palmerit

Thanks for all these helpful comments. Lots to think about. I was thinking it was easier to make them on a lathe, which made the decision easy. I'll need to poke around to check out the different approaches to decide what works for me. I guess now the question is if someone doesn't go a lathe route, what combination of other tools would be useful? A vise? What kinds of chisels? A Veritas mini-plane. Other tools?

So would these be the two Sherlines you're talking about: https://www.sherline.com/product/40004100-lathe-packages-a/#description (8") https://www.sherline.com/product/4400a4410a-package/#description (17") So the "pass through" capability is pretty standard for all lathes? How large (wide) of a piece could something like one of these handle? As I said, my son did some woodturning (small bowls and vases) and I don't know if these can handle something that wide (vs. masts, spars, pens, and other narrow pieces). Or if that requires a large lathe. Just thinking if this could be used for the kinds of things my son enjoyed doing it would have wider use - and justify paying more.

So what would be an entry-level Sherline model that would do everything a DB 250 would do, just so I can compare? It sounds like a Sherline is more upgradeable than a Proxxon? Guessing the same might be true for Taig? How do I know what basic add-ons are needed to get started? I saw that some of the models had packages, but I don't even know what combo would be necessary to get started. Sorry for all the questions. (I don't even know what a mill is used for, except that I had some guys I went to high school with whose dads were machinists, and I assume they used mills.)

Right now I'm really just thinking wood. I understand something like the Proxxon DB 250 is wood only. Who know what I might want to do in the future. If something isn't much more expensive (and better quality) I'd get that. Something up to $500-600 US would be okay, thought I'd prefer to pay less. No way I'm spending upwards of $1000 or more, which is that I've seen some of them go for. I'd certain love some recommendations on particular models. I'm really at a loss as to what specific models to look at and what a basic "start set" might look like. For now for just doing masts and spars. If it lets me do more later that'd be cool. My son took a wood turning class in high school (their principal was a wood turner and the class had four students because he donated his old one) and it looked like a lot of fun. I don't even know if a lathe for wood turning more generally would be general purpose for also doing the kinds of things you might do for model ships, turning masts and spars. As I said, I'm clueless right now. I'm certainly open to getting something that might allow me to explore other directions. I'm not in a rush to buy something today certainly. I'm just trying to figure out the landscape of possibilities and I'm overwhelmed by the options, especially having no clue what really to look for and how to tell whether a particular lathe might do what I want immediately (for model ships) and what it might allow for later. I saw some combo packs for some of the lathes online and I have no idea what combo of add-ons is even needed.

Which model Taig did you buy (and why that one over other models)? Did you have to buy additional Taig accessories? Was there a package? Can I also ask what other tools and add-ons you bought?

I'm approaching the mast and spar stage and I am thinking about buying a mini-lathe. I've seen some jerry-rigged options using a drill, a workbench, a vise, and homemade jigs, but while I own a couple of drills, I'd need to buy a workbench and a vise and make jigs, so buying a mini-lathe seems the best option. I also know these can be shaped entirely by hand tools. I've been to Colonial Williamsburg and saw how a harpsichord can also be built using nothing but hand tools. But that's not for me. I don't have a lot of time to spend on this new hobby and retirement is at least a decade away. Which Model? The Proxxon DB 250 seems to be the popular inexpensive option. From what I've read, it has a "pass through" capability to be able to handle long dowels, which many other cheap (or cheaper) options do not. Is that right? Taig is also recommended (assuming it is available in the US). Does that also have "pass through"? There seem to be some versions priced around the same as the Proxxon, with others priced closer to the Sherline. Is there a similarly-priced Taig that does all the same as the Proxxon that I should look at. I'm a bit overwhelmed at the number of Taig models. Would someone recommend a Taig over a Proxxon? Sherline is also recommended, but is way more than I would want to spend. Right now, I can't imagine doing metal work, and I'll be focusing just on shaping masts and spars. If I get further into this hobby, I'll consider something fancier. Are there other (relatively inexpensive) mini-lathe models someone recommends? Which Add-ons and Tools? What "add ons" would I need to buy (or would be recommended)? e.g., Are there accessories to add to the Proxxon (made by Proxxon) that are necessary or very useful that don't come with the base kit, or are there combo kits that someone recommends? Are there specific tools someone recommends? Is it better to use files or chisels to shape masts and spars? I have some inexpensive files. Perhaps for a lathe I should buy some better ones? And if chisels, any recommendations? Apologies for creating yet another topic on lathes and the basic questions. I used a lathe once 45 years ago in wood shop class in junior high, but haven't since. I have read a bunch of useful posts here on lathes. I've seen specific mention of the DB 250 as a specific Proxxon model. While I've seen some posts about the Taig (and other models) I haven't been able to figure out which specific model folks recommend. And I've seen folks note that they needed to buy some "add ons" and tools but it's been harder to figure out what those add ons and tools were.

