mtdoramike

Welcome aboard brother, that is an awsome start on a scratch build. Beautiful work.

Hi, glad to see you finally jumped in with the rest of us. Glad to have the company.

Welcome aboard brother, that is an awsome start on a scratch build. Beautiful work.

Hello everyone. My name is Jesus, I am from Seville (Spain) and I am passionate about modeling. So far I have assembled several commercial kits, but I have always wanted to build "from scratch". A year ago I embarked on the construction of HMS Victory from some old plans that I found. I hope to learn a lot from all the teachers here. I also apologize since my English is very basic and I have to use the translator. Greetings

Hello...I am Horntoad from the Phoenix Arizona area. Been reading and lurking MSW for years and just completed my first model, the Occre Terror. I didn't post a build log because I wasn't sure if I would actually be able to complete the project to my satisfaction but am pretty happy with how it turned out. I will post some pics in the Finished Model Gallery. Using this forum was invaluable in researching information and looking at the build logs of other Terror builders was a big help. Glad to be part of this community! 

Ted, the catapult machinery enclosure hangs down below the flight deck framework to that U shaped platform on those 2 rectangular posts. you have to extend the sides of Trumpeter's enclosure to that platform by using sheet plastic. look at the 1st drawing that i orange  circled the enclosure.
the cutouts were put there in mid 1943 for 2 platforms containing 2x20mm aa guns each. 
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020695.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/06a.htm
this is what i am talking about after going thru your pictures.

Apologies.   I hadn't loaded the pictures from my iphone to the computer, before.  Done now.

The catapults were not the steam catapults used on the Forrestall and Nimitz class ships.  These were developed by the British and began to be used in the 1950’s.  The catapults used on the Essex Class carriers were hydraulic-pneumatic and according to Wikipedia, Lexington used flywheel powered catapults.  So, Enterprise would fit in between.
 
There is a copy of a US Navy technical manual on the internet  describing the Essex Class hydraulic-pneumatic catapults.  The system used pumps to pressure a non-flammable liquid that in turn compressed air stored in large flasks.  Upon release, the rapidly expanding air provided the impulse to launch the plane.
 
Roger

Had a break in the wind this morning and was able to do the hull painting.  Two close-ups of the panel detail.  The horizontal lines were from the alternate 10mm-wide masking tape with 4 coats of Rust-oleum automotive primer on unmasked 10mm-wide strips.  I'm very pleased with the panel definition.  Vertical lines done with a fresh #11 exacto knife and the horizontal lines an artifact of the alternate lines of no-primer and 4 coats of primer.  Just enough definition.  Note that I did not do any simulated panels in the underwater anti-fouling paint part of the hull.  Seemed like overkill and I'm happy with it missing.  So, this has proved to be a very satisfactory way to simulate panel lines.  No research into where the actual panels were--just what looked like "good enough", without being obsessive about the prototype.

I have packed and shipped my rigged most with sail, tall ship models to numerous states within the U.S. and a couple to Canada. The trick to packaging a Ship model is to build a wooden frame (I use I" x 2" wood boards. I then have a base board or display base that the model is securely mounted to and seure the base to the bottom framing of the shipping frame. Once it is secure with no movement, I then take heavy duty cardboard and staple it on all 6 sides of the wooden shipping frame. But before I place the top piece of cardboard on, I fill the entire cavity with shipping foam peanuts to the top of the box. Then staple the top. Lastly, I place packing tape over all the staples to ensure nothing gets snagged during shipping. I have used this method a minimum of 40-50 times in the past 30 or so years and at best the only reported damage was a couple of rigging lines came loose.   

I think the bad comments comes from a combination of the lack of detail in some kits to the supplied thread being only one colour and easily frayed. I had not thought about the kits that were sold separately. Thinking about it now, I wonder if people can really hold a grudge that long.
 
As for the case, I have a basic understanding of how to make a case and some wood working skills, though my tools are limited. Do I have a miter saw? No. Do I have a power sander? No. Do I have a lathe? No. These are all things I would like to have in the future but just do not have the room. Right now I am wondering if it would be better to order a case and get the glass (I have cut glass and plexi before for a living). I am going to start asking around and see what materials I can get a hold of first. I will keep you posted.
 
