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72Nova

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Everything posted by 72Nova

  1. 72Nova
    Marc my go to for thread is wal-mart, joanns fabric stores, they carry the coats and clark brand I use for the running rigging. I use the zap a gap medium ca+ as it does not soak into the thread as much. I coat all my lines with thinned pva glue and hang them with the weight of a binder clip for a few minutes before I install them. I've found the less tension the better in keeping the lines stable, when rigging the stays do all the lower at the same time first, then all the top mast stays at the same time etc, when completed then secure the lanyards on all the shrouds, doing it this way for me anyways keeps the masts from being pulled in one direction when doing them individually. The standing back stays I complete tying them off at the mast and leave them hanging at the channels with a binder clip until most of the running rigging is complete on that mast IE: lifts, clew, bunt, leech lines etc. Same thing applies to the running rigging, both sides at the same weighting one side with small a binder clip when tying off the other working your way up the mast...very little tension!!!. When I built my Victory I used the supplied plastic spindly top gallant masts and had no issues, hope this helps. Michael D.
  2. 72Nova
    I really enjoy the rigging phase the most and need to get better at it, but pretty much trial and error Marc and looking at others technique, especially Kirill and Dafi, with no disrespect to anybody on this site, but those two are the best I've seen...but honestly glue is your best friend and for me just a simple overhand knot 90% of the time. Bobbin thread works great for seizing the lines for the running rigging as this stuff is fairly thin and depending on the scale .40 awg copper is almost human hair thin. Michael D.
  3. 72Nova
    No problem Frank, I slipped the line with a knot at the end behind the shroud so it would not pull through, crossed over the shroud and loop it back under, then feed the line behind that shroud and the adjacent one and pull tight while pulling down the shroud to tighten things up and repeat. When you get the last shroud just tuck it in behind the woolding. Hope that helps. Michael D.
  4. 72Nova
    I have the shrouds seized and used a woolding to secure them to the mast, the port side is complete with the garland, all in all not too bad. Michael D.
  5. 72Nova
    I had to redo the mast by sanding down the molded band for the shrouds as there was just not enough room since these are clinched around the mast individually, I used 0.80mm line and still need to seize them before adding the band. I also started working on the yards by sanding them down and adding a rib using 1.0mm half round styrene, on a mast this would be called a fish. Michael D.
  6. 72Nova
    Excellent work Frank and a nice reference as I will be ditching the Heller supplied Davits after seeing this. Michael D.
  7. 72Nova
    You're welcome fellas, Marc it's regular tissue paper you would see in packaging, shoes etc. Never tried Modelspan, guess I never found a need to when I first used it on my Soliel Royal. Michael D.
  8. 72Nova
    My pleasure gentlemen, regarding the sails I used tissue paper Marc and for the square sails I cut the paper to about a 1/4 of the actual size and for lack of a better term cut them into the shape of a jock strap so to speak..lol. I used pencil for the seams and then glued the bolt rope around the perimeter leaving just enough paper to fold over it then brushed thinned pva glue over that and once dried, a series of the thin washes using tamiya white and desert yellow acrylics to the desired color, turned the sail over working from the aft side, punched holes for attaching to the yard and started wetting the sail in small sections starting at the bottom middle and working my way out using brushes, tweezers etc until I had a basic shape and let that dry up a bit. With the yard fitted out with all the blocks I attached the sail to it, wet it again and using the gaskets I drew in closer the yard forming the furl, again using a brush to help form the shape in and around the leech and bunt line blocks. For the clues I used small triangle shaped pieces and tucked them into the furled sail once they were rigged. Hope that helps? Kirill I used tamiya desert yellow acrylic as a base followed by thin washes of red brown and raw sienna artist acrylics and just played with it until I got the desired effect followed by some slight dry brushing of red brown and raw sienna then picked out the seams with a black wash and used a Qtip to wipe away any excess, for the deck I used deck tan..( go figure) and a thin wash of red brown and those really were my primary colors through out the build. Michael D.
  9. 72Nova
    Hi Marc, Try this link, unfortunately I lost some of the earlier pics for the hull and deck modifications, but this should give an idea,now I'll admit this was my first attempt at kit bashing and totally green the knowledge of ships, so be easy on me..lol Michael D. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPrp-3y7ntwH1vwfFsMMf0bWByRebwVKqePmRLqCx3aptq5sMlGZp_LtYv0v-seiQ?key=RWdjbWRKQWs2X1JSaDAyVTRuMHk5U3dOTHJCSDVB Here's another link with additional pictures. Hopefully it works. https://postimg.cc/gallery/FJxTn9k
  10. 72Nova
