72Nova
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Everything posted by 72Nova
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A small update of what I've been up to, working on the fore shroud lanyards, have the main stay and lanyard rigged along with the main mast tackles, the main topmast, top gallant and fore top gallant masts are just set in place for the overall shot, while far from perfect I think things are looking fairly good scale wise. Michael D. -
Great work jeff!, I would imagine you'd do the same for the stern lantern?. Couple of questions, how long does that paint glow for and how would you charge them once the model is cased?. The chevrons look great by the way, nice crisp lines!. Michael D.
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Thanks for the kind words guys, the fore stay lanyard is completed along with the four 1.5mm fore course buntline blocks, I just love the rigging phase of these builds! Cheers. Michael D.
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I started the rigging process on the fore mast, the tackles and the top sail top rope are rigged and the fore stay is halfway there, I still need to fabricate the 6 hole dead eye and then rig the lanyards. The mouse is made using 1/16" styrene rod that's filed into shape and scribed in the simulated stitching, although not noticeable at this scale, it does look pretty convincing at a larger scale, this is the technique I used on Victory... and then painted the mouse to match the rope....As always thanks for stopping by. Michael D.
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Thank you Marc, It's the figure I molded using the sculpey clay back in post#12 for stern and seemed a tad too large for that area but looks right at home earning his keep making sure the build continues scale wise under his supervision. Michael D.
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Thank you gentlemen, the task at the moment is completing the channels and the closed gun port lid ropes. Michael D.
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It was a good research project that's still on the back burner in my mind. Rudder ropes rerouted and the capstan is complete, the crew member stands a little over 6' at scale, probably a tad taller than the average man at the time but for scale purposes it looks good. Michael D.
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That's a real bummer Marc, there's always risks with these experiments but I still feel bad about it. I think building new rails etc around existing good stanchions would be the option I'd take. Michael D.
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Maybe for some form of garnet tackle?, positioned up towards the top like they are would allow them to handle more weight then say the stay tackle that's usually positioned about mid stay but then again there are tackle pendants. Stabbing in the dark here. Michael D.
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You're welcome Kirill and if I can make an educated guess I'd say they would be routed in a similar fashion, but I would use 2 ropes given the size and weight of the rudder. I was getting a headache looking at that stay rigging diagram Waldemar posted and would say yours is a good compromise, I would imagine I do not need to worry about that setup on the Vasa and go with the mouse on stay. Michael D.
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Thank you Waldemar for your valuable input that's always well received and posting those drawings, just what I needed. rerouting the rudder ropes is an easy fix since I left them long enough to pass through the tiller opening. Michael D.
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Marc I've found in most cases such as the part in question is soaking it in hot water, sometimes boiling will give the result you're looking for. I tried the flame method at first on my Victory's balconies, lucky I had two, the hot water did the trick. . Ship is looking phenomenal by the way! Michael D,
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No worries Waldemar, realistically I know I will not be able replicate this even at 80% but this is one mod I could improve upon to make it that much closer and I think it looks ok so far with the hinges still left to do. What's your thoughts on the rudder rope arrangement? Michael D.
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Kirill, Those holes are clearly visible on the original rudder, now according to Fred Hocker there's no evidence on exactly how their rigged since the ropes did survive and his thoughts are they were more than likely secured to the rudder rather then passing through and were led through the cat holes, they also could've been led up through the tiller opening as well. I search for Velde's drawings. Thanks. Michael D
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Thank you Marc and Kirill. The rudder install is completed, it is fixed in place by pins inserted through the fake pintles/hinges on either of the rudder ropes and pinned into place. back to work on the masts and capstan. Michael D.
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Marc I think you should do that diorama it would be interesting, no doubt there was some damage done when they attempted to raise her around that time frame, I believe they have a diorama of her salvage/raising in the museum? Glad you see some usefulness in that technique Kirill and is incredibly easy compared to transferring to fabric and amount of involved in that process, while I was quite pleased with flags the reality even the thinnest fabric out there is overscale even at 1:60 scale. The rudder is pretty done minus the ropes, trying to produce the gudgeons and pintles at this scale was a challenge, I used .030" rod, tape and 28g brass wire to create them and while not perfect they turned out ok. Michael D.
