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palmerit

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Everything posted by palmerit

  1. palmerit
    Completed the mast. Thankfully had NFL Redzone to watch while sanding. Glad I had my air mask for this sanding using my drill. Also finished the stand.
  2. palmerit
    I used the drill method to shape the mast. I wrapped the end in several loops of paper to avoid getting chuck marks on the end of the mast. And I used a clamp to keep the drill running.
  3. palmerit
    The instructions acknowledge how much the dowel needs to be reduced in size. And notes how long it took the kit designer to do it. The question is still why? A 3/16” dowel could have been supplied instead. Maybe it was the economics and 1/4” dowels are way less expensive. Or maybe Model Shipways bought a literal ton of 1/4” dowels and supplies with kits with them whenever possible? Or is there another reason to supply a dowel so much larger than it needs to be?
  4. palmerit
    The dowel supplied with the kit is a good bit wider than what’s needed in the plans. Not sure why. The instructions even note that the dowel is 1/4” and the plans indicate it should be more like 5/32 at its widest. That’s a lot of sanding, scraping, or planing.
  5. palmerit
    Enlarging to 103% seemed to get the plans closer to scale.
  6. palmerit
    I’m guessing the plans are out of scale (they’re on a page in the instructions, not on a separate sheet). The mast is cut from a dowel to 10”, with marks at 1” from the lower end and 3 1/8” from the upper end for the start of the tapers. The mast in the plans in the instructions is less than 10”. I’m guessing I’ll need to zoom in my printer. I saw in my Dory build from other logs that the plans weren’t to an accurate scale. Maybe the same is true for the Pram instructions? I missed a note to that in other logs, but I just made a quick pass. Frustrating if so.
  7. palmerit
    At the step to make the display stand (which is before adding the rudder onto the boat). I wasn’t quite sure how best to notch the rods to accept the cross pieces. I ended up sawing down just a tiny bit to the width of the notch on both sides (measuring the the top the height of the notch on the cross piece rather than follow the instruction because the instructions weren’t entirely clear after a couple readings. Then I filed a bit on both sides, checking if the cross piece fit, filing some more, checking again, until it fit snug. Then glued.
  8. palmerit
    It’s a bit unclear what PE pieces to use to make the pintles. I don’t know if I used the wrong piece for one of the gudgeons or if the kit doesn’t supply all the right pieces (I saw others suggest that there weren’t enough pieces or the right pieces). I’ll try to make it work.
  9. palmerit
    Ah. I must have gotten one of their last ones.
  10. palmerit
    To make the rudder gudgeons I had to wait until I had my razor saw and miter box. I had both, but the razor saw I had wouldn’t fit so I had to order a new one. You need to cut really small pieces of copper tube and a miter box is really the only way to go I think.
  11. palmerit
    I just bought a bought a Byrnes. It arrived a few days ago. Maybe I got one of the last ones they had?
  12. palmerit
    You can see the Model Shipways instructions online on the Model Expo web site if you want to check them out. They’re fairly detailed. I haven’t seen Bluejacket instructions, but I read that their models are a bit more complicated and detailed and kind of expect that you’ve done a model before.
  13. palmerit
    For the future, I think isopropyl alcohol will loosen up PVA glue (you might still need to apply a sharp scalpel, but it will be loosened a bit). (Nail polish remover will do something similar with CA glue - superglue).
  14. palmerit
    One thing to note if you’re looking at the Vanguard models is that they’re kind of in three pairs (three different styles, with a smaller and larger variant) - that was told to me by someone who built all six. Erycina (larger) Nisha (smaller) Ranger (larger) Saucy Jack (smaller) Zulu (larger) Fifie (smaller)
  15. palmerit