I assume belaying pins are glued in place at this point Right?

I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is a Vallejo (or other) paint that would be a close match to the various woods in a Vanguard model (I can mix paints to match but I thought maybe someone solved this problem and found a good match). I have a few tiny oops's I'd like to fix (on the deck, on the bulwarks). Also, in one of the photos I just posted, you can see where there is some CA glue that got on the wood bulwarks (I'm going to try to avoid CA glue as much as possible going forward) - there are a couple other places like this. Any suggestions on the best way to remove? (I can paint over too, if I find a good match, but I don't know if that will look worse.)

After some work it looks better than it did.

To close this thread - I ended up purchasing the Vanguard Duchess of Kingston. Waiting for it to arrive from Ages of Sail (who sells Vanguard Models in the US).

One problem was that the side rails near the stern were not flush with the stern. The rail is curved, so I actually used the “negative” from where I originally cut out the pieces, cutting out a section, gluing it to the piece on the model, and sanding down, trying to replicate the shape. I also had to extend the main wales a bit with some of the same “scrap” wood, some wood filler, and some sanding and filing. The port and starboard sides are no longer exactly identical and some of the symmetry is lost, but I think it’s looking a lot better (and should look even better after a bit more filler and sanding and some painting).

Because I didn’t line up other parts quite right, things didn’t line up at the stern. You can see what I mean in the photos. I spent some time adding some wood, doing lots of sanding, and adding some filler, and doing more sanding.

Continuing to make progress. Realizing how small (correctable) mistakes earlier bite you later. I didn’t quite have the bulwarks bended right (and with a bit more fiddling and patience I’m sure I could have) which meant that the gunwales don’t fit quite right.

I bit the bullet and ordered a second Vanguard model from Age of Sails. Duchess of Kingston should arrive in a couple of weeks. Of the Vanguard models, I was considering one of their fishing boats, like the Erycina, which was very different from the Sherbourne. The Trial Cutter and the Alert looked too similar to the Sherbourne. I also considered the Speedy or the Flirt. I really liked the Duchess, but thought it was completely out of my league, but a couple people suggested it could be okay to do. And being a decade from retirement and with our boys adults now, the price did not scare me off like it would have just a few years ago. I was also seriously considering the Model Shipways Bluenose. The finished models I've seen look very nice and it's completely different from the Sherbourne. But after checking out some videos, it seemed like it was a bit fiddly in places and maybe would have been a frustrating second model. Maybe in the future. Why a second model when I'm just a fraction of the way through the Sherbourne? I was finding that I had a bunch of down time waiting for paint or glue to dry so I thought I'd get another wooden model to work on in parallel. This will definitely be a step up in difficulty, but I'm guessing the excellent instructions, great materials, and high-quality engineering from a Vanguard model will make it easier than it would be with another manufacturer. I'm planning to make sure I stay ahead on the Sherbourne so I can use what I learn from that when doing the Duchess. In addition, thankfully, there are a lot of more skilled modelers who came before me who I can learn from. Some complete (or near complete) logs I will be referencing closely: And there is an in-progress YouTube video series that seems helpful:

After looking at builds some more I guess I'm waiting for someone to convince me that Duchess of Kingston is a crazy second built to try (well, really a parallel with my ongoing Sherbourne).

I was also looking at the Model Shipways' Bluenose - it's very different from the Sherbourne or any of the other Vanguard Models. But following some build logs and watching some YouTube videos it looks like it's single plank (unless I'm missing something) and the instructions can be confusing and some of the parts are wrong and need to be handcrafted.

So Duchess of Kingston wouldn't be completely out of my league then (just bigger and more complex)? I've read a number of build logs on it (and watched some YouTube videos on a build from the guy from the Midwest Model Shop). It's a beautiful ship and a lot different from the Sherbourne.

