing Boats would get it wrong???
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So I have now come to a hiccup... I decided to create scuppers. I did some research, whether correct or not and made 11 in the fore deck and 8 in the aft deck. I drilled a 0.5 mm hole in the inside going outside tight against the stanchions as a reference and with a small file created the rest of the cut-out from the outside in. When you are in the middle of the work, you don't realize how much material you are taking out and perhaps I got over zealous and only upon resting after the work that I noticed that the cut-outs are out of scale and are now perhaps too big. I have tried a fix as evident in the last picture and hope to get opinions on whether to fill with a small length of 1mm planking and then sand back to create perhaps a more realistic look for the rest of the scuppers or leave as is. Not sure...?
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I got to work planking the deck fixtures as well. All easy work with some fill and sand and final finishing to achieve yet the final pieces... all progress to report.
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I addressed the issues at the stern by soaking a couple pieces of wood (short planks) and affixing them above and below the original work and then planking the full stern face below. All easy work... creating a more real representation I believe. Of course lots of filler and sanding is yet needed.
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I was missing the rudder so I fabricated one from some scrap wood. I also laminated another scrap to it to get the proper width. It will of course get painted.
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I have had a couple of weekends to complete some work... but only now able to show progress. I added the fake stanchions which the kit never asked for, I added one between each of the bulwark stanchions already in place. Perhaps should have done two between each which likely reflects the real number on the original ship. Certainly looks better in my eyes.
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Thanks Alan, Jan-Willem, I think my neighbour (the original builder) may have taken some liberties with the plans, slight as it may be. The problem now for me, especially with the cap railing on is to fit the fake stanchions in. I think I will just stick one in the middle as see how it looks. Jan-Willem, maybe try two between each fixed stanchion (bulwark) and see how it looks. I certainly feel that this Billings kit may not be true in any sense but I am sure it will look great in the end. I will post some progress / pictures later this weekend. Cheers, Julian
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