72Nova
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Looks great Frank👍Took me numerous tries using the transfer paper, mainly creating a mirror file after getting the size right so I could transfer the image on both sides at once. Michael D.- 510 replies
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- reale de france
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Thanks gentlemen for the compliments, Kirill those pictures will be a huge asset moving forward with the build and as far as displaying the furled sails in an old fashioned style, do you mean with the top masts lowered?. I finally glued the hull halves together and currently working on the main mast modifications, including rounding of the masthead, adding cheeks, sheeves etc, at this point the deck, beakhead bulkhead and masts are still in the dry fitting stage. The main course tie is .63mm line that will be same size as the shrouds and .30mm line is used for the halliard, the fabricated ramshead measures out to around 5.5mm in length and looks fairly close to scale, one of the main hatch gratings was made to be removable to hopefully attach the topsail yard top rope below the deck. Please excuse the makeshift stand, I'll be working on the final shortly. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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Very nice paint work Marc, I'm actually missing this type of detail painting on my build at the moment. Michael D.
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The spritsail topsail yard is finally mounted but not quite fully complete yet with the clews of the sail and associated blocks still left to do, with the parral being so ridiculously tiny, trying to furl a sail on a yard smaller than a toothpick and the 100wt thread is like rigging with human hair, this task challenged just about whatever skill set I've got left and in the end doesn't look too bad. Michael D.
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Hi Kirill, Thanks for the compliment, yes working at this scale is very challenging to say the least. I will have the blocks, sheet lines, brace pendants and sail attached to the yard before I install it on the mast, then rig the lifts and belay them to the top before I glue the bowsprit to the beakhead then I'll have to wait to rig the sheets and braces until I fit the spritsail yard, stay and the rest of the pinrails at the beakhead. Your advice/thoughts are always well taken so no worries there. Just curious are you working on another master piece?. Michael D.
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I was wondering about the misalignments myself, heck one can eyeball it closer than that, I'm certain it was damaged some in the first attempt to raise it back in the 17th century. I figured I'm just going to complete the rest of the work in spritsail mast area starting with making the parrals, using 0.0120" styrene for the ribs, cutting them to a height of around 0.101", for the trucks I used .025" rod and used a #80 drill bit to drill the hole for a total of 4 ribs and 6 trucks. Six more blocks and a furled sail should complete the work in this area minus the final rigging. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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I spent some time finishing up rigging the rest of the blocks, cleats and fore stay collar 4 hole dead eye on the bowsprit, also using 1/16" brass rod for the spritsail top sail yard, not sure if I'm going to do all of them but this one was quite flimsy. Up next I need to finish painting the port side hull and start gluing it up. Michael D. '
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Hi Kirill, I've used the ole glue on the block to tighten up the line trick for awhile now as I too hate loose the line effect, now I'm not as prolific at it as you are.... I mean I can stare at that Galleon of yours all day long and just marvel at the detail. I will definitely put the tip regarding the crows feet to use, I actually can't wait to try it! I hear what what you're saying about the spars Peter and still might consider doing them, heck I had to fashion up the Lateen yard out of wood using a cordless drill when I back dated my Heller Victory but I keep looking over at the Revell Connie I built under full saill 20 plus years ago and those royal masts and spars, which are about as spindly as the vasa spritsail mast, still look good. Your restoration project on other hand of the old Revell kit sounds really interesting!. As always I value everyone's input. Michael D.
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HI Marc, I bought various sizes of Chucks scale rope, the smallest 0.20mm I used for the shrouds and the mock up fore stay is 0.76mm, the difference in the thread weight is clearly visible....the stay pendants are 60wt vs 100wt for the crows feet and honestly at this scale I will be using both of these for most of the rigging. Michael D.
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A quick mock up of the spritsail backstay looks promising, the key here in my opinion is the 100wt silk thread, this stuff is so light and hangs naturally and is barely pulling on the fore stay. Michael D.
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I like your thought process on this Marc! The fact this sail survived virtually intact is astonishing and I think makes perfect sense to incorporate it set into my build. Nice to hear from you Kirill, your suggestions are valid, and I may end up having to fabricate them, although I hope not. I really hate to redo all my efforts I've invested into the as supplied bowsprit and spritsail mast thus far and as spindly as they look, they are quite up to the task...I think. I'm in the process of mocking up the aforementioned issues that the stays present and see how well the spritsail mast holds up....fingers crossed. Michael D.
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Thank you Marc, much appreciated! More eye straining work continues on the spritsail mast, I have the backstay pendants rigged using 100t thread and 1.5mm blocks, the top mast yard lift blocks using 1.5mm blocks, the tie using .20mm line with a 2mm single block stropped at one end and the halliard using 60wt thread passing through the top and a 2mm single block to be belayed later at the bowsprit. Lastly the fore top gallant bowline blocks attached to the shrouds. Up next will be the spritsail topsail yard and all it's necessary hardware, this will be interesting as my plan is to rig her with tightly furled sails. Michael D.
