72Nova
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The beakhead grating modifications are completed by painstakingly cutting away unwanted areas and creating the openings for the gammoning, also added some deck detail to the bulkhead filler piece. Thanks for looking. Michael D. -
Hi Marc, I used a thinned wash of acrylic raw umber followed by a thin wash of black then sprayed some flat clear. I'd say that's a reasonable assumption regarding the doors and more then likely I'll fab some up. Michael D.
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That helps greatly Peter, I would've never thought of rigging the lanyard that way👍. Working on fitting the bulkhead to the deck and not quite liking it, I knew as supplied the deck has a raised step in it and I thought the bulkhead railing would cover or at least rest on top but that is not the case so I shaved it down and scribed planks in it.... while it's visible seam I was fine with it then realized when I fit the bulkhead, I'd have 2 seams which doesn't look very good so I cut a piece veneer to solve that issue and looks presentable. Up next will be the stairs and fabricating the grating in the beakhead, I'm still undecided whether or not to build the doors. Thanks again Peter for your help. Michael D.
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Thank you Waldemar and Peter👍. After looking at the latest belaying plans I needed to add an additional 20 belaying pins along the rails, unfortunately gentlemen I'll likely be knee deep into the rigging by the time Vasa 2 book is released, with that said I see Ver. 07 of the plans show no belaying points of the fore and main trusses so I'll have to make an educated guess on those but logic would say either abaft or aft at the base of the masts?. Now regarding the main stay collar deadeyes I suppose they're rigged like the shroud deadeyes except after passing through all 4 holes on the lower you still have 2 holes remaining in the upper..hmmm, would the line loop through those and tie off at the stay? Michael D.
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Just what I was looking for Peter!👍 I do have a question regarding the older set of plans Fred Hocker had posted many years ago, 7 sheets I think? and noted that are some errors that I think mainly are related to the line, exterior and deck but my focus is on the the sections and belaying plans as I want to attach all necessary ring bolts/blocks to the deck before assembly IE: truss tackle, halliards, bowlines locations etc, also I noticed the the tackle for the main stay collar appears to have 6 hole rectangular looking dead eyes and would like your thoughts on this particular set of plans? Thank you, Michael D.
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With the deck modifications nearing completion I needed to figure out how to deal with the main halliard fall as this would require to be rigged prior to fitting the deck, this is what I've come with in my mock up, obviously I still need to fab up a rams head for the final but I think it'll work just fine. Michael D.
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I'd have to agree with you on that Ian, they are really crisp, and the fitment is really good as well even in the dry fit stage. I cut open the deck just aft the fore bitts to create the access to the lower deck, and did some modifications to the fore bitts, although barely visible I did create 4 sheaves. The Knighthead will be tough though, trying to cut in 4 sheaves and make it look to scale could be too difficult at this scale, but we shall see! Michael D.
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Working on the deck mods at the moment, started by cutting out the molded in gratings and since I'm using a veneer deck I needed to build up the framework using misc styrene. The gratings are model shipways 33mm sq. 1mm unassembled and once the deck is glued down or before, I'll need to figure out where to cut the deck for the top rope falls and any other deck pieces besides the bitts and knightheads. Michael D.
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Looks fabulous Frank👍 You're nearing the end of another magnificent build!! Michael D.
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Those 2 pictures show a lot, thanks Peter. The 2nd picture shows a block attached to either the deck or inside of the bulwark?, the one with the dotted line. Guess I'll have to purchase the Vasa 2 book to find out 😄 The color scheme is starting to take shape, I fabricated a block with 3 sheaves that sits into the railing and started mocking up the gun port lid ropes, for this I'm using 100wt bobbin thread that looks to be the perfect scale. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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She looks lovely Marc!👍 Curious as to what blades you use? Michael D.
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I've relocated the kevel and hole in the bulwark and started the painting on the bulwarks and railing, this is proving to be a bit more difficult as I need to use a finer tipped brush, it might be a tad darker than I'd like at the moment and I can fine tune the outer railing when I start the hull with a larger squared ended brush but is looking okay. Michael D.
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So are you saying Peter I should move the kevel forward and eliminate the sheave and just have a hole aft the kevel? Michael D.
