Jack12477

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

A small progress update.
 
The propellor shaft lengthening has been a success. I ended up using some 1/16" brass rod that I just happened to have kicking around. It's a little bit thicker than the cast propellor shaft, so I did have to drill out the prop hub, but otherwise everything has worked out (prop spins freely, and there's more than enough to glue on the spinner). I blackened the new shaft as well as the exhaust manifold mounting brackets (fiddly tiny fold-y pieces):
 

 
There are three brackets required per engine.
 
Speaking of the exhaust manifold, I've been having a little fun getting that piece ready. On the prototype these manifolds appear to be unpainted, for obvious reasons, and I wanted to replicate a little bit of the heat action on the metal. Airfix would have you simply paint them a "gun metal" colour, and Eduard says to paint them "stainless steel".  My approach was to first paint the cowling a silver/aluminium colour. For the second layer I dry-brushed some Floquil brass. I drew this very thin coat down almost the full depth of the manifold. This was then followed by a dry brushed coat of Floquil copper. I tried to keep this focused more along the front of the manifold. Overall I think the effect works:
 

 
It's not quite as red as it appears in the above photo (and that large silvery area on the right is a result of the natural light). For the most part I'm satisfied with how things are going so-far, I may add another thin dry brush coating of blueish gunmetal colour, but I'll do a trial first on some scrap before I commit.
 
Andy

Evening all,   I thought I would return to this, I have  stalled  with my Dino  build  while I decide  what else  I can add to it,   so   -  more  paint on the 5th  KGL  injured  -  cuff  details / collars  and  final  touch ups,   just needs  washes  and  dry brushing.
 
OC.

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

No apologies required brother, I WAS careless and have learned from my mistake! Ain't that the way we all learn.
These logs wouldn't be half as interesting without the admission of errors, the conversations on what and how it went wrong and how it's put right, with the advice received and diligently (although not always😊) used.
In hindsight, text didn't convey my humorous aside very well🤷‍♂️.

The 1972 First Edition of the U.K.'s Model Shipwright "quarterly" publication (actually a hardcover book).
In the Twiggy-era late 60's, early seventies, a tie was optional as the fellow on the left confirms. However, looking on the rear cover of the same issue, some modelers chose not only to wear a suit and tie, but also an attractive chapeau (second photo).

While HMS Camilla is removed from her water setting and while I await some painting supplies, I decided to make her mainmast pennant and have some fun with the various figures that will be her "minimalist" crew.
 
First and foremost, Cpt Pennypincher was in hospital for some emergency surgery (a toothpick for a right wooden lower leg). After a few days of PT, Pennypincher made his way to Camilla's deck without assistance.

Captains Pennypincher and Wigglesworth had a natter about who will command Camilla once she's put into service. There's controversy at the Admiralty about a commanding officer in His Majesty's Service having a "disability;"
 
"Do you not feel your impairment will compromise your ability to lead His Majesty's frigate?" C.W. Wigglesworth postulates.
 
"Bollocks!" asserts Pennypincher: "My new leg is as good as new. When my men see I am fully capable of being their Captain, the consequences for their enhanced esprit de corps are immeasurable."

Pennypincher further reminds Wigglesworth of an important precedent: "Do you not agree Admiral Lord Nelson's missing right arm does not impair his judgement and ability to lead?"
 
Wigglesworth retorts: "Sir, you insult me by having no hesitation to compare yourself favorably with his excellency Lord Nelson!"
 
...to be continued as Camilla's crew members weigh-in on the argument...in the interim...

HMS Camilla's mainmast pennant catching the following wind. Its halyard was tricky to terminate to the top truck but it's convincing enough to my eye in 1/64 scale.
 
The long pennant is made from two thicknesses of 28lb printed copier paper imaged from a PDF file of the shape. After gluing the two printed layers together and trimming them, I carefully wrapped the long laminated strip around three different paint bottles to get the gentle curves. The result of the two-layered paper is holding well so far.
 
To achieve a convincing shaped form, the previous pennant I made had a 30 ga. annealed florist's wire enclosed between the two layers running the entire length; my new approach to making this flag may - or may not- hold...I'll see if I need to return to a previous technique over the next few weeks.
 

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

Careless application! That sounds like just what I was doing😔. I'll consider myself reprimanded🥺🤭😊😉
Thanks for all the information gentlemen .

Thanks Dan this kit almost hit the trash can some time back been at it for 3/5 months now.I had already bought the decals and I am waiting for a GB to start on another forum and decided to give it another go.The idea is as you stated to lend itself to that impression and think once rigged and decaled it will look the part methinks.
 
Got some touch-ups but not much.

Thanks.
 
Continue with the Protetto
The rear is only sparsely detailed.

Better

Front under construction.

