Jack12477

Nicely done, Ken. Looks great.

Grant, been away from the sight for a few days, just catching up. I echo everyone else's comments as well. I've lost two Corgis in the past few years, so I know the loss you are feeling. My sympathies to you and your family.

Bob, mine is the model 220 also - has the same config shown in your picture

In Bob's 1st photo, to the right of the stand there is a black knob (horizontal - just above and behind the drill), when you loosen that knob it allows the drill to rotate - on my stand that mechanism has "detents" that "click" at different positions as you go around the arc. Never measured the resulting angle(s) but one of them is 90 degrees and one is 45 degrees. Check you model and see if it works the same way. They're like "click stops"

Looking great, Augie. I like the color of the woods.  Gotta be careful with those #11 blades, tho. Their as dangerous as my woodcarving knifes.

Great idea Bob. Thanks for the tutorial. Will have to use that myself, especially since I have that same Dremel stand and tool.

Ken, glad the dish detergent helped.

Ken, when I did my Model RR ballast I used a 4 parts water to 1 part glue plus 2 drops of detergent. Not sure if that would work for the rope versus your 50-50 mixture. It left the Model RR ballast firm but slightly elastic. Also not sure if 4-1 ratio will allow the rope to stick to the deck; it should hold the rope coils together without overly stiffening them, but not sure about the deck holding ability.

Ken, if you add a drop or two of liquid dish detergent (e.g. Dawn) to the diluted white glue - it acts as a "wetting agent", i.e. breaks down the surface tension of the water and makes it soak in better. I used to use it for laying down ballast on my model RR.

there is a beautiful collection of these bone ships at the US Naval Academy Museum in Annapolis. I've personally seen them (along with the Roger's collection) and they are amazing models. Well worth the visit

Richard, I have the WE248 model (3,000-23,000 RPM). I've used it to sand as well as drill (#76 bit) and it works fine for modeling. Yes they do list it as a woodcarving tool but it work great on my wood ship models. It's light weight and shape make it great for small jobs. The thing that sold me was the fact it accepts all of the Dremel colletts so I can use all my Dremel bits as well as various sized drill bits. I got in a WoodCraft store in Delaware for about $85.

Can't speak to the portable version, 243. Have not seen that model.

Per, I encountered the "problem" with my kit. I searched around in my stash of wood leftover from previous kits until I found some that matched Chuck's plans and ignored MS' instructions.  Worked fine for me once I found the right wood.

Jack,

Do you know the weight of the WeCheer?

 

Richard 

Richard, sorry for delayed response - been away.  The WeCheer is 2.88 oz or 82 g. That's just the unit, it has a plugin transformer which attaches via a small cord to the unit.  I find it very comfortable to use and since it takes all the Dremel colletts I can use all the Dremel bits and still use small drills.

Grant, I have an external HD (1-TB) dedicated to my photos and MSW articles/logs. I upload directly from it and don't use the built-in HD on my laptop for MSW at all. Let the Admiral have the internal HD and you use the external HD.

Very well done Erik. Came out a lot better than mine. I have to second what Danny said above.

Dan,

Looks like I'm the first to pull up a chair and watch.   I do remember the sinking of Andrea Doria well

I have 2 Dremels and a WeCheer micro engraver which accepts all of the Dremel brand collets so it can take any size drill bit that Dremel can. The WeCheer is excellent for very fine small work. I use them interchangeably. See WeCheer photo below

Likewise from me!

And while you are in the folder/desktop where your pictures are, hold down the CTRL key and while holding it down CLICK on each photo you want to upload, when you've finishes selecting all your photos then click OPEN and ATTACH and follow George's instructions above

Ken, thanks for the link - will look into it. Also the explanation on heat sinks.

Hi Ken, I have your book also - no prior soldering experience unless you count soldering a couple wires to an N-scale model RR track - been reading it over. Had same question as George about heat sinks.

Love your cannons and carronades - really nice results.

It looks more pleasing to my eye also but I'll defer to Cog and Augie.

I did borrow my Admirals cutter and green cutting mat to cut some sails from a sail pattern. Worked like a charm - cuts smoothly and accurately like a hot knife through butter.  Great tool

When I was doing plastic models I used Squadron Green Putty to fill in the gaps where parts didn't mate properly. Sands and paints nicely.  Model is looking good Popeye.

Yes, our neighborhood sounded like a re-creation of the bombardment of Fort Sumter all last night - our dog hid in her bunker  till 6AM today.  Boat's looking good, Dennis.