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Thanks Jeff! I have the spritsail mast mounted and completed the shrouds, I ended up having to make the deadeyes and they measure out to be under 2mm to give it a somewhat proper scale, the shrouds I used .20mm line and 100wt thread for the ratlines and lanyards, I think overall the scale looks pretty good for this surgical procedure at this scale, also I modified the top by cutting out the lower sections and adding some banding for a little more detail. I still have much more to do in this area but thanks for looking and Happy Thanksgiving. Michael D.
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Thank you Jeff, the Revell Spanish Galleon is actually my favorite of their large ships and yours is looking fantastic. A small update focusing on the bowsprit area, I tried to simulate the joint, metal banding, fashioned a knee and added the starboard bulkhead door, once I mocked up the gammoning I fabricated the cleats. I think at this point I'm committed to finishing up the spritsail top, maybe even rig the shrouds before I install the assembly. Michael D.
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Jaw dropping details as usual, very, very nice work Marc!👍 Michael D.
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The beakhead grating modifications are completed by painstakingly cutting away unwanted areas and creating the openings for the gammoning, also added some deck detail to the bulkhead filler piece. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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Hi Marc, I used a thinned wash of acrylic raw umber followed by a thin wash of black then sprayed some flat clear. I'd say that's a reasonable assumption regarding the doors and more then likely I'll fab some up. Michael D.
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That helps greatly Peter, I would've never thought of rigging the lanyard that way👍. Working on fitting the bulkhead to the deck and not quite liking it, I knew as supplied the deck has a raised step in it and I thought the bulkhead railing would cover or at least rest on top but that is not the case so I shaved it down and scribed planks in it.... while it's visible seam I was fine with it then realized when I fit the bulkhead, I'd have 2 seams which doesn't look very good so I cut a piece veneer to solve that issue and looks presentable. Up next will be the stairs and fabricating the grating in the beakhead, I'm still undecided whether or not to build the doors. Thanks again Peter for your help. Michael D.
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Thank you Waldemar and Peter👍. After looking at the latest belaying plans I needed to add an additional 20 belaying pins along the rails, unfortunately gentlemen I'll likely be knee deep into the rigging by the time Vasa 2 book is released, with that said I see Ver. 07 of the plans show no belaying points of the fore and main trusses so I'll have to make an educated guess on those but logic would say either abaft or aft at the base of the masts?. Now regarding the main stay collar deadeyes I suppose they're rigged like the shroud deadeyes except after passing through all 4 holes on the lower you still have 2 holes remaining in the upper..hmmm, would the line loop through those and tie off at the stay? Michael D.
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Just what I was looking for Peter!👍 I do have a question regarding the older set of plans Fred Hocker had posted many years ago, 7 sheets I think? and noted that are some errors that I think mainly are related to the line, exterior and deck but my focus is on the the sections and belaying plans as I want to attach all necessary ring bolts/blocks to the deck before assembly IE: truss tackle, halliards, bowlines locations etc, also I noticed the the tackle for the main stay collar appears to have 6 hole rectangular looking dead eyes and would like your thoughts on this particular set of plans? Thank you, Michael D.
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With the deck modifications nearing completion I needed to figure out how to deal with the main halliard fall as this would require to be rigged prior to fitting the deck, this is what I've come with in my mock up, obviously I still need to fab up a rams head for the final but I think it'll work just fine. Michael D.
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I'd have to agree with you on that Ian, they are really crisp, and the fitment is really good as well even in the dry fit stage. I cut open the deck just aft the fore bitts to create the access to the lower deck, and did some modifications to the fore bitts, although barely visible I did create 4 sheaves. The Knighthead will be tough though, trying to cut in 4 sheaves and make it look to scale could be too difficult at this scale, but we shall see! Michael D.
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Working on the deck mods at the moment, started by cutting out the molded in gratings and since I'm using a veneer deck I needed to build up the framework using misc styrene. The gratings are model shipways 33mm sq. 1mm unassembled and once the deck is glued down or before, I'll need to figure out where to cut the deck for the top rope falls and any other deck pieces besides the bitts and knightheads. Michael D.
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Looks fabulous Frank👍 You're nearing the end of another magnificent build!! Michael D.
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Those 2 pictures show a lot, thanks Peter. The 2nd picture shows a block attached to either the deck or inside of the bulwark?, the one with the dotted line. Guess I'll have to purchase the Vasa 2 book to find out 😄 The color scheme is starting to take shape, I fabricated a block with 3 sheaves that sits into the railing and started mocking up the gun port lid ropes, for this I'm using 100wt bobbin thread that looks to be the perfect scale. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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