Thank you all for the wonderful words and support. 

I don't understand why, I guess it maybe because the older Billings kits required you to purchase the fittings packages separately, which in most cases equalled or surpassed the original cost of the kit. But as far as fit and finish, I have built several Billings kits from the old kits to the newer kits and found all of them to be quite good as far as fit and finish. But then again, I have always had low to moderate expectations of most all kits, which leaves me with pleasant experience. I never try to over expect from a kit, which is to me only a starting point. 

I have packed and shipped my rigged most with sail, tall ship models to numerous states within the U.S. and a couple to Canada. The trick to packaging a Ship model is to build a wooden frame (I use I" x 2" wood boards. I then have a base board or display base that the model is securely mounted to and seure the base to the bottom framing of the shipping frame. Once it is secure with no movement, I then take heavy duty cardboard and staple it on all 6 sides of the wooden shipping frame. But before I place the top piece of cardboard on, I fill the entire cavity with shipping foam peanuts to the top of the box. Then staple the top. Lastly, I place packing tape over all the staples to ensure nothing gets snagged during shipping. I have used this method a minimum of 40-50 times in the past 30 or so years and at best the only reported damage was a couple of rigging lines came loose.   

Which is why we strongly encourage our members not to use third-party image hosting sites.
 
I hope you were able to make some progress on your model since your last update?

Well, It has been almost two years since I updated the journal.  My PdN has been completed for almost a year and a half and I completed LSS's Fair American during this time.  Now that I am in the middle of leave and my household goods have shipped to my next assignment, I find myself with lots of time to provide an update.
 
In July 2012, I moved on to the main mast installation and rigging.  The main is much simplier than the fore, none of those mysterious lines to figure out and I had worked out my techniques for ratlines, serving, etc... I did however, run out of rigging lines and had to order more.
 
I installed the stays and shrouds in pairs and added the horizontal planks to the shrouds.  I decided to exceed the model kit in a few places such as the hearts being added. (It appears I have forgotten how to have my images orient properly' they look fine on photobucket...)
 

 

 
The ratlines went fast due to my index card that was marked for spacing. although I did have some sliding since I was not gluing each knot as I progressed.
 

 
The upper ratlines got tight as expected but were not too bad.

 
Here is an in progress photo taken on the 17th.

 
This week ended with a decision to sew sails and add them causing some changes such as having to remove the rings from the masts and fashion new ones as well as more research into how a sail is actually fashioned, attached and manipulated.
As I reveiw my excel spreadsheet daily journal, I loved my comment "I love ratlines" and also noticed this was the week after our honeymoon (finally) in New Orleans.

I have packed and shipped my rigged most with sail, tall ship models to numerous states within the U.S. and a couple to Canada. The trick to packaging a Ship model is to build a wooden frame (I use I" x 2" wood boards. I then have a base board or display base that the model is securely mounted to and seure the base to the bottom framing of the shipping frame. Once it is secure with no movement, I then take heavy duty cardboard and staple it on all 6 sides of the wooden shipping frame. But before I place the top piece of cardboard on, I fill the entire cavity with shipping foam peanuts to the top of the box. Then staple the top. Lastly, I place packing tape over all the staples to ensure nothing gets snagged during shipping. I have used this method a minimum of 40-50 times in the past 30 or so years and at best the only reported damage was a couple of rigging lines came loose.   

Absolutely beautiful Work Vlad. First off, you need to list where you are located, how much you want for the model, willingness to ship and geographical shipping area.
 
There used to be a website called Tall Ship Models inc. owned and operated by Morey Benton out of Canada where I used to have several models listed for sale as well as receive commission work from his site. I believe his site is out of business now, the last dealings I had with him has been close to 10 years ago. But this was back when options were limited, now you have all kinds of free to minimal fee sites to post your wares. It's a shame not to finish it after all the work you put into it. I have seen a few representations of the model you built, but unfortunately none with mast and rigging again a shame because that is the best part of the build to me.  