    Regarding the application of the gold leaf I used a water based adhesive made by Martha Stewart I picked up at Michael's craft store and this stays quite tacky for hours, so you have plenty of time. I usually wait 30 minutes before applying the leaf and having a gold base helps as the leaf will tear when pressed into the crevices and blend in, it's best working with smaller pieces since this stuff is so fragile. Whats nice about the water base adhesive is if I over shot the area I plan to guild, a sharpened tooth pick will gently rub the excess away without damaging the painted area, this was very helpful when doing the Fleur de Lis on the hull. I also use masking tape for a nice clean edge where needed before applying the glue and once the leaf is applied I run a fresh blade over the tape line before removing, hope this helps? Michael D.
  11. 72Nova
    Looking through your build log is just jaw dropping!, utterly fantastic!, having gone through a similar experience back dating my Heller HMS Victory to 1765 over the course of 11years takes total commitment to reach the finish line. My hats off to you Marc and looking forward to your progress. Michael D.
  12. 72Nova
    Thank you for the compliment!. The answer to Hubac's and Kirill's question is 24 Karat Genuine Gold Leaf advertised as 99.9% pure gold, 10 sheets for approx $30 USD, not terribly expensive. Michael D.
  13. 72Nova
    Hi Christian, Thank you very much for the wealth of information you supplied especially the Galley build log. I'm with Kirill on my limited knowledge about Galley's to provide any viable information, only what I have seen regarding paintings, models etc and they all differ when comparing the decorations, colors and even the rigging....in the end it comes down to one's artistic license they choose to apply in these areas while trying be as accurate as possible. As you probably have figured out I'm basing my scheme/build off the model in the Pairs maritime museum, to me it just looks right and the lack of paint on the benches and thwarts seem to be more realistic. Thanks again for the all the info you have been providing. Michael D.
  14. 72Nova
    I will consider the recommendations gentlemen, thank you. It is gilded/gold leafed and that book looks like a good read/info Kirill thank youi. I spent some time building a new crows nest out of brass and styrene and looks much better then my first attempt. Michael D.
  15. 72Nova
    Kirill I appreciate your constructive criticism on the crows nest, Heller did not supply one in the kit I made this one using brass wire as a prototype,( never really liked it) just to get a visual. This picture shows my mock up of binding the shrouds with snaking a line in between, now if I can pull this off when it comes time to do it for real I'll be shocked!!. A revised crows nest is in the works and thank you again Kirill for your input and pictures and anymore you can provide would surely help as all I have to go by are the Hellers instructions. Michael D.
  16. 72Nova
    Thanks for the complements gentlemen. Kirill I do have those pictures of that model and the elevations of the La Royale are very helpful also, thank you!. I installed the bande on the mast and wanted to check the space available between the molded extrusion on the mast and the mast head for the shrouds. Using .80mm line I mocked up the shrouds and they fit nicely, the remaining space will be filled when they are served. Michael D.
  17. 72Nova
    I had a few that were tight also, felt like something was going to break pulling them through. Since I couldn't find any sheed blocks to my liking I started fabricating my own out of styrene, the double blocks measure out approx 11mm and the single at 8mm. I did a mock up to check out the scale and looks good to my eye. Also made some modifications to the mast head along with making up the crows nest, still undecided if I like it! Michael D.
  18. 72Nova
    Sorry for the late response, for this wood effect I used Tamiya desert yellow acrylic as a base followed by raw umber acrylic. A small update regarding the main shroud chain plates etc, I flattened 0.72mm brass rod and bent to the correct profile, I used 21 link per inch chain for the chains, a total of 9 links and styrene rod for the toggles. Michael D.
  19. 72Nova
    Absolutely beautiful work Frank, you've given me a few ideas to apply to mine. Michael D.
  20. 72Nova
    Not much of an update, but the outer gang board on the port side took a considerable amount of time to prep and install. Michael D.
  21. 72Nova
    She's really taking shape now Frank!, your craftsmanship is superb my friend. I didn't find it necessary to flip mine completely, just rolled on it's side resting on bubble wrap. Michael D.
  22. 72Nova
    I'm happy with the way the canopy turned out, just a few more decorations to add yet and time I start researching some fabric with a scale Fleur de lis pattern. Michael D.
  23. 72Nova
    Thank you gentlemen for the complements, Patrick your Golden Hind is looking fantastic!! and I like your use of acrylics🤙. Frank the blue is a 3 step process...Tamiya XF-8 blue as a base followed by Tamiya XF-1 black wash and sealed with testors dulcoat. I decided to ditch the plastic canopy outer supports in favor of 1.57mm brass rod, I also modified the the support post by relocating the support cradle aft and adding some scalloped carving to it, all of this is of course in the dry fitting stage. Michael D.
  24. 72Nova
    I started work on the railings, the detailing just never ends on this build, I'll probably be officially blind by the time I complete this. Michael D.
  25. 72Nova
    Thank you Steve, With the super structure completed I finished modifying the anchor davits, installing the ladders along with the remaining stern decorations. I used 24g brass wire for the ladder supports. Michael D.

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