72Nova
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Everything posted by 72Nova
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Hi Michael, I can only echo Kirill's comments, hopefully on your next build you'll consider rigging your own shrouds and ratlines?, your rigging especially that of the martnets and crowsfeet shows me you have the talent to accomplish that no problem. Keep up the good work👍 Michael D.- 279 replies
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Hi Kirill, Here's another photo and I do not see the sheet pendant outside of the shrouds, again this is not under sail but then again neither is the Vasa. Here's a link of the Sophia Amalia Marc. www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Orlogsmuseet_Copenhagen/Sophia_Amalia.htm Michael D.
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You are correct Kirill on the SB anchor, awaiting deployment of the fish Davit is my intention, maybe in practice it would already be in place?, but clearly the crew had too much rum and are moving slowly 😉 My initial plan was to run the spritsail pendants outside of the shrouds but the Bativia shows them inside so I chose that routing, now I'll need to taker a closer look to see if they pass outside after a few shrouds, if they do I can that adjustment since the whips have not been rigged yet. Thanks for your insight👍 Michael D
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Somewhat redundant but the anchors are completed, and the fore course tacks are tied off at their kevels with the tacks themselves still needing to be rigged.. gotcha thinking now😄 Michael D.
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Hi Kirill, I've included a few pics, one shows the cat-block positioned on top of the cathead, I know it's of Victory of 1737 but still a lot of similarities and the other is the port side of the Sophia Amalia showing the cat-block and spreaders for the sheet whip but like you said who knows if this is correct. The other option I had mentioned was to simply swing the cat-block assembly over the beakhead and out of the way rather than the anchor. Taking in account your recommendations, this is what I've come with, I did raise the bullseye a bit and looks to be a logical representation, I still need to tie off some loose ends though, thanks for the kind compliment, Shipman and as always Kirill your input along with others is invaluable and greatly appreciated! Michael D.
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Looks like I had it half right in post #315 regarding the routing of the sheet pendant, those pictures are great but do not show what is done with the cat-block?, I like the added detail of it and do not want to omit it, looking at the illustration in John Harlands book of the areas you highlighted, he shows the cat-block hooked to a strop on the shank which is an option I really like but mentions this as a Spanish method?. In my preliminary mockup I rigged as displayed on the 1/10 model and looks pretty good, I guess another option would be to bring it inboard of the beakhead? What's your thoughts on this Kirill? Regarding the spritsail pendant, it indeed is run through the bullseye but I have yet to rig the whip. Michael D.
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Small update, the starboard anchor is completed, as you can see just left it in the hanging position, the brass wire you see aids in creating some sag as the sheet pendant passes through the bullseye when gluing. Michael D.
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Thank you, Kirill hope all is well. Michael D.
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Thank you, Marc, what started out as an experiment ended up a keeper 😁. Thank you for the compliment Daniel, very much appreciated! I reattached the double fairlead under the knee I had removed earlier when reworking the trail board, I also rerouted the spritsail sheet pendant below the anchor and installed one gun port lid, up next, I will add the clews to the fore course sail so I can proceed with rigging the tacks then the bowlines and that should complete the rigging up front, also I will not be adding the anchor bouy's. Michael D.
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The build thus far is looking excellent!!, regarding your cat, I have a 100+lb dog that loves to do the same thing. Michael D.
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The port side anchor is in its final placement, I did redo the cathead block to a 3mm instead of the 3.95mm as it looked rather too large, the spritsail sheet pendant is .20mm line and is led trough a bullseye hanging from the foremost fore shroud and the anchor line is .88mm. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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With the spritsail sheets left do, I needed to mock them up along with the anchor so I could get a sense of how much slack I can introduce into the sheet and clear the anchor. The anchor mods once again start with the kit supplied piece, scribed a line down the middle to give the elusion the stock appears as two pieces, next I needed to give the stock a heavy distressed look before adding the bolts. For the ring I used 0.74mm wire and wrapped it with 100wt thread, the double cathead block measures under 4mm and 24ga wire for the band and hook. Michael D.
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Perfecto!, just exquisite craftsmanship Marc and love the way the carvings drape over the moulding, your castings must be silicone based ? Michael D.
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The exercise the last couple of days is finishing up the bowsprit area, while not quite there yet I did manage to complete about 90% of the needed work. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with result. Michael D.
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While working on the main top sail yard, I've completed the fore top gallant port bowline, to simulate blocks on the bridles I used .030" styrene rod and introduced just enough slack so I wouldn't distort the stay, I think it looks presentable enough. Michael D.
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The main top gallant yard for the most part is complete, as you can see, I have setup temporary topsail lifts to facilitate rigging the clews, the top gallant lifts are led to the top mast top and the clews are brought down to the main top, I usually leave the lines slightly weighted for a day or so to hold their shape before tying them off. Up next is the top sail yard. As always thanks for following along. Michael D.
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Making a little progress on the Mizen mast, the lower and top mast shrouds, lanyards and ratlines are completed. While I will not be displaying any canons on the ship, I will display three of them at the base to represent the ones found, so here's a sample one using what's supplied in the kit, I'm still pondering whether or not to add the eye bolts, if I do, I'll use 32ga wire for scale purposes. Thanks for looking. Michael D.
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I really admire your skill and perseverance on this epic build Ian, looking forward to the test launch👍 Michael D.
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Thank you Ian, how's the Preussen build going? Michael D.
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The main top gallant halliard is now completed with the excess crowfeet lines trimmed and the fall led to the inside sheave of the main bitts. The supplied masts and spars are holding their own thus far, stretching the lines for a few days and preparing the halliards and crowfeet off the model prior to rigging helps a lot to prevent distortion of the masts and spars. Michael D.
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I was getting nauseous just watching the Galleon video on the other link, thanks Jeff 😁 Michael D.
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The table and chairs look fantastic Jeff. The wife and I took the 4 hour tour on the San Salvador earlier this year and as excited as I was, I did have some anxiety about going out in the open water, but lucky for me they stopped doing that due to too many people getting really sick, that would be me for sure. It was pretty tight quarters with about 40 or so people on board and couldn't imagine what it would be like in 1542 with probably double the crew and a 100 livestock. Michael D.
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Made a little progress starting with securing all the lower dead eye lanyards, the main futtock-shrouds, the main topmast halliard, I had to fabricate a two sheave rams head for this and the main top gallant halliard that I'm actually quite pleased with how it turned out even though they are not secured yet. As Always thanks for looking. Michael D.
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Made some more progress on the Mizen mast, the Crojack yard is installed, I used a 2mm block for the sling and 1.5mm blocks for the brace pendants and lifts/sheets, rigging the parrel strop was a little challenging with the Lateen yard in the way and looking back it would've been a lot easier to mount the Crojack yard first , also completed the lower Mizen stay and lanyard. Up next I need to rig the lower Mizen shroud lanyards to tighten up the Mizen stay a bit more before I move on to the main top gallant halliard and crowsfeet. Michael D.
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I had been going back and forth between how I wanted to display the martnets, taught or slacked off a bit, I chose the latter as I just liked the look better and I think they turned okay, I used 100wt thread led thru a 1.5mm double block at the mast head, once I finish the portside marnet I'll tune up the sail by softening the creases created from handling. Michael D
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