palmerit
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Everything posted by palmerit
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Like those jigs. I'll need to copy them. Did you just use diluted white glue to stiffen the rope? Or some other concoction? And a very nice boat!
- 55 replies
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- Le Martegaou
- billing boats
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Bag 28 + sails and rigging. Finished. Looks pretty cool for a Lego model. We’ll see how much by comparison it takes to build the Occre Endurance I have packed away when I get to that.
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Bag 24: lifeboats Lego said they determined the scale of the ship based on the size they could design the lifeboats.
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Two baby steps. Added the front part of the keel - this just slid in without any filing. And glued just the narrow edge of the thin maple veneer at the stern, as recommended, to glue the rest into shape after it sets. Since the veneer is so thin, I used clothes pins to hold in place rather than the stiffer clamps. (I bought the clothes pins originally because it’s easy to turn them into customized clamps by drilling and gluing other wood to them.)
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Sorry. They were the ones included in the Ranger kit. I didn't order them separately. Thanks.
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Did you experiment with mixing the dyes together vs. doing a dip in one dye and doing a dip in another dye. I'm sure I can read a bunch on how to dye things. Just wondering if you had experimented or had seen videos or posts recommending dye mixing vs. sequential dyeing.
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Thanks so much for all the pointers and suggestions. @chris watton@James H - what are the sails made from? I might like to buy a little fabric to experiment before trying on the actual sails that came with the kit.
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Clamping the keel to the underside. Lots of clamps. I had to do a fair amount of filing of the notches to get the piece to fit.
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I think I did an ok job of faring the hull. @James H said it took him only 20-30min. I probably spent an hour on it. A good bit less time than my Sherbourne, but that was my first. Way less time than my NRG Half Hull, but that hull was way more complicated. I used finger, eye, and a spare strip of thin planking to check. Seems like a pretty easy hull, confirming what I read. We’ll see if the planking goes as easy. (Good to look at the faring the next day with a fresh eye. I saw that I needed to do some more at front and back near the keel. And I saw a few places where some of the frame was bulging a bit from the deck in the place where the additional supports are glued in place in the middle of the ship. I might need to fare a bit more where the counter goes in the stern but I'm waiting a bit since I need to install some of that in a step coming up soon.)
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Added the ply deck. Had a bit of a better time than I had with my Sherbourne in that none of the tabs snapped off. But the ply did pull up in a few places. I think I need to flex it a bit more. I’m just afraid of snapping it. Once the ply deck is in the whole structure is even stronger. Per the instruction, I glued underneath (with a diluted glue-water mixture) with a brush. I’ll leave it to dry overnight.
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One thing I was kind of unhappy about - especially in the posted photos - is that shine on the sails. The instructions called for painting the sails with a cream-consistency slurry of water and PVA (I used white bookbinders glue) to stiffen the sail. I don't know if there were other options, the glue slurry needed more water, or if I could have just left the sail unstiffened. The stiffened sail did make mounting it to the mast easier since it was a stiff piece. I didn't see the Vanguard Ranger, which comes with sails, having this step.
- 63 replies
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
- Model Shipways
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Finished the main support structures of the hull. Vanguards models are really engineered well. There’s really little concern about not having the hull support pieces at 90 degree angles because there’s so much redundancy in the way the pieces go together.
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Still no gluing.
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Fitted the bulkheads into the keel. There’s no gluing (yet). I had to file the notches on all of the bulkheads because they were quite tight. Pushing them all the way down without filing could have meant snapping a bulkhead or the keel.
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Next step was beveling the edges on some of the bulkheads (only a few). The beveling was pretty mirror and it maybe took 20 min to do them all.
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Speaking of parral beads. This model recommends them but does not supply them. I ended up ordering ordering a multipack for around $15 from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CD19WZZC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title It came with small containers with several sizes (from 6/0 to 15/0). I probably have enough "seed beads" to last me multiple lifetimes. I'm sure I could have found a bead store someplace in town. But it was just easier to buy a small pack and now I have them.
- 58 replies
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
- Model Shipways
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For my next model with rigging, I'm going to do some more research on knots. This kit suggested double half-hitches everywhere. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, if the line is just too thick, but the knots seemed large. And my understanding is that you'd really never even have knots on a ship. The knots serve their purpose on the model, but a bunch of huge knots just seems wrong. I also need to research - if I'm using knots - how to get them to be snug when I'm try to get them up against a whole (e.g., for the parral beads along the boom).
- 58 replies
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
- Model Shipways
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@DB789 had said in your build log "Decided on a colour for the sails, RIT dye tan (mixed quite strong) and after that the sails dipped for a minute or two in weak RIT dye scarlet mixture, the latter to give the sails a less bland brown colour." Can you unpack that a bit? How strong is strong (for the tan) and how weak is weak (for the scarlet)? I maybe dyed something 40 years ago. How long did you keep the sails in the tan (you specified of the scarlet a minute or two)? Did you use the Rit powder or liquid? Maybe I can start by dying an old t-shirt or something. Any idea what material the sails are made from? The part list in the instructions just say "Cloth". Cotton? Linen? If I'm going to experiment I'd like to find the same material.
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I cut out the 13 bulkheads and the keel. Next time I’ll need to bevel the bulkheads to the marked lines with my Dremel with a sanding wheel. Then it’ll be dry fitting the bulkheads to the keel.
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