michael101

Thank you all !!!  
i have installed the block fillers and now working on the fairing of the bow section ,
hop to update picture tomorrow...
Best regards ,
Michael.

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :
 


 
 
 

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :
 


 
 
 

I just finished reading through your log to date and indeed off to a good start. Planning and thinking ahead is always important. Take your time when you fair those frames as it will make a huge difference when you plank. Looking forward to seeing more as you progress. 

Looks like you are off to a great start. It's looking good. Fairing, One of the most important partsof the job. Good luck.

Hello michael
                   Here's a photo to help you with fairing at the bows . Head down get on with it!!!  DAVID

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :
 


 
 
 

Thank you E.J

A little update 
The building going a bit slowly because I'm working on the Ship Skeleton...
I come back late in the evening and do not have much power to work on the construction of the ship also the table saw making a lot of noise at the evening lol
most of my time build right now is in Friday that i have all a day free to build
 
here is some pictures of my progress , i installed blocks between the bulkheads also behind the barrel strip i glue some wood (1mm thick ) to push the strip outside in the slots ...
 
 

Thank you all !!!  
i have installed the block fillers and now working on the fairing of the bow section ,
hop to update picture tomorrow...
Best regards ,
Michael.

Thank you Scott  

Thank you all !!!  
i have installed the block fillers and now working on the fairing of the bow section ,
hop to update picture tomorrow...
Best regards ,
Michael.

Hi Micheal.
Having not seen the plans or drawings ...it's not easy to advise you.
Check and double check if you are not sure.
 
The bulkhead that your punch is pointing to looks as if it needs building up to the correct level.
Then fair it down... check that the bulkhead is at the correct height at the top first. I cannot tell by looking at any of your photos.

Also check if you need any build up on the sides.
 
All the best.
Antony.

Michael 
             You will have to fair off the bulkheads which you have not done yet to the lowest point possible. Then just get on with your first planking. When you reach the point of planking the faulty area you will see what you need to do, to make the planking as good as it need be. Then you are going to sand all the hull, and probably use filler. Next you have the second planking to fit, and finally the copper tiles to fit, and so the fault never existed. It's no good just looking at it. Just get on with the planking. DAVID

Michael,
You are getting some good advice on this build. As mentioned once you have done a bit of filling and planked twice and put the copper plates on you will not notice any problems. I build this great kit and had all but completed the upper gun deck when I had to give up for reasons I have explained elsewhere. I did the four butt system and fully rigged all the cannons. You will find you have to add a few bits to the cannons but they will look very good. Also you have to decide whether to patina the plates. I found that once the hull was coppered there was so much of it that your attention was drawn to the shiny bottom of the hull. I patanaed mine and it looked very good and your eyes where drawn to the hull as whole, especially once the black and yellow bands where painted on. Continue as you are, you are doing a great job and I will follow with interest.
Paul

now I'm about starting the shape of the ship i mean the fairing progress , i want to do that before installing the patterns of the gun ports for not getting any damage on the patterns ...
i have ask before about the shape of the bow forward supports (40 – 42)
and after fairing... i got it straight with the bulkheads 1 and 2 
now the only problem is the level between bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 i mean the bulkhead no.2 is a bit up ...
i saw in all of the victory build logs the same level ! but I'm not sure if i need to put some plank on that bulkhead no.2 or to sand bulkhead no.3
for getting nice and smooth curve down the bow
 
here is the picture : 

A little update 
The building going a bit slowly because I'm working on the Ship Skeleton...
I come back late in the evening and do not have much power to work on the construction of the ship also the table saw making a lot of noise at the evening lol
most of my time build right now is in Friday that i have all a day free to build
 
here is some pictures of my progress , i installed blocks between the bulkheads also behind the barrel strip i glue some wood (1mm thick ) to push the strip outside in the slots ...
 
