hof00

Hi Ian, That's a rather large Hull!! Several years ago, I remember a build Log for this. (Can't recall where, sorry.) Anyway, the builder ran out of Decking Planks/Material.... I guess be judicious with the "Waste." Cheers....HOF.

Thanks Rick.

Hi Rick, Et All, I have taken a few photos to hopefully illustrate the method to the madness.... 🙂 At this time, I am concentrating on manufacture of the Chainplates and have not as yet "Notched" the lower Channels, nor have I Blackened/Filed/Drilled/Tweaked the Chainplates, so, you will have to imagine them fixed in place under the Lower Channel. Yes, the Chainplates are long at the mo., this will give me something to hold while "Manipulating." A big advantage, the Deadeyes sit "Flat" on the Channel, no nasty gap and in line. The method seems to work, a bit of time but very cheap, the wire was harvested from a bit of heavy electrical flex that I have in my Garage. The solder is 3% Silver, 1% Copper and 96% Tin with a "No Clean" Flux Paste. (I just have to be careful not to "Flame" the Deadeye. 🙂) Cheers.... HOF. Photos:

Hi Rick, Thank you for your kind comments and advice, appreciated. 🙂 I have started my Chainplate manufacturing process, ("Prototyping"), and have rescued my already constructed Lower Channels. Quite correct, I could not live with the kit Chainplates, they just did not look correct at all. (I had pinned the Fore Starboard-Side kit Chainplates, no good at all.) I have viewed your Flying Fish build on more than one occasion to see how you have done the Chainplate/Channel construction. I am utilizing 0.6mm Copper wire to form both the Deadeye Strop and Chainplate, pinch the wire together around the Deadeye and draw the wire, (Straight), together to form the Chainplate and run solder along the joint. (Chainplate) The only downside is no articulated Deadeye strop. Thus far I have almost completed the Fore Chainplates. I decided to use Copper wire as it is much more malleable especially around 3.0mm Deadeyes. (I did experiment with 0.6mm annealed Brass wire.) So, that's the state of affairs at the mo. and I'll get some photos when I have something to show for my time. 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi All, Small update, no photos as yet. I have been struggling with the Chainplates for some time. I have decided to put the kit supplied parts in the "Too much trouble" basket and manufacture my own. This has the possibility of Lower Channels "Back in play" and this is what I am working towards.... (I am pleased that I kept these....) I have had many E-Mails with Daniel from Dusek Models to ascertain if he had replacements for Flying Cloud. (As it happens, he does, and they are an improvement in the form of Laser cut Aluminum.) I am still keeping my options open here, Daniel will review the Shipping cost in a couple of weeks but mentioned to me that the Shipping would probably be around 60.00 Euro. Hats' off to Daniel thus far for his efforts and Customer Service!! Tomorrow will be more "Experimenting" with Chainplates, and I'll post photos of development ideas in a few days. BTW All the best for everyone in 2026!! Cheers....HOF.

Hi Rob, Thank you very kindly for your comments, much appreciated. I'll go with what I am comfortable with and with what "Prototyping" shows me. Even though not 100% I am hopeful the finished result will be acceptable. 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Thanks Ron, I'm trying my best, my first at 1/96.... Tolerances are much "Tighter." 🙂 Yup, the "Table" has already proved its worth, edge drilling 1.5mm Lower Channels, even though they will not be used. Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi All, Lower Channel update.... I began by pinning the Fore Lower Channels to the Hull, easy enough. I then decided to make s Mock-Up, (Prototype), the Channels to fit the Chainplates. (I had already drawn this out....) As per my Drawing, the Chainplates were too short, esp. the Backstay Chainplates. Regarding the Backstay Chainplate with respect to the Lower Channels, the slot that I would have to cut in the Lower Channel to accept the Chainplate would leave about 1.5mm thickness where the Channel meets the Hull, far too thin. The kit utilizes a 2.0mm thick strip mounted on the Lower Rub Rail to simulate the Lower Channels. I now have to choose the way forward: Not really keen to construct/replace the Chainplates Lower Channels are not designed for this kit Not 100% accurate to leave Lower Channels off Photo, (On Box), looks just fine without Lower Channels Pushing ahead with Lower Channels risks breakages KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid Finally, what am I building this for? It is something that I enjoy, not a gift or presentation. My decision to omit the Lower Channels may upset some who are following this thread but that's just the way it is, constraints of the kit, engineering/design do not allow for modification. So, in conclusion, this model will be "Devoid" of Lower Channels I have tried and prototyped to install these items; I have to admit a small defeat.... With this attempt out of the way, I can concentrate on mounting/positioning Chainplates with only Upper Channels. In saying all of the Above, I will most probably install a 1.0mm strip on the lower Rub Rail where the Channel would have been, this will assist in Marking and positioning individual Chainplates and will be more in keeping to the kit design. Onward!! Many more challenges ahead.... 🙂 Cheers....HOF. Photos:

Hi Chap, Looking good!! I missed the scale, 1/48? I have been looking, just looking, at thr Revell 1/32 version, re-released this year. I'll be interested to see the final result. Cheers.... HOF.

Hi All, It's been a while since I last posted so here is a little progress. I am, at present, working on the Lower Channels. I have been thinking about how to approach these for some time. The solution that I have settled on, (Hope it works.... 🙂) Photocopy Channel parts from plans Paste to 1.50mm Ply Cut out parts, Scroll Saw Drill holes, (Edgewise), through Channel Pin to Hull Mark Chainplate positions Remove Channels from Hull Cut Chainplate locations Install Channels Install Chainplates Install Channel Capping strips Simple? If you have a look at #156 in the photos you can see how much the Channel deviates from the photocopy template. this is due to the changing shape of the Hull towards the Bow. (I used a Profile Guage for this. The other Channels, #157/#158 will be sanded to fit closer to the time. I eyeballed the fit of these, the photocopy template is not too bad. (I have made two of each Channel, in case I need to re-work something.) To facilitate Edge Drilling these components, I took the plunge and purchased a X Y Table and Clamping Vise. from Ali Express for NZD $142.00. (Inc shipping) This item is available from many different sites on the internet. The Table will also be useful for many other tasks, i.e. Main-Top Fairleads, etc., etc. (I have had a play at edge drilling the Channel material, its quick and easy. 🙂) Right, so that's where I am at the mo. Much more "Jiggery Pokery" to go Cheers.... HOF. Photos:

Hi Chap, Very nice work!! Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Thanks Rob.

Hi Peter, Thanks for that. Yup, you're 100% correct, "Eat the Elephant one bite at a time." 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi All, Small update: Today, I finished off the Sky-Sail Yards, (Royals completed last week.), that completes the full "Suite" of Spars inc. Boom and Gaff. (I hope that my work pays off.... As mentioned in a previous post, I wasn't 100% happy with my work. (At this juncture, "It is what it is." and it's time to move on with the build. 🙂)) I feel it's time to affix the last 3 Capstans and Mooring Bitts. After this small task, it will be time to work on Lower Channels and set up Shrouds/Chainplates, not something that I am looking forward to.... 🙂 Anyway, that's me for the mo. Cheers.... HOF. Photos:

Thanks Ian, I purchased some "Tiny" Black Glass beads, (NZD $3.00 for 100) (1.0mm)), I don't think that I'll be making Ribs for these at this scale. Possible I guess but not for me.... 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.