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JSGerson

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Everything posted by JSGerson

  1. Most of the US Navy plans that I have can be found at the USS Constitution Museum which are free to the public to download. I have collected a few more obscure plans from various other sources of the years. Should you need photos, I have accumulated thousands of images of the ship from the present day all the way back to 1857. Earlier than that you will have to rely on contemporary paintings for images. Jon
  2. For anything that requires sharp, precise edges, I use Boxwood. Basswood is too soft and frays at the edges. BTW, here are some US Navy drawings for the columns.
  3. There is an excellent model of the 1797 configuration of the Frigate Constitution by Mark Antczak that were posted on Usetosail's log starting at post #556. Unfortunately, the original site these images were posted on, American Marine Models no longer exist there. I do have another set of 19 B&W images of a 1797 configuration model from the US Navy should you be interested. Hopefully these model will help you construct your model. Enjoy the journey Jon
  4. I just found your build log today. It looks like you are on an exciting, if not challenging endeavor. I have some additional US Navy plans of the stem that may (or not) help.
  5. Well worth the effort! BTW, what kind of wood did you use for the molding? It took the the sharp bends very nicely. Jon
  6. Are you sure the log was on MSW? Could it have been on Ships of Scale or Model Ship Builder? Jon
  7. I went back and looked at the other model brands and think I found what you were looking for, complete with the farewell. I had him mislabeled as a non-MS model builder. Captain Steve Jon
  8. Just remember, it's a model, not a replica. It can be as detailed or simple as you want it. It is, after all, YOUR model. Jon
  9. To help gain some space for the eagle, maybe thin the molding a bit. If you look at the plans, the molding on the plans are a bit narrower than your fabricated moldings. Sanding their inner surfaces will also eliminate any kinks left over from the pins used in forming the curves. I assume you didn't use the kit's laser cut moldings because they didn't suit your purposes or aesthetics? Jon
  10. Ohh, I bet you thought you had me on this one. I know of 38 builds which have not been completed (at least not posted online). I defined a build as dormant if I have not seen any postings for two or more years. Of the 38, 17 are not Model Shipways full hull: Billing Boats - 1 Bluejacket - 3 Constructo - 1 Mamoli - 4 Mantua - 1 Scientific - 2 Scratch - 1 MS Cross Section - 2 Mamoli Cross Section - 2 Scratch Cross Section - 1 That leaves 24 incomplete builds. Based on your query of a completed hull with partial masts and no rigging, I have these four candidates: Jeff Toma Livingstoneman Maturin52 Mundie If none of these four are not the build you remembered, maybe he wasn't building a Model Shipways model. I still might have him listed as an active builder (25) who has posted in the last year or so but just not recently. These I haven't checked. Then of course there are the completed builds (28). Let me know if I should look some more. Jon
  11. Yes, I agree, my method of making the pseudo bolts was tedious, but I feel in some ways easier than other methods I've seen including the Mr. Hunt's in his practicum. Making and applying the "bolts" was just a matter of punching out tiny "rivets heads" out of thin copper plate. The tedious part was applying a couple of thousands of them to the model. My method was to make a bunch "rivets" then apply them with Wipe-on Poly. That gave to time to position them where they needed to go. You get into a rhythm and it gets done. The illusion method works too, but you can't make mistakes, because once the holes are dilled, you hide them, but you can't remove them. Either method takes time. Jon
  12. It's a nice optical illusion. I used the same method for the bolts on those big wooden cleats on the spar deck.
  13. Thank you very much for showing us mortals how it's done. I was on my way figuring out this process by trial and error until I ran into my drilling problem. (We will see if I fixed that.) Hopefully you have reduced my chances of committing an over abundance of errors. Again, many thanks Jon
  14. I don't have the 3-D printer plans, but I do have the original source US Navy plans. There is a lot of detail that has to be whittled down to the resolution of the printer. That's a lot of work in and of itself. Jon
  15. Unegawahya - (I posted this on my log, but I'll repeat here) The finial is phenomenal, especially the spoke hub. It looks like the assembly was made from 3 or 4 pieces. What is the basic diameter? When I get to it, I would like to reproduce it, so any details you can provide would be helpful. In total admiration, Jon
  16. Unegawahya - The finial is phenomenal, especially the spoke hub. It looks like the assembly was made from 3 or 4 pieces. What is the basic diameter? When I get to it, I would like to reproduce it, so any details you can provide would be helpful. In total admiration, Jon
  17. Oh well, it was wishful thinking. Shipyard shut down today due to noise pollution. I am having my 20yr old roof replaced, and there are eight guys with hammers banging away on my roof. They should be finished by the end of the day. Jon
  18. Thanks for your efforts, but the link you provided is for round tube. You got lucky in finding square tubing with a round inside. I've been to the K&S site, Ace Hardware site, Hobby Lobby site, and Google in general; no luck. I did get my first order of new drill bits, so I'll see how that goes soon. Jon
  19. I have never seen that brass item (1/16" square cross section, round hollow section) at Hobby Lobby or Hobby Town, my only local shopping choices. Hobby Lobby is mostly a crafts store and my local Hobby Town (30 miles away) is mostly an RC and toy store. Even online, I haven't seen that item. What is the K&S No.? Jon
  20. I can believe your hand ached, been there done that. That is one reason I tried using the Dremel. Also, I wanted to ensure that I got a straight and true drill hole, which is the reason I used the drill stand. If I understood you correctly, where did you get square cross-section brass bar with that were hollow? I'm still waiting for the drill bits I originally ordered plus the ones Mustafa suggested. If those bits bite into the brass, the fabrication process should be much easier if not tedious. Jon
  21. I would be proud to have these quarter galleries on my model. Well worth the effort. Jon
  22. Peter, I have a 1900 photo of the ship when she was covered with a wooden housing structure, and even then she had the canopy brass. In this configuration she was a training ship and then a receiving ship. I don't think tourists were visiting the ship then which would mean the canopies were original to the function of a working naval ship. That means to me, they are not optional. If others model makers could do it, so can I. I may not have all the proper tools. but I do have tenacity😬. BTW, I did try using an awl, but at these scales, it was like using a blunt instrument and made no workable impression. I found that using push pins did make a light impression, but my drill bits just didn't want to play nice. Still waiting on the new bits to arrive. Jon
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