I have packed and shipped my rigged most with sail, tall ship models to numerous states within the U.S. and a couple to Canada. The trick to packaging a Ship model is to build a wooden frame (I use I" x 2" wood boards. I then have a base board or display base that the model is securely mounted to and seure the base to the bottom framing of the shipping frame. Once it is secure with no movement, I then take heavy duty cardboard and staple it on all 6 sides of the wooden shipping frame. But before I place the top piece of cardboard on, I fill the entire cavity with shipping foam peanuts to the top of the box. Then staple the top. Lastly, I place packing tape over all the staples to ensure nothing gets snagged during shipping. I have used this method a minimum of 40-50 times in the past 30 or so years and at best the only reported damage was a couple of rigging lines came loose.   

Absolutely beautiful Work Vlad. First off, you need to list where you are located, how much you want for the model, willingness to ship and geographical shipping area.
 
There used to be a website called Tall Ship Models inc. owned and operated by Morey Benton out of Canada where I used to have several models listed for sale as well as receive commission work from his site. I believe his site is out of business now, the last dealings I had with him has been close to 10 years ago. But this was back when options were limited, now you have all kinds of free to minimal fee sites to post your wares. It's a shame not to finish it after all the work you put into it. I have seen a few representations of the model you built, but unfortunately none with mast and rigging again a shame because that is the best part of the build to me.  

Hi all, 
well ...sort of unusual post from me...but its part of mshipworld and better in community here I guess before I turn into oblivion of ebay :)) 
I decided to let myself made 1:48   winchelsea ( syren ship)  go for the reason I can keep hobby afloat.
If there might be small intetest at least :))) 
im writing here ss if you may know someone in UK or US whom would model make happy for little more than I paid for parts or if someoje would like to continue rig her......tons of hours not counted. I would happy overall. I dont like to mesh with quality terms like "museum" blabla we all know what it means someones work is showing itself, i guess likes on pages showed at least few portions of overall huge commitments could fall into category...:) 
some parts were myself made...color is pretty much true to famous Greenwich museum protityoe model was taken of off...
 
my honest log is very well open here and here is few photos of process. 
maybe I could make nice stand as we go...
 
 
many thanks, ...
few pics in my dropbox ...
 
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/33dbuwhldr7pfrgg2xrle/h?rlkey=b3c74u4ckqfoyggo1lec76a9w&dl=0
 
thanks much
Vladimir, Slovakia 
 

The PE looks great. I had a love hate relationship with it myself.

No wonder they were out of stock.... It took me two months to get 6 cans of that Automotive Primer.... 🙂
 
Yves

Beautiful job on the Connie, which usually takes 18-24 months to build if your not in a rush. 

The PE looks great. I had a love hate relationship with it myself.

I'm waiting for the wind to die down enough to use my balcony "paint booth" to spray the final hull color.  Once that's done, I'll be able to assess the painted hull panels.  I've painted the interior of the hanger deck and masked all of this area in preparation for hull painting.  Enclosed is a picture of the painted interior.  I have attached all the PE brass pieces to the hull that I am wanting to be painted hull color (mostly hatches).  The rest of the PE brass is going to be chemically treated for a gray color before assembly and placement on the hull.  I'll have more details on this later.
 
In painting the hanger deck, I initially used Rust-oleum 2X gray primer, but after application, it was closer to a dark blue than gray.  After seeing this, I reappraised my thoughts on paint color.  The 2X primer looked very much like the "Measure 21" camo scheme, where all vertical surfaces were 5N "Navy Blue"--a very dark blue with gray tones.  This camo scheme persisted from mid-'42 to '45.  Horizontal surfaces, including the flight deck were 20B "Deck Blue", which was a lighter color.  CV-6 was one of the few Fleet Carriers certified for night operations, so the idea of modeling this period became attractive.  I was initially going to do the usual Gray hull and wood deck, but that would only have been indicative of a post-WWII period.
 
I repainted the hanger deck with Rust-oleum Automotive gray primer, which is my stand-in for battleship gray and when I do the hull, it will be with the 2X primer.  MK-1 does not do a blue deck (Pontos-only) so I plan to stain my wood-colored deck with Minwax semi-transparent oil-based "Navy Blue".  So, that's the plan for now.