72Nova
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Everything posted by 72Nova
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Thank you gentlemen, Shipman I did not know or rather wasn't paying attention to their advertising slogan but does make sense, since every build I've seen of this model does look more like a toy, except for one and that's Rex Stewart's fantastic build!!. Actually It's probably a blessing they omitted some details as they would more then likely be scratch built anyways. Michael D. -
I've also seen drawings of the collar after going through the deck, passing through the bulkhead before going around the bowsprit and this was actually the route I was going to go with but there's just no evidence of this in their findings, so I just moved forward with how they rigged the real ship and I'm fine with that. Meanwhile the rail is complete and installed and working on the ladders leading up to the Qtr deck. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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This photo really brings the stern to life, just superb craftsmanship Marc!!! Michael D.
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In response to your question Kirill about the paint, I went ahead and painted the rail before making the knees and the main stay collar rubbing block and with the repeated attempts at checking the fit you can see the piece withstood the handling pretty well with an occasional rub through here and there, on sharp corners sometimes and that is to be expected considering how thin the paint film is. Michael D.
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I was finally able to get the main deck glued in and the front portion of the Qtr deck, the toughest challenge modifying the Qtr deck was filling in the open space between the doors with 7 little carvings and I still have to build the ladders. Up front I'm doctoring up the supplied catheads and fabricating the bulkhead/fore castle rail using .60"x.60" styrene for the bottom and .30"x.60" for the top. Michael D.
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Thank you Marc and trying to achieve my goals at this scale has been fun!. Kirill my plan is fully masted and rigged, furled sails, no cannons although I will display her with the 3 recovered cannons on the base and no colors. Thank you for the compliment too. Michael D.
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Just jaw dropping paint work Marc and you're so right about the paint wearing while handling it until it's finally mounted. Michael D.
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At this point I think I'm done with the modifications to the beakhead with the addition of the 2 pin rails using .60"x.60" styrene and 28g wire for the belaying pins, the toilets and the additional steps, overall I think it looks okay. Michael D.
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Thanks for compliments and likes, very much appreciated. I finished the paint touch up for now anyway in the bow area and rigged the gammoning using .45mm rope which equates to around 2-2.5" at scale and looks pretty good. Up next I need to fabricate the two pin rails that span across the beakhead rails and rig the loose lines at the spritsail mast. Michael D.
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I totally agree with you Kirill, my objective is to have slight variations in tone of the ropes but the wooldings were a little stark and I toned them down a little, need to do a little more. The bowsprit is finally glued in along with gluing of the beakhead. I made the cut outs for the fish davits, added the steps to the bulkhead and made up the tackle for the main topmast stay, I glued together a 2.5mm and a 1.5mm blocks to make up the fiddle block. Up next I be gluing in the decks one by one in phases, thanks for looking. Michael D.
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The lower mast and mast top is just about complete, I used a 2.5mm single block and will be using .45mm line for the top rope. Michael D.
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Regardless of any misalignment issues, this has been a well thought out and engineered project Marc and can't to see her set in the actual waterline base when the time comes. Michael D
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Work on modifying the main top continues to somewhat resemble the original as much as possible. I had already opened up the space between the ribs, next I removed half of the top rail and filed down the ribs and reattached it then I used thread to simulate an additional rail on the aft end of the top. The dead eyes measure out to around 2mm and are stropped with 28g brass wire that is hooked to flattened 24g copper wire to create the chain for the futtock shrouds to hook to and will be fun when the time comes to rig. Michael D.
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Those actually look really good Ian and 3/8" would've work well but I had already stopped by Home Depot today and found some oil rubbed bronze knobs, once I cut off the top and gave them a light dry brush of gold, they look pretty good. I'm thinking the 1/2" will work on the Cutty Sark when the time comes. Thank you for the link. Michael D.
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Hey it's all good Marc. I can take a constructive criticism punch! I do like contrast with the brass but I feel an oil rubbed bronze finish would be better suited and I agree they are a tad too big. I'll see if I can find some bronze knobs and cut them down before I cut/blacken the existing ones. I appreciate your honesty though. Michael D.
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I do like the look of those furled sails. Just a small update, finally have an official base made from a couple of brass cabinet knobs and an oval oak base, painted the insides of the hull black and the main mast is still a work in progress. Michael D.
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Soleil Royal by yancovitch
72Nova replied to yancovitch's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
A brilliant idea on this hybrid so to speak of build and the masts look great also with the shorter topmasts , the Heller ones are a tad too long. Michael D. -
Looks great Frank👍Took me numerous tries using the transfer paper, mainly creating a mirror file after getting the size right so I could transfer the image on both sides at once. Michael D.
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Thanks gentlemen for the compliments, Kirill those pictures will be a huge asset moving forward with the build and as far as displaying the furled sails in an old fashioned style, do you mean with the top masts lowered?. I finally glued the hull halves together and currently working on the main mast modifications, including rounding of the masthead, adding cheeks, sheeves etc, at this point the deck, beakhead bulkhead and masts are still in the dry fitting stage. The main course tie is .63mm line that will be same size as the shrouds and .30mm line is used for the halliard, the fabricated ramshead measures out to around 5.5mm in length and looks fairly close to scale, one of the main hatch gratings was made to be removable to hopefully attach the topsail yard top rope below the deck. Please excuse the makeshift stand, I'll be working on the final shortly. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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Very nice paint work Marc, I'm actually missing this type of detail painting on my build at the moment. Michael D.
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The spritsail topsail yard is finally mounted but not quite fully complete yet with the clews of the sail and associated blocks still left to do, with the parral being so ridiculously tiny, trying to furl a sail on a yard smaller than a toothpick and the 100wt thread is like rigging with human hair, this task challenged just about whatever skill set I've got left and in the end doesn't look too bad. Michael D.
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Hi Kirill, Thanks for the compliment, yes working at this scale is very challenging to say the least. I will have the blocks, sheet lines, brace pendants and sail attached to the yard before I install it on the mast, then rig the lifts and belay them to the top before I glue the bowsprit to the beakhead then I'll have to wait to rig the sheets and braces until I fit the spritsail yard, stay and the rest of the pinrails at the beakhead. Your advice/thoughts are always well taken so no worries there. Just curious are you working on another master piece?. Michael D.
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I was wondering about the misalignments myself, heck one can eyeball it closer than that, I'm certain it was damaged some in the first attempt to raise it back in the 17th century. I figured I'm just going to complete the rest of the work in spritsail mast area starting with making the parrals, using 0.0120" styrene for the ribs, cutting them to a height of around 0.101", for the trucks I used .025" rod and used a #80 drill bit to drill the hole for a total of 4 ribs and 6 trucks. Six more blocks and a furled sail should complete the work in this area minus the final rigging. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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I spent some time finishing up rigging the rest of the blocks, cleats and fore stay collar 4 hole dead eye on the bowsprit, also using 1/16" brass rod for the spritsail top sail yard, not sure if I'm going to do all of them but this one was quite flimsy. Up next I need to finish painting the port side hull and start gluing it up. Michael D. '
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