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palmerit

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Everything posted by palmerit

  1. Yeah, this model really needs to be fared pretty aggressively at the bow and stern (at least compared to what I had to do on the Sherbourne). Even after an aggressive faring, I realized later that I probably could have (should have) done a bit more, especially near the counter at the stern. Having the thin basswood for the planking has the advantage that they're easy to bend and shape. But it also has the disadvantage that, because they're thin, they cannot take much sanding. If the faring is not done right and there are bulges or pockets you cannot fix that by sanding the planks - as I learned when I sanded through and had to replank in places. (I can hold my hull up to the light and see some places where the planking is nearly paper thin.)
  2. Starting to raise the sail. I think I understand what to do. I originally thread the halyard through both holes at the top of the mast then realized it went only through one. It seems odd to me that the halyard and downhaul lines are both secured on the same cleat. I would have thought there’d be separate cleats for separate lines.
  3. Lashed and laced the top of the sail (still need to trim the ends of the lines after the Glenn put on them dries).
  4. Take two making a sail for my Pram after getting a new sail from Model Expo. It took a couple email pokes, but it was finally shipped. Take one I made a couple mistakes. First, I used yellow PVA glue (did the same on my Smack) which naturally gave the sail a yellow tone. This time I used a white bookbinders glue. Second, I had taped my sail to my green cutting mat. It was clean but because it had been cut up a bit, some of the green stained sail. This go around, I put Saran Wrap down first. Tomorrow I’ll add the corner stays, and when they’re dried I’ll drill the holes for the line, and then try to figure out how to attach it. The instructions from the Pram are a bit more extensive than they were for the Smack but still not very clear.
  5. I was able to attach the main sail to the main mast. But I was really struggling to figure out how to attach the sail to the gaff and the boom. The main instructions are pretty spartan. The appendix explanations are incomplete. They kind of describe the lashings. But don’t describe the lacing. Then I looked at the instructions for my Pram. I hadn’t finished that yet because I was waiting for a new piece of sail material to arrive from Model Expo. It just arrived today. I looked back at the instructions for the Pram and the description of how to add the sail were much more complete. Now that I have a new sail, I’ll finish the Pram, then turn to the Smack.
  6. Maybe not surprising that dry dock models and parts (on the MSW banned list) sells this kit for *more* than what it would cost to buy directly from Pavel Nikitin and pay the shipping fee from Ukraine.
  7. Catching up to on this one while watching the pregame. Bag 20. The rudder works.
  8. The Quad Hands really make it easier (far easier) to rig the blocks. I was trying to tie in the block without using them and failing completely until I pulled out the Quad Hands. I’m guessing there’s a way to do this without them but I couldn’t figure it out.
  9. The plans and instructions have a triple 5mm block that goes on the bowsprit. I can’t seem to find it. I think there’s only one needed.
  10. Another thing I’m unsure about is what to do with the PE-2 eyebolts (they’re larger than the PE-1 eyebolts that I used in lots of places in the kit). I’ve yet to use a PE-2. I must have missed where. I don’t think I have enough of the PE-1 to add eyebolts to the main mast. I lost a couple PE-1 eyebolts (they’re small and can fling off a set of tweezers). I don’t know if I missed where I was supposed to use the larger PE-2. There are a bunch of them. I’ll probably need to use the larger PE-2 on the mast. I ended up using the PE-2 eyebolts.
  11. Finally starting to do the rigging. I need to add eyelets to the main mast. Should I assume that the eyelets marked A that are attached to the sides of the upper rectangular mast cap would go in the middle of the mast cap? The plans show where they are located on the front and rear view but don’t show their position on the side view.
  12. I had to buy more basswood because I ran out because of the number I cut, sanded and shaped, and then didn't like, and started over.
  13. I used steelers and drop planks, not just because I needed them (I did) but also to use this half hull to get practice doing that. (When I screwed up and sanded too much, I also used it as an opportunity to try to remove planks and redo them.)
  14. Preparing the sail. Painted it after taping it with a slurry of glue and water to stiffen the fibers. Because with my Pram my smaller cutting mat left green stains on the sail (Model Expo is sending a new one), before I taped this one down, I put down some plastic (Saran) wrap taped around the mat. I hope that works better. The reef points are short lengths of line that will be glued to the sails. To stiffen them, I cut some lengths of line, painted them with the slurry, and hung them from my table, using some clips to weight them. We’ll see how they are tomorrow evening.
  15. The instructions for the blocks were a little confusing. Early in the instructions, it says “only two of these have a loop at one end and a hook at the other”. On first reading, I thought only two have hooks since the previous strops I had made (for the Pram and Smack) had loops. But then later in the next column it said “for the five blocks with only a hook …” so clearly, there are two blocks with a loop and a hook and five blocks with only a hook.
  16. Making the small chainplates for the backstays was a new challenge. The kit supplies a somewhat thick “strip” of brass that I first drilled two holes in (on the strip). I regularly heated (with a long lighter) the end I was working on, but it still took a while to drill through with my pin vise. I then drilled the top hole again with a wider drill bit. Then attached the strip in my vise to shape them half round at the top, and then cut to length in my mini miter box. I filed the cut. Then sanded with fine grit sandpaper to remove the oxidation from heating the metal. The kits came with pins (for the bottom smaller hole) but I’m using the pins that came with my Sherbourne (they’re thinner and the same color of brass).
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