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mtdoramike

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Everything posted by mtdoramike

  1. I got the hull painted and put the decal on the transom. I still have to seal the decal though.
  2. Thye Mamoli 1/90 scale Victory retails new for around $800.00. The rulke of thumb is usually 50% of retail on resale of kits. But it really comes down to what you want and what someone is willing to pay for it. If it's an out of production kit and someone just has to have it, the sky is the limit. I have seen this kit go for $250.00-$300.00 on Ebay. I know this is probably not the news you wanted to hear.
  3. The Santa Ana has always been on my to do list as well. I'm hoping to see it offered in the U.S. fairly soon.
  4. I laid down the cloth and resin in two coats after sanding inbetween. I also received the graphic for the transome the other day. "Miss Chloe in navy blue". Unlike the original, the predominant color of mine will be white.
  5. I got the hull all planked, skim coated with bondo. Next will be laying down the fiber glass cloth and resin when humidity lays down a bit. I also started working on the cabin structure.
  6. I've finished planking the hull and skimming the exterior with body filler. I'll lay down the fiberglass cloth and resin when the humidity goes down a bit.
  7. I happen to be reading the paper this morning and came across an article about the very style of boat the Miss Chloe is, and there are a few of them actually being used to offer boat rides on a lake not so near me. There are a few differences to these compared to Miss Chloe, like the rounded stern/transom and the canopy extending all they way up to the cabin. I'm going to have to take a little trip over there to take a ride on one of them. I actually like the rounded transom better than the squared one on the Chloe, but we'll see how she turns out, I can always make another one with a round transom.
  8. Hi Harley, if you want the prospective buyer to check shipping cost, they will require the size of the shipping box, the weight and your zip code to get an idea.
  9. I cut out the keel and frames from 1/8" plywood and now planking the hull with 1/8"x3/8" balsa planking. I picked up a square of fabric that I thought would be appropriate and look nice and a bit different than the usual striped canopy top.
  10. I just go by Harbor freight and buy their cheapo mini wire drill bits, yep, they break, yep they aren't true to size, but they are plentiful, cheap and just down the road from me. I've had $60.00 sets of mini to micro drill bits and found no difference in performance, however they do cut quicker when you first get them, but they quickly dull like they all do.
  11. In order to make it water tight for R/C use, you would have to fiberglass the hull and preferrably seal inside the hull as well.
  12. Don't you hate it when builds are started and never seem to get finished, especially when the object of starting a build thread is to possibly help others building the same subject who might get stuck on something and need a visual aid to get them started again? Blue Jacket is top notch as far as kits go.
  13. I for one appreciate your opinions on the kit and hope that you do not refrain from do the same in the future. It's always better for modellers going in if they are aware of pitfalls or short comings of a particular kit.
  14. I would like to add my appreciation to OCcre for producing a nice battle ship model in a worthy size. As for the stem and the planking, both of those issues can be overcome with little effort on the builders part. There is one major benefit to building a wooden battle ship like the OCcre kit versus a Trumpeter plastic model is with wood, you can fix about anything you dislike about the original kit where as with plastic, you are pretty much stuck with what you get out of the box, not a whole lot you can do about it. Like I tell newbies, a kit is a kit and only a starting point, it's up to the builder to make the model all it can be. So although there are a few things I nit picked about the OCcre kit, it still would make into a worthy model and I think easy enough to convert to radio control if that is your ticket with modifications and lightening up the super structure whetre it wouldn't be nearly as top heavy.
  15. From the pictures, it looks great, I wondered how the kit would look once released. But with that said, two glaring issues for me is way to much metal fittings in this kit. It would have lightened the load a bit by using plastic fittings in a lot of places, the second issue is the use of fiber board, which I detest in kits, it has a tendancy to be brittle and if you have a warped piece, you can't soak it and flatten it out like you can wood.
  16. The Model Shipways Bluenose 1:64 scale, should measure out to about 33" when finished.
  17. Check out www.modelexpo.com The one I used before I started making my own was the MX25 Hull planking vise 18" long. Model Expo has it for $49.99.
  18. When asked this question, I usually recommend one particular model and that is the Model Shipways Bluenose. It's fairly inexpensive, won't require a bunch of tools, minimal rigging and the most important part is the shape of the hull, which is an arrow shape and due to the shape, one of the easiest hulls to plank. I think everyone on here will attest to hull planking as being one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of model ship and boat building and the second would be rigging. As far as tools go, here is my go to list: Rotary tool (I use daily) small brass hammer mini needle nose pliers mini cutting pliers hand drill Good assortment of micro drill bits as well as standard drill bits and a coping saw Materials: A good CA glue I use mainly medium viscocity and thin viscocity in some areas (and a lot of it) A good CA glue kicker small mini clamps push pins mini square (or make your own) a bunch of sand paper from 80 grit to 600 grit KEEL CLAMP = I highlighted this because all the tools in the world can't overcome a twisted and warped keel. I usually make my own with 1"x2" wood boards and screws. There are a ton of other stuff, but this would get you started. With the above tools, I can build any ship or boat models and have, which at present, I'm closing in on 200 models from boats, ships, planes and a few automobiles, which include wood and plastic.
  19. You do what we all do, the walk of shame. Don't worry, your in good company, I have had to do this walk a few times lately.
  20. I know what you mean Keith, the retail price for this kit is quite high, which I think is a might over priced, but then again all Billings kits a a bit over priced.
  21. Hey Bob, this will be my next project. It's a river/lake/pleasure boat. I have the plans for it. It will be over the scratch built section.
  22. Thanks Craig, I tried to stay pretty close to the original, but you know me, I had to give it a little color. I also extended the rear hatch close to an extra inch toward the transome to give a bit better access to the rear rudder assemblies, which always require constant adjustments on the double rudder boats to keep them tracking properly. I also squirted in clear silicone into the observation pod to make it water tight and ordered some glazed portholes from England to use on the observation pod since the portholes in the kit were all unglazed. I also used glazed portholes on the side portholes in the hull just in case it were to be in rough seas and water splashed up. I told you I would get her done. I think she is beautiful and the old sea goddess still captures my heart even after 50 years when I last saw her moored off of the water front in St. Thomas USVI. That was a magical time for me as a teenager and it brought back fond memories that I would get lost in for a while when I was building her.
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