I'm currently building the Vanguard Sherbourne and it's been a great experience. Since I find that there are often times when I'm waiting for glue or paint to dry (like I am now), I'm thinking that I might start another model in parallel. Especially during football season, I'm finding it enjoyable to work on models while watching the games on Sundays. I love my Vanguard Model. And I'm certainly going to buy another one (and another after that) when my Sherbourne is done. The Harpy looks cool. That might be a stretch, so maybe that can be a third or fourth model, but I really like what I've seen on the prototype build. I'm certainly considering another Vanguard Model for my second (parallel) build. Some of the non-armed working boats with sails from Vanguard seem quite different from the Sherbourne, at least in looks. If anyone has recommendations, please share. I'm also considering a different model manufacturer for my second (parallel) model that might require me to exercise some other model muscles and build on what I've been learning with the Sherbourne. I've seen Occre, Caldercraft, Model Shipways, the Amati models that Chris Watton designed as ones that recommended. Quality (over cost) - in material, in instructions - is way more important to me (which is why I picked a Vanguard model as my first one). I don't want to deal with wood that splits or is the wrong dimensions. Certainly having descent instructions is a must for a second build I think, even if supplementing with checking out the logs of others. Recommendations on a good "second ship" that would be a small step past the Sherbourne, but not overwhelming for someone who is still a beginner? I've seen the index to builds (and I'll pick one where I can find lots of help), but I'd like pointers to a few I should check out for my second model. I did see these recommended on a pinned post from six years ago. So I'll check these out. But wanted to see what else that's newer might be recommended. For example, they don't list Occre because I think that's a new company. No experience Any Artesania Latina Weekend Kit (Viking longboat etc) Artesania Latina's Mare Nostrum, Bremen, Jolie Brise Models with preformed hulls made from compressed fibre (again, AL produce a variety of these) Midwest Products Level 1 or 2 (e.g. skiff, Chesapeake Bay flattie) (these kits are now made and sold through Model Expo) Beginner kits from BlueJacket Shipcrafters (e.g. Optimist dinghy, Yankee Hero) Model Shipways' Willie Bennett, Armed Longboat, Shipwright Series (dory, pram, lobster smack) Vanguard Models working boats (e.g., Saucy Jack, Erycina) Some experience, or experience of other model disciplines Mantua's Model kits of President, Golden Star Artesania Latina's San Francisco(II), Santa Maria, Independence, Harvey, HMS Supply, Mayflower, Scottish Maid, Virginia, Swift Amati's Santa Maria, Elizabethan Galleon, Lady Nelson, Chinese Junk Caldercraft's HM Schooner Ballahoo, HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Brig Supply Model Shipways' Bluenose Corel's Shenadoah, Chesapeake Sloop, Scotland Baltic Ketch, Leida Mamoli's Constitution Cross Section Vanguard Models' Sherbourne Trial, Alert I haven't seen a more recent cataloging of recommended beginner/novice models like this, but maybe I've used the wrong search terms. Any recommendations for a good second model, and for another model manufacturer to take a look at or to stay away from? Or what I should look for (or look out for) when picking a second model. After seeing how challenging even a novice model is (with great materials and fantastic instructions) I certainly don't want to get over my head. But I'd like to take a step and expand my skills too.

Looking like I need to do another coat of white on the hull because it got scuffed in several places just from handling. I’m guessing l should have (and now will, after repainting) sprayed on a couple coats of matte varnish. My understanding is that that should protect the paint a bit?

Fingers crossed I did a descent enough job masking off the rest of the ship. I’m glad I splurged on an airbrush. I don’t know if the fine etch marking on the wood would show as cleanly if I had used a brush.

Making more progress. Dealing with small pieces of PE is definitely a learning experience. Thankfully I didn’t lose any. I had to leave off the XIII on the depth markings (not enough width). I’m glad for the good advice not to glue the bulkhead to the bulkhead ears that are snipped off.

Being a novice model, the Sherbourne is pretty basic (but still complicated for me) when it comes to rigging. One thing I'd like to maybe add is the thick rope that goes from the hull around the small cannons (that would keep the cannon from flying across the hull when fired) - sorry, I have no idea what the actual name of that rope is. Two questions: - Where would I buy the proper scale rope for this (ideally from a supplier in the US)? - I'm guessing I should just check out other Vanguard models that have this kind of simple cannon rigging to see what to do? I've attached an image that's a screen shot from the Sherbourne instructions (showing the lack or rope around the cannons). I'm not yet anywhere near that point in the build. But if I need to order some rope, I'd want to do it well before I get to that step.

Been a while since I last posted. I’ve been busy with work. And I’ve been learning how to use my new airbrush and properly thin airbrush paint. And not being a woodworker, learning how to sand and when and how to interleave painting and sanding. I understand even more clearly how even when painting a hull how important it is to have a good first and second planking. I didn’t do a great job on either so I had to do a lot of repetitions of wood filler followed by sanding. Next time I’m definitely going to follow closely the advice to treat each plank as its own project. I also now appreciate what I learned from videos on plastic modeling I’ve followed recently (I’m doing a plastic Tamiya tank model between steps on my wood model): That a primer (or first) coat of paint can more clearly reveal blemishes that need to be filled and/or sanded. I also got a bit ahead of myself and added the photoetch straps on the hull by the rudder too soon. After I added them, in better light I realized I had more filling and sanding to do. Well, in the process of sanding, I lost four of the small straps after hitting them and they flew across the room. I had to cut some small pieces out from the scrap photoetch sheet to size and drill some holes. That was a learning experience - both to take a pause and to fix mistakes. The end result isn’t perfect by far but much better than where I started.

Sorry for jumping on an old thread. 1. Is Minwax Wipe-On Poly (Warm Satin) a good choice? 2. Would I use a rap, a brush, or a (small) foam brush? Or some combination, like foam brush on, then wipe with a rag?

I’m planning to paint the inside “walls” (can’t remember what they’re called) red. The upper part of the outside of hull is bare wood. Should I use a wood stain? If so, what kind? Brand and color?