mtdoramike

I was able to spend a few hours working on the Nordkap today and have the super structure of the deck housing installed as well as a few other odds and ends. The entire super structure is removeable to allow access to the motor bay in the hull as well as the rudder. You will have to esxcuse the messy work area, that is my process.

Thanks druxey. I'm getting ready to start installing the deck cabins and all that detail stuff.

I was able to spend a little time on the Nordkap, got her painted, installed the stuffing tube, rudder tube, motor mount.

Great job on the L'O. She looks fantastic. I really liked this model when I built it about 15 years ago. The quality of the side paddle wheels I thought were quite exceptional for a kit that cost well under $200.00 at the time.

Check out www.Dumas.com they have small model scale brass hinges.

I have built several previous to burning down Mamoli models from the Constitution, L'Orenoque and others and heard the same complaints as you have back in the day. But I didn't find any foundation to those complaints. Yes, the english translation at certain points were lacking, BUT, with this said, these particular two models are either Advanced level or intermediate level builds and before tackling such ambitious kits, you should have experience under your belt of lesser ambitious kit. If you do, then these little annoyances will not hender you in the least. These are quality kits so don't worry, the L'O building into a real beautiful model. Then side paddle wheels were fantastic.

This is a Billings Boats kit of the Calypso, I received this kit from a good friend and fellow modeller a few months ago. This is not what I usually call an orphaned kit. It took me two years to finally talk him out of it. I had it stashed away in a closet for a few months waiting it's turn on the building bench. I'm finishing up the Dumas 1955 Chris Craft Cobra and then on to another Billings Boats kit of the Nordkap, which was an orphaned kit whose previous owner had passed away before completing it. I will most likely spend time working on both kits periodically. Now on to the good stuff and the Calypso ahhhh the Siren of the Sea's, she has been beckoning to me for the last two years and her time is growing near. Upon opening the box, I noticed several white printed styrene sheets, which will need to be cut out and finished, wood sheets, and a numerous fitting package, which Billings is known for, they are also known for not including the fitting packages in the kits and making the builder have to purchase them separately. But not this kit, it was included. One thing I did notice is the preformed plastic hull, which I find to be quite thin and light for this size of a model. So, it will require some re-enforcement. I also noticed the 4 sheets of plans were printed on two sheets back and front, which I also don't care for, so I will have to find a Kinko's some where to get additional prints made. Yes, I know Kinko's is defunk so on to an Office Depot. For some this may not both, but for me it is poses a bit of a problem since I like to mount the plans on the wall. This will cause me to have to remove them constantly to check as I go along. I like to check as much as 3-4 steps ahead just to make sure I'm not missing anything. I'm not good at following instructions, I find them more of a suggestion, I'm more of a plans builder. I would not recommend this model kit for a beginner, I would highly recommend they build a few boats before tackling this beast.

Thanks for the link, she turned out beautiful. If this one turns out half as nice, I will be thrilled.

Absolutely beautiful work on the Siren of the Seas

To you as well Craig.

Hi Yves, would you post a few pictures of it? We would love to see it.

A few things left to do on her, but she will be finished shortly. With that said, I will start back on the Billings Nordkap and finish it and then if all goes well, on to the Billings Calypso which has been calling my name such as the siren of the seas.

I named her Fool's Gold hahahahahaha.

The humidity laid down a bit here in central Florida allowing me to finish sealing the deck with three coats of resin. A fellow asked how did I sand the deck around the gold trimming, I told him "very carefully". I used a dremel tool with a sanding sleeve to cut down the white caulking strips between the planking because it was a milimeter higher than the planking. I then used 80, 120 and then 220 sand paper to finish sanding the deck. I used 400 grit wet sanding paper to sand inbetween the three coats of resin.

Thanks, that is what I was shooting for, one thing for sure, when it's out on the lake it will be hard to miss especially when the sun is shining because it sparkles like no bodies business hahahahaha. It kind of reminds me of those old choppers and tricked out hotrods from that era.

Thank you DCW, the instructions call for the deck to be planked with 3/8" mahogany planking. But we all know I don't follow instructions very well, I find them to be more of a suggestion than a rule. I thought the 3/8" planking was to wide and looked off scale, so I decided on 1/4" planking, which to me looks more accurate to the Cobra's I have seen in the past.

I have the deck all planked and now it's on to sanding and sealing.

I made a bit of progress on the Cobra by starting the deck planking with the mahogany strips. I had to seal the deck trim pieces that I metal flaked to keep the flank off of the mahogany planking. But then again, you can never get enough gold.

I have the seats installed as well as the side panels and flooring covered in leather and installed as welll.

False decking laid, I also had to do a bit of fixin. Unfortunately when you modify a boat or basically anything for that matter, there are unforseen issue that will develope, one of which reared it'd ugly head a few days ago. When I installed the deck trimming mahogany wood, which was cut for a 27" model, not a 30". So it left an indentation on the sides of the trim pieces near where the windshield will go. So I had to scab in some scrap mahogany to fill in the dent. No big deal.

I tried to capture the look with my camera, but it is like trying to catch lightening in a bottle hahahaha. But it will give you an idea of what I'm shooting for.

If you like the seat, you will love the turtle deck (the fin one the back) I laid a base layer of shiney gold paint down, put a light coat of resin over the paint and once it had tacked up I sprinkled .004 gold metal flake all over the turtle deck and then lightly sprinkled .015 gold metal flake over the turtle deck as well. Then I gave it two more coats of resin. In the shade, it gives a little sparkle, but boy when the light comes on or the sun is out, it looks like the mirror disco globes from the 70's. I was going for a really heavy flake, but my wife and friend talked me out of it, now I wish they hadn't. I was going for the look of some of the Hydroplane racing boats that used to race in Lake Dora back in the 60's and 70's. They had one there that I couldn't take my eyes off of as a young man back then. The Gold Flake was huge flake and boy when the sun hit it, it was really something to behold.

I remade the plastic seats out of balsa and covered them with white leather, which I will also use on the flooring and side panels

I order from Cornwall all the time. They are great, but expect 2-3 (probably 3) week shipping time. Is the family intending to keep the model? If so I'm sure they would be happy to spend the $157.00 for the part especially when you explain to them that the minimum appraisal for a nicely built SOS is $10.000.00 and better. 15 to 20 years ago, I could have built and sold 3-4 SOS models for $5000-$6000, It wasn't the money issue it was the time involved, none of them wanted to wait 2 years for the build to be complete, which is a hobby schedule, not a business schedule. This was back when you could buy the kit for $600.-$800.00.