    The Model Shipways Shipwright series (Dory, Pram, Smack) have complete instructions (unlike some model manufacturers where the instructions seem to be pretty sparse). I've now had experience with all three (completed the Dory, halfway through the Pram, started the Smack) - I started the last one because I was waiting for some tools I ordered that I wanted to complete the Pram and the Sherbourne. They've all been rewarding to do, and I learned a lot, and they're definitely a progression. Basswood is easy to work with because it's soft (easy to bend with water, easy to shape), but because it's soft it also poses some challenges (easy to break a piece, dent easy, they "fuzz" so it's harder to get a clean edge). I definitely needed with all of them to check out build logs here, but that's what's nice about this site. I've read that Bluejacket also makes quality models, but I don't know anything about them or the quality of the instructions. Both Model Shipways and Vanguard have their written instructions online (models also come with plans, which they usually don't post online), I think Midwest instructions are also online, I can't remember if that's the case for Bluejacket.
  16. palmerit
    Note that if you paint the PE, research the right way to paint it. I painted the PE for my Sherbourne and used Vallejo acrylic primer (which works great on wood and plastic) and discovered that the primer (and paint on top of it) would peel off. I only then watched some YouTube videos and saw that you either need to abrade the PE (which is hard to really do on tiny PE parts) or use a non-acrylic primer like Tamiya Surface Primer. This video does a comparison of PE painting methods:
  17. palmerit
    Not sure if you're specifically looking for a Dory because it's a Dory or because it's simple and good for a beginner. I did the Dory from Model Shipways as my 1 1/2 model ("1 1/2" because I started it while still also doing my first model, the Vanguard Models Sherbourne, as something to work on while waiting for paint or glue to dry on the Sherborne). It was a nice learning experience and produced a nice model, but the wood quality is not great and the instructions have some gaps and while easy to construct, it is easy to make a mistake and not get parts lined up quite right, especially without having much experience - thankfully, I could get on here for help. I have not built another Dory (and have not built a model from Midwest or Bluejacket). Vanguard Models make a bunch of entry-level models (Novice in their skill level) that have very high-quality wood and materials, clear and accurate instructions, are easy to construct, and are sold at a premium price but you get what you pay for. I'm building the Sherbourne. I found it easier in many ways than the Model Shipways Dory (or the Norwegian Pram, or the Lobster Smack). Vanguard also has a bunch of fishing boats that I've read are also great builds for beginners. I have the Vanguard Ranger in the queue for when I'm done with the Sherbourne.
  18. palmerit
    I added the seats. The floor was tilted a bit because one of the bulkhead frames was tilted. I had to sand down the seat support piece on the one side so the seat pieces would lay flush. There ended up being a tiny gap between the seat pieces so I ended up putting some filler that I’ll sand in a bit.
  19. palmerit
    Check out the Vanguard Models novice kits. I’m working on the Sherbourne and have the Ranger in the queue. Greats materials and great instructions. I also have the Shipwright series (Dory, Pram, Smack). They’re also nice. But I’d recommend a Vanguard model given a choice.
  20. palmerit
    Added the bulkhead frames and built the transom.
  21. palmerit
    Thankfully I saw this in the @Bryan Woods build. I was very confused.
  22. palmerit
    Adding reinforcing pieces. Never enough variety or number of clamps and clips.
  23. palmerit
    After clipping the spine overnight, it had a pronounced bend. I wetted down both sides (just bushed with water) and then placed a heavy book (wrapped in plastic wrap) on it. Tonight, when I removed the book, it was fairly flat and straight.
  24. palmerit
    The hole was actually just the right size. It's that if you don't treat the ends of the braided twisted rope (like I did) and just try to push it through and grab the end from the other side with tweezers (like I did) it's easy to get a "traffic jam" of rope on the other side (like I found). Pushing through with something like the sharp end of a needle file works, but was tough on the rope (and tough on my fingers when the needle file slipped past the rope pushing on a small grate). Seems either clear nail polish or CA on the ends (them trimming them) might be a good solution to making a narrow point to slide through a tight opening.
  25. palmerit
    The central spine of the boat is composed of several pieces that need to be glued and clamped together. There is an option to have the centerboard moveable (up and down) but I chose to keep it stationary (glued in place).

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