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Thank you for compliments gentlemen. I just used regular tissue paper and the trick is to tape it as flat/wrinkle free as possible to the printer paper to avoid major blotting/ dark spots, you'll get some that can be touched up or be hidden when furling the flag, also some of it presents a somewhat weathered look that I'm after, not wanting any vibrant colors. After I cut out the flag I seal it with dulcoat lacquer to prevent color bleed when wetting it to shape. Michael D.
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Honestly Kirill I never paid that much attention to which way the scale rope is layed, the stuff I'm using is from Syren, I guess if one really wants to get technical then a rope walk would be the way to go but not for me as I'm fine with the commercially produced stuff. You got me on the double loops on stays as they are clearly smaller diameter ropes and if I remember right you rigged them on your Galleon?, but the first picture there looks to be the mouse on the stays. I know Anderson makes no mention of not using a mouse on the lower and topmast stays. The stern is in place and will require very little filler at the bottom if any, also had this wild idea about reproducing the flags on tissue paper and was quite surprised how well it work for just a quick test run, I simply taped tissue paper to a sheet of printer paper and ran it through the printer. Michael D.
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Hi Krill, I appreciate your observation, I used .45mm line for the tackle pendants which will be the same as the fore and main shrouds and .35mm for the mizzen shrouds. The fore stay will be .76mm line and .88mm for the main, the stay collar is 3/4 of the stay so I think I'm close with the .63mm collar which is close to 4" in diameter. Here's a mock up of the aforementioned stay sizes I plan to use, given the available scale rope sizes we can only come close. As for the dead eye it measures approx 4mm x 3.5mm and indeed has 4 holes the upper dead eye will be slightly larger with 6 holes, this requires 2 lanyards to rig and those are the 2 lines you see tied to the top of the collar. Michael D.
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Thank you Frank. In my efforts to try to modify the stern as close as possible to the real ship I overlooked the Ensign staff configuration, the kit supplied staff has a knee at the base and a corresponding cut out in the deck that the original does not have...arrrrgggg!. I contemplated doing some patch work to the deck and staff but decided to move forward with this arraignment, in the end it will look acceptable. I installed the main stay collar using .063mm line, the main stay will be .088mm line when I reach that point, I believe at scale this stay measures out to 135mm diameter which would put it at .093mm at 1/144 scale, the 1.0mm line just looked too big and I find it looks better visually when the line is slightly undersized. I also added the sheaves to the insides of the bulwarks. Today's goal will be to finally glue in the stern. Michael D.
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I finally completed all the decks with the gluing in of the poop deck, up next will the stern and modifying the rudder. As always thank you for stopping by and looking at my unorthodox build sequence. Michael D.
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The flags turned out great Frank! Personally I'd go with the partially rolled back canopy to expose the beautiful detail in that area. Michael D.
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Thanks Kirill, yes I did and while this may be a gamble for most, I feel confident I can rig this without issues as long as I don't run out of talent...Lol. Michael D.
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I started dressing out the masts and yards, the fore mast is just about complete with the martnet pendants still left to do. I used a 2.5mm block for the top rope, 2mm block for the main topgallant stay and 1.5mm blocks for the lifts. The fore tackle fiddle block is made up of 3mm and 2mm blocks, cut down some to reduce their size and the double block is a 3mm britannia metal block. Both masts are just set in place at the moment for a visual. Michael D.
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I had fabricated the parrels for the main and fore course yards that are glued to the masts and did a trial run of the parrel rope, the fall tackle will be reversed rigged with the end simply tucked in behind the parrel rope. The sheet blocks are about the size of the mid section of the yard with the sheave for the lifts at a right angle. The tie is .45mm line which will the same as the shroud and fall is .30mm which is rigged through a 4 sheave knight head, all of this is in the mock up stage at this point. Michael D.
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