JohnE

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Janet is in my prayers; you are too. There are candles burning to St. Theophilus for both of you.
 
Wood looks good! Discovered a fiddly-bit from working with the carving artist for Cornelie. Make the wood just a skoosh thicker and then do the carving indents. When you are done with the carvings, shave the body to its perfect lines. The result is a skoosh more scale looking carving with respect to depth. Yeah, I know, magnifying glasses and the dental tip to sharpen up the edges, but what the hey.
 
Just a thought. Ciao. John

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

Besides tilting the hawse holes down and lining them, the French sometimes put rollers under the lip of the holes. Most often in larger ships, but frigates got them as well. Bolsters (bull noses) were common if they didn't use rollers.
 

 
Ciao. John

This part that I'm working on now is probably one of the most relaxing parts I've done.  I think I've chilled out on things.  
 
The drops... they not only have their shape when viewed from the side, but also have to sit flush to the hull and also have to be rounded to match the gallery.  Then there's the outside shape from top to bottom which I can only describe as a rounded bevel.  Thick at the top, thin at the bottom.
 
Here's some pics of the work in progress.  I'm making both at the same time to shoot for uniformity  I started with blanks cut to the shape when viewed from the side. I then set up the scroll saw with sanding blades instead of cutting blades and did the fit to the hull.   I'm currently doing the shape from side to side to match the gallery.
 
Here's pictures of the process (not complete as I forgot to fire up the camera in between tossing some in the scrap box and starting over.  
 
First.. rear view to show the fit to the hull.

 
Side view to show the shape and fit to the gallery.

 
Lastly, the rounding to match the gallery.   Being cheap frugal, I have some 120 grit Olsen Sanding Blades that I've turned around and stuck a strip of 100 grit stickyback to.  Works like a charm.

 
More when I get the final shape done and after finessing the final fit.

My 2 centimes. The vessel should have a story; some fame or provenance that would make her interesting and exciting for a general model maker. There’s lots of very good offerings in previous posts. But I feel that Euro ships are under, or, un-represented in the world of kits. Western folks have little opportunity to explore the history and detail of a Euro vessel, as it differs from the typical British or American model.
 
So, I would like to see something Spanish, but not the usual huge and ornate 1st rate. Perhaps a frigate from the treasure fleet of Cabo de Santa Maria (Oct. 1804)
Fama, or perhaps Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes
 
Spain: 1790-1805
 
PoF or PoB (could be a plan option). Decent wood (but one is able to substitute). Scale is indeterminate due to Euro metrics, but something consistent with 1:48. Consistent scaling is all important, such that Chuck doesn’t have go broke with stocking charges for a gazillion different scales. Consistent scaling is also extremely important for modelers looking to do matched-pair builds (Fama/Lively, Chesapeake/Shannon, Mercedes/Amphion, etc..).
 
At 1:48, I would expect to pay $600-$800 (680-900 Eu) for a good quality PoF kit with suitable wood and full-boggie plans (suitable for kit-basher builders). PoB should be less by roughly $115 (100 Eu). The kit could be scaled down to 1:72 and done PoB for $350-$450 (300-400 Eu).
 
At 1:48 PoF, it’s kinda advanced going to full-boggie advanced if one delves deeply into the treasures of the plans. With PoB, it’s intermediate (+) going towards advanced.
Best case, 9-mos to 1-year. Full-boggie is however long you can convince the Admiral you admire the flow of those lines as much as, if not more, than your vessel.

My 2 centimes. The vessel should have a story; some fame or provenance that would make her interesting and exciting for a general model maker. There’s lots of very good offerings in previous posts. But I feel that Euro ships are under, or, un-represented in the world of kits. Western folks have little opportunity to explore the history and detail of a Euro vessel, as it differs from the typical British or American model.
 
So, I would like to see something Spanish, but not the usual huge and ornate 1st rate. Perhaps a frigate from the treasure fleet of Cabo de Santa Maria (Oct. 1804)
Fama, or perhaps Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes
 
Spain: 1790-1805
 
PoF or PoB (could be a plan option). Decent wood (but one is able to substitute). Scale is indeterminate due to Euro metrics, but something consistent with 1:48. Consistent scaling is all important, such that Chuck doesn’t have go broke with stocking charges for a gazillion different scales. Consistent scaling is also extremely important for modelers looking to do matched-pair builds (Fama/Lively, Chesapeake/Shannon, Mercedes/Amphion, etc..).
 
At 1:48, I would expect to pay $600-$800 (680-900 Eu) for a good quality PoF kit with suitable wood and full-boggie plans (suitable for kit-basher builders). PoB should be less by roughly $115 (100 Eu). The kit could be scaled down to 1:72 and done PoB for $350-$450 (300-400 Eu).
 
At 1:48 PoF, it’s kinda advanced going to full-boggie advanced if one delves deeply into the treasures of the plans. With PoB, it’s intermediate (+) going towards advanced.
Best case, 9-mos to 1-year. Full-boggie is however long you can convince the Admiral you admire the flow of those lines as much as, if not more, than your vessel.

My 2 centimes. The vessel should have a story; some fame or provenance that would make her interesting and exciting for a general model maker. There’s lots of very good offerings in previous posts. But I feel that Euro ships are under, or, un-represented in the world of kits. Western folks have little opportunity to explore the history and detail of a Euro vessel, as it differs from the typical British or American model.
 