 

Thank you David ! 
In that picture there is the same level..
its mean that the keelson line is not the border line of the plank ? I mean when i will install the plank i will still see the whait aria okf the keel in the corner of the bow ... 

Hello friends
tomorrow i wont to work on the bow stage but i saw the the line of the second bulkhead that is going up of the keelson line also something looks a bit weird  with the line of the 
bow forward supports (40 – 42) here is a picture that i took ( dry fit )
please advice
btw the second bulkhead are good fit ! The middle gun deck is 45mm from the bottom as the plans !
 
best regards ,
Michael.
 

Thank you David  

Thank you David for the comment 
i asked you on the p.m about the dummy barrel strip (that has a 5mm thick )
how did you bend them ?
I was thinking of putting them in water but not sure if its a good idea because they will be fatter after that proses ..
and I'm not sure if they will go in the bulkheads holes nicely and smooth ...
so what did you do?

Hello Reach 
good to see you in my build log
thank you for your comment
and yes i will do that 4 plank shift on the lower deck , My observation about our hobby its to take the time and to work slowly and do my best on any stage ,
to be honest if i wanted to have that ship at home i could fined it on eBay ready to put it in the show box  but for me to have that ship in the show box its only a bonus 
and for sure you agree with me, my proof is your build log and you doing a best job ! 
 
 

Hello friends
i asked before in other post about the middle gun deck plank .. and i got some answers ,
but i just find in the constructions manuals the exact length and the distance between the beginning of plank one to the beginning of plank 2 I'm talking about four butt shift system
my question is if the middle gun deck has the same length ..?
here is the text from the manual about the upper gun deck :
Note: If you wish to accurately represent the plank length and four butt shift system used on Victory, each plank should be either cut to a length of 85mm (approximately 20ft) or the planks can be laid full length and scored with a craft knife every 85mm, this latter method often looks the most convincing at this scale. The four butt shift system simply implies that the end of each neighbouring plank is offset by 1/5 of twice the length of the planks (34mm) such that the end of every fifth plank athwartships only is aligned (i.e. separated by a four plank shift). 

a little update
today i glued the bulkheads in positions 
 i had to fix bulkhead no. 13 , and to put all of the bulkhead in position 
my advice : never trust the laser cut !!! check in the plans what is the highest of the water line or in our case the middle gun deck..
and hold the keel in 90 degrees to some board , and start measuring every bulkhead than double check all the walls/decks act.
For more accuracy i cut 2 pieces of 11 mm (the same size as the keelson that installed in the front ) and i have put on that to pieces of plywood and did the same thing in the bow i have put 2 pieces of plywood but without the extra pieces of the 11mm becouse there is a keelson , than i had enough space to put the 90 degrees ruler to check the bulkheads 
and because of that model its huge, i had to put all the bulkheads in the right place then i glue them from out side by timbers 
the deck is in , but without glue (not had time to glue that today )
my next stage before putting the patterns of the gun ports its to make it ready for fairing the hull proses 
by putting columns between the bulkheads i think to use 17mm plywood (that what i have in stock lol) but becoase the bulkheads are very big
i will make the wide of the columns 5cm wide by 17mm and to glue them in a diagonal position .. but will see  
 
Cheers 
Michael.
 

Thank you David
i did the sanding in the firs stage 
by the way before sanding i made an external support for the corner of the keel 
in the manual they say that the secunde keelson will be install after doing the second plank ... 
its mean that aria of sanding will be without support because the L supports that i made on the construction board not going to support that aria 
they will touch the keel above the sanding aria , and the corner of the keel can get curve until you will finish plank the first plank
so first of all i cute some plywood same thick as the keel and same hight as the first keelson (11mm)
and drilled exactly in the middel of that plywood to the bottom of the keel then i connect the external plywood by brass pin 
and now the L support are holding the sanding aria exactly in the middle of the L supports
here some pictures :
and for the pillars for sure i will follow your advice ! 
Regards ,
Michael.