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I do hope they will be available soon but in the meantime, I can keep busy doing other mods. So this is what I've come up with after removing the pin rail, I fashioned a kevel as close to scale as possible given the scale I'm working with, I cut in a sheave for the .45mm sheet line and mocked up the routing, this should suffice? Michael D.
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Thank you for pointing that out Peter, very much appreciated! Honestly I've been scratching my head trying to figure out where the main sheet would've been tied off at as what limited literature I have and all the models I have seen show the main sheet line passing through the side underneath the Qtr deck and therefore hidden. The pin rail removal is an easy fix and I will place a kevel just aft of that gun port. Hopefully those plans would include rigging/ belaying points? but may not be available by the time I'm ready to start rigging as all I have to go by is R.C Anderson and how other modellers have rigged there's. Michael D.
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Hi Waldemar, What I meant is after I carved out the figures in the trailboard and mated up the hull halves, they do not line up and the span on the railings on the port side are a bit shorter than the starboard side. Looking at the photos maybe my model is closer to the real ship then I thought!😀. Reminds me the time when I opened up a 2 dial cannonball safe from the 1800's and disassembled it for repairs, upon assembly I discovered you could not interchange the spindles along with other misc parts, obviously each part was hand built, thanks for sharing. Thanks for the FYI Peter, I wasn't aware. I ended up harvesting an upper gunport lid to make the modification. Michael D.
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Thanks Peter, I totally forgot about the scupper and cabin window but never noticed the smaller gunport, so here's the mods I made. Thanks Marc, it's a shame the two sides do not line up exactly, pretty far off actually. Michael D.
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A crowning moment in that the modifications to the starboard side of the hull are completed, railings, all necessary kevels, pin rails etc. I had to modify the chesstree to accept the main course tack line. Once I complete the port side, both sides will be detailed sanded, and the upper bulwarks and inside of the beakhead will be painted before assembly. Michael D.
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Thanks guy's, after a little more reading, R.C Anderson does mention that when the bowsprit is centered the stay collar passed around both sides of the mast, particularly Dutch ships, there were holes in the deck and beakhead bulkhead and then to the bowsprit, that makes sense to me but looking at some of the museum photos I do not see any evidence of a hole in the beakhead bulkhead and the wood looks to be original in that area of the ship so I'll rig the stay where it passes over the top of the bulkhead. Starboard railings are just about done along with the Kevels, far from perfect but will look good in the end. Michael D.
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Hi Jan, A few things led me to this decision, first In Landstrom's book the Vasa he mentions discussions regarding this very detail and this was the practice in some Dutch ships at the time and shows an illustration in the book of the arrangement that I ultimately followed. Here's a picture of the 1:10 model at the museum showing the same arrangement and if you look closely you'll see the collar pass beyond fore mast leading into the deck...no cleat or evidence of it being made fast to the base of the mast and oddly enough in the R.C Anderson book he makes no mention of this method but does show an illustration of how they rigged it on the real ship, also in the link you posted, again if look closely at the diorama picture you'll also see the main stay collar does not extend to the base of the bowsprit, so go figure. Michael D.
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As fiddly as these railings are they are starting to take shape and will need to be built in place prior to gluing up the hull. I mocked up the main stay collar and beefed up the fore mast mounting by adding brass rod and extending the styrene base further into the deck. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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Ian the Revell kit would've been by far the best choice, all the mods I've done so far are included in the newer Revell version but trying to find is another matter, I think there's just one on ebay for like $125 plus shipping. As always thanks for the likes/compliments. Michael D.
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I started fabricating the pin rails and there are 6 total, at the Qtr deck and beakhead, the rest will be integrated into the new railings. I used .030"x.100" styrene and 24g copper wire, I dipped the end of the wire in medium ca glue and hung upside down a few minutes to form the bulbous end, It's looking pretty darn good to my eye. As always thanks for looking. Michael D.
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I was thinking along those same lines Marc. I redid all the scuppers as the supplied holes were much too big and completed the modifications to what gun ports I chose to open up using 0.26mm styrene. Up next the port side Qtr galleries and deck preparation for the wood deck which is something I do not normally do but this deck as cast is hideous. Michael D.
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