A 16th century 1/45 English swivel opposite to an Italian 1/72 Autoprotetto.. 😇

 

I'm actually preparing and planning my paint sequence. In order to do so, I will apply a lot of wear to the wing roots and like in the real world, I sprayed some dark aluminum on followed by a coat of hairspray. Next will be primer color, then chipping through the primer onto the aluminum, then sealing everything under a protective gloss coat, pre shading and -mottling, hairspray again and then the tri tone camo with all the galore. That's the plan at least and I hope, I don't paint myself into a corner .
 

 
As a side project the propeller got treated similar. First dark aluminum, then hairspray, then yellow for the tips, hairspray again. Next will be masking the yellow tips off and apply some Nato black.
 

 

 
It's hard to say, but sometimes I hate the precision of Tamiya kits. Why, for example with the landing light, the fit is so tight, that my very cautiously applied Contacta Clear splashed a bit, when the clear part snapped in, bummer. Now I have to find a story, why this soiling happened with the real one.
For the multiple lights on the Corsair, I use my trusty Uschi van der Rosten chrome pigments, which give a very realistic shine for the reflectors. I also tried Molotow's chrome markers, but they failed again.
 

 
The formation lights got the same treatment, except for the clear colors applied before.
 

 
Cheers Rob
 

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

They also make a Gloss and Flat finish in same size bottles, which I use for smaller areas. And I also use Pledge Revive It (bottle on right in Egilman's post above).  

Micro set is nothing but acetic acid (vinegar) mixed with water...
Micro Sol is a combination of alcohols, I do not know which ones nor their percentage of mix...
 
Walther's Solvaset is the same mix as Micro Sol, (but I do not know it's percentages either) and do the same things as Micro Sol...
 
Users preference as to which works better... I've reached the point where I no longer use Micro Set and go straight to Micro Sol over Future over Enamel paint... (I do not use acryls except for Future)
 
I have never had a problem with Micro Sol or Solvaset over Future and I've used both... 
 
One issue just might be the version of Future used, there are several versions in fact... There is the clear acrylic version in the squeeze bottle, the milky looking cloudy version in the pour bottles and from what I remember several other versions available in the marketplace...
 
They are NOT all equal...
 
For example...

Two different products... Take a look at the scan tag on the back of the bottle...

IDENTICAL! they are the same product....
 
It is also the correct product for decaling either one...
 
An example of an incorrect one?

the one in the middle is not the same product as the two on the outside, it comes out of the bottle as milky white, more like an acrylic cover coat for bare wood floors which usually dries in an hour but takes several days to fully cure... Good for that new wood flooring you installed throughout your home not for painted surfaces....
 
You notice on the two outside3 bottles, the say protect and restore, they are a coating/sealer for already finished surfaces... 
 
There is a huge difference between the two....
 
Make sure your using the correct one....
 
PS: yes I've used straight, undiluted white vinegar to set decals in the past when I was out of Micro Sol, it does work very fast, but destroys more decals than it sets....
 
The cloudy future issue with setting solutions is not letting the acryl paints or future clear coats cure long enough before applying the future... This allows the Microsol alcohol based product to react with the future, 99% of the time a recoat of future will remove the cloudyness...
 
Decals silvering is the decal not adhered to the surface allowing air to get under the decal, impossible to fix once a clear coat is applied and has nothing to do with the setting solutions...
 
Sorry brothers, I have to say it...
 
Decal silvering is caused by incorrect or careless application, period...
 
EG
 
 
 
 
 

Great choice of kit, Edward, I have the large one from Tamiya waiting to be build. Most of te Tamiya decals are relatively thick and don't lay down perfectly.
I recommend gloss coating as a base layer, which helps a bit and minimizes the risk of silvering, if the surface is even and glossy. Using Future / Pledge, has it's disadvantages, because it can react with Micro Sol, when you brush it onto the area around the decal. I had cloudy effects in the past, which luckily disappeared after spraying another layer of Future / Pledge after decaling.
The Micro fluids help laying the decal better onto the surface (Set) and soften it a bit for better integration (Sol). The thickness of the decals remains the same and I think the only way to integrate them a bit better, is with some layers of gloss coat. 
 
Cheers Rob

As already said by @Canute, the only way to avoid silvering of decals is to prepare the surface with a gloss coat. Unfortunately this means that you have to restore the wanted finish (matt or satin) afterwards. The Tamiya decals are known to be thick and recalcitrant to settling agents Pressing them down with pads soaked with rather hot water might help (probably the heat softens the decals and helps them to conform). If you have a look to my Spitfire in the link below you may see the result that I obtained with them. There I used hot water followed by numerous applications of Micro set/sol. I also sliced the decals around recessed or prominent details in several cases.
Dan

I'm here also. 

I thought it be best to start a thread on this instead of posting in the Re.2005 thread.I have applied some oils I actually have the whole plane done now dare not touch anymore ATTM.The oils do leave a brush stroke pattern even with me thinning some with mineral sprites it is a little better but strokes still present.I am thinking this may just work??

Congrats to her

Well done ! 👍👍👍