mtdoramike
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Everything posted by mtdoramike
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OK, this is as close to green as I'm going to go, like, love it or hate it. The paint color is called Satin Sea Glass.
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Thanks CD, this is the first one that I have built that requires you to install the seats and side panels BEFORE the planking.
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I have the seats all made up and test fitted with the side panels to make sure of fit and finish, and it looks good to me. Now I have to remove them and prep the seats and side panels for painting and here is where the rub comes in. The instructions call for green paint for the seats as well as the anti fouling paint for the hull, I dislike green so this presents a bit of a dilemma. Now if I were a purist, which I'm not, I would go strictly by the traditional colors, but I may deviate from the traditional a little here. My wife hates to send me to get paint, especially a specific color paint because she never know what I will bring back. She has often said, if they sold plaid in a can, I would so up with it instead white.
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I actually prefer a few imperfections myself, it makes it look hand built versus factory built. I get a kick out of builders who build a model to perfection only to distress it and give it that old and weathered appearance. I asked a fellow modeler, who was above my skill set at the time and a known perfectionist why he would spend an so much time and effort on a build only to weather it to the point that it almost looks like a ghost ship, who will know the difference in the end? He simply replied "I will". Now that was a true craftsman and someone I strive to emulate on every build I do, but some how I always feel that I have fallen short. But he pointed out to me that this is the same way he feels after every build as well. It goes to show how even expert modelers if there is such a thing is not 100% satisfied with their builds in the end either. Your doing a fantastic job on her.
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Are you going to fiber glass the hull? Or are you building strictly a display piece? The reason I'm asking is, usually the hull is fiber glassed with cloth and resin before it gets painted with either primer or paint. I have tried laying cloth and epoxy on painted hulls and it just doesn't seem to hold as well then if it's done on the bare wood surface. The rule of thumb for me when it comes to imperfections in the bottom of the hull is, the heavier the fiber glass cloth, the less any imperfections will show, the thinner the cloth, the more they will stand out. Your build is turning out beautifully, I love the deck planking. mike
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I got the seat cushions all cut out and trimmed. I received the mini cutting saw blades from China since I couldn't find any in the US. I tried an xacto knife last time and it wasn't cutting it, no pun intended.
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I have added a couple of stringers to the top of the boat. Also it was brought to my attention that on this particular model, there is a trap door on the bottom of the rear stern to access the rudder shaft as well as the rudder servo. I'm not liking that setup, but unsure how to change it without having to make major changes to the stern sections in order to be able to access all of this from the top.
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I feel for you brother, having built better than 50 or so various ship/boat model kits over the years from various manufacture, I have found problems with part thicknesses, color variations, fit and finish of parts to be problematic with ALL kit manufactures. But as a ship model builder especially wood ships, I have found the adage "adapt and overcome" to be paramount in building an acceptable model. Some times you have to learn to work with what you have and if it don't work then improvise. This philosophy has made me a much better modeler and I appreciate the challenge that poor quality can some times bring.
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I would agree that it is an interesting build, but if I were going to keep this model for myself, I would do some bashing and modify it from it's original design. I'm not a fan of the pointed bow and stern, to me it looks to much like a canoe. I would remove the last 4 or so frames, bob it off in the back like the run abouts and make a decent stern and that might be an option since I actually paid nothing for the kit, only the shipping cost to me. I haven't started the planking yet.
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I'm using a Tite Bond wood glue interior/exterior use for the framing rather than 5 minute epoxy or super glue (Star Bond) for the purpose of set time which is slower, but yet easier to cut if I have to ease pressure on a few pieces if I see a twist or warp. Now once I have the frame halves together, I will use the 48" building board to fashion a keel holder/clamp to place the keel in while I start planking it in case I can't get back to it for a few days. Here in Florida it can get quite humid and even leaving a straight keel and frames to it's own devices for only a few days can develop a warp and even a twist until you at least get a portion of the hull planked. The interior of the hull will be resined with epoxy resin and cloth where I can get to it once the hull is planked.
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I got the two halves together this afternoon and had my fingers crossed that there was no warping or twisting and there wasn't so I dodged that bullet
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If I were to build this kit and decided not to use the PVC sheets for the hull, I would opt for a cheaper wood and would probably use strip wood rather than sheets because the strip wood planking would be much easier to apply, it might take a bit longer, but to me it would be easier. This boat is really meant to be painted the military colors and it would be a shame if not a crime to paint mahogany. I would most likely opt for balsa, which would be covered with fiber glass cloth and resin.
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Here is a pic of the plan showing the boat, it's actually to scale at 42". That's a pretty fair sized boat.
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I started putting the hull frames together. I made sure to label and number each piece before removing it from their trees.
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Lou, I just shipped a 40" x 15" x 15" box that weighed 17 pounds and upon checking with both Fedex and UPS, Fedex wanted $80.00 plus to ship it, UPS wanted $70.00 plus to ship it, but yet USPS, which I thought would have been the most expensive, was actually the cheapest at $52.00 for 5 day ground and this was with $400.00 insurance and the package went from Florida to New York state. So where Fedex and UPS used to be cheaper, I have found them to be quite a bit higher especially if I ship to the west coast. I'm not saying Tom is out of line on the shipping quote at all, I'm just saying that unfortunately with all the online retailers offering free shipping, or minimal shipping fees if the order reaches a certain amount makes it harder for us to sell an item and ask for ACTUAL shipping cost. Also Ebay wants the seller to list a shipping amount and going from coast to coast with a box that size and weight, would be an expensive proposition.
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I saw your add, but the shipping is the killer
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I have bought from them in the past, but they were a bit expensive, but the items I purchased were either out of stock or I couldn't find them else where.
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I received the new plans and the instruction booklet from Dumas yesterday and upon reviewing both of the instructions, I found that in the new version, some of the change recommendations indicated in the old instruction manual were made in the new version, but not all of them. I'm going to use both of the instruction manuals during the construction process to see what differences if any the change suggestions would make to the build.
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I might go ahead and start the building process of the Typhoon as my next project since I have someone interested in it. I started removing the hull frames, keel from the trees this afternoon and boy what a PITA that was. It seems the die cutters must have been quite dull because I had to cut out and score around each piece with an xacto knife quite deeply just to keep from breaking the parts. It reminded me of those old printed on wood kits that you literally had to cut out with a knife or scroll saw.
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Boy that brings back memories for sure.
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Welcome to Model Ship World, you bought above your skill set which is understandable most if not all of us have done that, but if your feeling is that it would take to long and to much work to fix the model that you initially purchased then find another hobby now before you waste anymore time. That is the wrong mentality to have in this hobby and which is why there are people like me who adopted orphaned kits people with no experience attempt to build and when the going gets tough they get discouraged and give up on it. But good luck on your next attempt, the Apostol Felipe is no more of an easier kit for a first timer than your first attempt. So rather than giving up on it, try posting here on the forums and ask for help, tips and tricks we are more than happy to try and help.
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Yeah, when I saw all those red making all over the instructions, it gave me flash backs of my old school days. I had some home work that looked worse than that.
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I believe this Typhoon kit is a very early kit to the point that who ever owned this kit originally made numerous and I mean numerous addendums and changes to the instruction manual, way more so than a normal builder would do or would have done. You can see a representation of this on a few of the pages that I attached. This observation is going to make this building not only more of a challenge than anticipated, but a hell of a thrill as well. I'm giddy just thinking about. So this is going to require a lot more forethought than usual. I sure wish the plans weren't smeared because I would have loved to see the changes and I'm sure there were since there was red ink in several places on the plans.
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