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palmerit

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Everything posted by palmerit

  1. palmerit
    I think the supports for the rails at the bow were from a robot figurine (maybe a droid from a Star Wars kit). It’s been interesting to see ways its build is sometimes similar and sometimes very different from a wooden model ship. A lot less sanding.
  2. palmerit
    Bag 9:
  3. palmerit
    Bag 8:
  4. palmerit
    Bag 7:
  5. palmerit
    Bag 6:
  6. palmerit
    Bag 5:
  7. palmerit
    Gluing down the coaming and cabin sides. I’ll need to use a bit of filler in places.
  8. palmerit
    Spraypainting the yards.
  9. palmerit
    Shaping the coaming (around the seats) and shaping the cabin sides (they’re wet, not glued in yet). Needed to soak both in nearly-boiling water quite a while to get them to bend (and not fear that they’d snap) - the bend is pretty extreme. I’ll leave them to dry overnight. Getting the cabin sides to fit required a bit of carving to make sure there was a slot for the piece to fit in and it took a little bit of trimming (as in maybe 1/2mm in places) to get the slots to fit fully. There’s a little bit of the ends of the cabin sides that extend back to the coaming that I needed to trim (maybe a mm on each side). Better that it’s a tiny bit too long than too short obviously.
  10. palmerit
    The walnut dowels I ordered from agesofsail.com arrived and I made the main boom. I had to get a new 4mm because I hadn’t arranged the cutting of my 4mm dowels properly. While the dowels were fairly cheap, the shipping was costly, so I ordered a few sizes in case I need a replacement for another model someday.
  11. palmerit
    Making the sail.
  12. palmerit
    Might check here: https://www.modelerssawmill.com
  13. palmerit
    Go Bills.
  14. palmerit
    I had to buy additional sheets of thin basswood because of the number of times I did that when doing the half hull. There certainly is a satisfaction that comes with getting a plank to fit just right.
  15. palmerit
    I use 10A (not 10, which a rounded). I haven’t done a direct comparison with 11.
  16. palmerit
    The Swann-Morton work great. I’d suggest buying a 100-pack of blades and replace them often.
  17. palmerit
    I might want to educate myself on what a mill can actually do (and not do). Someone recommended the Home Machinists Handbook (which I think is based on using Sherline). If anyone has other recommendations on books, web sites, YouTube videos, please let me know. This is probably something I'm going to stew on for many months.
  18. palmerit
    That does look like a cool tool. It seems to be about the same price as a Sherline.
  19. palmerit
    Thanks. I'm in no rush for this purchase. It was prompted by being unhappy when trying to carefully drill by hand. Now I'm seeing what others are able to do with a mill, such as creating squared off or hexagonal sections of masts, as well as shaping parts. I know all of that could be done by hand, but playing with a new tool is part of the fun too. I need to better educate myself of what a mill can do (and cannot do) and what accessories can do. I'm not at the stage of skill for serious kit bashing. But I like playing with new toys.
  20. palmerit
    Those both (Grizzle and Little) look like impressive machines. I want to work in my house, not in my cellar (it has only 6ft clearance and is 80% dirt floor, which is pretty common for old houses in the US South) - maybe some day I'll build a he-shack in our back yard (my wife has wanted one for her quilting hobby). I want something I can set on the floor under my work table that I can lift up when I need to use it. The Proxxon is a mini mill and fairly light. I need to look at the (far more expensive) Sherline to check its weight, but it seems a lot heavier (maybe not something that can be easily lifted up and down - and since I work on just a (fairly sturdy) folding table, it might be too heavy for that.
  21. palmerit
    Beautiful. I'm likely going to display my models without a case like you. How to you deal with dust? Do you do something like occasionally spurting with light touches of compressed air? That's the only method I could think of.
  22. palmerit
    I guess the "Little" in "Little Machine" refers to the size of the shop not the size of the machines it sells.
  23. palmerit
    Like one of these? https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3990&category=2122081981 Anyone know how these compare to the Sherline I see recommended a lot? Seems like these are pretty heavy. The specs say 124 lbs. Is that right. Sherline is around 50lbs. Proxxon only 15lbs. (I know these aren't comparable.)
  24. palmerit
    I've had to drill a few holes in parts and masts in two of the Model Shipways "Shipwright Series" boats, the Pram and Smack. Maybe it's not common? None of them ended up where they should be (in the center of the piece, or two holes lines up). Could certainly have been user error (I experience lots of that). (I also had to drill holes in a scrap piece of PE for a rudder when building my Vanguard Sherboune after the piece was lost.) So maybe a mill is more useful (for the rare drilling, even if less efficient, but also for its milling capabilities)? Some responded as if they're doing a lot of repetitive drilling when I asked if a mill would be a better option (and said the mill was inefficient). Or maybe none is needed. (None ended up being the answer when I asked about a lathe.)
  25. palmerit
    I found a lot of people online recommend thinning Vallejo Air. Most say never to use water. I wasn’t clear on what to do: I use 50% Vallejo Air paint and 50% that flow improver / thinner / retarder mixture. I premix it and keep it in a dropper bottle. So if I add 20 drops of paint, I add 20 drops of the mixture. I keep my airbrush at around 25 psi (unless it’s primer, which I bump to 40 psi). I’m no expert, but this works for me and I rarely need to fully clean my airbrush.

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