So, I would like to see something Spanish, but not the usual huge and ornate 1st rate. Perhaps a frigate from the treasure fleet of Cabo de Santa Maria (Oct. 1804)
Fama, or perhaps Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes
 
Spain: 1790-1805
 
PoF or PoB (could be a plan option). Decent wood (but one is able to substitute). Scale is indeterminate due to Euro metrics, but something consistent with 1:48. Consistent scaling is all important, such that Chuck doesn’t have go broke with stocking charges for a gazillion different scales. Consistent scaling is also extremely important for modelers looking to do matched-pair builds (Fama/Lively, Chesapeake/Shannon, Mercedes/Amphion, etc..).
 
At 1:48, I would expect to pay $600-$800 (680-900 Eu) for a good quality PoF kit with suitable wood and full-boggie plans (suitable for kit-basher builders). PoB should be less by roughly $115 (100 Eu). The kit could be scaled down to 1:72 and done PoB for $350-$450 (300-400 Eu).
 
At 1:48 PoF, it’s kinda advanced going to full-boggie advanced if one delves deeply into the treasures of the plans. With PoB, it’s intermediate (+) going towards advanced.
Best case, 9-mos to 1-year. Full-boggie is however long you can convince the Admiral you admire the flow of those lines as much as, if not more, than your vessel.

My 2 centimes. The vessel should have a story; some fame or provenance that would make her interesting and exciting for a general model maker. There’s lots of very good offerings in previous posts. But I feel that Euro ships are under, or, un-represented in the world of kits. Western folks have little opportunity to explore the history and detail of a Euro vessel, as it differs from the typical British or American model.
 
So, I would like to see something Spanish, but not the usual huge and ornate 1st rate. Perhaps a frigate from the treasure fleet of Cabo de Santa Maria (Oct. 1804)
Fama, or perhaps Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes
 
Spain: 1790-1805
 
PoF or PoB (could be a plan option). Decent wood (but one is able to substitute). Scale is indeterminate due to Euro metrics, but something consistent with 1:48. Consistent scaling is all important, such that Chuck doesn’t have go broke with stocking charges for a gazillion different scales. Consistent scaling is also extremely important for modelers looking to do matched-pair builds (Fama/Lively, Chesapeake/Shannon, Mercedes/Amphion, etc..).
 
At 1:48, I would expect to pay $600-$800 (680-900 Eu) for a good quality PoF kit with suitable wood and full-boggie plans (suitable for kit-basher builders). PoB should be less by roughly $115 (100 Eu). The kit could be scaled down to 1:72 and done PoB for $350-$450 (300-400 Eu).
 
At 1:48 PoF, it’s kinda advanced going to full-boggie advanced if one delves deeply into the treasures of the plans. With PoB, it’s intermediate (+) going towards advanced.
Best case, 9-mos to 1-year. Full-boggie is however long you can convince the Admiral you admire the flow of those lines as much as, if not more, than your vessel.

Hi ya Mark,
 
Found a pic I took of l'Hermione's rudder coat and the security chain details. I think your present coat looks darn good, but if you want to do a re-do, a picture might be worth something to you. I know l'Hermione was 25 years after Licorne, but things didn't change all that quickly, back then.
 

 
It's greased, sewn, leather. The maitre d'equipage (sailing master/bosun) says it's quite rugged, long-wearing, and flexible, so long as it's conditioned/greased regularly. Today, they use a Lexol type conditioner, but back in the day they would use the grease skimmed of the top of the soup vats (like British Navy slush) and hang poor Pierre out the stern port with a bucket of the stuff and a hand mop.
 
John

Certainly agree Druxey. Was just pinging on terminology back then.
 
John

the white color you call is in reality the "espalme"
 
the composition is:
8 brai - 3 soufre - 1 suif
 
 
Obliged of warmed to melt the pitch and the tallow, and also to obtain a smooth mixture with the sulfur which does not incorporate so easily.
 
picture of brai:

 
 
picture of the mixture:
 
 

I knew a Caroline once and ... um ... sorry.
 
From 1650 to 1730, various desultory experiments were made with sheathing techniques and materials, including planking arrayed with copper studs. After the ship launched, it didn’t take long for the copper to turn green. The French called the overall effect ‘petit pois’. I can see the English calling it pease. Have no clue whether this is the ‘pease’ bottom Druxey speaks of. It’s just that the name caught my attention and got me going.
 
Masseille, H. Notes sur la sallsure et les procédés d'entretien des carènes Immergées. Peintures Pigments Vernis, Vincennes, 1933.
 
John

I knew a Caroline once and ... um ... sorry.
 
From 1650 to 1730, various desultory experiments were made with sheathing techniques and materials, including planking arrayed with copper studs. After the ship launched, it didn’t take long for the copper to turn green. The French called the overall effect ‘petit pois’. I can see the English calling it pease. Have no clue whether this is the ‘pease’ bottom Druxey speaks of. It’s just that the name caught my attention and got me going.
 
Masseille, H. Notes sur la sallsure et les procédés d'entretien des carènes Immergées. Peintures Pigments Vernis, Vincennes, 1933.
 
John